« on: October 08, 2014, 07:27:00 AM »
You're perfectly set up already. Buy a new suit!
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I looked at the video and I had cramps in my stomach. I just cannot take this guy seriously. I'm not even sure he knew which DSLR he is talking about (24MP), then he was like "we dared shooting at ISO800, even at ISO1000 and OH MY GOD, *jizz in his pants* OH MY GOD YOU GAIS, it's unbelievable!!". I would like to see some badly lit sports at ISO3200-ISO6400.So it wasn't just me...Scott Kelby is generally gushingly enthusiastic, but he was in other-worldly overdrive in this vid. He's exhausting! Hungry for any 7DII info, I skimmed through it.
Sure he posted, again "OH MY GOD YOU GAIS, 16.000 ISO of nipples", but at fast moving subjects in poorly lit conditions.. this is where it all comes down to what it can do.
Good God you guys are dumb sometimes.Awww be nice. We're not all maths geniuses!
Download the full sized images, a couple have small crops but two are 5472x3648 for 19,961,856 px, a 20MP camera.
Jeez, talk about speculate rather than just think!
Yeah I heard him say 24MP twice also. I was extremely disappointed, given the fact that the released camera will have only 20. I honestly believe canon made it 24MP but decided to use the 20mp in this body so they could keep the camera cheap and sell more.
I think you are right. The early talk was that several prototypes including a 24mp sensor body were being tested. Maybe the one he was using is one of those? That or he just mixed up the specs with an earlier prototype.
Flash tubes have a remarkably short full power rated lifespan. We all generally get hugely more out of them than the ratings but that doesn't change the actual manufacturers specs.Interesting read. Thanks for that. It completely contradicts my own no-doubt narrow though long experience, but maybe I've just been just plain lucky.
I do know however that I fried my 600rt flash a couple of months ago, the flash head was replaced under warranty.Ouch! That's unfortunate. I'm glad you still had warranty cover.
One note: shooting at full power kills your flash, so if you often shoot m flash anyway w/o need for Canon's rt protocol maybe it's a good idea to buy a cheap Pixel flash... ruining the flash tube of a €500 flash seems like a waste of money if a €70 flash does the same thing.Interesting. Where did you read that? In a multi-decade career using flash almost daily, I've never heard this. On the contrary, underused flashes can have shorter lives, but then it's the capacitors that generally fail. Flashes that are stored unused for long periods should be "exercised" from time to time. Profoto used to advise that the big floor-pack flash packs be gradually built up through the power settings after prolonged storage rather than going straight to full-power pops.
As a long time user of both (plus a 17mm) I use the 90mm all the time, but the 45mm only rarely. The 90mm is spectacularly sharp, while the 45 isn't quite in the same league and it also has a few optical chromatic aberration problems when tilted.I agree, of the two go for the 90mm, especially as you're shooting FF. I have the 90mm which I mainly use for products...it's amazingly sharp. But for portraits? Wouldn't you miss AF? I've used mine on a few portrait shoots but nearly always get my best shots with the 70-200 f/2.8isII. I just keep the 90mm for 100% static subjects.
Whenever I switch my 600rt flash from M to ETTL, the flash makes me cycle through these strange modes as there's no way (I know of) to disable them altogether. And I'm always wondering: How uses these anyway?
TBH the MKI is renowned for being a dubious lens and getting a good copy is key...Slight contradiction there...yes there are stellar copies of the MkI in existence, but tend to be rare as hens teeth. After five MkI's all of which were utterly hopeless and unable to be rectified by Canon, I was happy as can be with a great copy of the 24-105 f/4is which I got to see me through until the MkII was released. I didn't expect it to be so good. The 24-105 is a lot of photographers most used and favourite lens, so you could consider one of these. They are a true bargain.
The MKI is a stellar lens, but so is the Tamron. I chose the MKI because I like to stay in the Canon Camp.
Might be worth waiting and see what sigma do with the rumoured 24-70mm F2 IS
Sell your MK I and pick up a MK IIIf the budget allows this is the preferred route. My MkII is so good I've sold off all my primes in the 24-70 range.
Hyper sync - long duration flash over the entire curtain movement
True high sync speeds - standard sync method but @ above 1/250th. (Which is still the best and most efficient but expensive.)
HSS - pulsed flash over the duration of the curtain movement.
I think you misread my comment, all of these methods are ways of syncing at High speeds, hence HSS but the most true form is the traditional method and the others are a workaround.
There is nothing 'true' or 'high sync speed' when syncing above 1/250th or 1/180th or even 1/60th. HSS is syncing multiple bursts over a curtain movement - where the sync is with the slit being exposed is perfectly timed with the speedlites. Syncing with a Leaf shutter doesn't involve multiple bursts.
Syncing with a 'slow' strobe or speedlight where your shutter speed is faster than the lights t.1 time is just that, dealing with slow lights. The issue is that you're not going to get even exposure over the frame, let alone between shots.
Now, with all that said, with the faster studio lights, like Einsteins in the fast mode, or the Bron Move2 packs that'll do a 1/10,000 flash duration, you can 'sync' at 1/125th or even slower, and 'freeze' your subject with light. Then, all syncing at a faster speed does is allow you to kill the ambient light.