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Messages - neuroanatomist

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The lens I'm currently coveting is the EF 300mm f/2.8L IS II.  I may get distracted by purchasing the EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS II along the way...

None. (Although a Canon EF-S 30mm f/1.8 L USM would be nice, provided it is sans IS.)

According to a recent poll, the 14-24L is the most coveted lens here on CR

Not that it matters much, but I got the sense that the OP was interested in lenses that actually exist. 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX and 5D3 RAW files
« on: May 23, 2013, 11:44:37 AM »
So why even discuss the low ISO capability, especially if all the independent tests indicate that higher ISO is where the 1DX really shines, and was obviously meant to be used?

Why?  Because that's Mikael/ankorwatt's hobby horse that he likes to ride into every thread that he visits.   ::)

But he was absolutely correct in stating,

no , they have not the same sensor, there are different regarding CFA  ,  FWC , QE and read out noise

Hey, you use 'F' as an abbreviation your way, I'll use it mine, ok?   ;D 

Lenses / Re: Can the 70-200 2.8L II IS replace my 100L and 135L?
« on: May 23, 2013, 11:25:54 AM »
Take a look at these two images I have copied from the relevant lens image threads on this site. I would say the swing bokeh is distracting and far from smooth, on the other hand the head shot has beautiful bokeh, very smooth and not distracting at all. I prefer the background rendering of the head shot.

 Here are the links, swing , head shot

The thing is, bokeh is not determined solely by the lens.  The distance between subject and background, and what that background comprises, are critical factors. 

For example, in the swing shot you reposted:

...the background was close and complex (sun-dappled foliage), whereas for the head shot, the background was simpler and more distant.  I wonder what the bokeh would have looked like in a shot similar to the swing shot, but taken from a different angle with a more distant and somewhat less complex background?  Actually, I don't have to wonder - turns out I have a just such a shot from that same afternoon.  :)  The background rendering is much smoother. 

I'd love to help, but I have neither a 5DIII nor a 24L II.   8)

The thing that's not working correctly is the user - that's you, bub. Your 5DIII is set to Auto, your T3i is set to a 1/200 - 1/60 s limit.  You must have used some of those fingers you mention to change that setting on your T3i long ago, and forgotten.
I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe 1/200 - 1/60 was the default on my T3i, so there is a chance the OP never touched it.

According to p.252 of TFM, which I just re-R'd (  ;) ), the default setting for the T3i is also Auto (1/200 - 30 s).

Lenses / Re: Do you wish your 70-200L were black?
« on: May 23, 2013, 10:52:40 AM »
Near-white concrete will also feel far hotter than grass. Try it - also guaranteed. The transfer of heat is far more complicated than just colour.

But we are talking about two similar built lenses, light concrete might be hotter than grass, but it is a lot cooler than black concrete or tarmac in the same sun.


Bottom line, a black-painted metal object in the sun will reach a higher equilibrium temperature than a similar object painted white.  Did you try my hood of the car suggestion?  Maybe it's been too cloudy lately...  You could try reading this, instead:

Is it possible to stack up two extenders 1.4x Mk2 + 2x Mk2 on a canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS lens with Canon 5d Mark iii ?
With the recent firmware update i reckon its possible to autofocus with the center point @ f8.

not the genuine canons

As stated above, the 'genuine Canon' TC's the OP lists can be stacked - they are the MkII versions.  The 2xIII has two additional elements compared to the 2xII, and there's not enough space at the back of the rear element to accept the protrusion of the 1.4x TC. 

Note that you can stack a 1.4xIII and a 2xII - the limitation is for the 2xIII.

EOS Bodies / Re: EOS 70D & EOS 7D Mark II
« on: May 23, 2013, 10:38:39 AM »
Come on, does a built in flash really add much weight and bulk?

While it doesn't really add 'bulk' the protrusion of a popup flash is problematic when using a TS-E 17L or 24L II.  Canon does provide an alternate, smaller shift knob to use with bodies that have a popup flash, but it's inconvenient (the little knob is pretty hard to access and turn when it's under the flash). 

So for me, given the 'bad' light from a weak flash so close to the lens axis, and the inconvenience of using a TS lens with the bulge of the on-board flash, I'm quite happy my camera doesn't have one.

Spot the odd one out:

Canon 5D3
Canon 180 L macro
Nissin ringflash

Yeah, that threw me at first, too.  But the Canon 430 and 580 he tried had the same 'problem' which meant user error was most likely. Sorry for blaming the 3rd party flash initially!

Of course, it's likely moot since the OP seems much happier blaming his equipment for his failure to fully understand how it works...but maybe he'll revisit this thread and learn something...

Maybe you don't understand how to shoot flash controlling DOF. I do and have.

Sure, none of us understand that.   :P

But your misunderstanding is the cause of your current (non) issue.

If it is user error, then tell me why the T3i responds correctly? or is the T3i broken and the Mark III working correctly.

The thing that's not working correctly is the user - that's you, bub. Your 5DIII is set to Auto, your T3i is set to a 1/200 - 1/60 s limit.  You must have used some of those fingers you mention to change that setting on your T3i long ago, and forgotten.  Do let us know when Canon gets back to you, and tells you to send your 'broken' 5DIII in for service.   ::)

Lenses / Re: Do you wish your 70-200L were black?
« on: May 22, 2013, 10:46:47 PM »
Nikon uses Fluorite in their high end Microscopes, so they are familiar with it.

As does Zeiss in many of the objectives on my scopes.  The crystals are a little smaller, though.  ;)

You can physically stack them (but not the MkIIIs).  I'm not even sure both will report - IIRC, you'll see f/5.6.  But the IQ will be worse than just cropping...

Lenses / Re: Do you wish your 70-200L were black?
« on: May 22, 2013, 10:01:17 PM »
Nikon does not use Fluorite in their lenses.  That is why they are longer and often have more CA's than Canon lenses, and often do not focus as closely.  Fluorite allows better correction of CA's which allows a shorter lens.
Maybe black paint is more expensive??  That Nikon 800mm sells for $18,000 ;)

Actually, Nikon's new 800/5.6 does use fluorite elements - two of them.  This, despite previous Nikon marketing blurbs that fluorite was used long ago, but they made ED glass so they could avoid using temperature-sensitive, fragile lens elements (e.g., this link).

I wonder how the fluorite will do in a black barrel?  If it has thermal issues, Nikon will be blasted. If not, it supports the idea that Canon's white paint is purely a marketing ploy (already supported by the white lenses with no fluorite, like the 300/4L IS).  Either way, I see egg on the face of one or maybe both...

Remember, the camera switches to fill mode when you mount a flash and set it to AV, so exposure times will look pretty weird if you don't use it right.
For Macro, use manual if you want to control things.

Freudian slip on my part - you wrote use manual, and I read use THE manual (aka RTFM). 

I just re-read the OP's post more carefully (can I blame 3 hrs of intereupted sleep prior to getting up at 4a for a day trip from Boston to New Jersey? Home now...).  You're obviously correct, as was my embedded statement about user error.  In Av mode with the flash sync in Av mode setting on Auto (which is the default), the camera will expose for ambient background and then light the subject with the E-TTL flash.

So it's a wetware problem, I think... 

EDIT: re-reading my re-read, maybe I wasn't as tired as I thought - the first line says 'no aperture selection' implying that turning the main dial does not change the aperture setting. If that's the case, there is something wrong.  But it is more likely the OP's description of the problem isn't fully accurate, and that aperture is changing but so is shutter speed for a correct ambient exposure.

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