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Messages - bbasiaga

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136
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: DSLR and zoom lens for ~$1,000.00 USD?
« on: August 28, 2012, 10:11:20 PM »
+1 on the T3i/18-135 kit.  Great walk around range in a single lens, and much better IQ than a P&S.  I'd get that, and then see what focal range you like to shoot in.  Add a nice prime that you can use for more formal shots, maybe a 35 F2, shorty 40, 50 1.8 or 85 1.8, depending on what you end up liking.

-Brian

137
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Sony A99 Rumored Specs "Leak"
« on: August 28, 2012, 11:20:08 AM »

So....the entile screen is filled with dotssssssssssssssssssssssss ;D

LOL...have to focus with live view b/c you can't actually see through the viewfinder because of all the AF points. 

138
Lenses / Re: 70-200 2.8 + 2x teleconverter vs 100-400
« on: August 28, 2012, 11:17:30 AM »
...and a huge price tag on the new 100-400 too.

I'd look at it this way:  if you are only an occasional shooter at longer than 200mm...then use the TC and save your money.  If you like to do a lot of longer stuff, get the dedicated lens.  Remember that using that TC on any of your other lenses slower than 2.8 renders autofocus inoperable (unless you've got a 1Dmk2,3,4)...so it may not be as versatile as you think.  And really, if you are going to have 70-400 covered already, what other lens are you going to put that TC on anyway? 

-Brian

139
Another thing toconsider is the black body radiation of your gear after dark.  If the temp gets close to the dew point, your gear will drop just a fractionbelow as it radiates a very small part of its heat off in to space.  As an astrophotographer myself, Ihave run in to dew problems myself.  To combat it, the most fool prof thing is to vet some dew heaters, basically a fancier version of the hot pads mentioned above.  Astrozap is a companythat used to make them.  Serch around and youlk find a few options.  If you turn them on at the start of your session they keep you from getting close to or below the dew point.   

Another thing would be to use your lens hood,  Those who use telescopes tend to use dew shields which arebasically hoods ffor telescopes.  They keep the air next to the objective stagnant and therefore pdevent it from cooling down as fast.  They also reduce the radiation heat loss.  With telescopes the light cone is very steep and therefore the hood can be longer, but your lens hood should help some. 

-Brian

140
Lenses / Re: Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Firmware Available
« on: August 21, 2012, 04:33:00 PM »
Thanks for the idea to rent a body to do the firmware update.  I want to grab one of these lenses soon, and am assuming that what is in stock now is probably the old firmware.  My newest body is a 40D, so I'll have to see if I can get my local camera shop to help me out with with the update.  Maybe I can give them $20 for 10minutes use of one of their bodies. 

-Brian

141
I don't have a 5dIII, but i seem to recall reading that the camera can also be set to save the individual raws when using its built in HDR function.

-Brian

142
Portrait / Re: 50mm f1.4 group photo
« on: August 16, 2012, 08:50:59 AM »
I think the problem is that you are using a 5DIII, which if you read enough threads on CR, you'll learn is a terrible camera. And that you aren't using an L lens. All non L lenses are total rubbish an should only be used as doorstops. You need a 50mm f/1.2L and NEVER use it at any other setting besides f/1.2! Just focus on one person's most interesting eyelash- Who cares about the rest. I need to see some bokeh!

Um, just kidding. I think lots of people covered possible fixes. Shallow DOF + slow shutter speeds + moving subjects = tough.

You forgot to mention that this photo wasn't taken with a Nikon, and therefore had no chance for success from the beginning.  LOL! 

On a serious note, what is MFD for thr 50 1.4?  A lot of times as you approach that, the images get a little soft. 

-Brian

143
Lenses / Re: Best lense for bird shots
« on: August 14, 2012, 11:34:09 AM »
Sigma makes a 150-500 that sells here for about $1100 USD.  I tried one at my local camera shop and liked it.  I dont know about AF speed for birds though.  I don't shoot that so I wouldn't have a frame of reference.

-Brian


144
Lenses / Re: Upgrading Advice Appreciated
« on: August 14, 2012, 08:25:29 AM »
I've always wanted to try one of those super zooms.  I could see how there would definitely be a trade off in weight and IQ (to some extent).

I can vouch for the 70-200mm versatility on full frame.  I use the F4 L IS version and love it.  Light and easy to wield.  I did, however, miss the long end of 300mm on a crop.  So I eventually added a 100-400 F4.5-5.6L IS to the kit.  If you shop used you can get both of those for less than the 70-200 F2.8 L II and a 2x TC.  The 70-300L interests me as well, but the above post about visible CA is the first I've heard of any flaws.  I havent researched it thoroughly though. 

On the wide end, thr canon 17-40 F4 L does a great job, and is a lot cheaper than the 16-35.  With the awesome high ISO performance of the 5D Mk III I'd save the bucks on the lens if you decide to get a zoom in that range. 

-Brian

145
Lenses / Re: Verifying USM / Af noise in Canon 24-105 L
« on: August 10, 2012, 05:05:19 PM »
Each lens has its own IS sound.  My 70-200F4L IS is very quiet.  When i got a 100-400 a few years later, it sounded like a freight train in comparison.

-Brian

146
EOS Bodies / Re: Another Spec List for the Entry Level Full Frame EOS
« on: July 25, 2012, 10:57:13 PM »


I'd be perfectly happy with a 1Dx sensor in a body with 60D build quality, if it came in under $2000.

That would be the best case for me too.  I hear folks speculate on Rebel type build...not sure I'd want that.  I'm too spoiled by the controls of the xD and xxD series.

-Brian

147
EOS Bodies / Re: Another Spec List for the Entry Level Full Frame EOS
« on: July 25, 2012, 03:40:10 PM »
I am confused - some are speculating the cost will be $2500.  Mark III is now selling for $150 less than MSRP.  If you are already shelling out $2500 bucks, wouldn't the marginal dollar difference work towards just getting the Mark III now and not having to wait half a year for a stripped down full frame?

I have an old Rebal Xsi and happened on this site when I wanted to learn more about my upgrade options.  I have waited for several months and I prefer to stay under $1K.  I am not happy with the t4i but still waiting to see how the mirrorless camera shoots video. 

On the other hand, I am thinking of getting a man purse and just going with the EOS-M.   

I think I started the $2500 thing - here is my thinking.  It would seem unlikely that Canon would sell a 'better' camera than the 5dMKII for less money.  We haven't seen any direct successors coming out cheaper than their replacements in quite a while.  So, they could further drop the price of the MKII to take that price slot over and therefore allow the successor to come in at the same price point.  Or, they could reduce the spec of the camera in a meaningful way to make the new price point make sense (plastic body?...what else could give?).  Or, they could introdue a slightly better successor at a higher price, say $2500. 

I'm purely speculating that the spec list shown seems too good to be true at $2000.  So in my hypothesis either the price is higher or there is something else that must give in the overall package to hit the price point.  Pure speculation.  I actually hope I'm wrong.  $2000 I can swing as a hobbyist (I've been saving for 3 years).  Much more and I'll have to wait until its used for that price. 

-Brian

148
EOS Bodies / Re: Another Spec List for the Entry Level Full Frame EOS
« on: July 25, 2012, 08:19:03 AM »
That is really exciting.  I'm looking for an upgrade to my 5D and/or 40D.  The only thing I suspect is that the $2000 price tag will be more like $2500 at launch.

-Brian

149
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX (possible) Ai Servo Issue
« on: July 19, 2012, 11:33:08 PM »
Obviously not an expert here, but I wonder if there is some pre-act/PID type algorithm in the AI servo software where by its reading info from the AF sensor and trying to 'predict' the motion of the target before it moves the lens to the focus point.  With no movement, it get no info, it makes no change....If there is just not enough light for it to accurrately calculate movement, the same outcome would occur as in these test cases where the target is not actually moving.

I have seen some behavior like this out of control loops in production facilities I have worked in.  Most of the time the software can be tuned to stop the issue.

-Brian


150
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon's Next Full Frame Camera [CR2]
« on: July 16, 2012, 08:39:15 AM »
Is the 19pt AF the one from the 7D?  I guess what I'm really asking is does the 7D have that many AF points? 

For me, this seems like the ideal upgrade from y 5Dc.  Sure, I'd love a 5dIII, but the bottom line is as an ameture that works maybe 4 jobs a year, I'm not going to be able to justify that cost.  Compared to the 5DII, this rumored list is a little more punch of an upgrade.  Though unless the pop up flash can act as a wireless controller i'd just as soon not have it.

-Brian

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