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Messages - tron

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1096
Lenses / Re: What's your dream lens
« on: December 05, 2012, 01:52:18 PM »
EF 24 1.4 III L USM (without the horrible corner performance and coma and CA like v2)
Rumor has it that only EF24mm 1.4L IV will exhibit these capabilities...   ::)

1097
Lenses / Re: What's your dream lens
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:28:08 AM »
I used to laugh when I was reading about a 135mm f/1.8L IS as my 135mm f/2.0 L is superb!

But lately I am wishing for a 135mm f/2.0L IS...   ::)

1098
Lenses / Re: What's your dream lens
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:24:35 AM »
Ex. 1mm-5200mm f1.2 is usm STM p an cake...lol :)
You forgot to add: L, Macro, TS-E  ;D  ;D  ;D

1099
Canon General / Re: Is it worth it...for me?
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:22:29 AM »
At minimum get a body that supports AFMA ...

1100
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D3 continuous shooting speed
« on: December 05, 2012, 07:15:56 AM »
2 days ago while I was taking test photos with my 5D3 to check AFMA I noticed that the battery was well below 50%. I remembered this thread and switched to continuous high. The sound was like 5 to 6 frames per second. This has been confirmed when I used the info button to check which pictures had been taken the same second. I counted 5 but this is an approximation (there is no tenth's of a second granularity). I repeated the test when the battery indicator was a little more than 10% and the sound seemed the same. So I believe that my camera behaves OK.

1101
5 lenses I do have:

TS-E 17mm L
TS-E 24mm L II
EF35mm 1.4L
EF135mm 2.0L
EF300mm F4L  (non-IS)

Alternatively for traveling purposes I would replace the 135 and the 300 with 70-200 IS (either f/4L for maximum portability or 2.8L II for lower light use or background separation).

1102
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III Tips, Tricks & Settings
« on: December 03, 2012, 10:40:06 AM »
Is it possible to get it to meter using the selected AF point instead of the center of the frame?
Nope unfortunately not thats the realms of 1D bodies only
You can use evaluation metering so as to take into account the focusing point and weight it more. But YES, it will NOT be exactly the same. You do have to use 1D series for what you want.

1103
EOS Bodies / Re: When will we have a full frame body below $1,000?
« on: December 02, 2012, 09:21:38 PM »
At the end of 2012 Noisy 1600 top ISO FF camera and 8Mpixel at the same time! Wow, someone has very vivid imagination  :o


1104
Tran,
The Leica M 240 is the new Leica (people were calling it the M10 before it was released).
24 MP CMOS sensor with no AA filter + live view and focus peaking + external EVF via hot shoe.

The thing is, while high end DSLRs can approach the IQ of the M system, they require careful matching of lens to body.
D800E + Nikon 50mm 1.2 or Zeiss 50 is being touted as "close" to M9 + Summicron 50 but you also have the weight and bulk to consider.

I hate shooting street in dangerous places where Canon or Nikon shouts cop/reporter to the locals and I have to rush shots or get the hell out of the area quickly (and yes, I have used 5D MK3 + 40mm pancake but it is still too awkward for me).
This hasn't happened when I shoot with the Fuji.

If Fuji had a FF equivalent, I'd go with it but right now there is only Leica or this new Sony in the small FF game.

ET
Whatever suits you. I just mentioned  the latest M bodies. I do hope that their shutter is inaudible. I think that was the case with the old ones. But it's just a thought I have no personal experience. An inaudible shutter is very helpful for street  photography. I agree that the size factor is important here. Leicas, Fuji X-Pro 1 and the new Sony do indeed have the advantage here. I would prefer the Fuji system for the cheaper price relatively to Leica and the exchangeable lenses relative to Sony. But I guess if Sony looks like a small compact it is even a better stealth camera.

1105
Lenses / Re: Advice 5d3, wide angle
« on: November 30, 2012, 07:21:13 PM »
I wish I could say "Go for the uber sharp 14-24L", but..  :'(

The 17-40 is rubbish, and the 16-35 is more of a workhorse for photojurnalists. Sharp at the center but lousy edges and corners.

If I were you, I would go for the Zeiss 21mm, or for the 17mm or 24mm TS-E.

Personally, I'm waitng for canon to release a better UWA-zoom for landscapers. I don't care if it is 14-24, 16-35 or 17-40. I just want it to be razor sharp across the whole frame.

+1....razor sharp at f2.8 + IS for handheld slow shooting.
I used to wish that, but then, I woke up.

Now I have all 3 mentioned primes. I bought one every year for the last 3 years.

1106
Lenses / Re: tilt-shift question
« on: November 30, 2012, 07:06:34 PM »
I think I'd be tempted to get a pano setup that I can use for all my lenses rather than something that is so specific.  A pano setup would also allow one to get an AOV wider than the shift limits of a lens.
+1 That's why although I am aware of the TSE collar I didn't get it. It's much better to spend the money on a generic solution.

1107
Lenses / Re: tilt-shift question
« on: November 30, 2012, 01:09:03 PM »
Actually, apparently you're supposed to shift the camera, not the lens.
Yes but to do that the lens and NOT the camera must be steady. So the lens has to be fixed to a tripod somehow. In order to do that you need a special Canon TSE Tripod Collar from HARTBLEI.

See: http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm

However, it is very expensive and there is something that is often neglected. If you shift a lot you will reduce the sharpness in one side (if you shift close to lens shift limit). In addition, depending on the aperture it may cause vignetting (although this is less of the problem since a closed aperture will probably be used).

1108
Landscape / Re: Beautiful sunsets
« on: November 30, 2012, 09:40:43 AM »
+1.  I am less than impressed with the noise on my 5DIII. I find the 22mpx enough for me, but expected far better low noise performance. Using Topaz denoise doesn't help much either. OTOH the problem is probably behind the Camera.
Cheers

Here is an example 1/4000s, 400mm F5.6 ISO4000, its easy to see in the two squares. Now thats
at ISO4000, so obviously at anything higher its worse. In this case when I tried Topaz denoise
(the example here is the BEFORE state) it worked pretty well.

So, is this too much noise? And its not in the darkest parts

CHeers
Those settings don't make any sense to me... and why is the bird & his wing not frozen at 1/4000?  And not in focus at f/5.6 with a focal length of 400mm?   

I may be wrong, but shooting this at 1/1600th, f/3/2 since it's 400mm focal length, and iso 100 - 400 depending on time of day,  seems like could be a quick and easy solution to take care of all your noise problems, to me anyway...   At ISO 4000, you're just asking for issues IMHO... No offense intended... :)
I like both sharpness and ...noise (It does not seem bad for ISO4000, but that's me). However, is this a screen capture at 100% from DPP? DPP uses the jpg file for high quality view as far as I have found so actually the noise is higher in raw.


1109
If you are willing to pay the astronomical amount that M system costs go for it. But since this is a major invesment maybe you could check for the newly announced Leica's (either type 240 or 220).

1110
Lenses / Re: tilt-shift question
« on: November 30, 2012, 09:18:50 AM »
I am looking to purchase either the TS-E 17mm or the TS-E 24mm.

I'm greatly leaning towards the 24mm. First, I already have the 14mm L II  for when I need something super wide. Second, I also like the idea of being able to use filters without having to buy into a Corkin or Lee system.

Can anyone with experiences with these two lenses give me any feedback or suggestions?

Thank you in advance!
No matter which of the two you choose you will enjoy the results. Unfortunately you will wish the other one too  ::)

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