Was curious if anyone has both that can comment on which they think is better. I leaning towards the 35 1.4 since I'm mostly full frame now but a zoom is nice.
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From "The Other YN-622C User Guide" p.10:
Two-Shooter Setup (John UK technique)
A second shooter can share augmenting flashes. There is a problem – preventing the zooming and firing of the other camera’s on-top flash.
• Camera 1 set to E-TTL or Manual, and Firing Group A:B at some ratio/power.
• On-camera 622 set to Remote mode and Group C, with an on-top flash.
• Camera 2 set up the same.
• Enhancing flash stand with remote 622 set to Group B, plus flash.
• When either camera takes a shot, it's on-top flash is treated as Group A, the augmenting flash as Group B, and the other camera as Group C. Group C is not enabled in Firing Group A:B, so does not fire.
I imagined this was for events like weddings, gatherings, one-room meetings. I -- personally -- would have wanted a manual flash lighting the room attached high (best) or on a light stand placed inconspicuously. (I keep a weird set of clamps and hardware for this.) I would not want that level to change, although of course throughout the space its level will be different. Then I would try to have my on-camera strobe act as fill to a light that appeared to be ambient but was actually from that "room-bounce" or "room-direct" unit. Having two people able to use that wrap-around light in a neat idea and I hope you can make it work.
I have been avoiding ETTL. Pure fear, lack of experience, I admit! So I cannot tell you if ETTL is retained with one of these splitters.
So this setup is two senders and two receivers. I use Odin, still learning all its capabilities. I think if I were to do this it would require a separate Odin controller, and I never asked what just a controller costs.
Hope you can find a good solution for your particular needs.
So we understand exactly what you need:
Two photographers with flash on their cameras are depending on a third flash that lights up the area. The issue is the shared channel that will fire the second photographer's flash, and shared status of this third light (not ready/recycled in time to be available when needed.)
Would one more flash -- so background is illuminated by a dedicated speedlight -- fix this problem? Assuming two channels available on Yongnuo... Seems like a reasonable-cost solution as you can go with a simple even manual only unit if bouncing. Yes, you have to find two attachment spots or have two stands. Not OK in some event venues. But way more flexible.
Don't know the Yongnuo triggers' capabilities, sorry.
If you don't mind carrying two lenses, consider getting the 35mm and the canon 70-200mm f/4 IS. Its not too heavy to carry both and you wont miss the coverage from 35mm-70mm. However, with both lenses in your pack, you're good to go for almost anything unless you need a really wide angle.Interesting, I actually shot a couple weddings recently with this setup except instead of the f/4 version it was the 2.8 IS L. I'm going to rent the 24-70 II for my next wedding to see if I like it but if it's not much better I'll probably end up buying the sigma.
Those two lenses are basically my default kit and I love it. Excellent image quality from both and a much better pairing then relying on the 24-105 by itself.
Update on Sigma 35mm. I took it in locally and they saw I was AFMA to +10 and they actually put it at about +15 internally so my camera is spot on and I am at 0 in camera. That makes this lens that much sweeter. Glad I took it in. If you buy a Sigma and it seems off send it in is my advise.Sounds about right. I rented both a 5D mark III and the Sigma 35 and Focal had me set it to either +13 or +17 (can't remember). I was surprised how big a number it was but I did some shots to confirm both at 0 and the setting it recommended and sure enough it was right. I'm leaning towards buying one of these when I've got the money. I rented the 35L last September and would say this lens is at least the same level IQ wise in shots (probably a lot better I'm just not doing test charts or such). Focus seemed slower but I'm attributing that to the 5D Mark III flash assist issue.
HTP increases the DR if you shoot in JPG. It underexposes by 1 stop of ISO, then lies about it in the metadata (that's why ISO 200 becomes the lowest setting - if you shoot at ISO 200 with HTP, the camera actually exposes at ISO 100). That 1-stop underexposure preserves a stop of highlights, the camera then applies a tone curve to boost everything but the highlights by 1 stop (meaning a stop more noise in the shadows).Thanks neuro. I honestly never mess with curves. I've tried messing with it a few times or with the auto settings in DPP but never really liked the results. I normally just use contrast, highlight or blacks to adjust. Anyone have any suggestions on a tutorial for editing curves in DPP?
If you shoot RAW, leave HTP off. You then have latitude to preserve >1-stop of highlights, and can apply your own tone curve.
It can be useful but does have an impact on drive mode frame rates. I can see where it might be more useful with video than with stills. If you do try it for a wedding, be mindful of blowing out highlights. especially if you are used to shooting with it on all the time. It may/will increase your dynamic range.Wow! I've always shot with HTP on. I guess I just assumed it was better for weddings to have it since the bride is (almost) always wearing white. Very interesting. I might have to try shooting next week's wedding with it off for a change.
How large is your card? On a 32GB card I have shoot around 1,000 raw images. Is that enough for a single event. Costs are around $150. Consider that 1,000 images is the equivalent of ~30 rolls of film. Back in the day (ancient history) slides plus processing cost between $10-15/roll. Digital equivalent of a roll of film (36 exposure) is only $5.
Double the card size, you will double the number of images. Are you using the vertical grip? If not, the battery will die before a 64GB card is filled. A 128 GB card will outlast both batteries in the vertical grip.
If you are still worried about filling the card try setting the camera to use automatically switch to the second card once the first is filled.
Yup, using 32GB cards. I switched my first card with about 100 pics left on it and I filled up the second one. We tend to shoot quite a lot (in the 3500-5000 shot range). Not using a vertical grip although I'm curious if it might help me with the 70-200. I tend to use it a lot in portrait orientation and my arm was pretty sore by the end of the ceremony.
I have the vertical grip, and aside from the extra weight and bulk in the bag, I really like it. The vertical shutterbug is a really plus and I like the larger size.
If you shoot 3500-5000 shots, how often do you need to switch batteries? I tend to get 1500 shots / single battery (straight shooting, no viewing, no tracking with a supertelephoto lens).