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Messages - BumpyMunky

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16
PowerShot / Re: G15 Sync-speed. What is the limit?
« on: February 19, 2013, 01:07:01 AM »

Well, due to the lack of response, I'll tell you my closest (non-G15) setup that has worked for me.

Using an old Minolta DiMage 7i, I've triggered my Phottix Strato II's, via PC sync cord adapted from the camera's hotshoe.   That camera maxes out at 1/2000 on manual, and was triggering an old manual flash attached to the Strato receiver.  Caught the flash in frame each time, and because it's electronic shutter, full coverage.    I had the same success triggering the remote flash with an optical slave using the built-in flash ( 1/16 manual, as any TTL type pre-flash will pop the slave too early).   

The old flash may have a fairly long burn time -- I don't know and don't have the tools to measure it.  I didn't have my 580 handy, but if you are interested, I can redo the test with it on lowest power (shortest flash duration), to see if they still sync.   It's my understanding that studio strobes are generally slower (the light is on for longer) than speedlights, so I think in this case, it may be a benefit, if the timing isn't exact.

I don't think there will be much issue having your camera trip the triggers.  If it'll fire a canon flash, it should fire a trigger.  Actually, delay that.  Googling found this about the G12: http://www.flickr.com/groups/1088996@N21/discuss/72157628714843327/   Possible pit-fall #1, (at least with a possible solution).

I think the other pit-fall would be around any delays introduced by the trigger.   At slower shutter speeds, there is clearly a longer window during which the flash pulse can happen.   The faster the shutter speed, the smaller that window.  If the trigger system delays the 'flash now' signal long enough, your flash would fire after the shutter is closed. 

Failing someone posting info with your exact setup, my suggestion is to find a G15 somewhere (friend, store) and introduce it to your triggers and a speedlight and try it out.

17
EOS Bodies / Re: An EOS 3D Mention [CR1]
« on: January 17, 2013, 12:11:35 PM »
now this is a canon 3d!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/alexturton/6942558872/#

:P

Ok, lets be serious for a minute.  This MUST be photoshopped, and can't be the Canon 3D for the following reasons:

  • the mounts are too close together to mount most lenses
  • there is no lens release button for the camera-right lens mount, unless they figure someone is going to juggle simultaneous lens ejections [wait, that didn't sound right...]
  • the tag on the body says 7D mark II.

18
5D MK III Sample Images / Re: Moonbow!
« on: October 30, 2012, 11:20:35 AM »
Is there a hot pixel up there ?

In the business, we call those stars.  ;-)

Cool moonbow!   The brightest 'star' actually may be Jupiter! The fainter point to the lower left of it should be Aldebaran.

19
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon EOS 4D reference in Wifi remote app video
« on: September 20, 2012, 12:29:33 PM »
it's all about the 6D (and the 7D, which is pretty interesting actually).

Re: 7D.  I thought so too.   My first thought was that it would be done via the WFT, but that exists for other higher-end bodies as well.  Why would they pick the 7D for the promo, and not the 1D-X (for 5D3) for example?   Maybe they figure a Wifi app isn't "pro" enough for those owners...  Like the cost of the WFTs isn't enough discouragement.

That, or there's a new 7D in the works with integrated Wifi.....    :P

20
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 5D3 Second Curtain Sync - Design Flaw?
« on: September 09, 2012, 02:16:01 AM »

One of the things she's asked for are some special effects shot with sparklers, like this:

http://www.sparklersonline.com/blog/www-sparklersonline-com-3/wedding-sparkler-photo-tutorial/

Reading through that tutorial, the shot calls for second curtain sync.  And I am familiar enough with flash photography to understand why that is the preferred technique.

I don't think you actually need 2nd curtain for these shots.   Second curtain prevents things like tail-light streaks from going through cars when doing long exposure w/flash of moving cars (or of any movement where direction is important), but for the sparkler thing, when the flash happens isn't that important as long as you know when it will flash.

Both pictures in that article actually appear to be done first curtain to me.   Otherwise, (with the first one) they'd need to have written the word backwards to be at the front when the (2nd curtain) flash fired (or use an assistant to write after the pose, but before the flash).  What I think they did was pose for the shot with a lit sparkler, open the shutter (with 1st curtain flash), and then wrote the word, closing the shutter (w/o flash) at the end.    The second pic doesn't matter so much, as it could have been done both ways:
With 1st curtain: pose, open(flash), mess with sparkler, close(no flash). 
With 2nd curtain: open(no flash), mess with sparkler, pose, close(flash).

If there is too much ambient light, the poses would need to be held throughout the exposure, with assistants doing the writing.  If flash is the only light on subject, they only need to be in position for the flash part of the exposure.

I'd probably shoot these with first curtain.   It just seems easier.  Keep in mind that some subjects (most, in my experience) have no idea what a long exposure is, and associate the sight of a flash as being 'the picture'.  It can help to let them know what you're doing so they 'perform' when needed, and not spoil the shot.

(BTW, I agree that hiding the curtain controls from non-Canon flashes is silly)


21
Lighting / Re: TTL + remote simultaneously?
« on: September 06, 2012, 07:28:53 PM »
As Mt. Spokane says, one must be careful with this configuration.  If the manual flashes illuminate the subject at all, the exposure will be increased by that amount.   If none of the manuals are on subject however (ie: background gels, etc) this mixed setup can work quite well.   This presumes the manual flash triggering method ignores the (E)TTL preflash like many optical triggers don't. 

I use this setup with Phottix Stratos on remote manual flashes and my 580EXII in the hotshoe.

23
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon EOS M & EF 800 f/5.6L IS
« on: July 25, 2012, 01:45:58 PM »
I wonder how well the tripod mount on the EF-EOSM adapter would hold up to that??  :D

24
Site Information / Re: In Sympathy for CR Guy
« on: July 18, 2012, 01:34:10 PM »
Love and light to you and your family.

25

Not quite what you're asking for, but If you haven't seen this, it may be a start:

http://www.canonrumors.com/tech-articles/fd-fl-lenses-on-your-ef-body/

A Leica body sounds closest to the controls you speak of, but an FD to Leica mount adapter would be needed.  I know nothing about their quality though.

26
Canon General / Re: Lens Focusing
« on: December 29, 2011, 03:33:21 AM »
One lens i am fairly sure that doesn't have this is the 50mm f1.4 which i think you have to be carefull to not hold the focus ring when using AF

Not to stray too much, but the 50 1.4 still has full-time manual (FTM) focusing (it may in fact, be the only micro-motor USM that does).  It's the 50 1.8 that doesn't have FTM.

See:
http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/standard/ef_50_14_usm.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EF_lens_mount#Ultrasonic_Motor_drive

Basically, with FTM, you can manually focus regardless of what position the AF/MF switch is in. 

If the lens doesn't support FTM, moving the focus ring while the lens is in AF mode (or conversely, preventing the ring from rotating when the AF is trying to focus the lens) can damage the focus motors and/or gears.   The noise that happens when this is attempted is usually enough to cure one from doing it again.

27
EOS Bodies / Re: *UPDATE* How to Lose $2400 in 24 Seconds
« on: December 01, 2011, 08:29:47 PM »
marketing, but the service from B&H is pretty good even for overseas customers

And apparently, for their underseas customers too.   :P

[sorry, couldn't resist]

28
Software & Accessories / Re: Need a Good Card Reader
« on: November 30, 2011, 02:14:26 PM »
An argument against using a card reader is that the pins in the camera connecting to the CF card have a finite life.  If they get bent, the camera's useless and you have an expensive repair job on your hands.  If you use the USB connection and it goes wrong, you can still use a card reader.

I've never had this problem with a body, but with cheap card readers all the time.  My first CF reader was an old Sandisk ImageMate. Worked very well for years until the USB interface went wonky, but the physical CF interface was solid.  A number of cheap readers don't have a deep enough (or tight enough) cavity, and if the card slops around on the way in, bent pins almost every time.  A couple of the pins are longer (ground pins I guess) and those typically are the ones that bend.  Not too much of a deal to straighten with a jewellers screwdriver, but a pain if it happens a lot.

My latest CF readers are the Lexar USB 3.0 dual readers.  Like the Sandisk (and any CF body I've used, for that matter), a deep and solid cavity, and the card slides in positively every time.

29
EOS Bodies / Re: How often do you go through a body? Why do you upgrade?
« on: November 29, 2011, 07:38:11 PM »
1988: Minolta SR T-101 w/ 50 1.7 and 135 2.8.
Why? Inherited.  Better than my Kodak 110  ;D

2003: Minolta Dimage 7i (not SLR, but SLR-like) 
Why? First digital for instant feedback.  First kid.

2008: Canon 40D w/ 17-85 and 70-200 f4           
Why? First DSLR for better DoF, faster focus, higher resolution.  Second kid.

2012: ? ? ? ?                                                         
Why? better ISO and video.  No more kids.

With each body/camera, I've probably taken 100x more pictures than the previous.  Still not 100x better though, so I'm working on that.   :)

Since the 40D though, I've acquired a 50 1.4, a 17-55 2.8, a 580ex2 and a bit of off-camera flash gear. 

So much fun.

30
Lens Giveaway Contest / Re: *Contest* Creative Lighting - Post Here.
« on: November 14, 2011, 01:30:14 AM »
In the dark, with a white LED flashlight and a red laser pointer

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