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Messages - neuroanatomist

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6136
Nikon 5200 blow 5d of the road, if you have enough good lens on the Nikon

Technically true in terms of sensor performance.  Of course, comparing a camera from last year to a camera from 8 years ago isn't exactly an apples-to-apples comparison. 

6137
Lenses / Re: What nd filter density (combinations) do you use?
« on: January 24, 2013, 01:44:33 PM »
Brilliant, a thread with a particular issue I am having... I need a square filter ND, 6 stops, to stack together with the Big Stopper to get 16 stops... Neuro any idea? Lee make 3 stop NDs, but I guess stacking a 10 stop Big Stopper and two 3 stop NDs would be overkill in terms of vignetting. Hitech, Cokin or BW make a 6 stop 100 mm square filter anyone knows?


Answered in your other thread, two options there...

6138
Software & Accessories / Re: Square 100 x 100 mm ND filters
« on: January 24, 2013, 01:44:00 PM »
Schneider Optics (B+W's parent company) makes a 100x100mm ND1.8 (6 stops), in their MPTV line (motion picture/television) - B&H link.  Note that they're Schott glass filters (they're the only ones that I know of who make glass square/rectangular ND/gradND, vs. resin.  The issue is see is that they're twice as thick as the Lee resin filters.  I know the Lee holder can take them with an appropriate adapter, but I don't know if you can use a 2mm Lee and a 4mm Schneider in the same holder at the same time.

Just found a HiTech 4x4" resin ND1.8 that will fit a Lee holder - B&H Link.

Hope that helps...

6139
Lenses / Re: What nd filter density (combinations) do you use?
« on: January 24, 2013, 12:25:08 PM »
As for the filter system, I can see the hassle with the screw-on version, so I'll have to calculate the cost of  Lee/Cokin with polarizer & nd if getting the adapters and holders from eBay/China - but that's probably beyond the scope of this thread.

I've considered the Lee system, am still considering it, in fact.  But the main reason for that is to use graduated ND filters, where a screw-in filter is not optimal (no flexibility on where the gradation falls).  I like the screw-in solid NDs for portability - easy to throw into a side pocket of a bag.

And I'll want to use it on the 17-40L on ff sooner or later - and even for "normal" sized filters I've read vignetting can occur, that's why b+w sells the slim version. But since I'll have to use a step-up adapter 77->82 for the 17-40L I might get vignetting anyway, even with a slim version?

Not sure about the 17-40 and vignetting.  If you use a step-up to 82mm, vignetting is less likely.  But it's really lens-dependent.  For example, the 16-35 II on FF is very susceptible to increased vignetting with filters, but the 10-22mm on APS-C (equivalent focal length to image circle comparison) can take a couple of stacked filters with no hit on vignetting.

6140
You need one Mini TT1 on the body you're using.  If you use two bodies during a shoot, it may make sense to have a second Mini TT1.  A single Mini TT1 transmitter can control a whole bunch of receivers/tranceivers.  I use an on-camera Mini TT1 to control a pair of Flex TT5s and a PowerMC2 for an Einstein monolight (and it's the ability to trigger that monolight that's holding me back from Canon's RT system). 

The Flex TT5 can be either a receiver or a transmitter, so you could have a Mini on one camera and a Flex on the other camera with one flash, or a Mini on one camera and a Flex on each of two flashes.

The Mini/Flex system allows E-TTL automatic flash metering, the Plus III system does not.

6141
Lenses / Re: What nd filter density (combinations) do you use?
« on: January 24, 2013, 08:57:36 AM »
Good points above.  The 'Maltese cross' artifact with variable ND's gets worse the darker you go and the wider the AoV (it's caused by uneven polarization, like you see with a CPL on a UWA lens).  Since one of my main uses for a 10-stop ND is to blur people out of city scenes, often shot with the TS-E 24 or 16-35, I've avoided a variable ND.

Although sometimes it's bright enough to use Live View with exposure simulation, normally you'd set composition and focus, meter, then screw on the ND, adjust exposure, and shoot.  A stable ballhead is a must (a little camera shake won't hurt a 30 s exposure, but you don't want to shift your composition. Probably not applicable, but a rotating front element won't work.

6142
Lenses / Re: Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 08:14:25 AM »
Eagles are big, and if you're close in the blind you may find that the DoF at 400mm f/2.8 or 560mm f/4 is actually too shallow.  There's no issue with diffraction on the 1D X up to f/11, I'd try the f/5.6 - f/8 range.

6143
Lenses / Re: 200mm F2 IS OR 135mm F2
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:55:37 AM »
If you can afford it and have room to use it (outdoors or a large indoor space), get the 200/2!

6144
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1D X Firmware Specifcations
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:51:51 AM »
Ahhh, now I see the issue.  Yes, that's true - I suppose it's a result of the transmissive LCD.  The older cameras you mention have the AF points etched onto the focus screen - they're always 'on' and because of the etching, when illuminated, the light hits them in such a way that pretty much only the selected AF point lights up.  With the transmissive LCD, when it's illuminated the selected AF point(s) are 'lit' but to a lesser extent the whole VF glows red. That is a bit distracting, sort of like wearing rose-colored glasses or suffering from a bad hangover.  ;)  That glow also mucks with the metering, which is why it turns off after AF lock, and why the AI Servo 'fix' is the illumination blinking on/off rather than steady.

Personally, while the transmissive LCD has some drawbacks, I think those are outweighed by the benefits of AF point display flexibility, on-demand grid display, etc.

6145
Lenses / Re: What nd filter density (combinations) do you use?
« on: January 24, 2013, 06:49:26 AM »
1.  I have 3-stop and 10-stop filters.  If I had to choose just one for nature/architecture it would be the 10-stop.  The 3-stop is great for shooting fast primes wide open for outdoor portraits, and it does 'ok' for moving water if you stop down a bit.  But for architecture shots where you want to blur out people, 10-stops is what you want - 6-stops likely would not be enough to get you to the 30-60 s exposure time. In fact, I didn't bother with an 82mm 3-stop (I have 72mm and 77mm), I just have a 10-stop in 82mm (also in 77mm).

2.  The only real-world drawback might be increased optical or even mechanical vignetting, depending on the lens.  For example, with the 16-35L II, stacking an F-Pro ND and a Slim CPL will add 2-stops of optical vignetting at 16mm f/5.6, and cause mechanical vignetting at 16mm f/2.8.  OTOH, I often stack my 82mm Slim K√§semann CPL on my 82mm 10-stop ND on a TS-E 24L II, no problems there.

3.  My 10-stop NDs are uncoated.  If there has been MRC versions available when I bought them, I'd likely have done so (in fact, when I bought my 82mm 10-stop, the only one even available as a screw-in was from Schneider Optics, B+W's parent company). But, it hasn't been an issue.  The coating makes cleaning easier, but you're not going to have to clean an ND too often.  The main benefit of a multicoated filter is to increase transmission by reducing reflection (an uncoated UV/clear filter will cost you 8-10% of the light, a multicoated one loses <1%).  But the whole point of an ND filter is to lose light...  Yes, in theory there may be some extra flare (due to reflections between the front element and the back of the filter), but the coatings on the front element minimize that, and I haven't found it to be a real-world problem.

Hope that helps...

6146
PW and Canon RT can't trigger each other.  Different freqs, different protocols.

You'd need the 600EX-RT on a Flex TT5 to trigger it. Or, go all Canon with an ST-E3-RT or a second 600 on the camera to trigger the 600 (but the 580 can't be radio triggered without a 3rd party trigger, or at all by the ST-E3).

6147
Software & Accessories / Re: Rucksack Camera Bags
« on: January 23, 2013, 10:57:56 PM »
I like the Lowepro Flipside series (I have the 300 and 400 AW) - the opening is against your back, quite secure.

Having said that, I'm considering a Fastpack for an upcoming trip where I plan to bring my 17" MBP.  Rather than the older type, I'd get a Fastpack DSLR Video 250 or 350.  You can ignore the 'video' part. The new series offers three improvements, IMO - a tripod attachment, a rain cover, and the laptop section loads from the top vs. the side.

I'm debating between the 250 and the 350.  It's always hard to judge online - I recommend taking your gear into a shop if possible.  For example, the Flipside 300 isn't supposed to hold a gripped body, but it does. The Fastpack DSLR Video 250 states 'pro dSLR (without grip) and 24-70' but based on the stated depth a gripped body will fit - I just need to know if an attached 28-300L will fit, despite what the specs say, and if my 17" MBP will fit in the 'holds a 15" notebook' pocket (measurements say yes, reality may be different). 

6148
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1D X Firmware Specifcations
« on: January 23, 2013, 06:27:17 PM »
 :-[

6149
From your other thread:

Sorry, but you're worrying over nothing. Put the filter on the lens, the hood will fit just fine.

FWIW, for both the XS-Pro and F-Pro mounts, in all the sizes I have (58mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, and 82mm), the outer diameter of the filter is the same as the outer diameter of the same-sized lens cap. If the hood fits over the lens cap (it always does), it fits over the filter.

6150
Sorry, but you're worrying over nothing. Put the filter on the lens, the hood will fit just fine.

FWIW, for both the XS-Pro and F-Pro mounts, in all the sizes I have (58mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm, and 82mm), the outer diameter of the filter is the same as the outer diameter of the same-sized lens cap. If the hood fits over the lens cap (it always does), it fits over the filter.

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