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Messages - brianleighty

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Lenses / Re: Sigma 35 1.4 vs Sigma 18-35 1.8
« on: August 26, 2013, 09:55:49 PM »
I rented the 35 1.4 a few months back, and it was fantastic.  My rental of the 18-35mm 1.8 comes in today, looking forward to comparing the two.
Bradford any input on how it went. Just curious. I ended up buying the 35 1.4. Haven't gotten to use it too much but got a lot of work coming up in the few months. Got a great deal so I can't complain ($780)

Lenses / Re: Sigma 35 1.4 vs Sigma 18-35 1.8
« on: August 12, 2013, 10:40:22 PM »
I got my 35 f1.4 a few months back and it rarely comes off my camera. I don't have the Sigma 18-35; I do use my Canon 16-35 a fair bit, though mostly only at 16-20. The Sigma 35 is not small, but not too big either. It delivers excellent images and has quickly become my favorite lens.
Thanks for the input. I think the 35 1.4 is more practical for me. I guess I was just looking for an excuse to rent the 18-35 to try it out but the two weddings I've shot with a 35mm prime I've gotten a lot of use out of it. The zoom is nice but it doesn't cover a large range and I can use the 70-200 for that by stepping back some. My minds made up. The 35 1.4 is my next lens. I'd get the 70-200 2.8 is ii but that's currently out of my price range :). I'll just have to keep renting that one.

Lenses / Sigma 35 1.4 vs Sigma 18-35 1.8
« on: August 12, 2013, 08:59:23 PM »
Was curious if anyone has both that can comment on which they think is better. I leaning towards the 35 1.4 since I'm mostly full frame now but a zoom is nice.

Lighting / Re: YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 28, 2013, 07:43:04 PM »
From "The Other YN-622C User Guide" p.10:

Two-Shooter Setup (John UK technique)
A second shooter can share augmenting flashes. There is a problem – preventing the zooming and firing of the other camera’s on-top flash.
•   Camera 1 set to E-TTL or Manual, and Firing Group A:B at some ratio/power.
•   On-camera 622 set to Remote mode and Group C, with an on-top flash.
•   Camera 2 set up the same.
•   Enhancing flash stand with remote 622 set to Group B, plus flash.
•   When either camera takes a shot, it's on-top flash is treated as Group A, the augmenting flash as Group B, and the other camera as Group C. Group C is not enabled in Firing Group A:B, so does not fire.


Awesome!!! I seriously missed that. Thank you sir.

Lighting / Re: YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 19, 2013, 08:34:55 PM »
I imagined this was for events like weddings, gatherings, one-room meetings. I -- personally -- would have wanted a manual flash lighting the room attached high (best) or on a light stand placed inconspicuously. (I keep a weird set of clamps and hardware for this.) I would not want that level to change, although of course throughout the space its level will be different.  Then I would try to have my on-camera strobe act as fill to a light that appeared to be ambient but was actually from that "room-bounce" or "room-direct" unit. Having two people able to use that wrap-around light in a neat idea and I hope you can make it work.

I have been avoiding ETTL. Pure fear, lack of experience, I admit! So I cannot tell you if ETTL is retained with one of these splitters.

So this setup is two senders and two receivers. I use Odin, still learning all its capabilities. I think if I were to do this it would require a separate Odin controller, and I never asked what just a controller costs.

Hope you can find a good solution for your particular needs.

Thanks Jonathan. Yes this is mainly for weddings. The issue obviously is that a chapel can be quite large so unless you can position the "ambient" light far enough away the falloff can be pretty quick and if you can put it far away you're giving up light output and softness in exchange.  I have done something similar to what your describing. Instead of Speedlights I used a Alienbee bounced off the projector screen. It worked pretty well. Only think I might have done different is using two instead of one so I could have one on each side. If you're interested the ceremony shots are were shot this way here:

The main issue I had here was that since it was manual I didn't have ambient light output adjusted automatically and was close to having quite a few of the shots blown out. Hence my interest in checking out doing the same sort of thing but with speedlights.

Lighting / Re: YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 15, 2013, 09:11:30 AM »
So I did some more messing around last night. The closest I've been able to find is doing A:B C and setting the on-camera flash to 8:1 and the other oncamera flash at 1:8. This means it'll obviously still go off but at least it won't be as strong so might be able to make it work. Not perfect but at least a little better than before. Let me know if anybody has a better idea.

Lighting / Re: YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 14, 2013, 11:37:44 PM »
Interesting... I looked into cables to split a while back but everything I read said that TTL would only work if one cable was connected. Regardless... a setup like that would get more pricey as 3 is just the start and if all goes well I may eventually add more which then means I have to have a receiver for each. If there doesn't end up being any way around this then I'll probably end mainly just using these for macro photography like I have for the past several months. It works great for single camera setups but it'd be nice if it could work with multiples as well.

Lighting / Re: YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 14, 2013, 02:30:28 PM »
So we understand exactly what you need:
Two photographers with flash on their cameras are depending on a third flash that lights up the area. The issue is the shared channel that will fire the second photographer's flash, and shared status of this third light (not ready/recycled in time to be available when needed.)

Would one more flash -- so background is illuminated by a dedicated speedlight -- fix this problem? Assuming two channels available on Yongnuo... Seems like a reasonable-cost solution as you can go with a simple even manual only unit if bouncing. Yes, you have to find two attachment spots or have two stands. Not OK in some event venues. But way more flexible.

Don't know the Yongnuo triggers' capabilities, sorry.

Thanks Jonathan, you got it mostly right. Recycle time is part the equation as well but the main thing is the light from the secondary cameras flash messing with the main camera's shot. I have considered just doing off camera and would absolutely love that since it would drop the weight I have to carry by quite a bit but unfortunately I haven't had good results in testing this. It basically boils down to I want two cameras to be able to share a third flash but not have the two camera's flashes affect each other.

Lighting / Re: Flash that will endure over 2000 continuous shots?
« on: June 14, 2013, 12:59:36 PM »
Another option nobody has mentioned. You said you're using the on camera Flash. I assume you're saying that the flash drains the batteries on the camera pretty quick? If the oncamera flash is sufficient for your purposes, what about just getting an adapter to run your camera off of AC power? You still have the flash recycle time but if you're not firing at full power I don't see that being much of an issue.

Lighting / YN-622C multiple on camera flashes
« on: June 14, 2013, 12:51:52 PM »
So I've run into an issue and am not sure if there is any way around this or not. My goal is to have on-camera speedlights with a yn622c in between on each. A third flash will be used to bring up the ambient level of light. The issue I have is if camera A fires, camera B fires its on camera flash which could pose unexpected results. I was hoping there was a channel that was shared by all like on the the cheaper yongnuo triggers but I don't see anything like this. Is this just a limitation of the system or is there something I'm missing? Thanks.

If you don't mind carrying two lenses, consider getting the 35mm and the canon 70-200mm f/4 IS. Its not too heavy to carry both and you wont miss the coverage from 35mm-70mm. However, with both lenses in your pack, you're good to go for almost anything unless you need a really wide angle.

Those two lenses are basically my default kit and I love it. Excellent image quality from both and a much better pairing then relying on the 24-105 by itself.
Interesting, I actually shot a couple weddings recently with this setup except instead of the f/4 version it was the 2.8 IS L. I'm going to rent the 24-70 II for my next wedding to see if I like it but if it's not much better I'll probably end up buying the sigma.

One other huge improvement over the 35L I forgot to mention is the color fringing. MUCH lower.

Update on Sigma 35mm. I took it in locally and they saw I was AFMA to +10 and they actually put it at about +15 internally so my camera is spot on and I am at 0 in camera. That makes this lens that much sweeter. Glad I took it in. If you buy a Sigma and it seems off send it in is my advise.
Sounds about right. I rented both a 5D mark III and the Sigma 35 and Focal had me set it to either +13 or +17 (can't remember). I was surprised how big a number it was but I did some shots to confirm both at 0 and the setting it recommended and sure enough it was right. I'm leaning towards buying one of these when I've got the money. I rented the 35L last September and would say this lens is at least the same level IQ wise in shots (probably a lot better I'm just not doing test charts or such). Focus seemed slower but I'm attributing that to the 5D Mark III flash assist issue.

HTP increases the DR if you shoot in JPG.  It underexposes by 1 stop of ISO, then lies about it in the metadata (that's why ISO 200 becomes the lowest setting - if you shoot at ISO 200 with HTP, the camera actually exposes at ISO 100). That 1-stop underexposure preserves a stop of highlights, the camera then applies a tone curve to boost everything but the highlights by 1 stop (meaning a stop more noise in the shadows).

If you shoot RAW, leave HTP off.  You then have latitude to preserve >1-stop of highlights, and can apply your own tone curve.
Thanks neuro. I honestly never mess with curves. I've tried messing with it a few times or with the auto settings in DPP but never really liked the results. I normally just use contrast, highlight or blacks to adjust. Anyone have any suggestions on a tutorial for editing curves in DPP?

It can be useful but does have an impact on drive mode frame rates.  I can see where it might be more useful with video than with stills.  If you do try it for a wedding, be mindful of blowing out highlights.  especially if you are used to shooting with it on all the time.  :)  It may/will increase your dynamic range.

Wow! I've always shot with HTP on. I guess I just assumed it was better for weddings to have it since the bride is (almost) always wearing white. Very interesting. I might have to try shooting next week's wedding with it off for a change.

What HTP increasing dynamic range? Yeah, I normally don't go over on exposure. I'm normally upping levels even when I'm shooting +2/3-1 stop of compensation. You think it'd be wise to leave one camera with it on and one with off?

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