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Messages - dppaskewitz

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31
sorry for stupid question but if i put a 10stop nd filter and a CPL i cant see anything what do you do to find out how much to turn the CPL for example to remove reflections in water?

You need to do is rotate your CPL until you achieve the desired result, then put your 10 stop ND filter in.  A 10 stop ND filter is always last to go in after you have set up your composition and adjusted any needed filters as you can't see anything after it is in front of your lens.

That's correct.  My approach (noting I've only used mine about 5 times) is below, and any comments/feedback would be welcomed:

1) I scout the shot handheld and then set up.  Tripod, cable release, Lee ring & holder, etc.

2) Switch to M, Av, Tv mode -- whatever you prefer.  ISO 100*.  Always shoot RAW with the Big Stopper -- many have a color shift that you need to back out in post, and RAW gives you a greater ability to do that.  For a host of reasons, I switch to manual focus before doing anything.  (Forgetting to do this later can burn you when the Big Stopper is in place.)  I never remember to do this, but this is where I should cover the optical viewfinder for the odd risk of light leak.

3) In LiveView, I frame up everything the way I want it.  Everything but the Big Stopper should be in place (CPL, ND Grad perhaps, etc.) and rotated / located the way I want it.  I won't get into composition as I'm a rookie on that front, but on the technical side of things, I usually opt to manually focus at 10x zoom 1/3 of the way into the frame as many landscapers recommend.

4) If LiveView is showing me what I want to see in the shot (minus the long exposure the Big Stopper will give me), I write down or remember my aperture and ISO settings.

5) I put my Big Stopper in.  My new shutter speed will be whatever I had before times 2^10 = 1024.  (Note this is a rough number and that your specific Big Stopper may vary a bit -- you'll learn this as you shoot with it.)  You can do the math yourself, read the card that came with your Big Stopper, or just get an ND filter app for your phone.

6) I usually just switch to Bulb mode, but you technically don't have to if the computed time is under 30 seconds -- you can use M mode then.  I input the ISO and aperture from LiveView, and I take the shot with a cable release (in the locked position) and a timer on my phone.  I haven't invested in an cable release with a built-in timer, but that is an option as well.

*I'd imagine that you don't always want 1,024x slowdown and buttery blending.  But if you don't have standalone ND filters that are less strong than the Big Stopper, could you cheat and push ISO up to speed up the shot in Step 4, and by extension, take a much shorter final exposure, right? I know jacking up ISO is heresy for a landscape shooter, but it is possible, right?

Feedback appreciated if there is an easier/better way to use the Big Stopper, thanks!

- A

I am by no means an expert.  I have used other NDs more than the Big Stopper, but the principles are pretty much the same.  I concur with you and have only a few additional thoughts.

I use M mode almost all the time (except, for example, from a moving train), because that is what I am getting used to (makes much more sense to me than exposure compensation, for example).  I suppose Av would also work, but that seems to me to be an extra step, once the aperture is set in M anyway.  Concur on RAW (if using LR, I don't see the need to shoot anything else).  I use back button focus.  Then, if I remember not to push the back button after focusing, however I have focused (that is, using either camera mode or tweaking with the focus ring in Live View), I am set with focus and don't need to switch back and forth to manual focus.

I do use 100 ISO unless I am using other NDs than the Big Stopper, for example 2 stops plus 3 stops, and need another stop slower.  Then I use 50 ISO.  I haven't thought of or tried your idea of pushing ISO and adjusting exposure time.

I tend to use an app to check depth of field because my eyesight isn't great.  I do use live view and 10X magnification when possible (i.e., when there isn't a glare problem I can't overcome).

I don't follow you on the shutter speed being 1024 times whatever the camera said without the Big Stopper (at set ISO and aperture).  I find either the Big Stopper card or a phone app. will give the answer.

I'm not sure what you mean by inputting the ISO and aperture.  Aren't those already in the camera?  Don't you just adjust the shutter speed by the 10 stops (or so, depending on your Big Stopper)?

I've been just counting out the seconds when I need to go to bulb, but the EXIF data generally tells me I got it wrong (I didn't give it as much time as I thought I did), so I like your idea of using the cell phone timer.  Or investing in a cable release with timer (so many gadgets, so little money).

DPP

32
Canon General / Re: What is your Least Used Piece of Gear?
« on: July 31, 2014, 11:39:45 AM »
My 50 1.4.  I tend to use the 24-105 more often.  When I want to go smallish, it's the 40 pancake.

33
Instead of adapting for and purchasing a 105mm CPL, just get a 4x4 CPL from Lee or other mfgs...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/216637-REG/LEE_Filters_PLC_G_4x4_Circular_Polarizer_Glass.html

This solution requires two Lee foundation kits that rotate independently (so you can align your grad and CPL independently of one another).  If I recall correctly other posts on this topic, you end up with a vignetting issue when you get down to UWAs.  If I'm wrong, I would be happy to know that.

34
My test setup:
5d Mark II, tripod mounted, 18" away, EF 16-35mm f/4L IS, shooting at f/8, B+W 77mm XS-Pro 007 front filter, Lee wide-angle adaptor, Lee holder with two slots, 105mm ring, and a B+W Extra Wide KSM Circular Polarizer.

My results were the same; it vignettes ever so slightly at 19mm and is completely clear by 20mm. Removing just the 77mm XS-Pro 007, I have the same ever-so-slight vignetting at 17mm and it's clear at 18mm.

If you want the maximum usable range on your 16-35mm with the CPL attached, get the Extra Wide CPL from B+W and remove the protective front filer: vignette-free from 18-35mm. If you insist on keeping the protective front filter on, just understand that you're limiting yourself to 20-35mm.

As has been mentioned, you can always carry a second Lee holder with only one slot. I've got no vignetting at 16mm with B+W 007, wide angle adaptor, Lee holder with one slot, 105mm ring, and the B+W EW CPL. You'll just have to decide between long exposure and balanced lighting.

Very informative.  Thank you.  I think you just cost me something north of $500 (B+W 105 Extra Wide CPL, 105 mm ring and extra Lee holder (for one slot only).  I have been on the fence, but this seems to be the way to go.  Oh, and that's not counting the difference between what I get for my 17-40 and what the 16-35 F4 costs me.

35
Landscape / Re: my steam locomotive/railroad/trains photography
« on: July 23, 2014, 10:34:32 AM »
I am also a railroad enthusiast.  (I am attending a Santa Fe convention this week.)  I have looked at many photographs of trains.  I have taken several (thousands) myself.  Yours are up there with the very best.  Your opening slide show is a great way to present some of them.  Great website.  And welcome to CR.

36
If Canon is listening.......................  Touch screen is nice, but there has to be a way to turn it off and on without turning off the camera.  I am getting to like the touch screen on the M, but if you leave the camera on and the camera bounces around, all your settings have changed.

Did they use a resistive touchscreen or something?

I don't know what type of touchscreen it is.  Or what kinds exist.  But, so far as I know, there is no way to turn it off on the M. So, if you have the M on and bouncing around as you move, some of the settings will change (and you of course don't know which ones).  So I have made it a habit of just turning the camera off between shots when I carry it, but would much prefer being able to leave it on, use the rudimentary controls to take quick shots and then be able to turn the touch on and off quickly to access other settings, etc.

On my cell phone, I use an app called Strava when biking.  It uses GPS, etc., to track your route and tell you things like miles traveled, altitude gained, etc.  (a nice, free app for those who like to keep track of where they have gone when hiking or biking).  Anyway, in a recent update, they added a feature that turns the touch screen off on the phone after the app starts accumulating data.  So, no inadvertent entries when you stick your phone in a pocket or whatever while biking.  An easy swipe when you are done restarts the touch screen and you are good to go.  Seems it wouldn't be hard to add to the M  (maybe Magic Lantern has done it already?)

Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread.......................................

37
Software & Accessories / Re: Lee Big Stpper with UV filters
« on: July 19, 2014, 02:04:50 PM »
Not completely relevant to the thread, but I said I'd follow up. Like the 17-40mm f/4L, the 16-35mm f/4L IS has no vignetting at 20mm and above with an B+W XS-Pro clear filter, wide angle Lee adaptor, Lee filter holder with two slots and a 105mm adaptor, and a B+W 105mm extra wide circular polarizer. My 24-70mm f/4L IS is good at 24mm.

I'm curious whether you can go below 20 mm with either the 17-40 or 16-35 f/4 if you take the clear filter off before attaching Lee wide angle adaptor/holder/105mm adaptor and B+W 105mm extra wide CPL (I take it this is the one that is 105mm on the attaching side, and larger on the side towards the subject)?

It would be useful to know for those who do go bare when using the Lee system (and I have been one of them - although I confess I have been using the CPL between lens and Lee and have gotten it to work sortof - not well).

I did a quick test on my 17-40 with Lee holder, 2 slots, with 105mm ring attached. Oh and to answer the question what 105mm cirpol I'm using look at the picture  ;)

All images shot at F8 against a whiteish wall, I've overexposed them somewhat to get rid of the shadows on the wall. The ones taken with the cirpol has a four time longer shutter speed to account for loosing about 2-stops with the cirpol.

First image is taken at 17mm with just the filter holder attached to the lens, so there is no vignetting from the 105mm filter ring attachment.
Image number two is at 17mm with the cirpol on, obvious vignetting.
Number 3 at 20mm with cirpol, slight vignetting in the corner.
Number 4 at 21mm no vignetting visible.

Edit: Oh, the order got messed up, but I guess you can read the filename for each image. Sorry about that.

MRO:

Thanks for the info.  Are you using the Lee 77mm wide angle (W/A) adapter ring, or the standard one (Lee 77mm Std)?  Just curious. 

Thanks, DPP

38
EOS-M / Re: Arca Swiss plate for EOS M
« on: July 19, 2014, 01:56:40 PM »
OR, Tiny EOS-M with EF 600 Lens + 2X Extender, for the Birds Photography.
Enjoy
Surapon

Thank you for this.  Anyone with a 1200mm mounted on an M (or the other way around)? 

39

For those stuck with a style of LCD they do not prefer, would you pay a typical Canon markup price for an add-on like a grip or wireless speedlite transmitter (let's say $300) to have the option to dismount your current LCD 'module' for one with the functionality you prefer?  Let's presume is was quick-connect-like and could be changed out in a matter of seconds (like a lens).

Would you own more than one and change them out based on what you are shooting?


Never say never, but I doubt I would.  Far better for Canon to put an articulating touch screen on all cameras and then let folks articulate and/or touch if they want to or leave face out and not touch if they don't.

40
EOS-M / Re: Arca Swiss plate for EOS M
« on: July 18, 2014, 11:33:56 AM »
EOS M on a 500mm F4 with a 1.4 extndr

That's what I'm talking about.  Now I just need the 500mm..........................................

41
EOS-M / Re: Arca Swiss plate for EOS M
« on: July 18, 2014, 12:00:51 AM »
Dear Friend DPP.
One thing that you need to know, If you crazy like me, who use Big " L " Lenses with EOS-M----We can  not use the Arca Swiss plate at the EOS-M body---We will damage the  bottom part of the tiny body, because the Big "L " Lens are so heavy and  might shear off/ or damage the Tiny body of EOS-M.
You need to spend  $ 5 more Dollars to buy extra Arca Swiss plate to mount on the Lens adaptor

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-New-50mm-Quick-Release-Plate-PU-50-For-Benro-B0-J1-N1-Arca-Swiss-Compatible-/271525605514?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f382ff08a

Yes, All of my Big " L " Lenses have the spare Arca Swiss plates and ready to roll.
Enjoy
Surapon

Dear Surapon,

My Really Right Stuff package arrived today!  Included was this plate for my M:

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/s.nl/sc.26/category.2466/.f

I think I like yours better, with the included grip.

I also ordered this Sunwayfoto plate for the M when I thought the RRS stuff was delayed:

http://www.amazon.com/SUNWAYFOTO-Plate-DP-26-Compatible-Sunway/dp/B008GN1GJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405655180&sr=8-1&keywords=sunwayfoto+dp-26

It fits fine on the foot of the adaptor (when offset so that it clears the body of the M when taking on and off). 

I am looking forward to using longer lenses with the M, which is why I think the adapter is useful.  So far, I have only the 100-400, 70-200 f/4 and 100L.  All have rings (I bought the cheap ones for the latter two, since Canon doesn't supply for those lenses) and Sunwayfoto Arca/swiss plates. 

I don't see much of a point in using the M with shorter full size lenses, because I like the results with the 22 and 18-55.  For me, the M is either small with the M lenses or attached to something longer to play with (if for no other reason, it looks cool attached to the 100-400).  So, I probably won't get much use out of the adapter foot.

Regards, DPP

42
Software & Accessories / Re: Lee Big Stpper with UV filters
« on: July 17, 2014, 11:38:18 PM »
Not completely relevant to the thread, but I said I'd follow up. Like the 17-40mm f/4L, the 16-35mm f/4L IS has no vignetting at 20mm and above with an B+W XS-Pro clear filter, wide angle Lee adaptor, Lee filter holder with two slots and a 105mm adaptor, and a B+W 105mm extra wide circular polarizer. My 24-70mm f/4L IS is good at 24mm.

I'm curious whether you can go below 20 mm with either the 17-40 or 16-35 f/4 if you take the clear filter off before attaching Lee wide angle adaptor/holder/105mm adaptor and B+W 105mm extra wide CPL (I take it this is the one that is 105mm on the attaching side, and larger on the side towards the subject)?

It would be useful to know for those who do go bare when using the Lee system (and I have been one of them - although I confess I have been using the CPL between lens and Lee and have gotten it to work sortof - not well).

43
If Canon is listening.......................  Touch screen is nice, but there has to be a way to turn it off and on without turning off the camera.  I

Apparently, someone heard you, because on my G1X MK II, I have set the "Display Off" function to the shortcut button by using the custom menu settings.  That turns it on/off with a button push.

I can also turn off/on the touch screen function in the settings.

Great.  Now if Canon would only include such a function for the M via a firmware update.........  (I know, I'm dreaming). 

44
EOS-M / Re: Arca Swiss plate for EOS M
« on: July 17, 2014, 02:15:41 PM »
[quote/]
Dear Friend DPP.
Well, I use RRS BH-55 Ballhead, and can use this grip in Portrait Position by adjust the ball head at the side slot hole, But If I want to use the Flash L Grip holder, Yes, I must remove this add on grip + Arca plate, to make camera  flat bottom.
The Bad thing = Add the biger body to tiny EOS-M not fit in my pant pocket any more ----Ha, Ha, Ha---But the great thing = Perfected fit to big hand like you and me.
Surapon
[/quote]

Dear Surapon,

Thanks.  I have the RRS BH-55 coming soon (along with new RRS legs).  And a RRS plate for the M.  Hopefully it will all arrive before I leave on vacation Monday.  I'll see how the RRS plate works, but I like the idea of the integrated grip.

DPP

45
If Canon is listening.......................  Touch screen is nice, but there has to be a way to turn it off and on without turning off the camera.  I am getting to like the touch screen on the M, but if you leave the camera on and the camera bounces around, all your settings have changed.  Articulating:  I had one on my G1 (that's the original G1 from circa 2001).  Worked fine (even though it is tiny).  Probably still works fine.  I haven't used that camera in a while.  As someone else noted, articulating or not is way down on the priority list in selecting a camera.  And if I could only figure out Wifi on the 6D, I could use my phone or my wife's tablet as an articulating screen...........

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