Thanks. A judge criticised the lack of catchlights on the first one and suggested that some should be put in, but it wouldn't have suited the mood I wanted to generate. He also criticised the other one for the model not looking at the camera .
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A 30x20 inch print from the 5D MkII would be output at 187 pixels/inch. On the wall of a shop, I very much doubt that any customers walking in would see any visible loss of sharpness at that resolution. You would need to start looking up close to have any chance and even then, I doubt many would notice. Lens quality would have a much bigger impact and realistically, when it comes to landscapes, provided it is acceptably sharp in the first place, the colour and composition has a much bigger impact. Uneven sharpness (either due to corner lens softness or insufficient depth of field) is much more noticeable than slight, even softness across the frame.I understand. If you can come up with an AMAZING marketing plan for using all of those MP or all that DR that you have, that can give a business an edge.
If not it's just slightly bigger prints. Slightly cleaner shadows. Stuff my clients will never notice. Stuff that even my photographers friends won't notice.
To be fair not all photography businesses are the same and how sucessful they are doesnt nesserally denote how much they need extra megapixels.
A semi pro landscape photographer being able to put a tack sharp 30 X 20 inch print on the shop wall rather than say a 24 X 16 print is going to potentially create more impact and charge more.
They're also meant to be blurry all over .
And the most photographed animal in the world! The Token Cat photo, never thought i'd post a cat photo but it's El TIgre and he is a cool cat! He stayed by us for prob 4 hrs strait out there.
No, no, no, you're doing it wrong. Cat photos are taken with cell phones and are heavily back lit.
I just did a similar test, taking two outdoor pictures with my new 5D MK iii. The one without the lcd light on is metered for 10" exposure duration and turns out fine. When I use the lcd backlight the meter shows 6" exposure duration and the shot gets underexposed by almost one 1 stop.Is it normal practice (for you or anyone else for that matter) to have the LCD backlight on when metering? If your answer is no, then just use it as you normally would and don't waste your time and potentially money returning it. If yes, then may be you need to review your practices and/or make manual adjustments.
I acknowledge these tripod mounted night shots with long exposure duration are not the ones I do regularly, but to me the light leak problem seems very real.
So, should I send the camera back?
Hello all,Might be worth checking whether you can lower yours by either removing the centre column or replacing it with a short version, to enqable the legs to splay out as far as possible. Most enable you to do one or the other.
Seeing how spring is here and there's a lot of little plants I've been photoing for fun, I've come up with a new want - a low to the ground tripod. My current one works fine for most things knee high up, but I'd like something that has the body sit a few inches off the ground so I can take some longer exposure with narrow aperture to get a better depth of field.
Sure, I shoot loads of film. I have an EOS 3 and an EOS 5, both of which take EF lenses just like a modern EOS camera. And the flash works too...I actually bought a second hand EOS 3 to try out Velvia and Sensia, as well as try out the f/8 AF, but some of the early scans on my Nikon scanner were pretty soft and quite noisy. Now there is the compatibility issue with Windows 7 and 64 bit, so I haven't fully tried the experiment I'd originally intended. I since got a sturdier tripod (mainly for my 300 f/2.8, but it's also better for landscapes) and have found a company that can process the film and offers a value for money high resolution scan, so I need to look into it again.
The EOS 3 in particular is a fantastic camera - full frame (of course!), eye control focus, weather sealed, 8 fps, a real delight - and all for about £100 or maybe $150, on eBay !
I use a Nikon negative scanner, and then Lightroom 4 and Nik plugins, and have all the joy of digital post-process workflow...
Maybe you can the same effects with digital, and I do use a DSLR too, but somehow, you just KNOW that you have black and white film in the body, and it somehow alters your perception. Likewise, a bit of Fuji Velvia 50 for landscape or Portra for portraits. Superb.
The thing is, with 36 exposures, you have to THINK about what you are doing.
I also have a Mamiya RZ67 (medium format, 6x7 negative), which I use occasionally, but not so much joy with that yet - much tougher to use, more demanding, and harder to scan well. Manual focus, manual exposure, and a beast to lug around. I'll get there one day...
Aiming for a 5D3 later this year.
Daniel, I just ordered a 24 II tonight, I hope it blows the doors out for me, been dreamin about it for a few years. This is an expensive month!
I assume that was taken on your new 5dm3? The image is very clean.
What can you tell me about the 24 II from your personal connection with it?
Sorry, I was referring to the article I forgot to link to.I don't know which article you are referring to as page 4...The link i provided had several articles on it.Is this the one you are talking about:No it wasn't, I haven't seen that one, I'll have to have a read later in the week.
edit: this is for the 1DX, but it is helpful as well:
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2012/1dx_guidebook.shtml?categoryId=12The AF system starts on page 4, with the bit I was referring to on page 5.The article I was thinking of was actually for the 1D X, not the 5D MkIII and isn't specific, but it states that you shouldn't use single point spot for low light (which is irrelevant to this thread and obvious to most of us anyway) and that point expansion is to improve tracking. Reading between the lines, it suggests that point expansion shouldn't be used for slow moving/stationary targets. So while it isn't clear, it's suggestive that single point is the best option for low light. Of course, whether that makes it it any quicker isn't guaranteed.That is helpful information. If you find the link back that would be sweet.
This link has good info at the Canon learning center.