« on: July 13, 2014, 11:33:39 PM »
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currently I don't have any lens reaching above 200mm (unless I use a non-canon 2x converter on the MDP). I have been considering the Sigma 150-500mm or even the Tamron 150-600mm
To fund either purchase, either the Ts-e 90mm (choice #1 to sell) or the Zeiss T18mm will be sacrificed as much as I like both, the truth is they don't see much use lately.
I like the sigma option more, as it' available right now, great price, and I would say better buit quality compared with Tamron.
So, would you do it?
...just trying to get some feedack and opinions to make my mind once for all.
I have confirmed that the dandelion autofocus confirmation chip DOES NOT work for this purpose. The body is fooled into thinking it's an EOS lens, but the teleconverter isn't buying it. I suspect it's because the EF conconveter is expecting 3 more pins to provide data that the AF confirmation chip does not have.
Now I'm back to square one...
isnt this what the FEL button does or did i read your post wrong?
The FEL button uses spot and only locks for one image, no?
Have you tried your 70-200mm with 2x MKIII?
Try it out first before hand you may surprise yourself at how good it is! Certainly did for me.
The most challenging thing is keeping the bird in frame with a prime its even more difficult if its flying toward you. With the zoom my technique is to track the bird at 70mm (140mm with the 2x) then as its coming toward you zoom into 400mm or what ever tele you need to try to fill the frame. Its a lot easier but obviously you loose a little AF speed canon quote 75% but I think this is worst case scenario from digital picture review he explains how the AF speed isn't really an issue with MKII lenses and MKIII extenders. I didn't have any trouble following Puffins and they are quick and unpredictable.
Next on my list is a MKIII extender I think
Thank you for the input everyone- I appreciate it. I have all over you suggestions on my list.why not give the 6D a cameo in this aspect of the comparison since its supposed to be better in low light than the 5Dmk3...
I think the astrophotography comparison is a great idea, especially with the high ISO performance of the A7s. Ill do the low light focusing too (its rated down to -4 EV which is supposedly better than the 6D), and the noise performance tests.
Ill post any preliminary stuff here for feedback as well.
Thanks again and keep the ideas coming if you have any more
Try setting the highlight slider to -100 then slowly move the exposure slider + way, watching the histogram as you go to bring the shadows back up. Once the histo reaches the right edge stop. This work for me and gives a more natural look. Avoid increasing the shadow slider too much. Also drop the clarity on this to -10 which gives a little more of a natural look.
If this was a landscape shot you might be OK but I think with people in the shot I process my shots with less clarity.
Photomatix Pro is good in all way for taking HDR shots, according to opinions given by people.
Most of my photos are indoor & low light. I'm thinking about DxO Optics Pro 9, Elite Edition as PP software(never use DxO before). I'm a LR user.
For those using DXO, can you guys share your thoughts on this Vs LR5?
Thanks in advance,
I must be going a little nuts... I'm looking at 200-400's, 300/400 f/2.8's... and I'm seeing the price tag... and I thinking... "That's not bad."
I remember fondly when I spend $100 on a 50mm f/1.8 and I thought that was a lot of money... I'm off to bed... this bug will surely pass before I wake.
The FD mount has a shorter flange distance than EF - 42mm vs 44mm - so by the time you've added physical mount adapter to the 44mm, you end up with a total lens flange to sensor distance much greater than 42mm. Either you lose infinity focus, or there are optical elements (much like a mild TC) which further degrade the image quality of these old lenses.
In short, nothing works, bar one ingenious solution made by Ed Mika (who is also a member on this forum)
His solution is custom made for each lens. Not all lenses can be adapted, and the cost makes it pointless on a cheap lens. Good L FD lenses are worth converting.
Thanks! I love this lens more and more each day. I'm buying a second copy 35 Art over the weekend, hopefully the AF doesn't suck like the first 35 and the first 50 At least now I have the docking and I know that they can work and be epic.