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Has anyone doing sports ever printed a poster size photo of a player in action, or just plain made a poster? I need to make a few this fall of some players, and was wondering if the 1D Mark IV's 16mp (uncropped) will be enough or the 1D X's 18. I was thinking maybe I should pre-plan the poster shots and shoot them with a 5D Mark III? Has anyone done this? Thanks.You should be fine. How large a poster?
Yep, that's the way I understand it. Sending mine back tomorrow (about $15) and Canon grip arriving tomorrow (more than $15!).According to PIXEL, the battery drain problem has already been solved. This problem happened in a particular batch of goods only. The currently produced ones do not have this problem. If yours has this problem, you may exchange it with PIXEL authorized dealers in your country.
My Pixel that just arrived 2 days ago has the drain problem still. The problem is far from over, as Pixel resellers apparently are still shipping the problem units.
Where is a Pixel "authorized dealer" in United States? I'm not aware of any, and my understanding is we are forced to pay for return shipping to China/HK to receive a replacement.
True. Just sayin'.Yes indeed, the 5D3 is good for sports. I had the 5D3 on AI Servo for these two shots, with an off-centre cross-type AF point, and it did very well. These riders were heading directly into my position (~20-30km/h) and the camera did well to stay in focus.Yes, but they are underexposed. At least appear to be looking on my tablet.
Probably not the camera. To combat that problem, and I run into often in daytime sports, I can spot meter on the person, and use EC if need be. It just depends. That photo looks like evaluative or center-weighted average. Nothing to do with the 5D Mark III.
Yes indeed, the 5D3 is good for sports. I had the 5D3 on AI Servo for these two shots, with an off-centre cross-type AF point, and it did very well. These riders were heading directly into my position (~20-30km/h) and the camera did well to stay in focus.Yes, but they are underexposed. At least appear to be looking on my tablet.
I have had my mark III for about two weeks now and have been shooting a lot of hummingbird and macro shots. My previous camera was a 40d which I thought took excellent pictures.... that is until now! While I still think it takes great pictures, the 5d is just amazing. I was really worried about losing the crop factor for some pics, especially the birds. However, the Mark III more than makes up for this with it's low light capability and the substantial bump in resolution. I have been amazed at how much I can crop some of my full frame pics and they remain excellent. I am getting shots now that I never dreamed of with the 40d, and the 61 point autofocus, don't even get me started on how much I already love that! Anyone with a crop body that has concerns about upgrading and losing the crop factor, don't worry about it if you upgrade to the Mark III. I can't pick up my 40d anymore, it just can't compare. I was going to keep it so I would have two bodies, but I'm starting to think that it may go and I may buy another full frame, possibly a Mark II.I don't understand why you say center AF point only and spot meter? I use M mode for indoor sports and would use whichever AF point +8 surrounding points.
It's actually great for sports too. You have to use center AF point, but set it to spot metering, Tv= 1/500 to 1/800, Av= 6.3, ISO = Auto. It's pretty good in an indoor gym at those settings with decent DOF and sufficient shutter speed to stop action. A few of my shots went to ISO 12,800 but it didn't matter because I applied NR post processing and it looked fine.
Wasn't something coming (end of May was it?, End of June?) that was supposed to add features and improve image quality under some circumstances?There's an update on the main page from Friday if you had bothered to look.
I wonder what happened to that firmware upgrade. Was it subsumed by all the chatter about the black AF points?
-wick
Yes, it's the same behavior. I do fairly well with the black AF point, but I do lose it sometimes when shooting HS football, which is always in the dark. Of course, that was center AF point only. With the multiple, usable AF points of the 5D3, that just adds difficulty to keeping the correct point on the subject.I use a 5D and a 20D, and I always use them in AI-servo. I shoot from weddings to airshows. The unlit points have never even crossed my mind. Is there something about the cameras in question that makes this an issue on them where it's not on my 5D and 20D?
It's that the currently selected one is not even shown in red, even if it switches in AI Server or even in One Shot. It'll be black, focus confirm blinks it red then back to black, and then stays black.
Isn't that what my 5D and 20D do as well? I'm trying to figure out why this bothers anyone when I've shot >100,000 shots with mine with never a thought. Do the points look different when unlit on these newer cameras than they do on mine?
which is just like my 50D. Was really hoping to stay red on this one. Looking forward to a fix!I use a 5D and a 20D, and I always use them in AI-servo. I shoot from weddings to airshows. The unlit points have never even crossed my mind. Is there something about the cameras in question that makes this an issue on them where it's not on my 5D and 20D?
It's that the currently selected one is not even shown in red, even if it switches in AI Server or even in One Shot. It'll be black, focus confirm blinks it red then back to black, and then stays black.
What I meant was, for him to have ultra wide on the 7D, he would need an EF-S lens. Of course, once he gets a FF camera, he'll have to replace that lens. In other words, the 14 and 16-35 are not ultrawide on the 7D because of the loss of the FOV.You pretty much have to go EF-S to get the ultra wide range (10-22), but your other lenses you can make do with EF lenses such as the 24-105 (though 24 isn't very wide on a crop).
For ff there is:
14mm
16-35
Plus of course the 8-15 fisheye.
AF-C has no advantage over ff for ultra wide lens
Since you're planning on going full frame so soon, I would minimize the EF-S lenses as they won't work on that FF camera and you'll be buying lenses again at the same time you're buying the FF camera. You pretty much have to go EF-S to get the ultra wide range (10-22), but your other lenses you can make do with EF lenses such as the 24-105 (though 24 isn't very wide on a crop).Hey guys! I'm new to this forum and new to Photography. I've always loved taking pictures of landscape,cars,people, and just random stuff. Lol So I decided that it's time for me to grab a decent DSLR.
I'm completely new to DSLR's and photography. Still doing a lot of reading and learning on which camera I should go with. Based on the stuff I've read and learned I'm leaning towards getting the 7D. But I'm concerned that when I get the 7D now couple of months later down the road the new rumored 7D MKII comes out.
So my question is should I wait for the 7D MKII (why?) or I should just get the 7D?
There is no guarantee from Canon that there will even be a 7DmkII - nobody really knows. It is also anyone's guess when Canon plans to introduce a new APS-C sensor.
What would interest me is why you particularly want the 7D? If you don't have specific needs to shoot sports or to use the camera in an environment where a sealed body and lenses are needed, you could look at a 60D, which has the same sensor, or even a 650D. I would possibly rather put the difference in price between the 7D and the 60D into a good lens, which will possibly yield a better return than a higher end body.
The reason I want the 7D over the 60D/650D is because of its weather sealing and also its faster. My family travels a lot thats why I want the rigid and weather sealed body of the 7D.
The things I want to take pictures of are landscape, fast moving things (cars going around the track), and just random stuff. lol its mostly going to be cars and landscape.
As far as Lenses go I'm not quite sure of what I need for the stuff I want to shoot. I do plan on upgrading to a 5D later on just not sure when tho.
Then by all means, The 7D is the body for you then as the MK2's AF isn't quite as good. Just pick up a 10-22mm as well. A very good lens.
I plan on buying that lens also the 17-55.
or should I be getting L lenses instead? I do plan on upgrading later on on a 5D body but not for the next 2 yrs. or so.
That's any lens, not just L lenses.I'm happy with my 7D. I had bought the 5DMKII and returned it (wasn't for me). I still plan on upgrading to full frame eventually, but in the interim my kit keeps me going.
For traveling, I get by with the 7D, 24-105 and the 10-22. I can fit them all in a relatively small bag. The 24-105 is used most often (say 80%) and the 10-22 the rest of the time.
I have a 70-200 2.8 (non IS) for the telephoto stuff. I don't do too much of that since the lens is really big and heavy and I don't much care for lugging it around with everything else when you are out on your feet for 8-10 hours.
I have a 50 1.4 (never use it but it is a staple) and just bought the 40mm which I still haven't tried yet.
The one nice advantage though of say, getting a 5DMKII is getting it with the 24-105 and, at least for me, that would do me for 90% of the type of shots I would take and would save having to carry around an additional lens.
do you loose something by using the L lens on a crop body?
the lenses you have are the same lenses I plan on having down the road!
You lose a large portion of the field of view from the lens. Thats why FF doesn't have a "crop factor".
