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With EOS remote on a laptop you can transfer RAW files, and you can also specify some really useful things such as:
Shoot RAW+Save onto SD Card, but transfer JPEG to specified folder
Then from the specified folder import into lightroom via auto import
Here's a nice write-up on that setup: http://www.p4pictures.com/2013/01/eos-6d-wifi-tethered-shooting-to-lightroom/
Note that it will take 20+ seconds to transfer each RAW file, so I find the option to shoot RAW+JPEG fine (which stores both on the SD) and only transmit JPEG over wireless to the laptop works best. Just a second or two delay and they show up. Good enough for real-time client preview.
I do agree. More people should be more like Mr Surapon. This forum would be even better than it alreadys is and surely, we would be the friendliest and most creative bunch of photographers, amateurs and pros.I think everyone here on CR will agree that surapon is one of our favorite members. He has some of the most interesting posts! You never fail to amaze, amuse and impress me surapon!! You 'da man!
+1. Mr. Surapon, you are humorous, self-deprecating, always willing to impart knowledge and experience and just a great guy to have around the forums. Cheerio!
I use Black Rapid, Op/Tech or BosStrap methods that transfer the weight to my shoulders hanging across my chest to the side over my hip. The camera hugs my hip and stays out of the way. I also will hang an extra camera from a carabiner over my belt on the other side sometimes when I need another body/lens combo.
Just wondering how does my 430EX-II fit into the system now. Will it work with the RT System or will I have to limit it as an optical slave?
The 430EX II will fit in nicely...if you need a paperweight or a doorstop.
Yet another vote for the 6D, whose low light performance is so good you may find yourself doing more photos of interiors than you do right now. I don't agree that you might as well get a second-hand 5DII - while a 5DII certainly has better image quality than any crop sensor camera, the 6D is better in terms of dynamic range (much less shadow noise and banding if you push shadows; the same is true compared to the 5DIII) and high ISO performance, and it focuses better in low light (than just about anything).
Nor do I see why you would miss your 17-55 - it may be the best such crop zoom, but in my experience it's not as good as the 24-105 on FF, even though the latter is "only" f4.
Technically, all extra glass effects the image quality. However, most of the times the benefit of a filter for protection out ways the better IQ.
I usually carry a box for my filters to I can remove them in special situations like low light, high detail landscape, that sort of stuff. Around children the filter stays on, as I like to get close to children, and they always end up touching my precious glass.
My key learning here? There are DOF calculators for smart phones!
Just checked, I found 44 on iOS. Awesome! I am not one of those people that can do the math in my head and I sometimes panic or worry when taking group shots as to what to set the aperture to.
I was thinking some more about the FM article...and I don't know about anyone else...but I am not taking 1000's of dollars worth of "precise" camera gear out into the field and relying on a glue-in-felt fix that I have to perform myself. (I totally have the skillset to do the fix, too) on a possibly off-center adapter (God that is funny!). If Metabones is selling expensive adapters for top-notch precision camera gear and they are that poorly made...um...NO THANKS.
Sorry guys, still healing up and trying to keep up with my day job & the teaching job I've had to take on to make up for my lost photography income . I have the night off, so I'll try to do it tonight.