September 20, 2014, 10:29:57 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RAKAMRAK

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 20
76
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 6D + 24-105 L combo not that great?
« on: September 16, 2013, 09:51:41 PM »
Yes, to my eyes also it lacks sharpness. Though I do not know where exactly the focus point was or whether you focused or recomposed but still there is no place in the photo where once I go for 100% crop that looks tack sharp. There was some problem with lens IMO (back focus, or front focus or something of that sort).

77
Street & City / Re: Dubai
« on: September 16, 2013, 02:05:15 PM »
I like the shortened perspective of "burg.jpg"........

78
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 6D + 24-105 L combo not that great?
« on: September 16, 2013, 01:55:40 PM »
Not sure where you got the idea that people say 24-105 is bad, but hopefully you were not expecting 24-70 MKII quality from it, right?

But f/8 ... my copy of the 24-105 is extremely sharp at f/8 and narrower ... but then when you compare to the 24-70 II, sharpness isn't everything.

Exactly right @J.R., that is why I said "quality"..... some would say there is the "look" of the image, some would say "feel" of the image .... but anyway I think we can club them all together into "quality".

And to add one more think for OP, with f/8-f/11 aperture the shutter speed becomes even more critical (than wider apertures).

79
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 6D + 24-105 L combo not that great?
« on: September 16, 2013, 12:32:22 PM »
What is good shutter speed? You say you used center focus point, but it was a "race" type thing, so did you use AI Servo or One Shot AF? And without looking at some of the photos that you think were not good enough it is difficult to give any opinion in the air. I have never used 6D, but I have rented 24-105 from my local renting place, and it has not disappointed me. Not sure where you got the idea that people say 24-105 is bad, but hopefully you were not expecting 24-70 MKII quality from it, right?

80
Software & Accessories / Re: Macro Photography
« on: September 16, 2013, 02:45:36 AM »
Mr. Surapon, thank you so much for taking the time and effort to share your set up. Happy photographing.

81
Software & Accessories / Re: Macro Photography
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:05:37 PM »
Mr. Surapon, nice photos. Since you have already offered, so could I please take you up on your offer of sharing your DIY Macro set up? Thank you. (To start I am happy to show off my own DIY macro set up, please see it in my Flickr page)

82
Black & White / Re: A Light Read
« on: September 15, 2013, 12:00:08 PM »
After knowing that it is not a staged photo, not a studio photo I like it even more. Rather now I admire the light and shade of the photo (the unnecessary right side notwithstanding).

83
Software & Accessories / Re: Macro Photography
« on: September 15, 2013, 08:41:59 AM »
Depending on your patience you can start with something simple and cheap. Get some extension tubes (metal preferably) which costs around $10 (in USA). Plus get some old manual lenses from any manufacturer (canon, nikon, pentax etc) which has a aperture ring to control the aperture plus an adapter (without corrective optics) to put that lens on the extension tube (will be "manufacturer of the lens/mount of the lens" to EF adapter). The lens focal length should be around 50 or less. This lens should cost around $100 and the adapter another $10. This way you keep your initial cost under control. Then with your tripod and focusing rail try out your new macro set up. Remember couple of things

1. You will need plenty of lights (flash required most of the times).
2. You will always need to stop down that is why the need of the aperture ring.
3. The macro lens that you "building" this way (lens + adapter + tubes) will not be "flat-field".
4. The subject to lens front distance will be around 6 inches (so bug eye macro will be out of question).

Feel free to check my flickr account there are couple of macro photos that I took this way before I understood I really like macro.

But this way at a lower cost you can test the waters and see if you really like macro or not. If you find you really like macro then you can go ahead and buy true "flat-field" macro lenses where your choices are plentiful depending on your budget - 50mm(Canon), 60mm(Canon and Tamron), 70mm (Sigma), 90mm (Tamron), 100mm (Canon), 105mm (Sigma), 150mm (Sigma), 180mm (Sigma, Canon, Tamron). But remember one thing the longer the focal length of the macro lens the more distance you will have between front of lens and your subject. So for bugs and stuff the longer (and hence costlier) macro lenses are more suitable - 150 mm or 180mm. All macro lenses are great and sharp and all of them can be used as non-macro telephoto primes as well.

84
Landscape / Re: Milky Way near the moon?
« on: September 15, 2013, 07:26:06 AM »
with moon in the sky that also close to the milky way I highly doubt you (or your camera) can even see the milky way. Check milky way photos (or star trail) on the net, hardly any of them has the moon in them.

85
Black & White / Re: A Light Read
« on: September 15, 2013, 06:26:26 AM »
OP, your photo reminds me of renaissance painting style and I like it (Staged or not). Except that there is too much black space on the right side which results in a loss of balance. I would either crop it out or while taking the pic would keep a table with something on it lit with a reflector from the right side.

86
Lighting / Re: Lighting large groups, help needed!
« on: September 13, 2013, 10:11:49 AM »


Adebrophy - hmmm finding a room with a window in a Japanese office might be difficult!  :P
(This might not give you "professional" arty portraits, but will give properly exposed headshots; however it is so stupid lighting that you may not even think it is worth it)

Ok, can you find an inside corner of two white walls?  Then stand kind of at the vortex of the two white walls such that the two walls are behind you (imagine standing in the middle of "V") Ask your subject to stand at the open end of that "V", mount the speedlight on your camera but facing backwards towards the corner and fire. The results always pleases me for simple headshots.

Another good headshot lighting is available in hallways (not too wide and with white walls). Put the speedlight off camera facing one of the walls (right or left) Now depending on where you make your subject stand you can get differential lighting on both sides of the face. You may also use two speedlights hitting both the walls and get more even (or by chaning power of the flashes differential) lighting on both sides of the flash. For the headshots I will always go for bounced light (assuming that you do not have softbox or any such contraption). And if possible get some large white chart paper (may be called art paper or cartridge paper in your country). You can probably pin or tape them on any wall or glass window or partition or even white board and use them as reflector for any of the above lighting set ups.

Also pay attention to how you are asking your subjects to pose for the headshots. Do not let them stand as if you are taking passport photos. Make them stand side ways facing you. They may rest their hands on something, brace themselves tightly or looses.... different poses with similar lighting will also give you different results.

87
Lighting / Re: Lighting large groups, help needed!
« on: September 13, 2013, 04:59:22 AM »
...... I use 2 cheap light stands (bought from Amazon) to hold whiteboards and I bounce the light off of them ... it is not the perfect setup but it does a decent job of illuminating all the people in the pic ...

I think that is brilliant. I have been thinking of that for long, but could not figure out how to fix the white board on the lightstands and then where to fix the speedlights. Rienzphotoz could you please some info about that if that is possible? Thank you.....

88
Lighting / Re: Lighting large groups, help needed!
« on: September 13, 2013, 04:31:53 AM »
My plan would be something like this

89
Lenses / Re: Supertele + drop-in cpl
« on: September 13, 2013, 04:03:09 AM »
You can use something like this on your belt (I am not intending to advertise this particular piece or shop, just I bought this a few months back and found the link easily)......

http://www.adorama.com/GBSFP46.html

Thanks, I have one like that, mine folds and folds, I like it a lot, but I'll try to find something for my strap for just that one filter.

Sorry, you need for just one filter, then get a fishbomb..... no I am not kidding search FishBomb ...

90
Lighting / Re: Lighting large groups, help needed!
« on: September 13, 2013, 04:00:15 AM »
Hmm, it looks like you cannot rent anything (I am assuming from whatever you have written till now) and coming from a country which is not USA I understand that. Not all countries have such extensive gear renting opportunities like US. But with 30 people standing (and sitting may be) you will need to figure out some way to put one flash to the right of the group (hitting the right side of the group) and another on the left and the third one from top of your camera. So you will need some sort of posts or walls towards your right and left (you can use something like gaffers tape or strong cloth tapes to do that). you may also want to put two of your speedlights at the back of the group facing the back wall slightly uppishly to give some light to the background and to make the group of employees standout from the background. I am assuming you have someway of remotely triggering the four flashes that are not on the camera.

For the headshots go to the strobist website, they have a nice article on headshots in office spaces with speedlights. They may also have something on group shot.

Pages: 1 ... 4 5 [6] 7 8 ... 20