August 21, 2014, 12:08:04 PM

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - gn100

Pages: 1 [2]
16
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS M Specs
« on: July 22, 2012, 02:40:06 PM »
How long does it usually take Canon cameras to come to market after they've been officially announced.

With consumer grade equipment, normally very soon after announcement, pro stuff is a different matter ...... I'd expect this to be available very soon

17
EOS Bodies / Re: first pic of canon mirrorless?
« on: July 20, 2012, 06:29:36 AM »
I think this is pretty awesome. Aps-c and a 35mm f/2 FOV in a tiny body.  That's all I need canon! Now if it's 599$ with body and 25mm f/2, I'll buy it at launch but I doubt that price tag knowing canon.

Not sure it is APS-C ....... its an EF-M lens ..... probably the same sensor as the G1X...... so a 1.85 crop factor

18
Lenses / Re: Lensbaby
« on: July 11, 2012, 05:22:00 AM »
@ wickidwombat
I see... Definitely Lensbaby for me, then! Thanks!

@ crasher8
The composer is the "lens body", right? What lens do you use it with?
I'd love to see some of those pics you've been selling! :)


The Composer is the lens.

http://lensbaby.com/lenses-composer

I use it on all my Canon EOS bodies. It is a manual focus lens which comes with a set of steel aperture rings which you swap out with a magnetic tipped tool ranging from 2.0 (no ring) to 22. The wider open, the greater blur.

Some Lensbaby shots on my Smugmug site:

http://www.barryjohnsonphotography.com/EARTH/NATURE-ON-ACID/LENSBABY/23575489_k4XNfD#!i=1907023176&k=jN7VWpT


The lensbody (aka lens) is the Composer / Composer Pro / Muse / Contol Freak etc, then you need to have an optic eg Double Glass / Single Glass / Sweet 35 / Edge 80 etc. Many of the optics require you to use drop in aperature disks, whereas the sweet 35 and edge 80 both have aperture rings.

I have used a Muse with a double glass that I borrowed off a friend - I found it fiddly to use but the composer (pro) look much better. Overall I enjoyed using it - it certainly encouraged me to look at subjects in a different way. I haven't purchased one as I believe that the use is limited, but one day I might

19
EOS Bodies / Re: DSLR itch (60D / D5100 / K-5)
« on: June 21, 2012, 03:04:33 PM »
All options look OK, but regardless of camera, here are my recommendations - start with a kit lens plus a prime. I have a young family and shoot with a 60D + 17-55mm f2.8 - OK, but the lens isn't fast enough for the inside use - yes I get some good images but often have images wecked by distracting backgrounds (always seems to be toys lying around etc!).

I would tend to recommend a Nikon and their 35mm f1.8 - only $200 USD -  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/606792-USA/Nikon_2183_AF_S_Nikkor_35mm_f_1_8G.html. You could then add a more generall purpose zoom, primarily for outside use eg 18-105VR ($400 USD)

If you have the time, I'd attend an evening class (if available in your area) to kick start your use of the camera ..... often a bit of training is worth a lot more than exepnsive equipment

20
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mk III vs D800/E, is the 5D3 better at anything?
« on: June 04, 2012, 03:12:28 PM »
Yep, the 5D Mark III has shitty dynamic range  :P



Great shot of Lake McKenzie ...... awesome part of the world.

Yep, the 5DIII can take decent photos - in almost every case it's the photographer not the camera that holds back the output

21
Hey NWPhil, are you planning on day hikes from Kathmandu/Pokhara or are you going on a trek to Everest or Annapurna base camp?  This will make a huge difference in how you approach this.

Send me some details on your itinerary.

Don't have one yet, per say.
We are going to do our very own itinerary as we go - well, whithin limits, as it will be only me and my wife, aside porters and guide.
The idea is to go from Lukla to Gokyo lakes area, and then cross to EBC, finalizing at start point. Looking at 21 days plus - meaning that, the usual 21 day trek includes about 5-6 days in Kathamandu and Lukla, for aclimatization and tours.
We might add up that to the 21 days of trekking, but not sure yet

see standard hik itinerary below:
Day 01 : Arrive Kathmandu / dinner with cultural program.
Day 02 : Explore Boudhnath and Pashupatinath / Trip preparation.
Day 03 : Fly to Lukla and start Everest trekking.
Day 04-05 : Trekking to Namche / Acclimatization rest day.
Day 06 : Trek to Kumjung.
Day 07-08 : Trekking up the Gokyo Valley and enjoy views of massive Cho Oyu.
Day 09-10 : Climb Gokyo Ri / savour the stunning looks of Mt. Everest and pristine lakes.
Day 11 : Trekking on the moraines of the Ngozumpa Glacier to Thangna.
Day 12-13 : Cross the challenging Chola pass and trek to Lobuche: enjoy the superb beauty of Nature.
Day 14 : Trekking Kala Pathar for views across Khumbu Glacier to Everest.
Day 15 : Exploration to the Everest Base Camp.
Day 16-18 : Trekking down to Lukla to end the Everest circuit trek via Pheriche, Thyangboche.
Day 19 : Himalayan flight back to Kathmandu / Rest day.
Day 20 : Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 21 : Trip ends / Airport transfer.(...)"

Thanks
Phil

After 3 trips to Nepal (and 5 treks in total) here are my comments....

Times of the year - October/November is perfect - you'll probably get no rain - at most a shower or two between Lukla and Namche. Very pleasant through the day, bit chilly at night, especially above 4000m.

Itinerary - Looks a bit tight to me - remember high altitude means altitude sickness if you don't aclimitise .... and if you do aclimitise, then mild discomfort. I'm used to trekking long days (10-14 hours) here in New Zealand, but in Nepal have always taken my time and it has paid big dividends, especially when trying to take half decent photos (I have tried to start by 7:30am and finish my trekking by lunch-time, allowing the afternoon to meet the locals, reading, photography. If you haven't been at altitude immediately before arriving at Lukla, then look to spend 2-3 nights at Namche - do day trips to Thame and Kumjung, allowing the recovery at night at a reasonable altitude (3300m) - it will set you up for the rest of the trip, which you will enjoy more. Also take Diamox as a preventative - I found I have gained about 1 day in terms of acclimitisation schedule. The general recommendation is only gaining 300m altitude per day. Take time early in the trip to aclimitise is the best recommendation I can give. I would suggest ......

day 1 Lukla - Phadking or Mondo
day 2 to Namche
day 3 Namche (day trip to Kumjung)
day 4 Namche (day trip to Thame)
day 5 ......onwards (I think its 3 days from Namche to Gokyo)

Gear - last time (and the only time I was using digital), I carried Canon 350D, 17-85 and 70-300. I left my 10-20 in Kathmandu. The pop up flash was sufficient for the 1-2 flash photos I took. I find that the telephoto can be very useful, more than the ultrawide. Image stabilisation is important - with the lack of oxygen it is much harder to handhold a camera. I took sufficient batteries last time for the whole trip - electricity is very limited / non existant beyond Namche. If I was using full frame, I'd take a 24-105 IS and a 70-300 IS L. A lightweight tripod would be handy, so would a polarising filter. Keep your kit simple, with lack of oxygen at higher altitudes, everything is an effort, so there is a tendency to take the easy option, so lenses rarely get changed, tripods only get used when they have to (I didn't take a tripod on 4 of the 5 treks I have done).

Nepal is a wonderful place, the scenery is spectacular and the people are fantastic - enjoy your trip

22
A full frame camera offers more advantages at the wide angle end of the scale. That said, you really want the 5DIII to be the "go-to" camera, so if the majority of your shooting is on the 70-200, then attaching it to the 5DIII makes sense

I would have thought that the second hand price of the 17-55 would have matched the difference between the 5DIII body and the 5DIII kit. If not waiting a couple of months will probably see the 5D prices fall

23
EOS Bodies / Re: Hugely Disappointed In 5D III Price
« on: March 05, 2012, 03:02:00 PM »
Guys, take a look at this data courtesy of www.camelcamelcamel.com. This shows the price tracking of the EOS 7D after initial announcement in early September 2009 through to today. It shows price maintenance up until a certain point, then a dramatic re-adjustment. Sadly, the EOS 5dII doesn't show the same rapid decline, but what this says to me is that Canon does sometimes get initial prices totally wrong, and is forced to adjust them once initial demand subsides, in this case just a few months after announcement. So my option isn't in the above list, it is "I want an EOS 5D Mark III, and I'm willing to wait...but not forever!"


Another thing to consider is exchange rates - the USD is weaker now than when the 5DII came out. Where I live the 5DII cost NZ $5400 when it came out (that's $4400 US in today's terms). I'm hoping the weaker USD will mean I can buy the 5DIII for a cheaper price than the original 5DII price

24
Software & Accessories / Re: Canon Pixma PRO-1 [CR3]
« on: September 27, 2011, 05:36:01 PM »
Perhaps Canon will start to sell paper in the 3:2 ratio.  They only sell one paper like that now (4x6).  The 13x19 comes close, but 8x12 would be great.  I hate having to crop my prints.

Canon (et al.) really should sell paper sizes that match the aspect ratio of the sensor, it makes no sense at all that they don't.  8x10 if fine for portraits, but for landscapes 8x12 is so superior.

Totally agree! I am also upset they "supposedly" discontinued their 13x19 museum etching paper...that was what sold me on one of their pixma printers! My printer hasn't been in use since, are any of you familiar with substitute brands that make a very similar museum etching paper as the Canon version in the 13x19 size?

Canon Museum Etching is rebranded Hahnemhule Museum Etching paper, so should still be available.

The paper size ratios are different from sensor size raitios, but there is no one type of sensor 4:3, 3:2 and medium format. Most cameras sold have sensors in a 4:3 ratio (micro 4/3 and most compacts). No need to crop if unless you're doing borderless printing - just trimming!

The paper manufacturers are sticking to standard paper sizes - A3 is 297 *420 which is close to the 3:2 ratio, which are designed for documents as its nice and easy to scale for different sizes.  The ISO paper sizes are designed that if you cut them in half they will still be the same ratio ..... A4 has the same ratio as A3 (I often purchase A3 paper as its often only slightly more expensive than A4 and I get 2 A4 sheets)

25
EOS Bodies / Re: More 5dII deals, is it a sign...
« on: September 21, 2011, 03:42:11 PM »
Could be Canon keeping the price low to keep people on the Canon system while they deal with the delays in getting new products to market. They will have recouped their R&D costs on the MKII, so the unit costs of production probably aren't that high.

Pages: 1 [2]