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Messages - RAKAMRAK

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61
Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
« on: October 01, 2013, 02:39:40 AM »
Keep the nifty-fifty alive.  :)  However, if they update this to 50mm F1.8 IS, I'll be thoroughly thrilled.  We need IS!!!  Sometimes it's the difference between getting ambient lights without getting your picture too noisy and not.



Very true..... unfortunately some would not agree, but IS is very important.....

62
Lenses / Re: Tanzania with minimal gear
« on: September 29, 2013, 11:15:58 AM »
Ok, given the fact that you have a real constraint here (one duffel bag) I think long telephoto is out of question. But still some times you may want to shoot the thing at a distance. So it would be better to know what would be your photography objects. Without knowing all these my general suggestion would be

If you are shooting with crop then get
Canon EF-S 15-85mm
On top of that if you have space get the 70-300mm L.

And a super zoom p&S.

For a full frame get
Canon EF-S 24-105
On top of that if you have space get the 70-300mm L

and a super zoom p&S

(All these suggestions are based on the real constraint you have, if there is no constraint we could probably bring the entire EF lens line up with us)

63
Lenses / Re: Lens suggestions for T3i please!
« on: September 28, 2013, 10:51:40 PM »
@OP, get the 17-55 mm f/2.8. I read your first post and given your requirements this is the best lens that you can get. If you wanted the best walkaround lens for your current camera I would suggest the 15-85. Get the lens that best suits the camera that you have right now, not for the camera that you may or may not have in 3 years from now. I have tried to use lenses longer than 50 mm - outside they are fantastic, but inside the house/room they are useless - just too long.

If I was confident about the quality then I would suggest you to get the new Sigma 17-70mm (to get the relative best of both worlds). But have not used this lens myself, and do not know what its optical quality is.

64
Canon General / Re: good idea
« on: September 28, 2013, 01:24:20 AM »
There are a number of patents from many camera companies for interchangeable sensors, but so far, the idea has been impractical simply because new technology requires additional connections and electronic speeds that were not foreseen two or three years earlier, and getting tied to out of date technology isn't something engineers want to do.
 
Right now, many sensors are switching to 8 channel readouts, what will be have in 3 years?  12, 14, or 16 channel, and what speeds?  The motherboard and processor tie you down to todays technology pretty well.  It also ties down any improvements in autofocus, video, or nr among other things.
 
Its not really such a good idea when you think about how much it shackles you to obsolete technology..
 
Its hard to believe that we will see practical interchangeable sensors unless its just for easy replacement of a damaged part.

That is true with the presumption that the user is going to put a "newer" sensor in a "older" body. But no one tries to use a quad core processor with a motherboard that is for Pentium 4. When quad (or hexa) cores came we had to change our mother boards. But there are different versions of the quad cores that can be fitted on the same mother board that can fit all of them. Computer technology did not get stalled for that. Like that we shall be having multiple sensors for the same body. When the next body comes if that does not fit the sensor I have I will have to upgrade (as I do with computers) - sell this body and sensors as instead of just selling the body and buy the new sets.

That is I am thinking of a situation where there are several concurrent sensors for the same body? Like say interchanging an "without AA filter" sensor with an "with AA filter" sensor (something like D800 and D800E in the same body). Like the different digital backs for the same camera - I think some medium format cameras do that, do not they?

Of course my opinion is based on my very rudimentary understanding of electronics.

65
Landscape / Re: North Carolina, USA, Rural Area
« on: September 27, 2013, 07:07:23 PM »
I like the composition of the first photo.... but there is something going on there in this photo. The sky looks kind of abnormally blue, that is still alright. However, the threes have highly different exposures. The tree on the right is dark, while the one in the middle behind the barn is lighter, then the parts of the trees above the barn is dark again. Did you use a hard edge graduated ND filter or the ND feature of LR?

66
Canon EF Prime Lenses / Re: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
« on: September 24, 2013, 02:53:15 PM »
One from me.....

67
Do the opposite...... the standard zoom on the full frame and the tele zoom on the crop. You will miss the FOV between 70mm to 110mm (approx), but do you think you absolutely need that? Now you have pretty wide wide angle for groupshots, and pretty long range tele for all the distance shots (the actual ceremony etc). Of course what you will miss is some quality bokeh on the tele shots. But with all the fine lenses that you have you will be changing lenses quite a few times, so that is a given.

The other suggestion that you will probably get  pretty soon is get another full frame body - use two full frames for the weddings because that is the way to go.

68
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 21, 2013, 04:14:14 AM »
ok now im really confused!



Do not be, set your lens to f/8 - f/11 (whatever your heat desire), focus on whatever you want, and set the camera on tripod. With f/8-f/11 you will need tripod. and fire away.

69
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 21, 2013, 04:09:05 AM »
Experimentation is great.  ...  My solution was to develop a set of DOF equations and use them to program a programmable calculator which lives in my camera bag.  So when I encounter a situation that requires special attention to achieving sharp focus on critical elements in the scene I can enter the data into the calculator and get an answer in the blink of an eye.  It works great!  ....Or you can just set your lens to f/8 and have fun shooting.  Most of your landscape pictures will probably turn out just fine.

It might be daunting to some to program their own equations (at least it seems that way to me). But it is definitely a fine way to go if you can do that, otherwise, if you have a smart phone (whether android based or apple's) there are lots of free DOF calculator programs/apps available out there to do the same thing.

f/8 and be there is also a wonderful time tested method.

70
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 20, 2013, 09:07:31 AM »
The OP mentioned HFD and in my replies I kept on keeping it in the discussion (although I myself never use it as I cannot remember what the HFD for any of my lenses at any aperture size). So I stop down to f/7.1 or f/8 and focus on the subject that I want to be sharpest. Then whatever sharpness I get is acceptable to me. I thought if I could use HFD all the time then I would get even more sharpness, but that does not appear to be the case.

I found this nice article on NorthLight..... it might be interesting to many of us here.

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/hyperfocal_distance.html

71
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 19, 2013, 09:35:47 PM »
as far I understand lens sweet spot is between f/5.6 to f/8 (may be f/9) while DLA (defraction limited aperture) is dependent on the camera body (the sensor) that you are using. So if your aim is the sharpest landscape possible, then first choose aperture (subject to lens sweet spot and sensor of your camera) - let's say you choose f/8. Then calculate the hyperfocal distance for the focal length you are using (28mm you mentioned) and f/8 (hyperfocal distance is dependent on focal length AND aperture) and focus at that hyperfocal distance (keeping the camera on tripod or some fixed base).

72
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 19, 2013, 07:06:40 PM »
However, once the hyperfocal distance is correctly used (as the OP says he/she does) DoF is effectively infinite behind the focal point....... so DLA becomes the only constraining factor.

73
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 19, 2013, 04:57:13 PM »
hi , can someone explain the theory behind choosing the aperture when shooting big landscapes.

i can understand it when shooting portraits or street stuff, for example, focal depth, to get a faster shutter etc


thanks

Well, exactly for the same reason - depth of (focal) field. In portrait you choose wider aperture to minimize depth of field, in landscape you choose narrowest aperture (without going into the defraction limit territory) to maximize the depth of field. Choosing the correct hyperfocal distance to focus just adds to that. Also remember that with changing aperture, the hyperfocal distance changes for each focal length. What aperture to choose for landscape? If you want the maximus possible sharpness in your composition use the list in the following page so that you do not suffer from the negatives of the defraction limited aperture (last column)

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Field-of-View-Crop-Factor.aspx


74
Black & White / Re: A Light Read (EDIT)
« on: September 19, 2013, 05:53:07 AM »
I seem to be the only one, but I disagree that centered = balanced.  I love the lighting and B&W choice and I think the white space adds positively to the minimalism.  Personally, I might even add more white space (black) to the right until the guy's head is at the 1/3 length, before I'd choose to crop it in.  For me, more white space adds to the dark, immersed feel and would make the photo feel less staged IMO

I agree with the knee brightness seeming a little high, that was the first thing that caught my eye.

Since I was one of the early commentators to this post who opined negatively about the black empty space to the right of the subject (the current version of the photo no longer has that) so I thought a clarification would be in order. I do not think that "centered = balanced". But I definitely think in the current composition with just the subject in the far left of the frame without anything other than dark emptiness to the right  made it look unbalanced to me. There are numerous occasions when such a composition (subject on one side of the frame and emptiness on the other) may create a strong story but this situation did not look like that to me. Rule of the third is also a nice thumb rule to go to but there also we need something on the opposite vertex to balance it.

75
Software & Accessories / Re: Opteka MCH-25 Multi Carrier
« on: September 17, 2013, 08:44:26 AM »
It looks like a cotton carrier clone. Have not used it, so do not know how it will be. But for the use that you have mentioned have you thought about "capture clip"? It is definitely substantially more costly than the Opteka system, But the positive side you do not need to carry any extra harness for the capture clip system, your trekking/trailing backpack strap can second for that. I have used the capture clip system and I like it.

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