October 25, 2014, 01:36:24 PM

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Messages - Halfrack

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I just did SFO-Fort Bragg and back - lots of driving and it is mighty dry.  I'd plan a night or two in SFO, lots of options, but also lots to see.  I would skip Point Reyes unless you're a diehard lighthouse fan.  There's a whole lot of nothing between Reyes and Mendocino.

You didn't say what you like to shoot, so there are some things you may or may not be interested in.  I mean, the Glass Beach in Fort Bragg is really cool for the right person, but so is Treasure Island and Twin Peaks in San Francisco.  Crater Lake and Kalmath Falls would be on my list, but I'd also circle out to Seaside and Cannon Beach.


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: So what makes a camera a "pro" camera?
« on: October 14, 2014, 07:02:30 PM »
Too many folks here are equating a 'pro camera' with a 'pro photographer'.  A pro photographer can use the tools available to create a great image.  A pro camera is a camera designed with durable components and has a longer R&D cycle compared to a consumer camera.  A pro camera should work in any condition, take a licking and keep on ticking.  A pro photographer can plot their way through a situation and will select gear based on their experience, not based on what is advertised as 'pro'.

IMHO 5D mk3 is a low end pro camera, with a lot of advanced technology, while the 1Dmk4/1Dx are pro cameras.

Hey Harv,

You can get a brand new computer with Windows 7 pre-installed, but you'd have to order it via an online shop (NewEgg or Dell come to mind) unless your local computer store has a copy still.  Setup a 2-port USB kvm switch box between your old machine and your new one, and you should be good.  Do it soon, as Windows 7 will be supported for a while, but hardware companies may not be able to sell it after Windows 10 launches.

Lightroom 5.5 is a boxed product, so your local camera store should have it for you.  That and the newest version of Elements and you'll never pay a monthly fee



You purchased boxed software?  There's a reason all you need is a download link and a key ;)

My only rule is that I'll clean any time she wants to, she's just not allowed to clean without me.

Business of Photography/Videography / Re: 4K, 5K, 6K and Up Video
« on: October 09, 2014, 09:05:15 PM »
Anyone who watches NFL on Fox is already looking at a 4K capture, and it's been going on for a few seasons...


4K video is amazing, and needed for lots of reasons.  Having shot 4K on a GH4, it's going to tattle if your technique isn't perfect.  But the footage is just stunning.  To fake a 1080p HD slider shot by panning across a 4K stream allows you to pick what speed you want to move after the fact.  There are things that you should capture in the highest of quality, because when you look at it 20 years later, it looks soooo much better.  Pull out a VHS tape and watch a home movie from the 80's/90's ... yea, now you see what I mean...

Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: CF Cards Vs SD Cards
« on: October 08, 2014, 09:46:46 PM »
Have it both ways - buy a CF to SD adapter for less than $20 and use SD cards in the CF slot.

The Delkin adapter I have is dog slow - not worth the double touch to swap a card - CF out of slot, SD out of adapter, SD into adapter, adapter into slot.

Nice to see the 7D2 has a SD slot, but at this point I'm so far deep into CF that I can't just switch.  In fact, I counted an hour ago that I've got 176gb of Sandisk CF cards, and 104gb of Transcend/Delkin/Adata that I can't use in my fancy camera.  To make it worse, I've got a camera showing up in the morning and it'll need at least 3x 32gb UHS1 SD cards since it can't take CF...

At least I won't have to empty cards on vacation....  Oh, and never think you're getting a 'deal' on memory cards - buy from a trusted source, or directly from Sandisk - there are too many fakes out there.

Software & Accessories / Re: Need help putting together a ND Filter Kit
« on: October 04, 2014, 09:28:24 PM »
There are a few different kits for the really ultra wide lenses - Hitech and Lee have them as well, but mostly are advertised for the 14-24 Nikon.

For the filter holder, any brand works as 100mm is the 'standard'.  A polarizer is a good 1-2 stops of ND.  So, generally you'd want:

- a 2 or 3 stop solid ND
- a 2-3 stop hard
- a 2-3 stop soft grad
- a reverse grad

I have the Lee 'soft' filter kit (1,2,3 stops) , and I hate that I spent the money - should have gotten just the 2stop hard and soft.

Or just rent and figure it out based off what you use.  http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/video/accessories/filters/4x4/4-x-4-split-nd-filter-kit

Lighting / Re: Can I use all my old Sunpak 522 Flashes with Canon EOS
« on: October 03, 2014, 07:37:17 PM »
And this is why you'd want to use a cheap wireless cactus trigger set - worst case it'd fry a $10 remote, not your camera...

Or grab one of these - http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=227625&gclid=CKzGpp3TkcECFYhefgodX0wAbQ&Q=&is=REG&A=details

EOS Bodies / Re: Can the new 7d mark ii challenge the 1d mark iv?
« on: October 01, 2014, 03:52:23 PM »
Not in the blunt object category - the 1Dmk4 can do more damage in the 'protect yourself from wildlife/protestors/etc' than a 7D mark2

Otherwise, it's more about what you want/need or already have.

Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: October 01, 2014, 12:14:24 PM »
Hyper sync - long duration flash over the entire curtain movement

True high sync speeds - standard sync method but @ above 1/250th. (Which is still the best and most efficient but expensive.)

HSS - pulsed flash over the duration of the curtain movement.

I think you misread my comment, all of these methods are ways of syncing at High speeds, hence HSS but the most true form is the traditional method and the others are a workaround.

There is nothing 'true' or 'high sync speed' when sync'ing above 1/250th or 1/180th or even 1/60th.  HSS is sync'ing multiple bursts over a curtain movement - where the sync is with the slit being exposed is perfectly timed with the speedlites.  Sync'ing with a Leaf shutter doesn't involve multiple bursts.

Sync'ing with a 'slow' strobe or speedlight where your shutter speed is faster than the lights t.1 time is just that, dealing with slow lights.  The issue is that you're not going to get even exposure over the frame, let alone between shots.

Now, with all that said, with the faster studio lights, like Einsteins in the fast mode, or the Bron Move2 packs that'll do a 1/10,000 flash duration, you can 'sync' at 1/125th or even slower, and 'freeze' your subject with light.  Then, all sync'ing at a faster speed does is allow you to kill the ambient light.

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Upgrade Path Dilemma
« on: September 30, 2014, 01:04:14 AM »
Go with #4 - save most the money, keep shooting what you have, take a class or rent an item or to for a week and give it a go. 

Learn more about what you as a shooter want - keep it a hobby, make some coin on the side or...?  You really need to have an 'issue' to fix with gear, otherwise we'll all say spend as much as possible on what ever you can.

Keep in mind that the holidays are coming and that seems to be when we see the lowest prices on new gear, plus lensauthority.com will be doing their annual release of camera gear.

Photography Technique / Re: Can Recommend Ready made website
« on: September 27, 2014, 08:02:33 PM »
You're going about this backwards - what do you need from a site?

- prints from a lab or self fulfillment? Is there a lab in the countries you're dealing with?
- digital downloads or not?
- volume of work to be up online?
- microstock sales?
- do you blog as well, or do you batch based on weddings?

From this, figure out who offers the best thing for you.  I have Smug, but am mixed on it due to file size limitations.  Would Photoshelter be a better match for you?  It comes down to what you need, compared to others.

Lighting / Re: Speedlites - How many are enough?
« on: September 27, 2014, 12:14:58 AM »
This is where the folks at Profoto need to work with Canon a bit more - as in allowing the Profoto Air TTL control the 600ex or the 440ex if we ever see one.  Or a TTL receiver, just a method that they all work together.

The power of a B1 is amazing - and setting up 2 B1's is a lot easier and reliable than doing 2x 3 600ex gangs.

It'll be interesting to see what the Phottix strobes do now...  https://fstoppers.com/gear/phottix-announces-indra500-ttl-500ws-strobe-ttl-and-hss-37521 - especially since it'll play with the Mitros+ and Odin TTL adapters.

Ideally, 2-3 of the 500w/s strobes with 4-6 speedlites on a single trigger

Technical Support / Re: What are the best ND Grads? No circular!
« on: September 26, 2014, 11:31:57 PM »
Easy, the 100mm square ones.  Or the 100x150mm hard or soft grads. 

I've got both the Hitech and the Lee version of the rings and holders - the Lee stuff is more expensive but it's worth it.

Having used both filters, get what you can - Hitech makes a reverse grad - really important for a sunset on an ocean.  I tend to get a color cast with the full ND from Hitech, but haven't put down the money for a Lee version yet.  My soft ND Grad set is a champ though, so a Little Stopper is in my future.

A different speedring and you're in business with a different brand strobe or speedlite. 

The kicker is that a softbox can control light fall off.  Add in a grid and you're even more in control.  There isn't the spill backwards that an umbrella will also have.

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