September 17, 2014, 10:12:26 PM

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Messages - eninja

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looking thru the photos I took last weekends. Found out that, its a No No to let subject face the sun.
and the best I saw, was the bright sun was a bit behind and on top of the subject - lighting the hair, nose and casting a shadow. Under the shade, without flash, I still find lighting flat, so I find it no good - but for flash maybe its perfect.

looking at this, I remember a simple tool to let you decide where to face your client.
you raise your hand with your palm facing you - then you could see how the sunlight falls to your palm and create shadow.

well I guess I must priority placing subject relative to sunlight THAN placing subject due to nice background/scenery behind.


Don't be afraid to turn your flash up either, as you may need all it's got to overpower the sun. It's good if you can overpower the sun, as the background will look darker and hence the people will pop out of the shot rather than blend into a bright background.

Thanks guys for sharing your experience.. This is a basic good concept to remember.

Do I need color gel for my flash, to balance color with sunlight.

I might need ND filter, to battle sunlight..?

I would like to ask some tips on shooting outdoor family portraits, specifically in the park.
I will try to describe the scenario and hope you can share how would you take the picture.
The only tool i have are camera and flash.

the scene looks like this: Its on a park, there's green grass all over, one big tree, bright skies, hard sunlight,

My specific question is, would the use of flash be better? - i haven't tried and would like to ask for your inputs to get good shot - coz i find my pictures, if taken on shade, background scene is over exposed.
and if i take directly under the sun - light falls on the face too bright - should I use flash and over power the sunlight?

And as Sir Surapon used to say.. thanks thanks thanks to all master teacher here in forum.

Definition of Master: if the effort to attain the goal is lost, the u r a master of it.

How do you focus this lens hand hold?

do you usually guess subject distance?


its possible to judge focus in view finder?


Lenses / Re: Something with 50mm L lens that make it different
« on: July 22, 2014, 01:09:48 AM »

how about, you show us group of images, shot from different lens (50L and others), then we choose which group of photos belongs to which lens.

because we consider a few magical photos before we say that the photo came out unique not just consider one photo. And no post processing.

Reviews / Re: Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 21, 2014, 09:57:53 AM »
Thanks guys.

I knew it there must be something behind the big glass.

The culprit, I was doing AFMA wrong. My target was wrong and I read somewhere that subject must be far enough.
So I download starburst chart and follow Neuro's post back in 2011.
See final AF results below (I resize the chart to fit A4, which was wrong cos AF box does not detect center starburst) - good enough

Now its time to compose some shots. :)

. AF Test
. 35mm f2 IS crop
. 40mm crop

Lenses / Re: Something with 50mm L lens that make it different
« on: July 20, 2014, 11:49:12 PM »
Some can see the Unqiue look in lenses, others can't. (Lomo Petzval Lens is a good example.) I like the 50L's unique look to the other canon 50mm's and It matters more to the photographer than client. Most clients can't tell the difference between a 550D and 1Dx in print but it's the photographers job know the difference for them.

So far none of you photographers has managed to pick out that "unique look", which illustrates my point perfectly and the extent of your credibility.

I can understand the 50% more light than a 1.4, I can understand the "I only use 'the best'" mentality, I can understand the satisfaction of arriving and working with top of the range gear and I can understand people aspiring to own that gear and enjoying using it for what it is. I cannot understand this constant "unique look" bull that nobody can actually identify, sure people give esoteric descriptions of subtleties mere mortals just can't see, bless us and our poor blind deluded selves, but I hate the fact that when challenged by somebody with a bit of experience and confidence every single one of you aficionados baulks, then fails to identify images shot with that "unique look".
If I'm shooting both the 1.4 and 1.2, I will know what images were with the 1.2. I will see the difference and that translates to a look I want.

However, I don't expect someone like yourself who hasn't shown any images of artistic merit of your own to understand this viewpoint. Perhaps you can attempt to map that on a test chart somewhere to add some credibility to your portfolio. :)

Of course you could.... No wait, if we go back to the last time we did this you couldn't tell the difference between the 135 f2 and the 100 f2.8 when used for the same shoot, so why should we believe you now?

As for the rest of your comment, it is a cheap shot at trolling, not gonna play.


I do get the point you trying to make.

But but but.

Sometime you cant just tell the difference, or sometimes you can. But people wont believe you.
I am referring to portrait shots. I wish I can share the pictures.
People argue on what they see and believe in, we can not blame anyone.

Remind me an instance. I am sure the color of petals is near to orange but she insist its near to red.
thus the argument. I can not give up because its really near to orange than red. but she insist sees otherwise.
maybe we are both correct, its how we see it.

Well Pdb, if you can not see it. then look again.
In my case, im still in doubt, thats why I ask..
good to know others also see the difference.

Lenses / Re: Something with 50mm L lens that make it different
« on: July 20, 2014, 11:11:23 PM »
This was my basis for starting this thread:

Few months ago i rented 50 1.2 L.

Recently, I have invested lens average lens, 35mm f2 IS, 40mm and 85mm 1.8,
I also have tried 24-105, 16-35 f2.8 and 24-70 2.8. I used to have 28 1.8.

looking at the pictures taken from these lenses. I always go back to the pictures taken by 50 1.2 L. Even at smaller apertures, the 50 1.2 L produces the wow effect (not all pictures, but most of them).

To be honest, i have not personally tried ef 50 1.4. only look at pictures on line.

Thus I post this thread and see how people like the 50 1.2 L.

Reviews / Re: Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:51:45 PM »
Did you do an AF microadjustment on the 35/2 IS?

Hi Neuro, yes I did.
I will try compare AF and Liveview tonight. I will post images if necessary.

I AF microadjust, twice on two different days and result settings was different.
For my target I use white paper and paste it on a black paper - made sure corner of white paper is on the center of center AF point.
Subject distance is about 2 meters. (I forgot the rule on distance)

any comment on my set up?


Reviews / Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 20, 2014, 09:23:33 PM »
I recently got a 10 month old 35mm f2 IS. On top of my two month old 40mm pancake.

I love the pictures coming out from pancake when it came, so sharp, so cute, so light, no distortion, i can make head shots with no enlarge parts.
6D and 40mm combination as light as like i was holding my nexus 7.

Recently, I invested on 35mm f2 IS.
I could not love the pictures at f2, portrait subject is not sharp, and its just giving me a headache looking at it.
at f2.8 picture almost identical on both lens.
I shoot 1/60 and faster so i eliminate the love for IS.

Field of view wise, with 40mm i can take one step backward and field of view is the same.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. And need more time to play with 35mm. Or I could rent a 35L and see how it fairs.

again f2 is not a keeper at all. or my copy is not sharp as per normal.

Lenses / Something with 50mm L lens that make it different
« on: July 18, 2014, 04:36:32 AM »
i was comparing image taken by 50mm 1.2 L vs 1.4 version.
There something about the image produce by 1.2 L that makes it Wow factor for me.

Like it has something to do with the color and amount of sharpness and gradient balance of depth of field.

Can someone give me insight what the hell is it im liking with the 50mm 1.2 L?

I guess this was a wrong move for him to post this thread. Amateur his referring to may read this thread and follow all the advise you guys gave.

Thanks to this thread I learned few fundamentals.. Thanks for the input guys. I'm 30, just like most, I don't know where I'm headed, you never know what business idea works, might as well give it a try.

Lighting / Re: i spoil my speedlite by using DIY speed grid
« on: July 09, 2014, 11:04:55 PM »
If it doesn't affect your WB across the frame just live with it.

I agree, thanks.

I will test flash, for awhile. If the output is negligible or does not matter at all. I leave it that way, I even often use diffuser and shoot within 100mm focal length.

Lighting / Re: i spoil my speedlite by using DIY speed grid
« on: July 08, 2014, 08:20:35 PM »
If the super glue did not discolor the unit, you may be able to remove it with a de-bonding agent:

Often times super glue (cyanoacrylate) doesn't melt the underlying surface (like model cements) so if it did not discolor the surface you may be able to safely remove it. I'd try a small section and see what happens first.

Thanks, worth to try. I will collect back my un-service speedlite this weekend. I'll try post some pics to let you know the damage. Meanwhile I will purchase this de-bonder and hope will received soon.

Edit: I read its extremely flammable. Don't want to get flamed when something happened during shipping. I guess will just soak it onto water the disassembled parts.

Lighting / Re: i spoil my speedlite by using DIY speed grid
« on: July 07, 2014, 05:42:07 AM »
Even if it had dried, there is a chance it's not thermally stable.


The quotation from canon service was quite expensive. So I guess I need to disassemble the flash head myself and clean the super glue residue.. Worst case, i might just live with it. Light still come out and I usually use a diffuser.

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