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Messages - wickidwombat

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3316
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III/X Information [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 05:43:33 PM »
You have to wonder, if Canon had released a 5Dmk3 in September (before the 1Dx was announced) and it basically had:

1) generally the same 21M sensor as today
2) the 7D functional feature set (AF system, metering, horizon guide, auto ISO, etc.)
3) a Digic-V processor or dual Digic-IV's like the 7D
4) a slight improvement in the high ISO noise, say 1/2 stop better due to improved sensor manufacturing
5) a 5-6fps shoot rate
6) used the same batteries and grip as the 5Dmk2
7) added a 60 fps video frame rate
8 ) additional firmware options

This for $2499......

How many people would be completely happy with that camera?

You're basically looking at off the shelf technology and mainly adaptation costs involved in the construction and integration, along with improved firmware.  Yet what you'd have would kick the crap out of 80% of the market.

I know that for a lot of mid-range, general studio, and wedding shooters, that's a solid camera and offers just about all that is needed in that market segment.  When you realize the image quality of a 3 year old 5Dmk2 still beats a vast majority of the competition, these tweaks remove the negatives of the current body and flesh out it's feature set nicely.

Looking at prosumer and up, it would still leave room for a 7Dmk2, an enhanced version of the 7D, same 18M pixels, but improved APS-C sensor, 10 fps. It leaves room for a 5Dx with higher megapixels, and the 1Dx for the pro market.
i would rather have the current rumoured camera at 3k

3317
EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 07:23:16 AM »
But there are a lot of people... a LOT of people... who want a pro-quality body with a cropped sensor and are willing to pay for it. I'd love 10fps, an extremely rugged build, a 1Dx quality AF system and metering.

To get that we're talking a $3000-4000 ballpark. I would pay it and so would a lot of sport and bird shooters. That's not something you will see in a 70D.
it might be but i would think more like 2k, rugged build would be similar to existing 7D i guess
if they use the same detuned 61pt sensor from the 1dx they save alot by production scale, can you imagine the point spread on a crop sensor with that beast. I wouldn't right them off just yet i think whatever the crop body they do come out with will be class leading. i just hope the IQ is a significant step up from the 7D sensor. still i am more interested in any new APS-H body than a king of the crops. I doubt canon will leave out the people craving a tough crop. like i said who cares what they call it right?

3318
EOS Bodies / Re: Focusing Screen
« on: February 14, 2012, 07:01:15 AM »
Any focusing screen that will give me a brighter, yet still same functionality, with 1,2 and 1,4 primes? I read once that the VF stays at 2,8 brightness no matter what lens you use.
you mean the brightscreen ones?

3319
EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 07:00:16 AM »
I will probably get dinged hard for this, but if there is no pro level crop sensor camera coming out in the next year, I will almost certainly get a Nikon 800D when it comes out. You can shoot a 1.5 crop on that at 16MP at 6fps gripped. Not too shabby.

The 7D came out as a counter to the 300D and has been a huge success. I can't see Canon just surrendering this market to Nikon. It just doesn't make any sense. Why would they do that?

I am sure the 70D will be the real replacement i have thought for a while the crop sensor camera range was too crowded they needed to rationalise it
who really cares what it is called as long as it can step up to the plate and perform

3320
EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:21:27 AM »
So we are back to the APS-H as being the possible upgrade then ....
dont tease me like that!

3321
Lenses / Re: Cheap UV filters
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:15:07 AM »
the hoya pro1D range are very good value for money

Hoya UV Super HMC seems better to me, blocks less light, has more coatings (12>3) costs the same, only the ring is thicker (5mm>3mm). Or am i missing something?

But is HOYA good enough for L?
I have a mixture on all my L glass Hoya pro 1D, kenko zeta and B+W, i cant tell the difference between them, all are slim versions

3322
Canon General / Re: More Lens Suggestions [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:08:37 AM »
wow the 135 f1.8 would be worth a look

3323
Canon General / Re: Truth in photography
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:07:38 AM »
Here is a picture that I took over the weekend. First picture is cropped from 3:2 to A size (it is for a print) and small anount of level work.

Second picture is the photoshopped version to monchrome and added grain to age it

So how far do we go? Of course neither are 'true' as it is done by actors.
yeah its not quite finished... what about adding a setting moon? ;)

3324
Lenses / Re: 24-105 f2.8IS
« on: February 14, 2012, 04:21:05 AM »
The 24-70/2.8 is the 2.8 version of the 24-105 f/4.0.

Just the same as the 24-105 is the f/4 version of the 24-70/2.8.

I know that might seem a bit strange, but there is only 1 f-stop difference.

um and 35mm of focal range which happens to cover the important 85 to 100mm
1 stop is a lot especially when you are shooting high iso i prefer to keep iso as low as possible

3325
Lenses / Re: Cheap UV filters
« on: February 14, 2012, 04:15:26 AM »
the hoya pro1D range are very good value for money

3326
Lenses / Re: Which lenses for travel kit?
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:56:29 AM »
my feet cover the missing focal lengths so dont care really
50mm gives me a nice small lens that covers all low light use
tripod essential for landscapes / long exposures
I usually keep the flash and a gorillapod and a stofen omnibounce clip on difusser just incase i want to do some off camera lighting the gorillapod is super handy to set up a flash on quickly.
I have been considering if it is going over the top to keep a shootthrough umbrella in my tripod bag though I might try that on my next trip away incase i want to do an impromptue portrait shoot
the cheap ebay povery wizards are small and light and cheap so i take them i may take my yongnuo st-e2 copy next time instead so i have ettl and high speed sync though
i have the kenko DGX teleconvert it will work with any lens and is really small and light (much cheaper than the canon too nice for a little extra reach on the 70-200 if i need it)

3327
Lenses / Re: Which lenses for travel kit?
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:34:24 AM »
I'm probably the worst person to ask about this because when I travel light photography gear wise the list includes
5Dmk2
16-35 f2.8L
70-200 f2.8L
50mm f1.4
1.4 Teleconverter
a flash
and a tripod
plus some filters cable releases batteries chargers etc

3328
Site Information / Re: Tutorial Section
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:17:38 AM »
SAMPLE TUTORIAL - SIMPLE LOCATION CROSS LIGHTING WITH MANUAL FLASH

Sort of came to mind after the flash discussions
might help some of the people asking about starting out with flash

This is a basic lighting concept with the subject sandwiched between 2 lights, the key light and the rim light
its particularly usefull for location shoots where you want the background as part of the shot and the background adds to the effect ie a sunset beach

Equipment used
Camera - 5Dmk2
Lenses - 16-35f2.8L II and 70-200f2.8L IS II

Flashes - 2 x 580 exii (its all manual so any flash could be used though)
Flash trigger - cheap ebay radio triggers (poverty wizards)
a flash stand and a 33" white shoot through umbrella

Settings
ISO 400
Aperture f2.8
Shutter speed 1/125 (well within xsync for all cameras)
metering is set to spot
white balance is either sunny or flash (i cant remember)
wide shot 35mm on the 16-35f2.8
tight shot 200mm on the 70-200f2.8

The aim is to overpower the sun with the flash so the flash is the key light and the sun /sunset provides the rim / fill light.

The flashes are both set to manual and to full power connected to the top of the light stand on a multi flash bracket with the cheap radio triggers.

The flash stand with shoot through umbrella is located to camera right pointing toward the setting sun with the model in between approximate distance from the model is between 1m and 1.5m and the key light is above head height pointing towards the model.

Firstly to determine the exposure i simply spot metered the sunset sky and took a couple of shots to get the exposure set for the background. (depending on the light these settings will always be different usually 2 or 3 shots is all it takes to get your background exposure figured out. (dont worry about exposure for the model yet)

Once i was happy with the settings simply added the flash in to balance the lit model with the place the light stand in the correct alignment at a distance from the model and take a shot (make sure you have highlight alert on, ie the blinkies, so you can identify if you are blowing highlights) take a shot check the picture then move the light stand closer to the model if you need more light to balance the scene or further away if you are blowing out any highlights. . (also check your histogram)

It's very easy to tell from the LCD once you have the scene balanced and then you are all set up you can then shoot your poses even change lenses and change your shots.

if you only have one flash then the light will have to be closer to the model basically all you have to remember here is if you halve the distance of the light to the subject you increase your exposure 1 stop if you double the distance of the light from the subject you decrease your exposure by 1 stop. I used 2 flashes to let me keep the source further away.

there are other aspects of moving the light closer and further away such as quality of light etc (ie the further the light is away the more harsh the light and the closer the light the softer the light, based on it being a diffused light source from the umbrella)

but since this is a simple tutorial to help flash beginners out dont get too hung up on that

these shots are simply raw files brought into photoshop through camera raw, basic curves adjust, some contrast and clarity no adjustments to and colours or saturation, thats all done by the light.

3329
Site Information / Re: Tutorial Section
« on: February 13, 2012, 10:45:10 PM »
We have a section with how to articles on the front page of Canon rumors.  Individuals are encouraged to submit articles for addition to the list.

Go to the Canon rumors page and hover on the articles section, and select one.

There is some good information there, and plenty of room for more.
Yeah I see that, those a re little more epic than what I had in mind i guess you could call it a Tutorial / Review section and stick some of the reviews that neuro and others have done in there too. I'll knock up a little tutorial of the sort of thing i had in mind

3330
Canon General / Re: Is it worth *really* studying photography?
« on: February 13, 2012, 10:03:42 PM »
A friend of mine is doing film at tafe, it is very broad not specific to cinematography although it does include cinematography and photographic units. (he still cant take a still photo to save his life) i'm not sure what his cinematographer skills are like but he is more interested in the director/producer aspect

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