« on: September 16, 2014, 10:40:34 PM »
you missed 11-22 IS on EOS M which i am using ALOT due it being so tiny
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wow that came out of nowhere looks interesting be nice to how it stack up against the 16-35 f2.8
Yes, that will be interesting!
Not to forget price point and will it be image stabilised?
Remember when phones resembled bricks? And then they slowly became smaller and smaller until they could fit inside a matchbox? And nowadays the trend seems to be for ever larger phones - reverting them back to brick status. I love progress!
definitely fake. :-)
But it shows really well, how freakin' easy it would be to build a worthwhile EOS M3.
@Canon: stick the darn 70D innards except mirror and OVF into an EOS-M2 body, add a great EVF on top, slap on a nice fully articulated LCD to the back and make the handgrip so much larger, that it will fit a regular LP-E6 battery for 500+ shots a charge. Sell @ 699 body only and 799 with kit lens and still make more profit per unit compared to any Rebel and 70D, since it is so much cheaper to build than even an SL-1 mirrorslapper. Significantly less labor cost, since many steps in assembly, calibration and QC are eliminated from the manufacturing process, once the fickle mechanical moving parts and separate phase AF and viewfinder prism are gone.
How are you feeling?
I feel excited/fine because it's exactly what I expect from Canon and it doesn't obsolete the cameras I have :->
That would be the last wrench on the right anywhere most of the other parts of the quasi english speaking world
The above works just fine in aperture priority so stick to that if its your thing the flash ec is seperate anywaygeneral rules for dialling in Flash exposure compensation in ETTL
if the background is brighter than the subject dial in + EC the amount depends on how much brighter the background is so you need a bit of trial and error start at +1 and work from that.
this is out doors bright sun etc
if the background is darker than the subject dial in - EC same as about the amount depends on how much darker the back ground is again start at -1
this is indoors in shade at night etc
don't leave the flash just in ETTL it will rarely balance correctly you need to practice balancing the ambient exposure with the flash exposure.
another general rule is expose for the background and use the flash EC to correct the exposure of the subject
hope that helps a bit
It does, but I have a jillion flash questions.
Without a flash, I am predominantly an aperture priority guy. With a flash, I keep hearing two schools of thought on flash settings when you don't have time to dial everything in:
- Rookie mode: Stick with whatever mode you usually use without a flash, use your knowledge of that mode to nail the ambient and heavily rely on tweaking FEC as you go.
- Let's get braver mode: Switch to M, guess/practice at average starting settings (before the shoot), say ISO 200, F/6.3, Shutter 1/80s, and then tweak as needed throughout the event, using the rule that shutter affects ambient exposure and aperture affects flash exposure. If either aperture or shutter are getting forced into values you that are problematic (shutter too slow to hold, shutter too fast for sync, or an aperture that is composition unfriendly to keep shutter where you want it, etc.), tweak your ISO to bring you back into settings that give you elbow room either way for flash and ambient exposure.
- Jedi Event Master Flash mode: Bend the spoon with your mind. Just instinctively know what to do.
The concern with events is uneven lighting, which makes locking in 'you're good, just shoot' settings next to impossible. Can someone give me a simple algorithm for managing this?
Also, I understand the hit to power by using HSS, but sometimes you have to use it, right?