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Messages - wickidwombat

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EOS Bodies / Re: Focusing Screen
« on: February 14, 2012, 07:01:15 AM »
Any focusing screen that will give me a brighter, yet still same functionality, with 1,2 and 1,4 primes? I read once that the VF stays at 2,8 brightness no matter what lens you use.
you mean the brightscreen ones?

EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 07:00:16 AM »
I will probably get dinged hard for this, but if there is no pro level crop sensor camera coming out in the next year, I will almost certainly get a Nikon 800D when it comes out. You can shoot a 1.5 crop on that at 16MP at 6fps gripped. Not too shabby.

The 7D came out as a counter to the 300D and has been a huge success. I can't see Canon just surrendering this market to Nikon. It just doesn't make any sense. Why would they do that?

I am sure the 70D will be the real replacement i have thought for a while the crop sensor camera range was too crowded they needed to rationalise it
who really cares what it is called as long as it can step up to the plate and perform

EOS Bodies / Re: No 7D Mark II? [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:21:27 AM »
So we are back to the APS-H as being the possible upgrade then ....
dont tease me like that!

Lenses / Re: Cheap UV filters
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:15:07 AM »
the hoya pro1D range are very good value for money

Hoya UV Super HMC seems better to me, blocks less light, has more coatings (12>3) costs the same, only the ring is thicker (5mm>3mm). Or am i missing something?

But is HOYA good enough for L?
I have a mixture on all my L glass Hoya pro 1D, kenko zeta and B+W, i cant tell the difference between them, all are slim versions

Canon General / Re: More Lens Suggestions [CR1]
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:08:37 AM »
wow the 135 f1.8 would be worth a look

Canon General / Re: Truth in photography
« on: February 14, 2012, 06:07:38 AM »
Here is a picture that I took over the weekend. First picture is cropped from 3:2 to A size (it is for a print) and small anount of level work.

Second picture is the photoshopped version to monchrome and added grain to age it

So how far do we go? Of course neither are 'true' as it is done by actors.
yeah its not quite finished... what about adding a setting moon? ;)

Lenses / Re: 24-105 f2.8IS
« on: February 14, 2012, 04:21:05 AM »
The 24-70/2.8 is the 2.8 version of the 24-105 f/4.0.

Just the same as the 24-105 is the f/4 version of the 24-70/2.8.

I know that might seem a bit strange, but there is only 1 f-stop difference.

um and 35mm of focal range which happens to cover the important 85 to 100mm
1 stop is a lot especially when you are shooting high iso i prefer to keep iso as low as possible

Lenses / Re: Cheap UV filters
« on: February 14, 2012, 04:15:26 AM »
the hoya pro1D range are very good value for money

Lenses / Re: Which lenses for travel kit?
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:56:29 AM »
my feet cover the missing focal lengths so dont care really
50mm gives me a nice small lens that covers all low light use
tripod essential for landscapes / long exposures
I usually keep the flash and a gorillapod and a stofen omnibounce clip on difusser just incase i want to do some off camera lighting the gorillapod is super handy to set up a flash on quickly.
I have been considering if it is going over the top to keep a shootthrough umbrella in my tripod bag though I might try that on my next trip away incase i want to do an impromptue portrait shoot
the cheap ebay povery wizards are small and light and cheap so i take them i may take my yongnuo st-e2 copy next time instead so i have ettl and high speed sync though
i have the kenko DGX teleconvert it will work with any lens and is really small and light (much cheaper than the canon too nice for a little extra reach on the 70-200 if i need it)

Lenses / Re: Which lenses for travel kit?
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:34:24 AM »
I'm probably the worst person to ask about this because when I travel light photography gear wise the list includes
16-35 f2.8L
70-200 f2.8L
50mm f1.4
1.4 Teleconverter
a flash
and a tripod
plus some filters cable releases batteries chargers etc

Site Information / Re: Tutorial Section
« on: February 14, 2012, 12:17:38 AM »

Sort of came to mind after the flash discussions
might help some of the people asking about starting out with flash

This is a basic lighting concept with the subject sandwiched between 2 lights, the key light and the rim light
its particularly usefull for location shoots where you want the background as part of the shot and the background adds to the effect ie a sunset beach

Equipment used
Camera - 5Dmk2
Lenses - 16-35f2.8L II and 70-200f2.8L IS II

Flashes - 2 x 580 exii (its all manual so any flash could be used though)
Flash trigger - cheap ebay radio triggers (poverty wizards)
a flash stand and a 33" white shoot through umbrella

ISO 400
Aperture f2.8
Shutter speed 1/125 (well within xsync for all cameras)
metering is set to spot
white balance is either sunny or flash (i cant remember)
wide shot 35mm on the 16-35f2.8
tight shot 200mm on the 70-200f2.8

The aim is to overpower the sun with the flash so the flash is the key light and the sun /sunset provides the rim / fill light.

The flashes are both set to manual and to full power connected to the top of the light stand on a multi flash bracket with the cheap radio triggers.

The flash stand with shoot through umbrella is located to camera right pointing toward the setting sun with the model in between approximate distance from the model is between 1m and 1.5m and the key light is above head height pointing towards the model.

Firstly to determine the exposure i simply spot metered the sunset sky and took a couple of shots to get the exposure set for the background. (depending on the light these settings will always be different usually 2 or 3 shots is all it takes to get your background exposure figured out. (dont worry about exposure for the model yet)

Once i was happy with the settings simply added the flash in to balance the lit model with the place the light stand in the correct alignment at a distance from the model and take a shot (make sure you have highlight alert on, ie the blinkies, so you can identify if you are blowing highlights) take a shot check the picture then move the light stand closer to the model if you need more light to balance the scene or further away if you are blowing out any highlights. . (also check your histogram)

It's very easy to tell from the LCD once you have the scene balanced and then you are all set up you can then shoot your poses even change lenses and change your shots.

if you only have one flash then the light will have to be closer to the model basically all you have to remember here is if you halve the distance of the light to the subject you increase your exposure 1 stop if you double the distance of the light from the subject you decrease your exposure by 1 stop. I used 2 flashes to let me keep the source further away.

there are other aspects of moving the light closer and further away such as quality of light etc (ie the further the light is away the more harsh the light and the closer the light the softer the light, based on it being a diffused light source from the umbrella)

but since this is a simple tutorial to help flash beginners out dont get too hung up on that

these shots are simply raw files brought into photoshop through camera raw, basic curves adjust, some contrast and clarity no adjustments to and colours or saturation, thats all done by the light.

Site Information / Re: Tutorial Section
« on: February 13, 2012, 10:45:10 PM »
We have a section with how to articles on the front page of Canon rumors.  Individuals are encouraged to submit articles for addition to the list.

Go to the Canon rumors page and hover on the articles section, and select one.

There is some good information there, and plenty of room for more.
Yeah I see that, those a re little more epic than what I had in mind i guess you could call it a Tutorial / Review section and stick some of the reviews that neuro and others have done in there too. I'll knock up a little tutorial of the sort of thing i had in mind

Canon General / Re: Is it worth *really* studying photography?
« on: February 13, 2012, 10:03:42 PM »
A friend of mine is doing film at tafe, it is very broad not specific to cinematography although it does include cinematography and photographic units. (he still cant take a still photo to save his life) i'm not sure what his cinematographer skills are like but he is more interested in the director/producer aspect

Landscape / Re: Post your best pictures of fireworks
« on: February 13, 2012, 09:09:49 PM »
Some from last year, here in Australia.

Remaining set can be viewed from link below.

awesome shots!, I really wanted to shoot from that location this year but was running late and couldnt make it so i was up the narrows bridge end got some ok shots but nothing like that
what settings did lens etc did you use for those?

Canon General / Re: Is it worth *really* studying photography?
« on: February 13, 2012, 07:50:12 PM »
have you though about doing diplomas at TAFE instead? much cheaper and shorter with a more practical industry focus?

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