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Messages - HurtinMinorKey

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271
I would stick with 30fps at 1080p because it allows you to crop in post(if you want). It'll be plenty smooth. It'll be hard to make it look film-like in post at 60fps, because it necessitates a faster shutter speed, even if you were to drop frames.

F11, seems reasonable.  With a shutter speed of 1/50 or 1/60.  I'd use the sunny or cloudy white balance setting depending on what you get. They work pretty well outside. Pay close attention to your screen, because it's very easy to blow out the highlights shooting metallic things in the sun. You, should zoom in on bright spots to make sure they aren't being clipped.  Although, if you are in bright sunshine, some clipping will be inevitable if you want any detail in the shadows.

272
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 10, 2012, 12:12:10 PM »
I think for sports, you can take it up to 30fps. It takes the edge off, but it still looks cinema-ish (at least to mee).

273
Video is just a small "side bonus" on the 5D3, so don't be so surprised if Canon doesn't give you the features you want. They are saving all the good stuff for the 1DC-line. That is where you should be looking.

Or waiting for the 5D-C, which has to be coming soon.

274
In general, lens resolution peaks at a mid-range aperture, then begins to fall off. Also, if you are going for the cinema look you need a shallower depth of field. I understand the desire to get things in focus, but I think you are going a bit overboard in  my opinion.

275
are you going to be shooting in the middle of the day? If it's bright sunshine then shooting closed down might be your only choice. f22 isn't really in the wheelhouse of those lenses. If I had to shoot in bright light id use some density filters and aim for f11. The good thing about dragsters is you know where they are going, so you might consider practicing a panning shot off the line with a tripod.

276
EOS Bodies / Re: Idea for Canon?
« on: May 05, 2012, 01:38:57 AM »
Medium format video. Bring it.

277
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 04, 2012, 01:57:09 PM »
VERY helpful hints, a few more ??'s

I already custom white balance for each of the different gyms I shoot, so I assume the same WB I shoot stills will be the same, correct?

Shoot Manual ?  30 fps, 1/30 or 1/60? , f 5.6 - f8, and adjust ISO to attain exposure
yes, and yes

and I ASSUME that the 5d3 sensor would allow me to shoot lower ISO c/w the 7d, but if the 7d is 'adequate', I could set up both cameras, the 7d fixed and more WA, and then track / go handheld and tight with 5d3, but how much "post" will I have to do if I use 2 diff bodies? Granted I am probably going to pawn off the post on my videographer, but I'd like to learn to shoot it correctly and avoid common mistakes, which brings me to the compression formats.  Between the 7d and 5d3, which format to use for the 5d3? 

Time - synching?  Cheap options for a multi-camera shoot? Necessary ??

Use inter-frame compression for 5d3 it will sinc up better with the 7D. Post shouldn't be too bad, just make sure you get a similar exposure/white balance.

I wouldn't worry too much about time synch, if you plan on taking large clips.

Also, at 30fps (inter) the mkiii will eat 60-80 Mbps, that's approx 8MB per second, so shooting continuously will cost you about .4GB per minute.  There is also a 29 minute/4GB limit for each clip. So you won't get much more than 11 mins at full resolution.   




278
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 04, 2012, 12:12:53 PM »
Have you ever edited the video from your 5D3 before?  Do you know how to make sure that you are rendering at the proper fps to avoid ghosting and the like? 

If I was going to do a short clip of highlights, I'd use my 5D3, but I'd plan on shooting the whole match and ending up with about 2 mins of usable game footage + off the court stuff, which is much easier.  It'll probably require at least 16GB worth of CF (Make sure you have the right speed of card 60Mbps minimum).

Here are some general tips, assuming that you can get yourself into video mode

1. Find the right white balance.  Gym lights can be pretty ugly, and I'd want to try and set the color temperature(its the mode that says K when setting white) to something that looked good on the camera's LCD.

2. I'd probably start with my 135 lense, and aim for f4.5-5.6. You really want the ISO to be below 1600 for the best look, but i'd go as high as 5200 if I planned on down scaling to 720p. If you find that you can get a lower ISO than 1600, I'd close down to f8 first, then drop ISO as far as it will go.

3. Shoot in the standard picture profile (default). Go with 30fps, and the slowest possible shutter (1/30 I think). This will make it as smooth as possible.  Also. I'd stick to 1080p, so I can pan and scan, and re-frame shots in post(see #4), since panning live is going to be hard.

4. For Action: Take short clips(<10 secs), since auto focus in video mode is totally nerfed, tracking and zooming is going to be effectively imposable (until you become a Jedi master). You need to frame a bunch of shots, and get lucky. Turn off IS (image stabilization). Use your tripod and make sure you know your focus point by using the zoom button while in live-view.

5. At some point, switch up your lenses, and get some wider shots with the 35mm.  If you want to get fancy, you can try and use your zoom to get extreme close-ups of players faces. Remember, if you plan on making the cut in 720p, you can crop to enhance zooms. 

Give this a try for the first game. If everything looks like sh*t, then go to the camcorder.  I think you'll know one way or the other.

Let us know how it works out, and  post a clips!

Also, if you plan on doing this stuff in the future, and you have more time to practice, i'd learn how to use one of these:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/579907-REG/Glidecam_HD_2000_HD2000_Stabilizer_System.html

279
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 03, 2012, 10:34:13 PM »
Are you trying for something in a documentary style, or are trying to cover complete games? Do you have a good tripod? Tell me exactly what you are trying to do.

280
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 03, 2012, 07:31:11 PM »
Thanks for that explanation.

So technically, adjusting the shutter speed through it's range would also alter the "smooth/roughness" of the video, regardless of the fps? Ideally would you set shutter speed to match fps or slightly faster?

The most typical setting is a 180 degree shutter angle. Which means that for each frame half the time the shutter is open, half the time it is closed. So @ 24fps each frame lasts 1/24 a second, so a 180 deg. shutter would imply a shutter speed of 1/48.  You can go slightly slower if you want, but it won't be as "film like", plus the mkii can't go below 1/30 in video mode.

If you are using a 5D mkii, there is no setting for 1/48, so go with 1/50. Notice that if you want to control your depth of field, you are only left ISO as a degree of freedom unless you use something like a neutral density filter to control the amount of light coming in.

281
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 03, 2012, 04:32:48 PM »
I believe Saving Pvt. Ryan battle sequences used a combination of increasing the shutter speed and dropping the fps to achieve that look. 

282
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Shutter speed during video???
« on: May 03, 2012, 02:15:29 PM »
Shutter speed determines how long the sensor reads the image during the frame. So if you are shooting at 30 fps and shutter speed of 1/90 you'd have open shutter for 1/90 of a sec, and closed shutter for 2/90 of a sec. This affects motion blur in the frame, just like it would on a still. For the most "filmic look" you should use 1/50 on the 5dmkii at 24 fps. A film camera would normally shoot at 24 fps with 1/48 shutter speed. This is also known as  180 degree shutter angle, where the shutter is open for the same duration, each frame, as it is closed.

283
Note that the Y:Cr:Cb colour space can be converted back to RGB (it is simply a different 3-dimensional representation of the same data). Missing Cr:Cb values are filled in from surrounding values and then each pixel is converted back. This is done when viewing the movie.


This is what I was saying, they are the same essentially in terms of the relevant data they carry, with maybe a affine transformation between them.  Which is why I thought that MAYBE, the Bayer pattern, which is like a native 4:2:2 sample, might have something to do with preventing a 4:4:4 output, without serious processing/interpolation.

Also, 8bit is nice, but since monitors are only 8-bit(RGB totalling 24)  the extra bits are ONLY use full in post. Theoretically the extra-bits don't give you a better picture, if you have the proper white-balance/exposure to begin with.

I think I've read that wiki article 10 times, great stuff.

284
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 5D Mark III Magic Lantern wish list poll
« on: April 30, 2012, 04:07:51 PM »
Does anyone know where you can download a editor that can edit Canon firmware ?

285
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 5D Mark III Magic Lantern wish list poll
« on: April 29, 2012, 07:54:49 PM »
When expressing chroma subsampling ratios the 4:2:2 doesn't refer to primary colours as G:R:B, it's Y:Cb:Cr which refers to Luminance (Y) and two colour difference components Blue Difference (Cb) and Red difference (Cr)

I think that they are one in the same (G:R:B and Y:Cb:Cr) in this application, but I'm not certain.

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