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Messages - Halfrack

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166
Software & Accessories / Re: Current Monitor Color Checkers
« on: July 01, 2013, 01:35:13 PM »
What is the end result you're looking to use this for?  If you're looking to print inhouse - the ColorMunki is a must since you can profile your printer, monitor and camera.  If you're sending it out, other options are possible, like the newer Spyder or such.

If you're in the states, you can rent the Munki cheap enough.
http://www.lensrentals.com/rent/canon/accessories/calibration/colormunki

167
I have a 1D mkII and it's my loan out camera - works great with the 100-400 when they need the reach.  Purchasing a a mkII/mkIIN at this point wouldn't be a grand idea - spend a few hundred more and get the mkIII .  Yes, the mkIV is much nicer, as is a 5d mk3, but remember, these 1D's double as blunt objects.

IQ wise, you're better with a more recent rebel, but when it comes to weather seals and build, there's a special place in my heart for the 1D.

168
Lenses / Re: The ULTIMATE Canon lens
« on: June 25, 2013, 01:09:23 AM »
No wonder the 200-400 took so long - look at how they've been wasting their talents...

169
Lighting / Re: PocketWizard Noob
« on: June 24, 2013, 02:46:19 PM »
Can I use Yongnuo YN-560 II Speedlights with a 600 ST-E3-RT system?

Nope, TTL accessories only work within a manufacturer, and a technology.  There isn't a 3rd party setup that works with the Canon RF technology.

170
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Medium format
« on: June 23, 2013, 10:46:25 PM »
Thanks a lot, I have contacted a dealer and will have a look at this digital back. The difficult decision is now, do I go for the 500mm/f4. or 600 mm/f4 or do I go for the CFV-50 digital back? Can't afford both right now.

I just did a PhaseOne event with the IQ260 - if the CFV-50 is anything like it, go that route.  Unless you're making money with 400mm+ lenses, the CFV-50 will give you amazing results, in ways you have never seen in a dslr.

171
Software & Accessories / Re: Hdd/SDD storage for trip
« on: June 20, 2013, 06:14:56 PM »
I have heard plenty of horror stories of lost data with the portable hard drive storage devices. Here is a rock solid idea. An inexpensive laptop with a dual layer DVD burner, put your images on the laptop hard drive then backup daily to the DVD’s. Then store the DVD’s in another place.

Hate to shoot this down, but DVD-DL only holds 8.4gb / disk.  Take into account size, the time to spread a 64b card full of raw files across 8-9 disks, you're better off getting more SD/CF cards.

There are lots of similar threads here and other places - most come back to the answer that it's either the HyperDrive like devices or drag along your laptop and external drives.

172
Lots of options, but I'd say unless there's something special in one of the other models, the L-358 is the money spot.  Other models can control your lights from the meter (pocketwizards), but really, the L-358 is all 99% of us need.  I'm curious to see what other folks say, as I haven't played with other brands.

173
Lighting / Re: PocketWizard Noob
« on: June 18, 2013, 06:06:18 PM »
This is more confusing than I thought it would be.

So if I get 2 600 flashes, I can use one to trigger the other? Even if they're both off camera???


You'd use 1 of the 600's on camera (or the ST-E3), with the second one off camera.  The one on camera talks via RF to control the one off camera.  Canon put the IR Master function into a few cameras (60d/7d/??) and there for you could trigger an off camera flash, but that feature wasn't part of the 5dmk3.

If you're looking for a stop gap to have a single flash off camera, get one of the really long eTTL cables like http://ocfgear.com/ sells - yes, it's wired but you have complete control of the flash from your camera body - AND it's good to have a wired backup just in case.  Syl has a number of books that people like specifically on Canon flashes, and a good amount of info on his blog http://pixsylated.com/blog/

The reason we're saying to not purchase the PocketWizards is that if you went the cheapest method possible - a MiniTT1 and a FlexTT5, to add a second 600ex-RT would require yet another FlexTT5.  Where as if you purchased a ST-E3-RT or an additional 600ex-RT, you would save the cost of the PocketWizards, plus the overhead of added, unnecessary gear.

Make sense?

174
Lighting / Re: PocketWizard Noob
« on: June 18, 2013, 03:14:17 AM »
Looking to get a Canon 600ex-rt flash for my 5D3 to use as an off camera light for starters. Plan on adding either more flashes or strobes to my kit in the future.

Save your money and buy a second 600ex or a st-e3 to wirelessly (RF) control your initial 600.  PocketWizards literally were created to do over radio what Canon was trying to do via infrared in the 580ex's (or not at all).  Canon finally got into the RF game with the 600ex and while we're waiting for a cheaper 430ex-style RF flash, folks are buying 600ex'es just to simplify their life.  The 600ex is all that and a big bowl of guacamole.

If you move to bigger strobes, many of them can be set as optical slaves, so you can trigger them from your 600ex.

175
Lighting / Re: PocketWizard Noob
« on: June 17, 2013, 08:11:41 PM »
Are you using on-camera flashes that do TTL or a strobe system that can be controlled remotely?  Yes, you need one PW device for each strobe you want to fire, unless you're plugging the PW into a pack.  Basically there are 2 types of PocketWizard systems:

PlusII/PlusIII/PlusX/MultiMax - these are basic 'fire' commands to a strobe.  You get to adjust each strobe independently of each other, but this can be a pain.  The MultiMax can be setup in zones, and you can turn on and off each zone from the master.  These are best as transceivers, as you can use 1 on camera, and 3 on strobes, or 2 different cameras each controlling their own strobes (if you set them to different channels).

FlexTT/MiniTT - these have transmitter only and transceiver models, and are designed for situations where you're controlling power manually or via eTTL.  The times I've played with them, the MiniTT1 was more of a pain than it's worth, and it was just better to work with all TT5's.  Now the key thing to remember is the AC3 accessory needs a TT1 or TT5 to sit in (this confused me until I played with it).

Depending on the strobes you have, there are additional modules for specific brands, so you may or may not need certain pieces.  Then again, depending on what you're using for flashes, you can also set them do optical slaves, so as when one fires, it triggers the others to blink  (not good when other flashes are going off).

176
Lenses / Re: $1000 .. what to buy
« on: June 17, 2013, 02:30:40 PM »
If Macro is something you're looking at, pick up a used 100mmF2.8 non-L for ~$400.

You don't say if you have any strobes, so spend the rest on a 600EX or a macro lens light setup.

Otherwise the 17-40L is a great lens - especially since you can purchase used and sell it later at the same price point.

177
Software & Accessories / Re: New Macpro teased at Mac Conference
« on: June 11, 2013, 03:47:32 AM »
I think my only issue is that they're teasing these now, and expect folks to be ok with the wait.  Apple historically says here it is, you can buy it tomorrow/next week/next month...  I don't see it being able to hold enough RAM, like 64gb or higher, so you're doing 16gb RAM sticks?  That and AMD does single socket CPU's with 16 cores, so doing 2x 6 core is (fill in here)....

This also kills the ability to rack mount them, as Apple killed the xServe.  It should also help push down the price of thunderbolt options, as we're getting screwed with the huge markup to plug in anything currently.  I still want a 4k Apple Thunderbolt display with a built-in 1-2gb graphics card.

178
set small aperture: yes, but then u risk losing focus of the person surely?

Nope - person in focus too.  Depending on what size sensor - full frame f11 is fine, and on crop f8 is fine.  Auto-focus will be in the middle of the DoF.  So focus looks to be half way between the guy and the white Ford Transit van - so the person is in the front half of the DoF with the ET at the far end of the DoF.

F16 - f22 are all fine, but you'll get softening from diffraction, so be aware of it.

179
Your issue is depth of field - aka your subject is too close to the camera that what's in focus doesn't include infinity (aka the background way far away).

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

http://petapixel.com/2013/04/27/silhouettes-in-a-giant-moonrise-captured-using-a-1200mm-lens/

180
So to answer the original question, both are a solid maybe.  iPhone and Android based light meters can be used for constant lights - stuff you'd use to shoot video.  Light meters that understand what a strobe is are worth their weight in gold, as it allows you to construct a photo, building an image in layers, and lighting each layer independently.

So the next question is if you need a light meter.  Long story short it depends on what you're shooting.   Light meters are used in fine art and portraiture, mostly when using strobes.  If you do this style of photography AND you are doing off camera flash, then it would be a good idea to pick up a light meter.  Otherwise, save your money.

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