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Messages - wopbv4

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31
Software & Accessories / Re: Neutral Density Filters
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:46:11 PM »
So, I've recently invested in a 16-35 II. I'm looking to use an ND filter for long exposures, but I'm having trouble settling on one. [...] I've just seen a NiSi filter on amazon. 10 stop coated filter in 82mm for £49.98.

I've recently researched this (and ended up with a Heliopan 10x for  €100), so here it goes:

* for cloud blur in daylight 10x isn't enough, get a 16x, also helps for removing moving objects and improves iq since you don't need to use the smallest f

* cheap filters have worse color casts, just don't.

* you don't need a premium-coated version because a nd is there to stop light (you might get more flare though)

* most important thing: both b+w or heliopan 10x produce color casts due to infrared leakage, if you want to avoid this (it's not that easy to remove in post) get a filter with integrated hot mirror ir blocker - it costs more, but with wider lenses than 35mm you cannot stack an ir blocker with the nd filter.

Indeed the heliopan 10X produces significant color cast

32
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:37:47 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

Only in Group Mode, and they fire pretty close together, but it is a nice feature.

Indeed, sorry forgot to mention that

33
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 05, 2014, 08:28:40 PM »
The only issue... and this is minor at best... with the 600's and the st-e3 is knowing which flash is a and which is b... I know I can just look... but I get lazy and I say screw it... I just want a 2:1 ratio and I'm good enough.  But I'd like to be able to say... set off A alone... and I probably can do it... but how doesn't come to mind.

Put labels on the flashes, and/or have a system.  A is key, B is fill, C is hair/rim, D is background, etc.  You can disable groups from the master (I use the camera menus) – that's great for setting up, so you can optimize the power for each flash (e.g., the amount of fill) in isolation for each light, all without stepping away from the camera.

I usually put my a's to my left and in the alphabetical order going from left to right... but I was lazy yesterday and didn't feel like getting up from my kneeling position. 

Press "test" button" on ste-e3 and the 600s will fire in sequence according to the groups they are assigned to.

Easy way to find out which group is which

34
Speedlites, Printers, Accessories / Re: to 600rt + st-e3 or not....
« on: July 04, 2014, 12:01:43 AM »
I'm with neuro, privatebydesign, and Random Orbits on this one.  Get the 600/ST-E3-RT setup.  Everything about the reliability and power of the system is true, and the convenience of making adjustments from the camera/transmitter is wonderful.

I used to have three 580s with st2 and finally I changed over to three 600s and the ste3.
It was as if stepped into a different world. No more line of sight requirement, able to trigger the 600s over very large distances, up to 100 m  and last but not least the ease of control and setup using the camera menu is just fantastic.

Probably the best upgrade i have have done in last five years, worth every dollar

Hope this informs

Ben

35
Software & Accessories / Re: Apple to Cease work on Aperture
« on: June 29, 2014, 04:03:43 AM »
Let's hope that Apple also fixes the problem that OSX 10.9 only support 8 bits/color channel.
I complained many times about this before. Adobe, Eizo, Nec, most graphic cards.... all support at least 10 bit/color channel, the bottleneck is OSX.

36
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Macros with APS-C or Fullframe?
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:51:23 PM »
Hi,

I use a 7D and a 1DX for macro, with 100 mm macro II ISM and extension tubes.

Because of the Effectice Focal Length increase with the 7D , it gives you more freedom with a better working distance.
So, I prefer the 7D for hand held shots as long as there is ENOUGH light. I do not want to go above iso 800 with the 7D and at 1/100, F16, it gets tricky in darker areas.

So , on a rainy day, the 7D stays home and the 1DX with it's superior iso (noise) quality is the preferred choice.

If I go for the full monty, so tripod, focus stacking, extension tubes ...... then I use the 1DX because of the better IQ.

Hope this helps

P.S Canon Angle finder C ~200$ is an extremely useful tool for low to the ground shots

37
Downloaded ans installed it on my Mac Pro (latest version) and on my Macbook Pro also 2014 model.

This version of EOS Utility does not support a connect via a aUSB cable , so either LAN or wifi

What?!?
... I'm on Mac also, and this version is working with USB cable.



Deepest apologies. It does work with a USB cable. I always use LAN or Wifi, so the intro screen of EOS Utility confused me


Again sorry !!!!!

38
Downloaded ans installed it on my Mac Pro (latest version) and on my Macbook Pro also 2014 model.

Installation is flawless.
Interface looks a lot cleaner now.
I had no time to play with DPP, just opened a few files and it does what is expected.
What has improved a lot is Remote shooting via PC/MAC in EOS Utility
The camera bit has not changed, you still have to click through about a dozen of screens, but from there on life has improved a lot. the "pairing" juts works instantly and you are ready to go. The interface is soooooo muuuuuch better that is definitely worth a try.

This version of EOS Utility does not support a connect via a aUSB cable , so either LAN or wifi
Both sets of software install next to the existing versions, so you can run both.

Hope this helps a bit


Ben

39
Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 16, 2014, 10:44:14 PM »
100 mm macro IS. I am surprised who many people picked this as there first L lens. It is one of the  "cheeper" L lenses , so that probably helps.

Anyway, this was the start of spending a lot of money. I bought (not in that order) 8-15 fisheye, 16-35, 24-70, 70-200, 85 F1.2, ts 24,  30 f2IS. I know that the 30 F2 is not an L lens, but it pretty damn good, I just love it.
Only disappointment I had was 17-40, just couldn't make it work for me and sold it.

Most used 24-70 and 70-200

40
Server is down, but their e-mail does not work either, see text below



Delivery has failed to these recipients or groups:

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41
Lenses / Re: Re : B + W 105mm Circular Polarizer
« on: June 07, 2014, 04:22:05 AM »
Hi,

I use the Lee filter holder with TWO slots and attached the Lee 105 CP in front of that.
I find that on a TS 24, I can see the hard edges in the frame. Only after removing one of the two filter slots, I can use the CP without  having problems.

Just a word of warning, I made a BIG mistake in the past !
 I attached a normal 82 CP to 16-35 and then attached the Lee adapter ring to the CP.
It took me forever to seperate the adapter ring from the CP as the front ring of the CP complete "screws" inside the adapter and there is nothing to hold on to. I solved this by using a cloth to put pressure of the actual glass of the CP to get grip and release it from the adapter that way.
I succeeded in the end, but I used some bad language in the process.


 

42
Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: June 06, 2014, 11:07:32 PM »
Black Neck Stork

43
Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: June 05, 2014, 07:11:37 PM »
Taken in the forest. Enjoying a fresh nut

44
Hi,

I use a 1DX with WFT-E6 for still photography and it works fine.

Today I made video with the Rode VideoMic Pro plugged straight into the camera and used the EOS Utility to change camera settings and did a bit of recording.
At editing time I noticed that there is a clicking noise on the audio, about two clicks/second.
I removed the WFT-E6 from 1DX, reshot and the clicking noise is gone

Has anybody experienced this as well?

45
Animal Kingdom / Re: Show your Bird Portraits
« on: June 01, 2014, 09:17:43 AM »
I just love these birds, they have so much fun and they live in "families", mostly they group at seven to eight birds
1DX, 70-200 F2.8 II, 1.4X, iso 100, F8, 1/250 plus EX-600 flash with Better Beamer

I especially like the second one in the series. You really have captured the frolicking  ;D

Thanks very much !!
I grew up in the Netherlands and moved to West Australia some ten years ago. The wildlife, especially the birds are amazing. Furthermore, the night sky, the Milky Way is just incredible.

I am still saving for a 400 F2.8 or 600 F4.0, just can't make up my mind as a do a lot of sports photography

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