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Messages - The Bad Duck

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16
Lenses / Re: Should I replace my zooms with primes?
« on: August 01, 2013, 08:39:57 AM »
Your lenses are very good to be concerned with supplementing and/or replacing them.
Take a few more pictures (at around f/8 or f/11)  print them big and show them to this ... gallery owner telling him you got a new prime lens.

I bet he will believe it  ;D

+1
Stopped down a bit, as I suspect you do when photographing cars, your lenses should be fine. Aim for f/8 or f/11 as that is where most lenses perform their best (have not looked your lenses up though). Rather add a tripod if the cars are standing still.

Good luck.

17
Lenses / Re: Canon primes
« on: July 31, 2013, 03:45:31 AM »
I´m more impressed with my 85 /1.8 than my 35 /1.4 L. the old 35 /2 (non IS) was not too impressive when it comes down to bokeh. Sharp and all, but the backgrunds were not so nice. Then... the 35 /2 IS, or the sigma 35 /1.4 seems to be great alternatives.

So get the 85 1.8 and don´t look back. When it comes to the 35, get any of the three mentioned; they are all very good and somewhat different so the 35 /2 IS might be a better alternative than one of the 35 /1.4s, depending on your needs. Personaly I stop down the 35 /1.4 L to about f/2 most of the time anyway; so the extra stop is usually wasted. (same goes with my 50 /1.4. The 85 /1.8 and the 135 /2 I use wide open without hesitation). Have not done any AFMA on the 35 though, so it may be better than I give it credit for. Some people LOVE their 35 L.

And then one day you have enough money to get the 85 /1.2 L and you get it. Or you don´t, since you love the 1.8. But even when you get the L, the f/1.8 is still more subtle, light and inexpensive making it a nice lens for parties or travel or whatever. It´s not a waste.

18
So, ehm, to sum this thread up so far:
- We have no solid facts that Canon has invested in new tech to make even better cameras.
- We have no solid facts that Canon has NOT invested in new tech to make even better cameras.

This. Is. Canon. Rumors.

Nothing new under the sun, guys, really, chillax :)

19
Focus recompose, wouldn't be necessary in a studio.  A studio should have modeling lamps on its strobes (or else focus assist beam firing via your flashguns).  If you can't get the outer points to work on the 6D with modeling lamps, something is wrong.  Turn them up brighter, or else send the camera to Canon to make sure this much hated AF sensor isn't actually defective.  Some of them have been. 

For the focus-recomposing I've done (not in a studio), I just have not had a real problem with it.  However I certainly would not attempt it with an f/1.2 lens at or near wide open; that would definitely move the subject out of the plane of focus.

+1
But you already know this. Go to f/8 or something, put more light from your strobes, that will also put you on iso 100. All problems solved. In the studio, that is. 5D2 should be great.

Low natural light, no modeling lights or fast moving subjects, that´s another thing. On some speedlights but not all, there are modeling lights to use in a short burst that may be enough for getting focus. Of course, AF-points are not spread out as far as I would like them to be on the 5D2 but that is about the only thing not to like.

But for studio, 5D2 should be a the best IQ/$ you can get. Put your money into better lights instead. Don´t just stop because there seems to be a problem, work around it.

good luck!

20
Canon General / Re: Copenhangen Trip Advice
« on: July 08, 2013, 07:29:14 AM »
I was born and raised in the south of Sweden and have been to Copenhagen a few times.
Copenhagen is just as safe as any city. Beware of pickpockets and if you go to Chrisitania, you need to chill and not offend anyone. I doubt they will have a problem with your camera if you seem like a nice guy. So don´t go around taking pictures - ask for them.

I second the Round tower and the canals. The mermaid (lille havefru) may be a must see but I´m not that impressed.

I´d take a bus or train to a small village by the coast or something to see the countryside instead of going to Malmö or Lund. Although they are nice citys aswell, they are pretty much the same anyway. Unless you are there when Malmöfestivalen is on, that is pretty nice and you should go.

http://malmofestivalen.se/about/in-english (16-23 of august). Lots of music and food from all over the world.

Sweden is also quite expensive when it comes to camera gear but without VAT it gets better. Also I think Sigma lenses are cheaper than ordinary, if that´s what you are into. 

Personaly I use small primes when shooting in the street. 100 /2 could be perfect, as would 24 /2.8 IS and you should absolutely bring your 50 /1.8! Although the 70-200 /4 is the smallest of the whites, it´s still white. Drop the battery grip aswell. You want your camera small. Only models like to have big cameras in their face.

Remember to have smörrebrö and pölse. And of course snaps and beer. The Danish are great designers and almost as good looking as the Swedes, who are almost as good looking as the Norwegians.

Have a great trip.

21
Lenses / Re: 50 F1.4 durabilty question
« on: July 08, 2013, 06:33:07 AM »
I´ve dropped my 70-200 /4 L IS twice from about the same height onto the floor (wood). Not a scratch, perfect shape and perfect results. Dropped my brand new 35 /1.4 L onto tarmac, the af/mf switch took a hit and was loose, just hanging by the wires outside the lens. A small scratch by the mount on the pastics but the rear lens cover took most of the hit. I put the switch back right there in the field. Works perfect.
Then again, they are L lenses and have inner focusing. They should be able to handle some abuse.

Have not dropped my 50 /1.4, cant really say anything about that but my 50 1.8 only lasted a few weeks then broke in two pieces. I use my gear, and although I try to treat it well it doesn´t always work out that way...

If ya want to make an omelet you have to crack som lenses?

22
I seldom do exposures that long, but I do know that Canon still include a piece of rubber to cover the viewfinder. It´s on the camera strap.

Oh the good old days of light metering in the centre of the frame and in the bottom left corner (AE-1). I still think I´m spoiled when I use my 5D´s, or my old 30D for that matter.

23
Lenses / Re: Help me choose 40 v 50(1.4)
« on: July 04, 2013, 10:04:37 AM »
What is your planed usage for this lens?

I have the 50 /1.4 but not the 40 /2.8.

However when it comes to DoF, the 50 /1.4 is a (slightly) longer lens and two full stops faster, that does give quite a big difference. You would notice. The 40 has less distortion BUT the wider angle causes problems with tight portraits. I have no idea if this is how you want to use the lens, but it´s kind of a warning.

My 1.4 however is seldom used at f 1.4 - 2.0 because of
- lack of contrast (and sharpness)
- DoF is thin and hard to controll and get the sharpness where I want it
- For weddings DoF is too short for portraits of bride + groom. For a single person portrait, yes, its quite doable, but when they are both there, better step down to... 2.8. And then they play in the same league.

Since I cant comment on the 40, you´d better read some tests at photozone.de and/or the-digital-picture. Have a look at their test shoots to compare contrast and sharpness, they are very useful.

But a quick look sugests that there is not much of a difference in terms of sharpness when stopped down a bit.
And... the 40 is quite a bit cheaper.

Im sorry that I perhaps did not make it easier for you... but I would not use the 50 /1.4 @ 1.4 unless absolutely needed, to me it´s a f/2 lens. And as I said, I usually use it even further stopped down, so then they are about the same, but one is cheaper.

24
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon 40D to 5D Classic. Good upgrade?
« on: June 28, 2013, 04:45:45 AM »
Going from 40D to 5Dc, is it a good upgrade? Well, for portraits @low iso then yes, it´s a great upgrade and a 5DIII would not do any better, not even for printing really big.  For landscapes, you need resolution if your landscape is very detailed and you want to print big and let the viewers come close.

What do you want to photograph?

25
Third Party Lenses (Sigma, Tamron, etc.) / Re: Samyang 14mm f2.8
« on: June 28, 2013, 01:21:58 AM »
"Could you take a night exposure of distant, dim city lights, or else stars, (or even something inside your house) closed to f/3.5, and post side and top/bottom border crops at 100% sometime?  Place or frame, small light sources near the borders..."

I can give it a go. Luckily I moved south in Sweden so it does get dark at night even in the summer. Or well it gets rather dark, not pitch black. At least for two or three hours in the middle of the night... I´m not sure what to look for, so perhaps I´d just send som raw files instead of posting?


Oooo the greens.. I love the "spring greens" They are so full of life. So vibrant in their rather pale tone. Just as you say, high summer greens are more dull. Darker, not so alive. And it´s stressfull because I only have a few weeks to get all the spring images, then I have to wait for a whole year to get a new chance.

26
Third Party Lenses (Sigma, Tamron, etc.) / Re: Samyang 14mm f2.8
« on: June 27, 2013, 02:53:34 PM »
Agreed. The point of the first shot was only to show the distortion. The greens, well, perhaps. It´s a quick and dirty job and I should really return next spring with more than 5 minutes to stay... Or this fall perhaps? The location has greater potential than my photographic skills.

27
Third Party Lenses (Sigma, Tamron, etc.) / Re: Samyang 14mm f2.8
« on: June 26, 2013, 03:26:23 PM »
It´s a fun lens. My copy is great. I use it quite a bit stopped down to get best results and a huge DoF. That way the focusing is less critical.

The distortion is rahter hefty and it can cause problems like in the first of my photos. In most cases it is not an issue for my usage.

Sure, if the Canon 14 L was only twice as expensive as the Samyang, I would probably get the Canon but right now there is absolutely no reason for me to invest in the L. I´m awaiting the rumored superultrawidezoom however, that will be interesting (and probably too expensive the first and second year).


28
Canon General / Re: How ready is your camera gear usually?
« on: June 24, 2013, 07:08:50 PM »
Camera and lenses would be ready in 1 minute but (ofc. spare batteries and cards always ready) but to actually get it all in the car would take another 1-2 minute. Then if lightstands, flashes and such gear is needed, another few minutes. So usually 5 minutes is needed. For getting coffee in the thermos and all clothes on for winter photography, add another 10 minutes.


29
Something tells me I will get the 50 /1.2 L next. I have cravings for that lens. Seriously though I should get the 85 /1.2 since I really like that focal length way more. But then again, the 85 /1.8 is a great lens and I don´t feel the need to upgrade.

So, the 24-70 would be nice if I was do to more weddings next year but honestly, two bodies and 35 /1.4 L + 85 /1.8 got me covered nicely most of the time. Or 17-40 L  + 70-200 /4 L IS.
The 70-200 /2.8 II L IS would be nice for weddings aswell, but the 120-300 /2,8 OS HSM surprised me with its portraiture qualities so I can´t justify the 70-200 II.

Ehm what else? Actually the 14 /2.8 may be the lens that adds most to my kit at the moment, but the Samyang 14 /2.8 I have is surprisingly good so..I´ not sure.

That leaves me with the rumored 14-24. That would probably be it. But it is not on the market so...

No lens for me :(

30
Canon General / Re: Desired fantasy gear
« on: May 20, 2013, 09:27:49 AM »
I would love a body with option of full frame and crop with the flick of a switch.
This fantasy stems from something I read in this forum earlier. Was it a Nikon camera?
I do not know Nikon gear at all so not sure.

But something like this would be great for me. Advantages of FF and crop in the same body! While we are at it, let the crop have even faster frame rate.

I believe the Nikon D800 has this. It effectively becomes a built in TC. I would love that too.

You could create an action in photoshop to autocrop your photos from the centre of the frame by 1.5 times and there you go. Problem solved.
However the "higher framerate"-function when less pixels are used is interesting (but not for me). I would like to go in another direction though - less noise! Use 25% of the pixels and reduse the noise by 50% or something by grouping the pixels together 2 by 2 or something, letting those 4 pixels simulate 1 larger pixel. THAT would be an interesting "crop" mode for me (although it would not be a crop mode since it would not crop, it would  be high sensitivity, low resulution mode). I have no need for faster framerates (however I understand that other photographers may need all the FPS they can get.)

22 mpix to use at low ISOs
11 mpix to use at high ISOs
6 mpix to use at superhigh ISO.

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