Messages

196

United States / Re: Prime lenses you currently own or on your wishlist.

« on: December 20, 2011, 12:12:41 AM »

Recently (as in, the last few weeks) I have been reducing my Canon DSLR lens 'collection' of 8, and have whittled it down to 5.  That is, I sold 3 lenses (using gumtree in Australia - highly recommend it as a useful medium to advertise and sell in one's own geographical area.)   

Among those I sold was the Canon 50mm f1.8  (for your info, the other two were the Canon 28-135mm USM IS, and the Canon 100-300 USM).

The 50mm f1.8 had superb qualities in some settings, (and yes, I had a 'decent' copy - in fact I initially had a copy that back focussed, and returned for this one which was better).  On my Canon 350D body, its focus performance was weak. It was better on my Canon 7D, however still not to my liking.

I have decided that I probably won't get any lens that doesn't have USM / HSM (equivalent) focussing.  The 'jittery-ness' and the noise and lack of focus flexibility (eg slower speed, apparent lack of fine accuracy, full-time manual focus) bugged me with the 50mm f1.8 in particular, as I mainly wanted it for critical applications (between f1.8 and f2..

Friends, I do realise "there is a very fine depth of field at f1.8" - I am aware of that, and I have used other lenses with a similarly shallow depth of field.  The 50mm f1.8 just didn't meet my needs consistently.  Focus accuracy and usability were the main issues I had with mine - even after I applied a systematic use - and noticeable improvement with my 7Ds manual focus adjustment (MFA).

So at the moment, the only prime that I have is the Canon 100mm macro USM (nonL)- which is a lens I really enjoy using. Obviously it serves superbly as a macro (where I usually use it hand-held with live-view).  But in addition I ended up preferring it over the 50mm f1.8 for casual portraits and subject isolation (eg objects / still life).  I expect to keep this lens. My copy focusses fast, consistently, even with very small dof settings.  I get a very high keeper rate, whereas the 50mm f1.8 keeper rate was so-so, which annoyed me.  When the 50mm f1.8 shone, it did well. But my 100mm macro shines consistently! 

My next 'dream' prime / wishlist is a fast prime 50mm lens that has great bokeh, fantastic sharpness and good contrast WIDE OPEN, and has USM focussing. F1.8 is enough for me, though of course a f1.4 would even be nicer, but not necessary. I don't want a big, expensive lens.  Several reviews show that at f1.4, the Canon f1.4 isn't really sharp / contrasty. So f1.8 is sufficient. The Canon 50mm f1.2 L is really beyond what I want.  Most important to me is that around f1.8 or f2, I want it to be GOOD, very good on all levels mentioned above. I don't need weather sealing for it. The Sigma 50mm f1.4 has some good reviews, but also there are QC and focus issues.

An icing on the cake would be for it to have a good (eg 4 stop) IS.  A man can dream, can't he?  From the sale of my 3 lenses, I have put the funds aside to save up for such a lens. Even if a 50mm f1.8 III (ie new / replacement lens) will be above what the current 50mm f1.4, I'm happy to pay for it, if the IQ is good.  If there will be a 50mm f1.4 II, I hope it's similar to the size of the current Canon 50mm f1.4.  I'd be a bit disappointed if the price of a Canon 50mm f1.4 II will be significantly higher (even if its not an L) than what they could make a 50mm f1.8 III for.

Time will tell.... 

Paul

197

Canon General / Re: The Jump To Full Frame

« on: December 19, 2011, 11:51:35 PM »

Hi all.

There are some interesting posts here, thanks for this online channel of communication.

I'm just going to pick up on what a few people said in this thread:

pwp wrote:
I shoot full frame, 1.3x crop & 1.6x crop bodies on a daily basis and move freely between the three. My personal viewpoint isthat there is an overblown marketing department driven perception that full frame is something etherial and almost mystical...it's not. It's useful at times for sure, and very nice to have, but unless your kit is making money for you, upgraditis can be a financially punishing trap.
The magic is in the pictures you take.

Mark1 wrote:
Maybe if you shoot flying birds I can understand but the 5D isn't built for that, buy a 7D and get your point and shoot focus with a bit of noise. The 5D was built for landscapes and portaits. Portaits are just awesome with full frame and if you get it right you can capture a kind of texture in people's faces impossible with APS-C.

My opinion is that having good equipment helps, but it is not 'the' deciding factor. I've seen award winning photos that professional journalists have taken with a point and shoot! (because a heavier, bulky and more wieldy DSLR would have actually been a hindrance, eg in real up close photos of street battles, where the journalists have to run, duck and hide, etc).

Obviously, we're not all at that 'extreme' (between possibly loosing our life if we're slightly slower at running with a DSLR in our hand, or round our neck).  However my point is, (and that some have made above) - that learning about light, and a camera's real limits will give many people a lot more photographic prowess than having the 'top of the line and it's SURE to produce the best images'.

I wouldn't agree that an APS-C camera can not produce amazing texture. I've seen repeatedly that without EXIF data, and unless people almost count the pixels while pixel-peeping, an overall image itself is indistinguishable if used appropriately between a APS-C or a FF.  As a generalisation, of course I know FF can give images that have more dynamic range, shallower DOF, sharper 'per pixel' detail, etc.

I learned a lot about photography with an old Olympus film camera, then a few Fuji P&S digital cameras, then moved to DSLRs in 2005. My Canon 350D has served me well for over 6 years, and in more recent years my 7D has indeed allowed my photo skills to continue flourishing.

Some of my 'most prized' photos, yes even of landscapes, are with a 3MP Fuji P&S way in the distant past... ie around 2000.      

Paul

198

Canon General / Re: Canon Files a Patent for a Bunch of Lenses.

« on: December 16, 2011, 08:19:26 PM »

Thanks to those who answered my questions about patents and possible timing of any new lens releases.  "Applauds all round"   

Hopefully we'll see some good new Canon primes in 2012, particularly those for which photographers have been waiting for worthy updates!

After all,  buying lenses will help the global economy, right! 

Regards

Paul

199

Canon General / Re: Canon Files a Patent for a Bunch of Lenses.

« on: December 16, 2011, 11:56:32 AM »

If I'm reading this correctly, didn't Canon 'file' the patents back in June 2010?  (but they're just published now?)

As I'm not up with the latest patent processes - is this an international patent? (or specific to a certain country, eg Japan, UK, NL, Aus, US, Canada, etc?)

Of the lenses listed, the 50mm f1.4 is the most interesting to me.... I would love to see Canon release a Canon 50mm f1.4 true USM which has great optical quality (sharp, contrasty, good bokeh) wide open. I'd be in the market for one. 

Does this post mean that we might expect to see some of these lenses actually released soonish? (or not)?

Thanks CR for the heads up.   

Paul

200

Lenses / Re: Which telephoto lens has the fastest AF

« on: December 13, 2011, 05:58:55 PM »

I currently own a number of Canon USM lenses (15-85mm, 70-300mm L, 100-300mm, 100mm macro non L).  I also own a few non-USM Canons (18-55mm, 50mm f1. and the Sigma 10-20mm EX HSM.

In my experience, the fastest focussing of the lenses I own is the Canon 70-300mm L, though all the other Canon USMs are very close behind it in terms of focussing speed. The Sigma HSM is also fast, but just a bit slower than the Canon USMs imho.

Perhaps in practice I 'feel' that the 15-85mm as my current 'walk around' is a bit faster than the 28-135mm USM which I used to own till a few weeks ago. I've never tested that scientifically, and the difference would be small. I know that my Canon 100-300mm (while not so great optically wide open, particularly not at 300mm) - was able to capture some sports photos due to its focussing speed that other non-USM lenses I had tried couldn't.

I wonder if there are more aspects that come into play to actually answer the question (eg some lenses might focus quicker between smaller focus differences (eg between 10m and infinity focus) - whereas be slower from the 'macro' (MFD) to 10m range.

The theory that a prime lens should be able to focus quicker (because of the less complicated design compared to a zoom) might be true.  A quick note - when I want very quick focussing (eg when I take some photos of motorsports, I nearly always switch my IS off, and I wonder if that gives me slightly quicker focus speed too.., though sometimes I have IS on - eg mode 2 for panning).

Also, I think it depends on the amount of available light. My understanding is that if there is low light (or low contrast) a lens at least f2.8 or faster will gain the focussing precision of many Canon DSLR sensor's "extra precision f2.8 cross focus point" (in the centre AF point).  I've heard many people say that their 85mm f1.8 is very good at quick focus for eg indoor sports (where I could imagine eg a Canon USM lens which has f5.6 might struggle, or at least 'focus slower'.

Finally, another point while on this topic. My Canon 100mm macro (non-L) focussed quickly and accurately, also at 'non focus distances'. I often use it for portraits and subject isolation (and can use the handy focus limiter so it doesn't search / hunt near the macro range).  However some people have complained about their Canon 100mm USM nonL's "slow focus speed".  I've read in a few places that the later batches of some Canon 100mm USM nonLs focussed quicker. (and yes, I am aware there is a non USM Canon 100mm macro too... I'm not including that in this discussion).

For my use, my 70-300mm L does everything I want it to do, including fast focus. I mainly use it for wildlife (including birds in flight), and occasionally other moving subjects (eg motorsports, or casual sports or children camps).  So I realise that's not quite as demanding as some other applications.

Hope my post is useful, even though I'm conscious I am raising some new variables into the equation!

Kind regards

Paul

201

EOS Bodies / Re: Can a 7D do Landscapes?

« on: December 12, 2011, 05:35:03 AM »

I've said for many years that people often overstate that the 'best of the best of current day photographic equipment' is needed for good photos. Landscape photography is one of the photographic genres that have less of a demand on equipment essentially than some other genres (eg sports).

The ability to understand light (colour, tone, brightness, contrast, etc); think and apply powerful composition tools (form, shape, contrasting elements, etc) - often sets apart good landscape photos from 'just average' ones.

The Canon 7D can create amazing landscape photos with a skilled photographer using it. While some full frame cameras would benefit to some degree, that's often at the pixel peeping level.  I have used a variety of cameras including my Canon 7D (and even from over 10 years ago when owning a humble Fuji p&s, then migrating to a Canon 350D) - to take landscape photos.

Many of my landscape photos have been acknowledged as being very good (and I consider there is much I can learn and improve on).

While I would like the 7D to have somewhat lower ISO noise, it's not that bad. With correct exposure and careful post processing, magnificent results are indeed possible.

Wishing everyone (whether with Canon 7D cameras or other equipment) joy while taking & sharing photos, especially at this time of the year. 

Regards,

Paul

202

Canon General / Re: What non-canon lenses do you use and why do you love them?

« on: December 08, 2011, 06:47:53 PM »

My only non-Canon lens is the Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX.

When I bought it (over 4 years ago), it was a toss up between that and the Canon 10-22mm.  Reviews indicated very similar sharpness, (in general Sigma slightly sharper in centre, slightly less sharp at edges - but that is noticable only while pixel peeping), moderate levels of CA and decent handling of flare. 

The Sigma's build quality is higher (more sturdy, smoother zoom & focus rings) - whereas the Canon focuses a bit quicker (not usually important for ultrawide zoom lenses, and particularly not for how I use them).  So I tested the Sigma lens and was very happy with the image quality - and there was only a very minor difference in colour cast between the Sigma and Canon.

My Sigma 10-20mm is particularly sharp at 10mm, corner to corner. It has a slight focus and decentring issue at some focal lengths / focus combinations - again only noticable when pixel peeping. I can overcome both these issues by manual focus (I keep it on manual focus). With manual focus for some reason it seems to over-expose about 1/3 EV, but again, I just turn my 7D's rear wheel to compensate, so basically all is good. 

The main reason I went with the Sigma was that it was about $400 cheaper than the Canon! Also, it came bundled with the lens hood. The Canon lens hood needs to be purchased separately, and it is annoyingly huge. I bought a cheap ($5) 'pinch / snap' lens cap to use when the lens hood is on (I always have the lens hood on).

I'm very happy with the Sigma 10-20mm EX. I use it often. It's very portable - and produces high quality ultra wide images. I use it a lot for landscapes, sunsets and sometimes architectural shots (indoor and outdoors). 

Paul

203

Australia / Re: Finally, cheap cameras in Australian shops

« on: December 06, 2011, 10:28:59 PM »

Hi PeterJ and niccyboy

Thanks for your comments / replies on my lonnnnggg post :-)  I appreciate what each of you has written in relation to this. It seems like we're on the same boat... generally go with what you know, and some store staff might help you with some (extra) info - but don't bank on it.   

Where a product is available significantly cheaper eg online, it can be worth getting it if one is prepared to wait.  I've never had issues importing lenses and accessories from other countries.

The only problem I've ever had with my 7D was that 'built in flash' not popping up (after using a speedlite). I researched and discovered it as a problem with some Canon camera bodies... and tried to get the microswitch to get 'unstuck' (without voiding the warrantee).  It wouldn't get unstuck, so I got it repaired (for free, and it took about 2 to 3 weeks, as it needed to be sent interstate).  I'm glad I had my 350D as a backup :-)

Interestingly the 350D never has this problem.  My 7D has got stuck once or twice since the repair (and they did replace the whole flash assembly / mount area).  This getting a bit 'restuck' has happened when I have a flash (or my remote timer house mounted on it), but each time with a slight push down on the underside of the mount, it releases the microswitch and will pop up).  Hopefully that won't cause future issues.

For time-lapse photography, I use my 350D (which is probably just as good, as it actually has just as clean, if not cleaner ISO 100 shots anyway). So I mount my interval timer / remote housing on the 350D instead.   

Cheers!

Paul

204

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D2 Battery Use Maximization for On/Standby vs Startup/Shutdown

« on: December 06, 2011, 10:13:14 PM »

I don't have a 5DmkII, but I do have a 7D (which uses the same battery).

My experience with the 7D (and with the 350D before that) - is to maximise battery time, is to:
   - turn off the 'post photo display' (which shows the photo for a period of time after a shot is made)
   - or at least minimise the time (eg 2 seconds)
   - don't use the LCD menu for camera settings, but instead the dials / buttons directly
   - don't use live preview
   - keep battery warm before using in cold weather (eg in a pocket close to one's body)
   - don't use lots of AI Focus or Servo Focus unless necessary
   - use AF button - or set the * button for focus (so that the camera only focusses when you need to, not on every shot)
   - turn off IS when not needed
   - use flash only when you really have to
   - turn screen brightness down
   - set the sensor cleaning OFF (that can be set in the 7D on one of the custom menus)
   - have camera set to a 1 or 2 minute 'snooze' period (and it will turn back on at the press of a button)
   - ensure that when you put the camera in a bag, that camera is turned off, so no button is inadvertently pressed

I get a lot of shots that way per battery (well over 1200 with the 7D - even with use of some flash and screen, and about 400 on the 350D, that's with older batteries... they do 'loose their holding capacity' over time).  I've often being on camping trips and multi-day bushwalks (Australian for 'hikes') - so that's important to me!

Hope my post is helpful! :-)

Paul

205

Australia / Re: Finally, cheap cameras in Australian shops

« on: December 06, 2011, 12:46:25 AM »

Hi friends... I'd like to share my perspectives about buying photographic equipment in Australia... & prices, etc

But first, before I get into that (the 'service experience & purchasing') with regard to grey market - here is an interesting post on the topic that's probably worth reading:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php/topic,1725.msg29110.html#msg29110

I've bought a few grey market lenses & a number of accessories online - and have tested each when I received them. Where a defect would show (or a 'lemon copy' - ie not within manufacturers' specifications) I would attempt to return it. Thankfully I haven't needed to! :-)  Online service, shipping and so on has been good with those I've used (eg ddphotographics, and a number of others).

Ok so on to 'local buying'.  I have a degree in marketing and part of my career I have developed and facilitated customer service training modules to major service organisations (eg international car hire companies, government services, hospitality). I've always taken good service very seriously and am critical of bad service, and am happy to compliment outstanding staff.  In my current job I'm a manager of a federal government team - particularly focussed in resolving service issues and systemic service improvement.

Currently I live in Adelaide, South Australia.  In the past I've lived for several years in Europe (London, UK as well as Eastern Europe - eg Romania).  My first DSLR (Canon 350D) I bought in Europe (from a store in London, and I pre-ordered it online - so the staff held it for me as I was travelling some distance to get there).  I've bought a number of lenses and accessories (eg filters, batteries, memory, etc) around that time too - from a few different stores. Also bought my first tripod (a very cheap version) in Romania.

Since moving back to Australia about 5 years ago, I've purchased other camera gear (a number of lenses, a Canon 7D, accessories eg camera bags, better tripod, memory cards, batteries, flash, remote / interval timer, etc). Quite often I'll go to a camera store to see what products different stores are stocking, and what their prices are - and sometimes to talk with camera store staff about the latest products (eg in a lunch hour, or weekend time). I use the internet to be upto date on the latest products that are being annouced and being sold.

My experience has been that in some stores you will get a staff member who knows very little (eg about 20%) of what I do about a particular product (or line / range of products). Eg... they will say "All cameras from Brand X have very poor image quality out of the camera, everything looks soft and the colour is dull, no matter what you do. Brand Y are much better". (Big generalisations, and they include all P&S and DSLRs in their 'statement'). Sometimes I play along for the fun. There might be another staff member in the store who knows what they're talking about (and then I engage in serious discussion).  I'm talking about staff in Jessups & CameraWorld (in UK) as well as Teds, JBHiFi, Diamonds, Camera House & Photographic Wholesalers in Australia.

In my personal experience, I've found some stores have a higher 'average product knowledge' than others, and I've found staff in dedicated photography stores generally have more accurate knowledge. Some stores also seem to have more of a pushy / commission based approach.  Here in Adelaide I have had some good conversations with 1 or 2 staff in Teds (Rundle Street), and Diamonds camera (both Rundle Street and TTP), as well as Photographic Wholesalers in Hutt Street. (BTW, Photographic Wholesalers is a differently branded outlet, but the same company as Diamonds Cameras in Adelaide).

There are a few key staff that I now look out for in Diamonds TTP and Photographic Wholesalers, and when I am walking by, if they're in and available - I'll speak with them. I have returned 1 Canon lens in the UK and 1 Sigma lens in Australia (due to minor, but noticable optical quality issues) and I just showed what I felt were below acceptable levels, and each time the experience went well. I also had my flash refusing to go up on my 7D which was serviced under warrantee (it's a noted design problem with some Canon DSLRs) without any issues.

On several purchase occasions in store, I've had good deals - where I've demonstrated I'm a loyal customer (or purchased bundles), and often staff have been helpful in informing me when new stock has arrived.

I'm very pleased with the reduction in the price of goods in Australia. I almost did a double take to see the 7D camera selling for around $1350 in a few places in Australia (eg the online @ JBHi-Fi).  I bought the 7D when it was only a few months old for substantially more than that... but I don't regret it (a great camera, and I've taken tens-of-thousands of photos in the meantime!)

Hopefully it will continue to give us good value for money options in 'bricks and mortar' stores, as well as online.  I'm willing to buy online & even from overseas for good deals - and have bought a number of items online (lenses, accessories, etc) - but generally prefer the 'in store experience' and 'return options'.

Well... that's a long enough post from me!  Hope it's been a useful read.

Paul

206

Software & Accessories / Re: DxO 7

« on: December 04, 2011, 11:05:25 PM »

The UI is pretty much unchanged.  Workflow no longer requires you to add images to a project before working on them - you can work directly from a folder of images, export sidecars and convert.  Biggest improvement is that the image processing is much faster.

Thanks Neuro... I have found you to be a great source of useful and accurate information on these forums...      Cheers!

I've used some earlier versions of DxO Optics Pro and have always liked the large scale batch-processing capabilities it offered.  I will be upgrading to v7 (will install DxO Optics Pro v7 after I reformat my hdd & reinstall the operating system).

The workflow / UI changes sound a definite improvement to me (I did appreciate how much quicker loading images into a project was with the latter versions eg DxO v6...)

DxO Optics Pro v7 has all my camera body (7D and 350D) and lens combinations - apart from my ol' Canon 100-300mm USM which I don't use anymore... since I have the Canon 70-300mm L USM IS instead

I'm looking forward to the increase in speed, and some of the new features. Speed wasn't a 'huge' concern for me though, as I usually batched several hundred photos at a time, and set my computer to do its thing - doing other tasks in the meantime, or coming back when I needed to. (I have a reasonably fast / high capacity machine - though not 'top of the line / brand new' anymore).

PS... Neuro... I think you had a typo - the 135mm f/2 L is set for release 03.2012 (not 2010).  Even the best people do typos   

I'll be following this post - and reading new threads to gauge other users' opinions of DxO Optics Pro 7.

Paul

207

EOS Bodies / Re: Advice On 7D Purchase

« on: December 04, 2011, 10:14:03 PM »

Glad you ordered it. I was going to suggest that. I LOVE my 7D, and I couldn't care less about a replacement. It's absolutely wonderful for what it does.

+1

Well, in one sense I do care about a replacement - but that's more from the perspective of being interested in what the next generation of cameras will have to offer when my 7D dies (rather than 'needing' / wanting a replacement to a 7D now).

Last night I couldn't sleep... so between 01:00am and 02:00am I decided to take some photos at a local lookout point (about 3 minutes drive from my home). I took my trusty 7D & tripod, the 7D handled the situation so well (much more user friendly and intuitive in the dark than my 350D).

I plan to keep my 7D till it 'stops ticking over' and then see what the market has to offer then. By learning, practising and taking photos - the 7D is a great photographers camera for the wide variety of photo genres that I do - from wildlife, to landscape to macro, etc.  Don't let people say a 7D can't take good landscapes or portrait.

OK, I don't deny that a full frame will give you some advantages, but in many situations, if you know your equipment and have suitable lenses - with an APS-C you can capture images which are basically indistinguishable from a FF (apart from a non-real life pixel-peeping perspective).

Wishing the OP all the best with your 7D!

Paul

208

Software & Accessories / Re: Need a Good Card Reader

« on: November 30, 2011, 06:14:13 PM »

I have a good internal card reader, that I ordered as part of my PC (2 years ago). It operates at very much the same speed as an external USB2.0 card reader I have.

Many many years ago (back in the 'bad old days') I had a few experiences with pins being bent in the connections between graphics card & monitor cord (where these were not inserted carefully enough). And a short time later I had to tell a person their card reader (USB1.1) was broken because they had bent the pins in that.

Since then I've been 'wary' of bending any pins, so I usually connect my DSLRs to my computer using the USB cable.  (Hence I'm probably a bit more 'wary' than I need to be, but I prefer using a few % of battery power than 'risk' bending pins by removing / changing cards all the time).

The speed from connecting my 7D directly to my PC USB2.0 is about the same speed as the internal card read and external card reader. (My 350D is somewhat slower).  The speed connecting my 7D to my computer is very appoximately a bit quicker than 1GB per minute.  As I don't take many videos, and shoot mainly JPEG, it works well for me about 90% of the time.

However, what is annoying (I'm not sure if this is an anomaly) - but using 'My computer', raw files on my 7D (and maybe my 350D also) are only viewed as a 'double JPEG' eg IMG_1234(1).jpg and when copied, is not the raw. So when I shoot raw files (eg tricky lighting, or to really get maximum sharpness & dynamic range) - then I take my Sandisk Extreme Card out of my camera and put into my internal card reader.

In summary, for me, the 'cable' is the most useful solution. I usually copy the files (nearly always just JPEGS) and while I'm waiting for it to do that, I am doing something else on my PC (eg sorting other photos, updating facebook, etc). I have set my camera to auto power down after 1 minute, so it shuts down a short time after the copy transfer is complete.

Hope my post is useful for some people.

Paul

209

EOS Bodies / Re: How often do you go through a body? Why do you upgrade?

« on: November 29, 2011, 05:19:22 PM »

Here is my input to this interesting thread.... including the reason why I changed / upgraded.
I am glad that my 'new gear acquisition syndrome' isn't as severe as some others   

Camera bodies
1979 - 1995 Yashica film camera - when my parents let me use theirs  :-)
1995 - 1999 Olympus film camera - (I gave it away in about 2004 after not using it since 1999)
1999 - 2000 Kodak digital P&S (an early digital camera - used at work, occasionally took home)
2000 - 2001 Fuji F40i P&S (I gave it to friends who wanted a compact digital P&S, I wanted something with optical zoom)
2001 - 2003 Fuji 6800 P&S (zoom mechanism failed - but many photos in the meantime)
2003 - 2005 Fuji F60z P&S (a child broke it - but many photos in the meantime)
2005 - present Canon 350D (works flawlessly. About 100k photos. Weaknesses: AF, low light, poor handling)
2009 - present Canon 7D (a great handling camera producing high quality images).

DSLR lenses & major accessories
2005 - present Canon 18-55mm (kit)  (basic, but still useful as a very light travel kit)
2005 - 2011 Canon 28-135mm USM IS (have just sold this. Good lens, but superceded by 15-85mm)
2005 - present Canon 50mm f1.8 (can produce great images, but buggy AF so annoying @ f1.8 )
2005 - 2009 - Lowepro 150 AW (given to friends who were going overseas on mission work)
2006 - present Canon 100-300mm USM (decent build quality, image quality decent stopped down  @ 300mm. Will sell it)
2007 - present Sigma 10-20mm EX HSM (great quality ultra wide zoom!)
2008 - present Lowepro Slingshot 300 (useful for taking lots of gear on walks)
2009 - present Lowepro 170 AW (my 'daily travel' bag - can hold my 7D & any 2 of my lenses)
2009 - present Canon 100mm f2.8 USM macro (fantastic macro & also useful for portrait)
2009 - present Hahnl remote shutter / interval meter (fantastic for remote release & time lapse photos)
2010 - present Canon 15-85mm USM IS (my most used 'go to lens'. Very sharp, contrasty, super useful focal length & IS)
2010 - present Manfrotto Tripod & head (really a must for macro photography and benefits many landscapes)
2010 - present Canon 70-300mm L USM IS (my highest quality lens. Super sharp, contrasty - even wide open @ any focal length. Still a travel comfortably size / weight!)
2011 - present Nissin Di866MkII flash (to enhance my exploration of the world of flash photography)

Paul

210

Lenses / Re: Packing small with primes. Advice needed please!

« on: November 28, 2011, 09:38:13 PM »

Hi Leopard Lupus

I can understand the appreciation of using primes. As you've indicated you'll be using a full frame (5D mk II) - if it were 2 of your primes lenses to take, I would probably take the 35mm and 135mm from your collection, OR the 35mm and 85mm.  As others have already indicated, it mainly depends on a) your photographic style (and interest) as well as b) your intended location (ok... you've now written California, but what part - city, rural, mountain, seaside, etc).

At the same time, if it was just 1 lens, I'd probably either take just the 35mm or the 50mm.  Depends depends.  I echo what was previously written - 'relaxxxx... you're on a holiday'. Perhaps the 50mm helps being close to the 'natural eye' equivalent in that regard.  But it's hard when you want to go wider...

FWIW, I've just come back from a short holiday interstate to Western Australia - and visited friends in Perth and nearby. I captured various types of photos (city scape scenes, parks, flower details, children of friends, random animals).  I took the 15-85mm zoom on my 7D.  While the optical quality of a zoom is not quite there with an L prime (but it's about the same as most L zooms) - the convenience and flexibility it provides (equivalent from 24mm to 136mm in FF format) were invaluable to me.

When I was in Thailand last year (from seaside Phuket to Bangkok days after the red-shirts protest escalated / ended) - my 15-85mm zoom was my most used lens.  January this year I went interstate to visit my family and too k my 15-85mm zoom and my 100mm USM macro (for portraits).  I don't think I'll ever travel without a zoom... it's just too 'handy' for my needs while travelling (keeping 1 lens on all the time - that's why I have basically decided to do a 1 body, 1 zoom kit for nearly all my 'general' travels).

Best wishes for your decision.

Paul