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Messages - neuroanatomist

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7306
Well for one it keeps telling me it is not a licensed serial number and shows the wrong serial number even though I'm using the current beta version and I own a Pro copy. It locks up, freezes and then there's the manual only issue.

Did you confirm the camera serial number in Reikan's license portal?  What did their support say?

7307
Don't get me started. I can't do squat with my copy of Focal Pro (Mac household only) and my 5D3. Waiting for Canon to update the SDK? Is that what's going on?

Yes, the issue is the Canon SDK.  But what else isn't working?  AFAIK, other than needing to manually change the AFMA (which you also need to do with the Windows version of FoCal), the other tests all work.

7308
Lenses / Re: which one
« on: January 09, 2013, 07:57:56 AM »
still not sure, but I really like the 2.8 option so I reckon that am leaning towards the 16-35

I do some handheld night walkaround shooting, and the f/2.8 of the 16-35 II does come in handy.

7309
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: The AF Setting Guide Book for 5DM3 and 1DX
« on: January 09, 2013, 07:11:02 AM »
How does one switch both from Single Point AF to 61 Automatic Selection AF with one button click?

you prgram the DOF button to toggle between 1 shot and servo its awesome
also I enable the 8 assist point focus mode this greatly helps with servo keeper rate

Actually, no - that doesn't do what ET wants.  The DOF button toggle (I use the M.Fn2 button on the 1D X for that) switches the AF mode from One Shot to AI Servo but does not switch from single point selection to 61-point auto selection.  The AF system will 'track across the frame' only if you're in 61-pt auto selection, but while that allows you to select a starting point if you're in AI Servo, if you're in One Shot the camera does the point selection.  ET is looking for a way to switch from (One Shot + single AF point selection) to (AI Servo + 61-point auto selection) with a single button press.

ET, my solution to that issue is to have C2 as (One Shot + single AF point selection) and C3 as (AI Servo + 61-point auto selection) but otherwise with very similar settings (both Av mode, etc., although I have the min shutter set higher in C3).  On the 1D X, I have the M.Fn button assigned to switch modes, so it's a one-button press to go into servo + 61-pt, and pressing that same button twice to go back to one-shot + manual select (on the 5DIII, it's a dial turn instead of a button press).

7310
...there are not many Mac users happy install something as bloated as this on their Mac.

Who, besides you, constitutes 'not many'.  I cared a lot when the Mac beta version would not properly connect to my 1D X.  I cared that their server was down last weekend and I couldn't download a new Mac beta to replace the one giving me a 'version expired' message and not launching. But the need for the Mono framework? That's what you're going to complain about?  Personally, I couldn't care less.

7311
Software & Accessories / Re: Black Rapid and dropped camera?
« on: January 08, 2013, 10:56:15 PM »
More convenient yes, MORE secure, no.  I agree with C. Burch, you are adding another potential failure point, period.

So, a single threaded attachment that is frequently unscrewed and rescrewed and subjected to torsional stress during use is going to be more stable than a threaded attachment with threadlocking applied plus a clamping screw that's not subjected to unintentional torsional stress?  Sorry, no.  Yes, in theory, two connection points vs. one means two possible failure points rather than one.  If you were doing a 350' free rappel (I've done one), would you prefer to hang from a single loosely tied knot, or a pair of 8,000-lb-rated carabiners connected in series?  The latter has two possible failure points vs. just one - it must be less safe, right?

I can tell you that I spent over a year with the single lug connection, first as a FastenR-2 then FastenR-3 connected to a tripod socket, then with a FastenR-T1 connected through a Manfrotto RC2 plate.  I would frequently find the FastenR slightly loose - probably at least once per week.  It never loosened sufficiently for the camera to fall - but that's because I quickly got in the habit of checking the tightness of the lug several times a day.  In over a year with the FastenR-3 Loctite'd to a Kirk clamp attached to a body or lens plate, I have never had anything come even slightly loose.  I know which sounds more failure-prone to me, and I'm not a fan of letting untested theory outweigh empirical fact.

Sorry, I forgot that I was replying to the person that knows everything about everything.

Never claimed that.  But I do claim direct, personal, empirical experience with the products I discussed - as I stated, over a year with each, a few hundred cumulative hours per year.  On what experience are you basing your statement that the lug+clamp setup is less secure than just the lug?  Please share...

7312
Site Information / Re: Signatures
« on: January 08, 2013, 05:26:42 PM »
How about now?

7313
Really, two different lenses.   ;)

I have both, I use the 85L II much more, but the TS-E 24L II offers creative possibilities that are just not available with typical lenses.

7314
Software & Accessories / Re: AFMA advice sought
« on: January 08, 2013, 02:20:06 PM »
Here's my DIY schematic

I take it since the pic is "AFMA_Image4.jpg" there are others - or is the a good "do it yourself" site on this? I haven't read up on this since my 60d hasn't got afma (thanks, Canon!) but now that I'll get a ff I'd like a good solution for af adjustment w/o spending additional money.

From here:  http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

Written before FoCal was available, I use FoCal now...

7315
Site Information / Re: Signatures
« on: January 08, 2013, 12:53:38 PM »
Profile tab > Forum Profile doesn't work?

7317
Lenses / Re: 300 f2.8 Ser 1 vs. Ser 2?
« on: January 08, 2013, 12:30:19 PM »
There have been quite a few supertele scams on CL, where an authentic looking photo is used.  But if legit, it's an amazing deal.  If a local meet in a safe location can be arranged, go for it!!  You imply that you haven't contacted the seller.  Don't be too surpirsed if the response mentions things like a secure escrow account for payment, etc., i.e. the hallmarks of a scam.

7318
Software & Accessories / Re: AFMA advice sought
« on: January 08, 2013, 11:43:53 AM »
FWIW, I got good results with FoCal with 600mm (at 30 m and 15 m) and 840mm (600+1.4x, at 42 m and 21 m)...also outdoors, but I had a very stable RRS tripod/gimbal and I added some lighting (with a long extension cord!) to the sunlight for ~15 EV as reported by FoCal, meaning high shutter speeds >1/1000 s even at f/5.6.  I haven't done the 600 + 2x combo yet (seems quite sharp at AFMA = 0, and the longest sight line on my property is ~50 m - I need to find a vacant football field, and maybe a helper and a set of walkie-talkies for target alignment  ;) ).

I wasn't joking.

You've built yourself an economical LensAlign tool.   ;D

Here's my DIY schematic:

7319
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II travel bag for Alaska
« on: January 08, 2013, 09:34:44 AM »
I bought a $50 American Tourister bag at Walmart with wheels. The size for legal carry on.  Lined it with foam and put the 500 ll and 300 ll in it with clothes wraped around them. Never one problem on my flights....Actually I was amazed at the quality of the cheap travel bags.

I'd probably be ok with that on intercontinental flights (big planes, lots of overhead space), and on domestic airlines where I get early boarding because of preferred status.  But on many US flights, those who board late are often forced to gate-check their bags when the overheads fill up.  That's why I generally fly with my gear in a Storm im2500 hard case (I pack the gear in a Lowepro Flipside 300 or 400 AW inside the hard case).

7320
Lenses / Re: which one
« on: January 08, 2013, 08:00:19 AM »
If you will shoot mainly at narrow apertures, get the 17 – 40. It's less expensive, similar in IQ at narrow apertures, and takes the same size filters as your 24 – 105.  If you need to shoot handheld in low light, and thus wide open, the 16 – 35 is a better choice.

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