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Messages - Enthusiast

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Software & Accessories / Re: 10 bit graphics card ??
« on: January 21, 2015, 10:22:01 AM »
if you are not playing games with your PC, the small Fire Pro cards are enough for Photoshop and LR. If you look at Ebay, they are very often removed from brand new servers and sold as used removed.
I paid for my Fire pro 4800 40 Euro or so two years ago.

And what is more important, if you do a proper raw process, you can see a little difference, but for the workflow it´s much more important to have a proper calibration tool and a good screen than 10bit graphic card.

Any monitor which is speced as 1 billion colors is supporting 10bit. But be careful, some display like several models from Dell just have internal 10bit support and use a 10bit look up table for color correction but not receiving 10bit color.


You are looki g for An A3 printer, I recommend the Epson 3880. It is the A2 machine, but don't roll your eyes. It's not bigger than the A3 machines, It's not more expnsive if you calculate that much more ink is delivered with the printer and the ink costs less than half than for an R3000. The break even is when you need the first ink cartridge set at the 3880. They have 80ml each, at the 3000 they have 25ml but cost more than half of the big ones.

The only downside is, that the printer driver is not able to support printing from rolls. I have not really missed that in the last years.
I hope that helps


There was a better time: Last Year as I did. this camera is worth the money you spend. That´s the important thing in my opinion.
Ok it´s cheaper now and it may will get a bit cheaper in future or not but what about the decent photo you are not making in between?
I was coming from 40D and many people liked my pics but to work with fullframe is a different level and you will see it in your pics.
To be honest, it´s so much fun that my trigger count doubled last year after switching to the 5DM3... And it was even high before.

Hi James,
Capture one, I don´t know but Photshop CS5 works well with 5DIII raws. You only need Camera Raw 6.7.
It combines CS5 compatibility and and supports the new raw process version from LR 4.
I´m not sure if this is still available on the Adobe website and may this doesn´t work with cameras only supported by LR >4.1.

Contests / Re: Gura Gear Giveaway!
« on: December 07, 2012, 11:55:55 AM »
I want to win a Gura Gear backback because I tried to buy something in Germany and it´s no dealer here how sell it.
To win it would be THE perfect option to solve that.

Lenses / Re: Canon 70-200 F/2.8 IS II vs. Tamron 70-200 F/2.8 VC
« on: November 30, 2012, 02:55:03 PM »
It´s worth a look, for the same price as a Canon 70-200 Mk II or a 24-70 Mk II you get both Tamrons, the new 70-200 and the 24-70. I expect that you will see this combo very often on 6Ds or D600s.
I had only experience with the 17-50 on my old crop body and it was a very nice lens. Let´s see if the new lenses have the must have appeal as the Canon L´s.

Hi Jdramirez,
The HSS is no the right answer to your problem! HSS is using the flash as a lamp, glowing 1/200s to keep the light on as long as the shutter is running. (Shutter sync speed). To prevent the flash to be demaged, the Hss flash is 4 times weaker than the normal one. HSS is only made to fill shadows while shooting portrait outside in the sun with wide open aperture and high shutter speed.
The normal flash is just 1/800s so the flash is delivering you the freeze and the higher power you need in a gym.
To keep the white balance under control, I would use a lee filter in front of the flash. These filters are realy cheap. You can buy a sample package from Lee with 100 different colors for 15$.
How to make it work: 
1.Take your camera and make some shots in the gym with automatic WB.
2. Look with the info page on the WB.
3. Chose a filter for the flash with the same K and stick them in front of the flash.
4. Fix the WB manually to the same value.
5. Use Av mode and correct -2EV and flash correction to 0EV: the flash is than 75% and the room light is 25% of total that gives you a good freeze and non overflashed look. If you struggle with to short shutter speed, switch tomanual mode and 1/250s the E-TTL will put the right flash in.

Only one color of light - easy to adjust in the post
Enough flash power
If the flash is not using ful power, shorter repeat time

Same strategy also works for parties with a 3200k filter in front of a flash and normal lights. You can handhold and freeze with 300mm easily.

Would be nice to get a feedback if this works for you.


Software & Accessories / Re: Ugrade 50D and 5DII 1.5 stops ISO for $99?
« on: November 14, 2012, 05:43:36 PM »
It's the same thing with lightroom. From 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 I won 1 stop in iso setting on a given camera with each update. And I can say 5D3 in high iso with lightroom 4 is amazing. I made some pics wth 12800 in the dark outside and several people came and told me that the flash is broken...  ::)

Lenses / Re: Canon 85L 1.2 vs Sigma 85 1.4... Has anyone tried both?
« on: November 08, 2012, 01:29:23 PM »
I did a wedding with a rented 85 1.2 and bought the Sigma after that. The comparision is easy:
 The 85L has a very nice special look but you have a lot of shrap behause the AF is so slow that your subject is leaving  Deep of Field at 1.2 before the AF finished. You get only really good pics and a lot of scrap nothing in between.

The Sigma is much sharper, do have a quick AF and you get much much more pics really good and I get only 10% scrap instead of 60-70% scrap. The look is 90-95% as with the Canon an you need a 1:1 comparison to see a difference.
For wining a a concours I would prefer the Canon, for a wedding or Kids I will always take the Sigma.

I like your approach about filter size. The Sigma 50 1,4 I chosed only to have the same 77mm than all my other lenses. It's very practical while shooting primes to remove the caps from one lens and put it on the removed one immediately. I would use an adapter for the 67>77mm filter for the 35mm Sigma.

Software & Accessories / Re: Lightroom 4.1 Running SLOW!
« on: September 26, 2012, 11:34:16 AM »
Lightroom 4.1 is much faster than the Release Candidate but feels slower than 3.6. I doesn´t bring you forward to discuss this because the image quality increase a lot with the new process versions and that´s what we all want, isn´t it?
Lightroom performance is related to two factors:
1. CPU performance
This is relevant for rendering the previews and the export.
LR scales very very good in nearly all functions to all available cores and is much faster in that than most other programs.
2. HD performance
Even the preview are on the HD and the catalog have to load back the data when you switch to next pic.

I´m running LR 4.1 with 5 year old quadcore phenom but I use 2 SSDs since I upgraded to the Mark 3:
1. SSD: All programs
2. SSD: Lightroom catalogue and preview data

The SSD is fast enough to use the previews rendered in a 100% version. You can chose this in the import dialogue in the right upper corner. Wwhile zooming in, the CPU don´t have to render the image again. It´s just rendered once when you import the image. It takes more time to import, but you don´t need to spend this time in from of your PC and saves a lot of time while you work with.

Catalog size is not the factor here. My main catalog is 45000 images and it´s not significantly slower than smaller catalogs I´m working with from time to time.


I installed the new firmware and it also fixed that Yongnuo Radio poppers were not able to synchronize a flash before.

EOS Bodies / Re: This web site is making me question why I lurk here
« on: March 29, 2012, 11:22:39 AM »
Thanks AnselA this is so true. I always be suprised how many people are talking about cameras they had never in their hands. Everybody shall buy what fits best to his needs and D800 and 5D mark III are fitting to different needs in some detail. I do have a M3 in my hands for 3 days now and I can only say, it´s a phantastic camera fitting my needs perfectly. But does everybody, blaming Canon for that camera, realy knows his needs and what he´s talking about? I have my doubts here!

Lenses / Re: Best third-party lenses
« on: March 26, 2012, 03:48:49 AM »
My expirience with the Sigma 50mm 1.4:
It´s very good at 1.4 and 2.0 in comparision to the Canon it´s a bit sharper wide open.
At 1.6 and 1.8 they are not exact in focus both due to focus movement.

Bad: it´s bigger and havier than the Canon

- 77mm Filter, same as nearly all my other lenses
- less vingetting
- fast and silent focus

Lenses / Re: Best third-party lenses
« on: March 23, 2012, 04:44:07 PM »
Just some more experience with the sigmas

I do have several Sigma primes from fisheye to 105 macro.
The elder types have a bit of a crappy usablity because you have to switch to pieces for autofocus/manual changing but the HSM pieces are all very good. The 85mm 1.4 is the best lens I had ever on a camera, even better than the Canon 85mm 1.2 L. The L hase a very nice and a bit dreamy IQ but you have 30-50% scrap in your pictures because people moving out of focus before the focus finished. The Sigma is much faster, that makes it much easier, even in low light.
The autofocus in spot on at all apertures (not like the 50 1,4 witch is fine at 1.4 and >2.0). I bought one of the first lenses came to Germany, it could not be an improvement later in the production.

Lenses / Re: 85mm or 135mm?
« on: March 23, 2012, 04:18:48 PM »
Hi vittohh,
both are great lenses to shoot portrait but what you haven´t told is if you are using fullframe or crop 1,6.
I do have the sigma 85mm 1.4 and the pictures are a bit crispier as the 85 1.2 and what´s best, the autofocus is much faster. this lens is great on FF and Crop and you can use really use it at 1.4 not only 2.0.
On the crop (similar to 135mm FF) it´s nice outside and also usefull inside but only for headshots.
On FF the 135mm is also very useful, on Crop it´s way to long for your purpose but it´s only one stop faster than the 70-200 2.8

I do have a macro too but to make details not people. What would your bright say if she would see all her pimples on your photos afterwards? With a macro you don´t have that nice bokeh and you definetely have a lot of work to soften the faces and so on. What sense does that make? More work for less output.

My personal tip for spending a lot of money: Rent it for a weekend, try it and than decide from the pictures you take and not from a test which tells you that a protrait lens have to be tack sharp in the corners a 1.4.

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