« on: March 09, 2014, 07:06:26 AM »
amazing! I think i need alot more practice before i'm eligible to post in this thread...
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What does "topaz remask" mean?
Thanks, by the way.
I will ask in this topic...
I want to do a panorama like that one I did last evening, but I want to do it now during the night. So, I want that stars will be visible. But if I shoot at 20 sec (which is max time to get sharp stars at 24mm), the bridge would be totaly burned. Thus I thought to make every shoot of panorama twice - one long exposed for stars and one shorter for bridge. Then make both panoramas seperately and blend them together in some way. Can you give me some advice how to make shoots and how then processed them?
Btw, I use 5DIII and 24-70, 2.8, II for this panorama.
PS: Keep post-processing simple as you can.
You need to stitch the panorama before making HDR. Otherwise, it is inevitable that each piece of the picture seems to have different contrast and color.
I'm going with the latter obviously of the two scenarios presented above.
Now I'm looking to get that nice 11-22 wide angle IS lens for an upcoming trip to the Grand Canyon....
I'm in the same camp. Picked up the M to lighten the load when hiking, no regrets. Even with a full complement of lenses (22, 11-22, 18-55 and EF-S 55-250 IS STM), it's only about a third the weight and space of my 6D kit (40, 17-40, 24-105, 70-200 F4 IS, 1.4x III) and gives me greater reach (17-400 equivalent vs 17-280).
I sometimes want a longer lens on the trail and the 55-250 has been a pleasant surprise on the M. It's around twice the weight and size of the other zooms (including the adapter), quick focusing, silent, and is easily handheld - even at 250mm. An EF-M variant might save half the difference in weight and space from the other EF-M zooms if it ever arrives. And it will probably cost more so this will do until then.
Well, that's only because the EOS M is a worthless little camera that shows how little Canon is able to innovate and how they fail to understand that mirrorless is the wave of the future…or maybe it's because the EOS M is a great little camera that delivers very good IQ by putting a large sensor in a small, well-constructed body with a great UI that also happens to be compatible with the best lens lineup in the industry.Also while the EF-M selection consists of only 3 lenses the 22mm f2 and 11-22 EF-M are stunningly good, compact and cheap, even the basic 18-55 is pretty respectable
Let us know when you figure out which is correct.
I'm not familiar with the brand you mentioned, but in general gray cards are intended as exposure calibration tools, and not as color calibration tools. In other words, they are specified to be a particular % gray, (e.g. 18%) but they are not necessarily a neutral gray. In fact, some of them have a noticeable color cast.
Instead, you should use a white balance tool that is truly neutral (e.g., the WhiBal card), or better yet a color patch tool such as the X-Rite ColorChecker Passport.
How/when do you use the ColorChecker in your workflow?
This thread brings up a thought - how many of you wait for the sound or watch for the green focus lock light?
I turned the sound off and haven't used it since the first day I bought my first SLR, and with the USM lenses, I don't watch for the light - I can just tell when it locks. I'm not trying to say it's some special skill, but you can feel it/hear it stop. I use AI Servo all of the time because of that and just wait for the lock and lift my thumb off the AF button and press the shutter. Surely I'm not the only one who shoots this way.