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Messages - elflord

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646
EOS Bodies / Re: 5Diii vs 7Dii (FF vs APS-C)
« on: October 29, 2011, 05:18:02 PM »


I think you would be very surprised how many 5DII owners have 7Ds as well.

The cost of the 5DII is not just the body - but the lens as well. I have a 400f/2.8 IS which is a terrific super tele on the 7D. What lens for the 5DII would you suggest would match that?

Take my 70-200 f/2.8 - on the 5DII the nearest is the 70-300L - not really a match.

Move down to the 135F2 and 85 f1.2  and do the same comparison.

The 5D2 is a great camera - providing you can get the lens, the fps and the AF to match the subjects you take.

The 7D is the top of the NON specialist bodies.

Not quite that simple -- if I do the same comparison for the 135 and the 85, the 135mm f/2 replaces the 85mm f/1.2 on full frame (at about half the price) and the 200mm f/2.8 replaces the 135mm f/2.  On full frame, lenses like the 85mm f/1.2, f/2.8 zooms, and the 200mm f/2 have no replacement on APS-C that provides the same dof and fov. So if you want shallow dof, you are much better off with FF.

In terms of the 400mm f/2.8 -- you have the 600mm f/4 which is about the same weight.

You will generally get more reach for less $ on APS-C though (you also have access to several very good and inexpensive wide angle choices)

647
Lenses / Re: Buy 24-70 f2.8L now or wait for 24-70 f2.8L II
« on: October 29, 2011, 05:25:08 AM »
From my understanding, I heard or read somewhere in this forum that the mark II of this lens wont have IS. Is that true? Can anyone verify or is it still a rumor at this stage?

I heard good and bad things about the mark I version. Bad being, quality control issues and if you are unlucky you might end up getting a lens that may need to be calibrated in order to achieve crisp sharpness. So many had to resolve to multiple exchanges before ending up with one that was right for their body. I am not sure how seriously I should take this...can anyone help me out?

patent applications so far suggest that it won't have IS (scan the old posts here) and there's not much reason for them to put it in -- on full frame, you need about 1/70 at the tele end to prevent camera shake and you usually want that kind of speed for other reasons (to freeze your subjects).

Contrast with the 15-85mm on a crop -- you need about 1/150 at the tele end to prevent camera shake, so a stop or two of IS really helps.

About "bokeh" -- for shallow dof on APS-C, you really want f/2.8 or faster (or a tele lens).  An APS-C lens like Canon's 17-55 or Tamron/Sigma's versions is a good bet (as is a prime of course)

Just my opinion -- if you're using a crop, skip full frame normal to wide zooms (get 17-55, Sigma/Tamron equivalent, or 15-85 instead) -- you pay for full frame coverage at 24mm (both in price and weight) but don't get a wide angle lens.

648
EOS Bodies / Re: 60D or Wait?
« on: October 16, 2011, 01:56:36 AM »
Prepare to lose many of the shooting opportunities open to you with the camcorder as the 60D and EOS lenses are mostly suited to stationary angles, and not situations with a changing focus point.

Yes, absolutely. I picked up a 5D Mark II recently but held onto my budget camcorder for that reason. It obviously can't out-5D the 5D, but it can do some things very well that the 5D can't (e.g. stay focused on a kid running across a football field without needing a large lens or support gear)

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Nikon might be worth looking at here, since they have continuous AF during video / live view now, IIRC.

Good point. For other brands, Sony are also worth a look (continuous phase detect autofocus in video for the SLT models). I can't remember where the Panasonic  GH2 fits in, but it's worth a look too.

649
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D mk ll details
« on: October 16, 2011, 01:52:14 AM »
As everyone is waiting to purchase the 5D mk lll, I am currently finding myself waiting for the price drop on the 5D mk ll due to the mk lll release. Just a few questions...

1) Based on previous EOS models, would the price drop of the 5D mk ll be significant (more than the current $100 rebate)?
2) Would the release of the mk lll cause the mk ll to be difficult to get a new copy of?
3) How shortly after the release of the mk lll would the production of the mk ll cease?

Of course it is difficult to get solid answers before the release of the 5D mk lll, but I am just wondering peoples thoughts on this subject as I know I am not the only individual waiting to go full-frame.

I'm in the "don't wait" camp. What are you waiting for ? A camera that does not yet exist, whose presumed manufacturer has yet to announce that one will exist ?

5D Mark II prices might take a small hit when the successor is released (whenever that is). Consider the value of a rental from today to the as yet unknown date at which this unknown discount appears, and it seems there's a case to be made that use of the camera for 6 months or so is worth more than the $100- or so discount you might get by waiting.

If you're really concerned about taking a hit on value, buy a used 5D classic now, and sell it some time in the future for approximately what you bought it for.

650
Canon General / Re: Photography kit getting more expensive...
« on: October 15, 2011, 11:14:44 PM »
Since prices have not went up that much in US dollars, doesn't it mean that equipment costs less (in Japanese Yen)?  We are getting bargain prices in the USA because Canon hedges currency by having large investments in US dollars.

Yes, the yen-denominated price of equipment sold in the US is lower.

Brick and mortar prices on shelves lag FX movements by a surprisingly long time. Canon HQ have to decide to adjust prices, then the retailers follow. Canon might be cautious about passing on FX moves to consumers immediately, because they don't want to squash their sales.  Also, some of the costs of distribution are US dollar denominated (e.g. cost of running a US based retail operation).

Most $US denominated investments won't do well for them when the $USD goes down against the Yen.

651
EOS Bodies / Re: The New EOS [CR3]
« on: October 15, 2011, 10:50:17 PM »
Also, what is with people on this forum? My karma keeps going down. I have never flamed a single member of this board. I've been a follower since day one, before Craig had his spat with Canon over logo and design. Every time he disbanded the comments and renewed them I would be one of the first to sign back up. I appreciate what he does, I do. I just think that Canon is a very tight lipped company and it means much less entertainment re: speculation than say the micro 4/3 companies or Sony.

There are some flaws with the "karma" system. There is one website I frequent that does the karma thing quite well (partly because they had some very committed trolls and therefore needed a robust system). The website is slashdot.org. Some of the more useful features are:

(1) It is made explicit that you don't score a poster, you score their post.
(2) Each post starts at +1 for someone who's logged in, 0 for anonymous posters, and +2 for posters who have accumulated karms.
(3) score on the post is the sum of the moderators actions. Post can't go below -1 or +5. This means that you don't get someone being kicked to the kerb for one bad post (because once 3 mods hit your starting score of -2, the post is at -1 and can't go lower). The asymmetry (that is, the fact that you start closer to the bottom of the scale than the top) discourages negative moderation. The fact that it's cumulative prevents the mods from hitting the same post repeatedly.
(4) you only get to be a moderator once your karma reaches a certain level

I think they might also have an additional rule for preventing moderators from moderating and posting in the same thread. It's too bad similar functionality is not available on most of the other web boards I visit -- these features have been deployed on busy websites for a good 10 years or so, it's not as if they're brand new.

652
Lenses / Re: Canon 135 f2
« on: October 14, 2011, 09:27:33 PM »
I would love to get the 85 1.2 but it's out of my price range.   

What about the Sigma 85mm 1.4 ? Price is similar to the 135L, so it won't break the bank. It's a good portrait focal length both for the crop and full frame.

653
Lenses / Re: Refurb lens worth the savings?
« on: October 14, 2011, 09:18:23 PM »
In the world we leave in we have to look at every option for saving money.  In my search I'm checking out refurbs lens, mainly l series lens.  My main two lens I'm looking at are the 24-70 2.8 and 50mm 1.2 (or 1.4). Has anyone purchased these refurb lens and what are your experiences? I know that canon only gives a 90 day warr. compared to a year, but I could save myself about  $500 on between a 24-70 and 50 1.2. Let me know what you all think..thanks so much.

I got a refurb 5D Mark II and a refurbed lens -- the 35 f/2 around the tsunami, everyone except the refurb store was selling them well above the standard list price.

The camera had just under 1000 clicks on it, and looked brand new. Besides the box (they ship in a refurb box), I couldn't tell the lens from brand new.

The prices for the better quality refurb lenses on Canon's website are lower than street prices on used items. This is why quality items sell out very quickly there. So the opinion of the market is that the items you are looking for are a bargain at those prices.

Another place I have hunted for bargains is lensrentals used site. Because it's rental gear, it is not going to be almost new. However, it is sold at a good price (price after shipping and taxes is much lower than Canon's price) and it has the advantage that the seller knows their stuff and does a careful inspection of the gear, so you know what you're buying.

The only downside with these options is that it might make it harder to sell the item, because you don't have a "new" box. This is probably a non issue if you're planning to hang onto it for a year or more.

654
EOS Bodies / Re: 60D or Wait?
« on: October 11, 2011, 07:01:23 AM »
Hoping for a new sub $2500 body announced soon.

A new full frame body probably won't be sub $2500, but the 5D Mk II will probably come down a little when the next body comes.

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New Vs. Used
I will probably by new.  I am not opposed to used if the seller is local and the price is right.  Canon gear seems to hold its value so well that used prices are usually within 5 - 15% of new prices.  If the camera was greater than 30% off then I would go used.

Refurbs on Canon's website are 20% off the new price, but then you pay taxes and shipping. 30% off is quite a bit below street prices for used gear -- the problem is that a reputable seller with a good track record is also well enough informed not to price there. So that leaves you with craigslist or similar.

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30mm vs 50mm
I am also looking to get a good prime lens to start with.  I have been looking at the canon 50mm f/1.4 but also considering a sigma 30mm (I think this is users have rated highly) due to the crop factor.  Is the sigma a good way to go?  Is it a good lens?  would you go 30mm or 50mm as your only prime on a crop body camera?

It depends on what you're planning to do with your prime. If your setup is general purpose zoom and a portrait prime, then take the 50mm. But it seems that you want a general purpose prime, so 30mm is a better choice. The Canon 35mm f/2 delivers excellent image quality so it's also worth a look.

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Telephoto Zoom Lens
In addition to a prime lens I would also want to get a nice zoom.  Any suggestions if you could only get one zoom?

If you want a tele zoom, it's a no brainer -- Canon make four different 70-200mm lenses, all of which get excellent reviews. You can't go wrong with any of them.

655
EOS Bodies / Re: 60D or Wait?
« on: October 11, 2011, 06:45:51 AM »
Thanks again guys... how about purchasing new vs. used?  Thoughts.  I am skeptical about purchasing high-end electronics from private sellers...thoughts?

fredmiranda's buy/sell forum has a good set of listings at reasonable prices and a feedback system. If you pay via paypal (not the "gift" option), you have some recourse if the seller doesn't ship you anything.

656
EOS Bodies / Re: 60D or Wait?
« on: October 08, 2011, 05:50:43 PM »
Thanks all!

For the confusion, I am coming from an HF-S20 camcorder and disliked its inability to provide a cinematic quality DOF.  The film shot with DSLRs are becoming popular and have made it to big-budget movies and TV production.

I would like to spend (with tax) under 2,000.  I am a novice and already feel I am investing a lot of money into a passion/hobby.

I am teacher who would like to take "stunning" footage for personal and professional (teaching) use.  Capturing the protests for Occupy Wall St. was a big thing for me and I used my HF-S20 but if you look at how it compares to the DSLR footage of the protests it pales in comparison.

Having said that...

I need:

1. D60 body
2. 50mm F/1.4

OPTIONS:

1. another lens
2. a rode mic to mount on top for interview purposes and better audio
3. not sure...

Any further thoughts?

The 50mm f/1.4 is a great portrait lens on an APS-C body, but you won't want it to be your only lens. If you get your camera with one of the kit lenses, you should be fine.

One lens option that is a little wider is the Samyang 35mm f/1.4. Its image quality is reputedly superb, the only downside is that it's manual focus but that may not be such a big deal if you're using it for video (you don't have continuous autofocus in video)

While I haven't done any serious video work with my SLRs I've looked into it and read up on the topic. The predominant recurring themes are, stabilizing the camera (a tripod already mentioned is an inexpensive and effective way to do this) and getting the microphone away from the camera body internals if you want good audio.

I'd be inclined to keep the camcorder. I recently got a 5D mark II and will still keep my budget camcorder. There are some things a cheap camcorder does really well that a DSLR struggles with -- such as staying focused on a moving target.

657
Canon General / Re: Photography - Equipment or Skill ?
« on: October 02, 2011, 12:57:20 PM »
We spend allot of time here comparing equipment and extensively analyzing the pros and cons of bodies, lenses, etc.

However - many people say, that the real ingredient for producing special pictures - is the skill of the photographer. Many all time famous monumental photographs where taken black and white with "simple" equipment. The special part of those photos is often the content and meaning of the picture - much less the "sharpness" or other tech features.

How important is our equipment ? Would you agree that it more like 85% skill and 15% equipment ?

My take on it as an amateur photographer is that having usable equipment is essential -- for example you can't take pictures without a camera ! However, the main thing more expensive equipment buys you is convenience, not necessarily better quality.

An example of needing usable equipment -- my move to SLRs was motivated by very unsuccessful attempts to take indoor portraits with a point and shoot. The camera had no manual focus and had a lot of trouble auto-focusing in that light. Under the same conditions, an inexpensive manual focus film SLR would have worked admirably.

These days, one can pick up a pro autofocus film body like the EOS 3 for the price of a mid range point and shoot. This camera has weather sealing, 45 autofocus points, 7fps with battery grip (4 without) and an eye tracking AF system, E-TTL flash, and spot metering.

So having equipment  is essential but once you have an appropriate setup, you won't get better returns in terms of quality for your dollar. However, you might get more in terms of convenience or quantity. For a pro, being able to crank out more of the same in less time (more quantity and more convenience) is good for business. Few amateurs suffer from not being able to take enough pictures ! The amateur doesn't have to photograph everything -- they always have the option of saying "the lighting is no good" and putting away the camera, but this approach won't work very well for you if you are the paid wedding photographer. So for the enthusiast, an expensive DSLR is really more about convenience than better results.

658
Canon General / Re: The age old lens question...50mm vs 85mm
« on: October 02, 2011, 12:32:27 PM »

I shoot mainly low light, indoor concerts. I own both the Canon 50mm F/1.4 and the Canon 85mm F/1.8 but I tend to favor the 50mm because I am able to use the flash less with it mounted vs the 85mm. The focal length does not matter for me, as my ability to get closer to the subject is adjustable. I only shoot with primes.

Moving closer to the subject with a normal lens won't give you the same picture as a short tele further from the subject. The wider fov will force you to be more careful about the composition of the background. On a crop, both of these lenses are short to medium telephotos -- ideal portrait focal lengths. On full frame, 50mm isn't really a portrait focal length any more.

Do you use a 35 or 28 on your crop at all ?

659
PowerShot Cameras / Re: Low light compact for £250
« on: October 01, 2011, 03:48:26 PM »
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I don't think there's a camera available with as wide a lens choice as the NEX, there seems to be an adaptor for every system that's ever been made, including Canons old FD mount.

The micro 4/3 system also has a pretty comprehensive selection of adapters. The problem with adapted lenses is that autofocus either works poorly or doesn't work at all. Also, if you're after a very compact setup, an adapted 35mm full frame lens isn't a good choice.

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As a camera for someone who wants a compact though I don't think a user would be that interested in changing lenses, would they?

I agree --  it would be enough if they could come up with just one  good general purpose lens.


660
EOS Bodies / Re: Shooting in manual
« on: October 01, 2011, 03:02:42 PM »
Lots of good responses, much appreciated. 

Seems to be the most common situations are either; while using a flash, for consistency when shooting in a fixed environment, or when you have a background consisting of a mix of highlights and shadows that might fool the metering system.

I wouldn't say that I'm afraid of using "M", but since I didn't start off using it, its more time consuming for me to get to the proper exposure than either in "Av" or "Tv".  I was really trying to find a reason to use it more than anything, so I'll pay attention to whenever I come across these situations in the future.

It gets faster with practice. Start with the right aperture (or shutter speed). You probably already know what an appropriate ISO is. Tap the shutter button to get a meter reading. The +- exposure scale on the bottom of the viewfinder (and the LCD) will tell you if you're over or under exposed, and will change as you turn the shutter/aperture dials. With a bit of practice as long as your exposure is in the right ballpark to begin with (e.g. within a few stops), you can dial the right exposure in a couple of seconds.

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It also came to mind that when using a zoom, which I typically do, using AE lock can can solve the problem of the "confusing" backgrounds, by zooming on the subject and locking the exposure, then zooming out and recomposing the shot (if you don't have a moving subject and can zoom enough to frame the subject only).  Obviously this may be difficult/impossible when using a prime without the luxury of framing the subject to expose it properly. 

Well yes and no. Using AE lock works well for some scenarios. However, having a zoom doesn't buy you as much as you might think -- partly because someone who uses fast primes is likely to also use spot metering (so they can "meter and recompose") and can also "zoom in with their feet". So the prime user can also use the AE lock trick.

A limitation of the AE trick is that if you do this and want to take another photo, you have to do your AE lock trick all over. If you're the guy taking boxing shots, or a night time street photographer, this approach is just a non starter -- you will spend so much time fighting the cameras metering system that you will miss your shots. If you are shooting with manual exposure, you can set the right exposure and the camera will not mess with it on your next shot. The boxing guy for example can probably meter once and use that exposure for the next several shots -- as long as the lighting in the ring is fairly constant, he doesn't need to take a separate meter reading for every shot. He has plenty of time to do the initial metering, but when it's time to capture the decisive moment, he wants to hit the shutter, not the AE lock.


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