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Messages - neuroanatomist

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Software & Accessories / Re: TVC-24L similar
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:24:14 AM »
A center column always adds instability.  I'm sure the RRS one is sturdy, and maybe ok for a light load, but not with something moderately heavy. 

Leveling base?  Are you planning on using a pano head or gimbal head?  If so, the leveling base is great.  If you're using a ballhead, it's not really necessary, IMO.  The handle on the bottom is how you loosen the base to adjust the tilt, then lock it back down.  As for the hook, the tripod ships with a simple platform installed, and that platform has a hook.  You remove the platform to install the leveling base, and the hook can be unscrewed.  I believe the leveling base has a little cap on the bottom of the handle that can be popped off, and the hook screwed on instead (I actually got the longer handle version for more leverage when leveling with the 600 II on the gimbal, and I got the one with the hook preinstalled).  I'd call RRS and ask, but I suspect you don't need to buy the extra hook.  (Of course, they sell them - people lose things!  They also sell the rubber ball feet even though they come with the tripod.)

Ragarding the plates for camera and lens, not sure why that puts you off.  They aren't required - you can get a ballhead with just a platform, it's cheaper and has a 1/4"-20 stud that you can simply screw your camera body or lens foot onto.  But do you really want to do that every time?  You're paying for the convenience of a quick release system.  The nice thing is that RRS uses Arca-Swiss type plates, and most of those systems are interchangeable (not Novoflex and a few others, there are compatibility charts out there).  What that means is you can use a mix of plates and clamps from several vendors.  Personally, I have both Wimberley and RRS plates, and I have Wimberley, Kirk, and RRS clamps, and they all work great together.

As for cost of the plates, the RRS plate for a 70-200/2.8 is $55, and the Wimberley P-20 (which is what I have on my 70-200/2.8L IS II) is only $3 cheaper.  The RRS plate has a 1/4"-20 threaded hole, should you want to attach something else (monopod without a clamp, for example), whereas the Wimberley plate does not (I ordered the Wimberley mainly because B&H sells them, so I get them overnight with UPS ground, whereas RRS takes several days to get to me).  The RRS camera plates are also not significantly more expensive than something like a Wimberley P-5 (again, <$10 more); the difference there is the Wimberley is a universal plate that mounts on any camera, while the RRS plates are specific for a particular camera (and there are different ones for gripped vs. non-gripped).  The advantage to the RRS plates is that they have a custom lip that wraps around the edge of the camera, meaning no chance the plate will twist when in use (and that can happen with the Wimberley).  L-brackets are obviously more expensive, but again, you're paying for convenience - being able to balance a load upright for a portrait shot, vs. using the drop notch, being able to take portrait-oriented panos, etc. 

I guess the bottom line is that you pay for quality and convenience, and RRS delivers. 

Canon General / Re: Portraits
« on: November 26, 2012, 10:00:34 PM »
Phase 1: Take good pictures.
Phase 3: Profit.

Phase 2 involves boring stuff like a business plan, advertising, building a clientele, etc.  I really recommend skipping that, and going straight from Phase 1 to Phase 3, like our good friends the underpants gnomes.


EOS Bodies / Re: First Round of EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: November 26, 2012, 08:52:08 PM »


This spec is enough to tell that the rumor is fake.

The Digic 5+ processor is a dual-core (quad-core?) Digic.
So, no need to put two Digic 5s in a camera when a single Digic 5+ will do.

This is [CR0].

The 1D X has dual Digic 5+, so presumably that's needed for 18 MP at 14 fps.  Guess what?  18.1 MP x 14 fps = 253.4 MP/s, and that value divided by the rumored 24.2 MP equals 10.5 fps, very close to the rumored 10.2 fps (and assuming no dedicated Digic 4 for metering, the job would be done by the Digic 5+'s, dropping the max throughput slightly). The 7D has dual Digic 4 (18 MP x 8 fps), and so does the 1DIV (16 MP x 10 fps).

Not saying I believe the rumor, but it's pretty certain that dual Digic 5+ would be needed to drive a data throughput (MP-fps combo) that's basically the same as the 1D X.

Lenses / Re: 50mm 1.2
« on: November 26, 2012, 08:14:25 PM »
If you're going to shoot between f/1.2 and f/2, or need weather sealing, or need amazing bokeh, then yes.

Software & Accessories / Re: TVC-24L similar
« on: November 26, 2012, 06:51:37 PM »
When I was looking at tripods for a new supertele, I went with the RRS TVC-33, but there was a comparable Gitzo model that was a bit cheaper.  Still, the RRS legs are excellent!

EOS Bodies / Re: First Round of EOS 7D Mark II Specs [CR1]
« on: November 26, 2012, 06:02:41 PM »
New Ergonomic Design

Why is everyone assuming this means smaller?  I find the design of a 1-series body to be much more ergonomic.  :)

Lenses / Re: whats up with my focus?
« on: November 26, 2012, 12:57:37 PM »
those little boxes are some type of permanent recording memory, tiny unusable photos. one time use, can you believe it?

Weird.  Just...weird.  Thanks for clarifying!

As for AFMA, here's a place to start:  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

Currently, I just use Reikan FoCal software.

Animal Kingdom / Re: Bird ID - Help Please!!!
« on: November 26, 2012, 12:55:39 PM »
Thanks for the correction(s)!

Animal Kingdom / Re: Bird ID - Help Please!!!
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:31:56 AM »
He looks like the guy below, who is definitely a Semipalmated Sandpiper (I snapped this on an outing with a guide from Mass Audubon, so I'm not relying on my own ID  ;) ).   Apologies for the bad IQ, this is a 100% crop from too far away, and it was raining at the time.

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Quick help needed: Polarization filter
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:26:54 AM »
Yes, you rotate it until you get the effect you desire.  The angle of the sun matters, and best resutls are at 90° to the sun.  If you're moving the camera around for the shot, and you change the angle relative to the sunlight, you'll change the polarization, too - probably with undesirable results (exposure changes, etc.).

EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Quick help needed: Manual White Balance
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:24:50 AM »
See p.138 in your manual.  Take the pic, assign it to custom WB in Shooting Menu 2, then select Custom WB, symbol is:

Lenses / Re: whats up with my focus?
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:19:53 AM »
Have you done autofocus microadjustment for those lenses?

What are all those little boxes in the second image, with things like Tmax and Ektar on them?   :P

Animal Kingdom / Re: Bird ID - Help Please!!!
« on: November 26, 2012, 11:16:47 AM »
Looks like a Semipalmated Sandpiper, but I'm no expert.

One challenge is that many of the pictures you'll see as species examples online are breeding plumage, but at this time of year they have non-breeding plumage and can look different. 

Software & Accessories / Re: What's your favorite Lightstand?
« on: November 26, 2012, 10:57:22 AM »
I've got several of the Manfrotto air-cushioned (10xxBAC) stands (two 7', two 8', and one 12'), all are excellent.  The 8' ones have a 2' diamater base, which is nice for small rooms.  Any of them will hold a PCB Einstein 640 monolight, although I generally use the 8' or 12' if using a large modifier (a 48"/120cm octabox, for example) because the 3' diameter base provides better balance.

Lenses / Re: Focal Distance: furthest possible maintaining blurred BG
« on: November 26, 2012, 10:47:03 AM »
Take the period out of the url and fire again.

Apologies.  You can thank my iPhone's automatic punctuation...

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