October 23, 2014, 01:53:05 PM

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Messages - wopbv4

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1
Another one that I just found out.
Eizo Colornavigator does not work properly under yosemite.
I approached the Eizo developers in japan and got the following reply:

There is an issue with Yosemite regarding its ability to output correct tonal gradation.  ColorNavigator adjusts the video gamma correctly, however Yosemite outputs in the equivalent value of 129 and 128 gray scale gradation (rather than 256) which is why you are receiving the error message.  This issue was identified by our engineers in the Yosemite Developer Preview version and was reported to Apple, however has not been addressed.

Please note that this is not an issue with ColorNavigator.  It is an issue with the OS and consequently we do not recommend update to Yosemite which, in its current form, can not be used for colour management applications.

2
as I described before, you will need to download the latest EOS utility version 3.0.1 release date 09/29/2014 from canon usa website. That version works under yosemite

3
Some of the X-Rite software does not work under yosemite e.g X-Rite colormunki photo. X-Rite promises upgrades by mid november.
Canon EOS utility, there is only one version that works = 3.0.1, so you will need to download that version

4
Wide colour gamut? IPS? Matte screen? Unless the answer to all three is "yes", then the answer to the title of this post is "no".

Game, set and match.

Jim

Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite only supports 8bit/color channel (24 bit color). This is absolutely ridiculous as good monitors such as Eizo and Nec support 10 and 12 bit/color channel.

For those that push photoshop to the limit, such as working  on detail in shadows, this results in banding.

A pc with proper graphics card and let's say EIZO CG276 will deliver proper colors. I know that the EIZO is only 2560 pixels

5
Just downloaded latest version eu3.0.1x-installer.dmg and it works on yosemite on my Macbook Pro

6
Please be aware that EOS utility for MAC in the package is the WRONG one to run on Yosemite.
You need to separately download eu3.0.1.x-installer.dmg
By the way this is the ONLY version of EOS utility that works on Yosemite


7
Hi,

I am beta testing the new OSX for Mac: 10.10 Yosemite.

I did a few checks and found that the following software does NOT work:
1) EOS utility. Why am I not surprised? This happened with previous OS X upgrades as well
2) X Rite Colormunki Photo does not install. I reported this and X Rite promised that they are working on an upgrade

I know that a lot of us EOS Utility for tethered shooting, hence the warning

8
Lighting / Re: Canon MR-14EX I vs II?
« on: July 25, 2014, 10:50:05 PM »
A bit of topic, I use the MT-24EX.
The advantage is that you can take each of the two flash heads of the mount and position them anywhere you like on small light stands.
Please be aware that this is NOT an easy flash to operate. First of all, it is not recognised by my 7D or 1DX, so you have to change all the settings on the flash it self (E-TTL works!). Furthermore, "balancing" the light is very tricky as you are working close to the subject. A change in working distance of a few centimeters will mean that you have to change the power output of the flash.

I have had great results with flowers and insect, using a macro 100 II, but it takes a lot of effort to get it right.
Furthermore, please check that the flash fits on the lens that you want to use e.g. for the 100 mm macro you need an adapter ring.

Hope this informs

Ben     

9
Animal Kingdom / Re: Yard Bird
« on: July 23, 2014, 09:49:52 AM »
Some in my backyard

10
Reviews / Re: Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake
« on: July 21, 2014, 12:53:57 AM »
Hi,
I think you got a lemon. I was very pleased with my 40mm until I got my 35 f2 is, which is extremely sharp from f2 and at f2.8 was sharp border to border.
This is my most used lens for street photography specially at night time

+1

I have both lenses and I like them both. If I would have to make a choice , purely on sharpness, then I would take the 35

11
Canon General / Re: Colombia
« on: July 14, 2014, 03:45:06 AM »
Hi,

My last visit was in 1996, so that is a long time ago. In those days, Medellin was very dangerous, Bogota was alright at least in the better part of town. If you have the time, fly to Carthagena, which is fantastic and super safe

12
Technical Support / Re: CF CARD speed question. Am ignorant.
« on: July 07, 2014, 12:17:34 AM »
you mention that your main concern is shooting at 12fps.
Think about the following, A RAW file is appro. 20-25 MB, so at 12 fps, you need to be able to to have a write speed of let's say 12*20=240 MB/s. The current cards do not have write speeds that can keep up with this.

So, what will happen is that the internal buffer will fill up and then things will start to slow down.
As far as I know , the 1DC and 1DX have a 1 GB buffer, so that is ~ 40- 50 RAW files, which means four seconds continuous shooting at 12 fps.


I use the 12fps a lot on my 1DX for BIF, and sofar I have never shot a sequence of more then 20- 30 photos in one go.
If I do, I notice a short delay of two , three seconds for the buffer to write to CF cards (Lexar 32Gb, 1066).

In short, the card write speed is such that it will not be able to keep up shooting 12 fps in RAW format.
What it will do, is influence the time it takes to write from the buffer to the card.


I am more worried about cards that fail. I have bought many lexar and sandisk cards all of them 16GB or 32 GB and I have had failures on both brands. Failure: unable to read/write to card, unable to format, so they end up in the bin.
This is for me the main reason to use many smaller cards instead of going for a few high capacity ones.

13
Software & Accessories / Re: Neutral Density Filters
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:46:11 PM »
So, I've recently invested in a 16-35 II. I'm looking to use an ND filter for long exposures, but I'm having trouble settling on one. [...] I've just seen a NiSi filter on amazon. 10 stop coated filter in 82mm for £49.98.

I've recently researched this (and ended up with a Heliopan 10x for  €100), so here it goes:

* for cloud blur in daylight 10x isn't enough, get a 16x, also helps for removing moving objects and improves iq since you don't need to use the smallest f

* cheap filters have worse color casts, just don't.

* you don't need a premium-coated version because a nd is there to stop light (you might get more flare though)

* most important thing: both b+w or heliopan 10x produce color casts due to infrared leakage, if you want to avoid this (it's not that easy to remove in post) get a filter with integrated hot mirror ir blocker - it costs more, but with wider lenses than 35mm you cannot stack an ir blocker with the nd filter.

Indeed the heliopan 10X produces significant color cast

14
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:37:47 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

Only in Group Mode, and they fire pretty close together, but it is a nice feature.

Indeed, sorry forgot to mention that

15
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:28:40 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

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