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Topics - Hydrogen

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Third Party Manufacturers / Gitzo GT2541 and GT1542T folded diameter
« on: December 02, 2013, 02:29:26 PM »
I am comparing these two tripods and need the widest diameter around the folded legs of both tripods to make an informed decision. If you even have one or the other and are willing to provide the measurement, maybe I stand a chance to obtain both.

GT2541 and GT1542T

Thank you!

Darius

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Lenses / AFMA Accuracy vs. Precision
« on: May 12, 2013, 03:37:11 PM »
Hello Everyone,

Just wanted to pose a question to those with sufficient experience AFMA testing and adjusting several lenses and bodies.  Specifically, I want to discuss Accuracy (how 'spot-on' focus is relative to a target) and Precision (the repeat-ability of focus).

Ref: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

I have found that more often than not, zero AFMA adjustment on a body for a given lens yields more precision (repeatable results) even if the depth of focus is "off" (front or back) rather than once you adjust the AFMA in either direction, even by +/- 1.  This is why I am starting to believe factory calibration of body to lens is better than AFMA tweaks.

Sometimes, but less frequently, higher precision (repeat-ability) is found on an AFMA setting other than zero, but it isn't always the "best" AFMA offset in terms of image accuracy/sharpness.

I believe this is why the FoCal AFMA testing application has a AF Consistency test, which allows you to test various AFMA values in a repeatable fashion, to seek-out the best AFMA setting with the most repeatable results.

Have any of you found the same to be true?  That sometimes you may want to trade accuracy for better precision (repeat-ability).

Thanks

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 7D Rear Dial Cheap?
« on: May 03, 2013, 10:50:35 PM »
Just purchased a 7D and the rear main jog dial feels cheap. 

This is the third body I've used and one of the two previous ones were like this too.  Best way to describe it is a cheap, flimsy plastic feel.  It works just fine, but pushing the SET button makes a popping/clicking noise.  The dial itself turns just fine and has good tactile response but some play if you tap on it vs. turning it.

This is unlike any other EOS body with a rear dial I have tried.  Again, 2 out of 3 have been like this.

Is it just me?

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 1D III viewfinder visibility
« on: April 25, 2013, 11:43:49 AM »
For any current or former 1D3 users...

I just picked up a used 1D3 body.  Note this is my first 1-series body. 

Is it me or do the AF points in the viewfinder fade a bit unless you are looking ON DEAD CENTER through the viewfinder?  Compared to other EOS cameras, it seems to need more 'directional' viewing.  I have used 20D, 40D, 5D II, 5DIII.

Also, seems that its harder to see the entire contents of the viewfinder like the exposure meter on the right side while wearing my glasses than with the other EOS cameras I have used.  If I take my glasses off and wear contact lenses, I can see it much better.  First time I must say that I can't see the entire perimeter of a viewfinder.

Thanks

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Lenses / EF 17-40L inner barrel knocks @ 40
« on: April 21, 2013, 09:41:02 PM »
Anyone with a 17-40L that can check theirs real quick for me?

On the refurb. copy I recently received from Canon, the inner barrel 'knocks' (moves) when the lens is at a FL of 40mm.  You can hear it if you shake the camera around, but also induce it when applying some pressure with the index finger to the front lens element ring and moving it around.

I noticed this when I went to clean the front lens element with a microfiber cloth and solution as mine came with a smudge on the front element.

It only happens @ around 40mm (when the barrel re-extends at the longer end of the range.

Thank you

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 7D vs 5D3 noise @ ISO400
« on: March 30, 2013, 10:11:55 PM »
This subject has been beaten into the ground, but I was surprised at how much noise I was seeing in even ISO 400 images in broad daylight with a 7D compared to my 5D3.  See comparison below.

The short story is I have two 5D2 refurb's and two 7D refurb's that I am evaluating as a backup body to my 5D3.

I believe I am going to stick with the 5D2.  Using Reikan's FoCal, both 5D2's OUTER AF points outperformed all 19 points from both 7D bodies in both Quality of Focus (QoF) and AF accuracy.  I will post a separate comparison of them in a new thread tomorrow.

Both are 100% crops of shots of the northern sky at ISO 400, RAW OOC, zero NR.  First is the 5D3; second is the better of two 7D copies I am evaluating.  You will need to download/save them to see the noise more clearly.

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D2 Refurb Received - Questions
« on: March 22, 2013, 10:34:58 PM »
I know what you're thinking...  Another poster thinking 2,851 shutter actuations on a body rated for 150k is excessive.  But that is the number it came with and based on *most* refurb-owning posters, they seem to come with actuations in the low hundreds.  Yes, there are some with 1k and there are some with even more than mine. 

Otherwise, it relatively shows little to know signs of wear.  Maybe they replaced grips, etc. but the only thing giving away age or usage is the CF card door - the plastic on it is a bit "glossier" than the rest.  Like the wear you would see on a keyboard that has been heavily used.

I have a few questions:

1. Can anyone help me determine if the serial number is a recent one? 
0852xxxx are the leading digits and the LP-E6 battery has a June 2012 date code stamp, but that doesn't mean anything.  The 5D2 I had purchased new in December and returned for a 5D3 had a serial number of 0952xxxx.

2. How does the Canon Direct exchange process work?  If they no longer have the 5D2 in stock by the time I return this copy, will I be up the creek without ta paddle? or...

3. How lenient is Canon if I were to order a second body for the purposes of seeing what I get before I request an RMA for this one?  My luck, the second one will have even more exposures or signs of wear than this one.

Thank you!

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / 5D2 refurb or new 7D as backup to 5D3?
« on: March 21, 2013, 06:38:29 PM »
Note: I prefer feedback from those who have owned (or still own) a 5D2, 7D and 5D3.  Thank you.

Background: I own a 5D3 and was looking for a backup body as my 20D is a joke for a backup.  I am a Canon pro-sumer of eight years, turning part-time pro shooting family and couples portraits, events and looking to do weddings.  I also take pictures of my own family and kids playing sports.

My dilemma, which was resolved with the 5D3 is that I am a stickler for tack-sharp (using more than just the center AF point) pictures, but also demand a good IQ and a low-noise seeker.

So I just received a 5D2 refurb. from Canon Direct with 2,815 shutter actuations on it.  Judging by the date stamp on the main battery and the serial number, I am going to deduce that its a early to mid 2012 copy. 

The battery charger also looks to be a slightly older one with less refined looking labels/notations on it than the one that came with the new 5D2 I purchased in late December, but had returned, which looked identical to the one that came with my 5D3.

One thing that bugs me is the SET button on the back makes a slapping noise sometimes when you push it.  I forget if the previous 5D2 I used did same.  My 5D3 and 20D aren't like this.

If I return it for an exchange, I risk them not having one in stock when this gets back to them, I gather.

I know I will need a back-up body if I'm being paid for a shoot.  One that will produce great image quality, but I also want good AF.  The caveat is that once I shoot weddings or other indoor lower-lit events, I am wondering if the 7D is sufficient.  David Ziser seems to think so... http://bit.ly/9xEebV

But I am concerned about the noise of the images and lack of another FF backup body.  I realize if its just a backup at say a wedding, the crop is "good enough" and I could mount my widest lenses to it for wide-angle shots in a pinch.

For sports and nature though - I am missing the reach of my 20D.

Oh, and I also want a camera that has good IQ, but isn't as expensive as my 5D3 to take with me on family trips/vacations.

Any thoughts/feedback?  Thanks.  I am tempted to just purchase a brand new 7D instead to go along with my 5D3.  Once you add sales tax to the Canon Direct purchases, I could save ~$300-400 if I got a new 7D.

Thanks

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Lenses / Extension Tube Detection in DPP for DLO
« on: March 18, 2013, 11:05:01 PM »
Quick question for those of you who have used Kenko extension tubes...

Does DPP pick up the 12mm extension tube as if it were a Canon tube for the purposes of DLO and Lens aberration correction? 

I can understand if it doesn't for the 20mm and 36mm Kenkos, as they are for lengths that have no Canon equivalent.

Thanks - trying to decide whether I go with Kenkos or Canon.

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Third Party Manufacturers / Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG's odd behavior on 5D3
« on: March 16, 2013, 12:06:52 AM »
So two “Siggy” 85's freaked out my 5D3...  Has anyone had a similar experience?

Should I be concerned that either Sigma damaged my 5D3 or do you think this is some fluke?  Either way, I sent both Sigma’s back to B&H and Amazon respectively.  Sad because the IQ from that lens was nice for the money.

It was working fine just through general shooting then I decided to order a second copy to have something to compare the first against along with a single copy of the Canon EF 85 f/1.8 USM and started testing (USAF 1951 resolving chart - mostly for element misalignment and also FoCal for focus and sharpness).

First thing that went wrong was FoCal would continuously crash regardless of which Sigma lens copy I used (I Google’d and a few others are experiencing this with FoCal + Sigma 85).  It would require a full power down of the camera to get FoCal to work again without crashing.  If I mounted the Canon 85 1.8 *without* powering down after a Sigma freaked it out, even the Canon would cause FoCal to crash.

Then it gets more interesting…  USAF test shots – 10 second timer, manually de-focusing lens before each shot.  Canon 85 1.8 – no problems, Sigma – if I manually de-focused TWICE *consecutively*, the 10 second timer "turned into" a 2-second timer (no joke) EVEN THOUGH the top LCD on my 5D3 showed it as still being in 10-second timer mode.  Have you EVER seen this?  So get this – even if I switched to one-shot drive mode and BACK to the 10-second timer it was STILL behaving like a 2-second timer!  If I powered down and back up, all was well 10 second timer again.  This was repeatable with BOTH Sigma copies without fail.  The Canon 85 1.8 (if I restarted the camera before mounting it) worked 100% fine.

Needless to say, I personally may never purchase another Sigma again.  Other posters in various forums have had FoCal crash and other odd experiences with Sigma lenses on Canon bodies.  Forbid one of these lenses damaged the 5D3.

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Technical Support / 5D2/5D3: No Mirror-Lockup with AEB?
« on: March 16, 2013, 12:00:53 AM »
I want to refer to an older thread:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=5599.msg107127#msg107127

Why can't you have mirror lockup enabled with AEB and a 2-second timer?  Wouldn't you want the mirror locked-up between shots if you are doing a bracketed scene on a tripod?  I guess they figure the AEB is for shorter exposures than would matter on a tripod?

Thanks for your answer(s).

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EOS Bodies - For Stills / Own a 5D3 - need a backup...
« on: March 15, 2013, 01:24:27 AM »
Hi Everyone,

I presently own a 5D3.  Have had the 5D3 for three months now and really love the camera.  Wish I could own two 5D3's.  I would get the 5D2 as a backup, but @ ~$1,200 used, it's just way more than I'm willing to spend after investing in lighting equipment.  ~$700 is the absolute limit for me, even lower is better.

I am looking to get a better backup to the 5D3 than my 20D is (no contest) and I am considering a used 5D classic or used 50D.  I realize they are completely different options with pros and cons to each, but here is my thought process.  Please note that I am a prosumer turning professional and will be taking more and more family and couples portraits with a near-future goal to shoot weddings.

1. 5D will match the full frame of my 5D3 so it makes for a closer 1:1 backup in terms of FOV.

2. 5D appears it would have better high ISO performance.  Likely better IQ and shallower DOF because of the FF and higher DLA for those narrow aperture landscapes as the size of the photo sites being larger.  The 50D actually has a pretty low DLA of f/7.5 vs. the f/10.1 of the 5D3 and f/10.2 of my 20D.

3. A feature lacking in the 5D classic that I would very much be missing that I have in my 5D3 is AFMA.  This is one huge benefit in my view of the 50D and on a tangent, where I believe the 60D falls short and hope to see a 70D with AFMA again.  I want to be able to tweak my lenses myself (so long as they aren't way out of spec).  I sent lenses in when they exceed +/-5 AFMA.

4. Would down-sizing/sampling a 15MP image out of 50D down to 12MP to match that of those images coming from the 5D overcome any higher ISO noise from the 50D (to a point - i.e. ISO 1600)?

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

-Darius

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