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Messages - dppaskewitz

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Software & Accessories / Re: Free DxO Optics Pro 8
« on: October 28, 2014, 10:54:58 AM »
Hi J.R.
I did it the first night it was posted, got the emailed serial no but haven't tried to download the file yet!

Cheers, Graham. 

Is anyone able to get this to work? I'm submitting the required information but the page simply reloads when I click "Submit".

Downloaded, installed and played with a bit.  Thanks for the link.

Does not work for Windows 8

In Windows 8 the codec pack is available and updates are delivered through Windows Update:

Check among "optional updates"

Thank you.  Since I downloaded the optional updates, Windows "Photos" now seems to be working for Win 8.1 64 bit for the 6D and M.  Finally.  Now I don't have to open LR or DPP if I just want to glimpse at a photo.  Of course, I haven't yet figured out how to get back to civilization from the Win 8 interface after I open a file in "Photos."  I truly believe there is something in the water in Microsoft land.  No rational person could have thought Win 8 was a good idea........on any level.  ("Civilization" means the add on "start menu" program I added so I wouldn't have to have the geeks put me back to Win 7).  [End Rant].

Photography Technique / Re: Filters
« on: October 05, 2014, 11:15:11 AM »
Ok, so both of you are suggesting that I get the 82mm CPL and Lee if I want to experiment with them? I looked at some videos and articles on line, looks like there is a pretty steep learning curve for them? I have a trip planned for Southern UT/Northern AZ next year and found on reading that ND filters are almost a must for that landscape. I want to practice for a while so by the time that time comes around I can be comfortable. But, it's a substantial investment in money as well. But I think I agree with both of you to get another CPL as that is my most used lens and using a step up/down ring will be a pain and of course I will not be able to use the hood, though using a hood with a CPL is quite the pain as well.
Are there good and reliable resources on how to use the Lee filters? Thanks

I found using the ND grads to be fairly intuitive, especially using live view.  Once you have the Lee holder on and slip in the grad, you can see the effect very clearly in live view.  So, positioning isn't really a problem.  And you can get a sense fairly easily of how many stops you want to, for example, darken the sky.  If you get into Lee, you may want to pick up one or two soft grads for your planned trip.  I understand they are more useful for irregular horizons, as you will likely find in Utah/Arizona.  Hard grads work better for flat horizons (oceans, flat deserts).  (Disclosure:  although I now own a soft grad, I have only used hard grads so far).  I too recommend getting the CPL that fits the lens.  And keeping your 77mm for other lenses.  If you are shooting where you need/want the CPL, you will really want to have one on all the lenses you are shooting with to save swap time.  (Assumes you are using the CPL without the Lee system, which happens for me fairly often).  One issue you will need to solve is how to CPL the Lee system.  One of Lee's ways is with a 105mm CPL mounted on the filter holder.  There are multiple threads here discussing that method and vignetting with wider lenses.  I haven't sprung for the 105 CPL yet, but likely will soon.   (It allows independent rotation of the Lee filters and the CPL, which is necessary.  I have been putting the CPL between the lens and the Lee holder - that really doesn't work well at all). 

Photography Technique / Re: Why 3:2 aspect ratio?
« on: September 26, 2014, 12:16:06 PM »
In fact, just review all the old photo paper sizes and the aspect ratios aren't consistent. 

And it isn't just "old" photo paper sizes.  Beyond 4X6, larger paper sizes don't seem to come in the 2X3 aspect ratio (at least standard paper from, for example, Epson).  And what about pre-made frames and mats?  5X7 and 8X10.  Sure, other dimensions are available, but one would think that paper/frame/mat manufacturers would go out of their way to provide easily usable materials in the 2X3 ratio.  We can crop to other aspects, but don't we sometimes actually want to print and frame what we saw when we snapped?  Without having mats cut and frames made?  (OK, I understand that an enormously small percentage of today's photos are ever printed, but isn't that still sort of the ultimate test of whether we captured something of merit?) 

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: One is the loneliest number...
« on: September 19, 2014, 01:02:48 PM »
I recently took the Great Circle Tour around Manhattan Island.  I used the 70-200 f/4 on the 6D and the 18-55 on the M.  Not a situation where you want to be changing lenses (the "scenery" is constantly changing) and the M was adequate for the wider angle shots.  The M is small enough that you can bring it along and even use it as a second active camera (not just a backup) in similar situations.  But not so much in shooting action.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: POLL: What's more important, gps or wifi?
« on: September 19, 2014, 12:54:32 PM »
I use the GPS on my 6D all the time (I never don't turn it on, unless I forget).  I haven't yet figured out how to use the built in Wifi (but it's only been a year and a half since I bought the camera, so there is still time).  I wouldn't upload photos using Wifi (shooting Raw and generally in the boondocks, as someone else mentioned).  But it might be useful for remote control from a cell phone or tablet.  I have seen other posts where folks have mentioned that use (something about bugs and a car, if I recall correctly).  One of these days, I'll figure it out...........


The 6D GPS stays on all the time?

Also, one other GPS benefit I forgot to mention.  Were I to say step on a rattlesnake or find myself a bit mangled after tangling with an alligator, having the GPS coordinates of where I am would be nice.  Yes, my phone has GPS, but in many areas where I have 1 bar or SOS service only, GPS doesn't really work too well.

It does.  I haven't tried Magic Lantern.  One of these days................

I personally have not had a problem with battery drain by the GPS.  With a grip and two batteries, they last all day.  With one battery and spare, I have only had to swap out once per day.

The biggest problem I have with the 6D GPS is that it struggles initially to find itself (hence, perhaps, why Canon has it programmed to remain on whether or not the camera is powered down).  And, it sometimes loses itself even when I am out in the open, where access to satellites has to be about as good as can be.  It sometimes blinks for a while, signifying that it is looking for a fix, then find itself again.  Hopefully, Canon has done a better job with the GPS in the 7DII (and will with future models).  Also, no way that I know of that the 6D GPS can tell you where you are until after the fact.

I agree, it's very cool.  But, this geotagging business is hard work.  When I turn on the camera in the morning, I go to the menu and turn on the internal GPS.  Before I turn off the camera in the evening, I do the reverse.  Then download the photos to LR5.  Going to the "Map" module in LR5 shows the locations of all of my shots.  On a Google Maps map, so I can zoom in, switch to "satellite" and so forth.  I'm not sure why all cameras don't work that way.  Can't take too much room, since they squeezed it into the tiny 6D.  And it apparently can be put into a titanium body (isn't that what the new 7DII is made from?).  And can't be all that costly (witness the 6D and 7D).  Am I missing anything? 

Lenses / Re: Canon EF 1200mm f/5.6L For Sale
« on: August 16, 2014, 10:02:20 AM »
Dear Surapon,

Here is your chance!!!!!

Regards, DPP

Post Processing / Re: Smart objects
« on: August 07, 2014, 12:38:40 PM »
Does anyone know:  do smart objects work the same way as editing in LR, where the edits are commands stored in a separate XMP file so that your underlying RAW file is never changed?  Sounds like Adobe took that from LR and built it into PS?

I don't edit in PS very often (I have the CC version but really haven't started to learn how to use it).  My workflow (if I can dignify what I do with such a term) is to import everything into LR, figure out which photos I want to work on, edit in LR, then if I think PS would be useful (mostly so far only for content aware fill to get rid of stuff) I use "edit in PS" and create a Tiff from the photo (with the LR edits) for that purpose.  Sound like I should edit the LR adjusted photo as a smart object in PS.  If I understand correctly, that would just be adding further commands to the XMP file and I wouldn't end up with so many versions of the same photo.  Does this make sense to anyone? 

OK, I have some tutorials to watch.  Thanks for the links.

Post Processing / Re: Merging Multiple Exposures
« on: August 06, 2014, 10:49:17 PM »
Nice work, but, as a photographer, it does not look real.  It reminds me of TV shows where they green screen a outdoor scene or a person doing weather.  Something in my brain sees it and says its not real.

Please don't take offense, I referring to the process in general, not to your specific work

I agree it doesn't necessarily look "natural," but I think for the purpose (which I take to be showing both interior and view in a single image to sell real estate) the technique provides a great result.

My innocent question:  how much different would the final result look if done in something like Photomatix and selecting the "natural" profile?  I ask because I have used Photomatix and have, on occasion, achieved OK results.  Wondering if it would be worthwhile to up my game by learning the procedure you describe in PS CC (like Michael, I am pretty new to PS and would love a step by step).

Canon General / Re: What is your Least Used Piece of Gear?
« on: August 05, 2014, 10:51:15 PM »

Now it is the 300F2.8.  I use the longer glass - this is for my wife to use if she wants a mini-great white :)

Man, you've got a great supportive wife. My wife would say "why do you need another lens"?

I got my wife hooked on photography.  Now she says, "Can we buy another lens?"   ;)

I've tried.  I've really tried.  How did you do it?

Thanks for your input.  I'm learning.  My comments below in RED.

Great stuff, thanks.

A few responses:

  • I always forget about back button AF.  I'm too stubborn to switch, but yes, that would cleverly solve the shutter button refocus problem I referred to.  On my 6D, I have Custom Function III as one of my options on ""My menu settings."  Makes switching out of back button focusing (by enabling shutter button metering and focusing) relatively easy.  I imagine other modern cameras would have similar.  Not so much on my old 5D.

  • ND 3.0 = 10 stops, right?  That's 2^10 (i.e. 1,024) times less light getting through, so that's your shutter speed multiplier, isn't it?  My phone app says 1000x for a 3.0 ND, and the Lee card would seem to corroborate that:  It took me a while, but now I get it.  Simply multiply 1024 by the shutter speed without the Big Stopper to get the exposure time with the Big Stopper.  Since most of the shutter speeds without are really fractions of 1 over something, the actual calculation is to divide 1024 by the denominator of the shutter speed (e.g., divide 1024 by 250 for a shutter speed of 1/250th, yielding an exposure time of roughly 4 seconds, which is in accord with the Lee card).  And then divide by sixty to get minutes, if that is helpful in keeping track of the time.  Good to know in the field if the cell phone app isn't working and the Lee card is somewhere else. 

  • "Inputting ISO and aperture" means that I leave M or Av mode (whatever mode I framed the shot in) and go to Bulb.  Switching settings (especially away from Av) often moves things back to what I last shot manually, which usually means I lose my settings.  I have to do to bulb usually b/c my exposures are often longer than 30 seconds and all modes other than Bulb caps at 30s, I thought.  Bulb mode is basically M without a shutter speed input, so all you need is ISO and aperture -- that's where the statement came from.
  Right you are.  On the 6D, when I switch from M (my framing, focusing and aperture setting mode) to B (for shots over 30 seconds),  the ISO appears to stay the same as set in M (which makes sense) but as you note, the aperture changes to whatever aperture I had set when last using B, not what I had last set in M.  Thanks for the reminder.

- A

Canon General / Re: What is your Least Used Piece of Gear?
« on: July 31, 2014, 05:29:40 PM »

3) a 2nd big stopper filter that is waiting for the first one to break

I too ended up with two Big Stoppers.  I ordered from two sources back when they were scarce.  I figured I could always sell one of them.  Now, despite Neuro's advice that I should have a spare (which I wouldn't be carrying anyway), I need to get around to selling it.

sorry for stupid question but if i put a 10stop nd filter and a CPL i cant see anything what do you do to find out how much to turn the CPL for example to remove reflections in water?

You need to do is rotate your CPL until you achieve the desired result, then put your 10 stop ND filter in.  A 10 stop ND filter is always last to go in after you have set up your composition and adjusted any needed filters as you can't see anything after it is in front of your lens.

That's correct.  My approach (noting I've only used mine about 5 times) is below, and any comments/feedback would be welcomed:

1) I scout the shot handheld and then set up.  Tripod, cable release, Lee ring & holder, etc.

2) Switch to M, Av, Tv mode -- whatever you prefer.  ISO 100*.  Always shoot RAW with the Big Stopper -- many have a color shift that you need to back out in post, and RAW gives you a greater ability to do that.  For a host of reasons, I switch to manual focus before doing anything.  (Forgetting to do this later can burn you when the Big Stopper is in place.)  I never remember to do this, but this is where I should cover the optical viewfinder for the odd risk of light leak.

3) In LiveView, I frame up everything the way I want it.  Everything but the Big Stopper should be in place (CPL, ND Grad perhaps, etc.) and rotated / located the way I want it.  I won't get into composition as I'm a rookie on that front, but on the technical side of things, I usually opt to manually focus at 10x zoom 1/3 of the way into the frame as many landscapers recommend.

4) If LiveView is showing me what I want to see in the shot (minus the long exposure the Big Stopper will give me), I write down or remember my aperture and ISO settings.

5) I put my Big Stopper in.  My new shutter speed will be whatever I had before times 2^10 = 1024.  (Note this is a rough number and that your specific Big Stopper may vary a bit -- you'll learn this as you shoot with it.)  You can do the math yourself, read the card that came with your Big Stopper, or just get an ND filter app for your phone.

6) I usually just switch to Bulb mode, but you technically don't have to if the computed time is under 30 seconds -- you can use M mode then.  I input the ISO and aperture from LiveView, and I take the shot with a cable release (in the locked position) and a timer on my phone.  I haven't invested in an cable release with a built-in timer, but that is an option as well.

*I'd imagine that you don't always want 1,024x slowdown and buttery blending.  But if you don't have standalone ND filters that are less strong than the Big Stopper, could you cheat and push ISO up to speed up the shot in Step 4, and by extension, take a much shorter final exposure, right? I know jacking up ISO is heresy for a landscape shooter, but it is possible, right?

Feedback appreciated if there is an easier/better way to use the Big Stopper, thanks!

- A

I am by no means an expert.  I have used other NDs more than the Big Stopper, but the principles are pretty much the same.  I concur with you and have only a few additional thoughts.

I use M mode almost all the time (except, for example, from a moving train), because that is what I am getting used to (makes much more sense to me than exposure compensation, for example).  I suppose Av would also work, but that seems to me to be an extra step, once the aperture is set in M anyway.  Concur on RAW (if using LR, I don't see the need to shoot anything else).  I use back button focus.  Then, if I remember not to push the back button after focusing, however I have focused (that is, using either camera mode or tweaking with the focus ring in Live View), I am set with focus and don't need to switch back and forth to manual focus.

I do use 100 ISO unless I am using other NDs than the Big Stopper, for example 2 stops plus 3 stops, and need another stop slower.  Then I use 50 ISO.  I haven't thought of or tried your idea of pushing ISO and adjusting exposure time.

I tend to use an app to check depth of field because my eyesight isn't great.  I do use live view and 10X magnification when possible (i.e., when there isn't a glare problem I can't overcome).

I don't follow you on the shutter speed being 1024 times whatever the camera said without the Big Stopper (at set ISO and aperture).  I find either the Big Stopper card or a phone app. will give the answer.

I'm not sure what you mean by inputting the ISO and aperture.  Aren't those already in the camera?  Don't you just adjust the shutter speed by the 10 stops (or so, depending on your Big Stopper)?

I've been just counting out the seconds when I need to go to bulb, but the EXIF data generally tells me I got it wrong (I didn't give it as much time as I thought I did), so I like your idea of using the cell phone timer.  Or investing in a cable release with timer (so many gadgets, so little money).


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