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Messages - Drizzt321

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616
Lenses / Re: What else can I do with my Canon 100mm Macro IS lens?
« on: June 04, 2013, 02:05:54 PM »
Nope, the 100mm Macro is a great lens for portraits as well. Macro simply means it has the capability of reproducing near or better than 100% of subject size. Not that it can only be used in those circumstances (barring things like a microscope). So, you can use it just like any other 100mm lens, with the added bonus that you know it's got very good optics, pretty good IS, and pretty sharp across the entire frame and can be used at up to 1:1 macro photography. Oh, and it's a reasonably fast lens which can give you shallow DoF if you want.
thanks  :)
quite happy to know i can use for portraits as well!

And something simple like using a different subject, just go out and do it! Costs basically nothing to point your lens at a different subject, so next time just go try it, and if you like the results do it. If you don't, try something slightly different until you decide you either it doesn't work for you, or you get something you like.

617
Lenses / Re: What else can I do with my Canon 100mm Macro IS lens?
« on: June 04, 2013, 01:03:49 PM »
Nope, the 100mm Macro is a great lens for portraits as well. Macro simply means it has the capability of reproducing near or better than 100% of subject size. Not that it can only be used in those circumstances (barring things like a microscope). So, you can use it just like any other 100mm lens, with the added bonus that you know it's got very good optics, pretty good IS, and pretty sharp across the entire frame and can be used at up to 1:1 macro photography. Oh, and it's a reasonably fast lens which can give you shallow DoF if you want.

618
That's what I thought Drizzt321 ... and if the focal plane shutter isn't being used we can sync at any speed !

Mirror would need to be locked up (or live view used), but i think it might work without compromising flash reach / distance ! :)

If your subject was moving so slowly that you could shoot it with the mirror locked up, why would you need a high speed shutter?

Erm...it's not that the subject is moving so slowly, is that you want to use a high shutter speed with a strobe/speedlite. Traditionally you were limited to the shutter sync speed or use high-speed sync. But high-speed sync generally (at least with standard Canon ETTL speedlites) reduces the power output substantially. If you want full power, you generally need a whole bunch of speedlites together, or some types of studio lighting.

If you remove the physical shutter from the equation, you basically have the entire sensor exposed all at once, then it's however long the electronic 'shutter' is that determines your sync speed. So you can sync at, say, 1/4000s at full flash power. Can be quite helpful to balance back lit subjects with fill flash, but having that fill-flash be at higher power to balance correctly with the back lighting.

619
Hi guys ...

I've just posted this question on the Magic Lantern Forum too :

http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6124.msg45493#msg45493

Basically, could Magic Lantern be enabled to allow high speed flash sync with outdoor fill flash ?

If the electronic shutter (in Live View Mode) is used instead of the standard focal plane shutter, could ML allow high speed sync with Canon portable guns at larger distances ?

Thoughts please ... and perhaps pass any useful comments on to ML thread too  ;D

I think you don't have a real understanding of what the sync-speed is. It's the the fastest shutter speed at which the entire sensor is being exposed before the 2nd curtain begins to travel across the frame. Since with faster shutter speeds only part of the sensor is exposed at any one time, what high-speed sync does is do a series of lower-power flashes (since a flash is normally a very short duration) so as the different parts of the sensor are exposed, the flash hits all parts of the sensor.

That being said, you do have a point that with an electronic shutter we could, theoretically, sync across just about any shutter speed. I think.

620
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Oops, opened CF card door too soon...
« on: June 03, 2013, 05:29:59 PM »
Looks like Lexar will replace/repair the card, so I guess no biggie. This would be good to know how to do some time, but for now, go Lexar!

Good for Lexar. Always nice to hear a company has some decent customer service/support.

These two links should more or less get you there if you are reasonably intelligent. For the CF card, you may need to delete any existing partitions on the device, and then create a new one.
http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/ht/disk-management-windows-7.htm
http://dashboardhelp.datarobotics.com/170/en/win/formatting_drives_using_windows_disk_management_utility_help.htm

621
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Oops, opened CF card door too soon...
« on: June 03, 2013, 04:09:29 PM »
Have you tried formatting it with a computer yet?

It tells me Windows was unable to format the card. Is there a specific file system I should use. I am just using the defaults that pop up... Capacity = 31.9MB (weird???), File System: FAT (also available is NTFS and exFAT) and Allocation unit size = Default.

You may need to go into Disk Management panel and re-partition the card to use up the entire available space.

622
Reviews / Re: what utter crap this is.... samyang 24mm TS
« on: June 03, 2013, 04:08:29 PM »
I have never used my 24 tse wider than F11 and can't really imagine a need to so

well you are only one person ... a very egocentric world view you have and you really lack imagination.   ::)

Quote
it's a very specialized lens, designed for architectural purposes which require large depths of field.

many photographer use it especially to REDUCE DOF.

i love my canon 24mm TS II for wedding photos with narrow DOF.
and for landscape photos with as much DOF as i can get.

don´t limit yourself because you think a lens is made for a specific purpose.

the samyang IQ is creap... i dont know who will pay 900 euro for this lens.
everyone would be doing better buying a used canon 24mm TS I.

I think you're going a bit far in the other direction saying it's complete crap. It's certainly not good until stopped down. But what about people like agierke who do stop down significantly? That $1000 or so can be a big deal to a lot of people, especially if they aren't making a significant living off of photography. Then of course, there are plenty of people (like you) who need to use it wide open, or need the maximum quality and so of course you opt for the Canon lens.

That said, I was really hoping the quality would be a lot better, and I'm re-thinking buying this lens eventually in favor of the Canon v2. Although I probably won't for a longer time, given the Canon cost and that I won't be using it a significant amount of time. Guess it's time to go play the lotto and cross my fingers...

623
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mk III RAW Video test in beautiful Big Sur
« on: June 03, 2013, 01:02:35 PM »
Nice job. I drove through there to Carmel for a weekend, then back down. Took me 9+ hours to get back to LA instead of 6 because I was stopping every 5-10 minutes to get another shot or two on my MF film camera. I'd love to go back through and camp and stay there like you guys did.

624
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: DSLR Video Questions.
« on: June 03, 2013, 11:44:23 AM »
My questions:
1.   Do I need another monitor besides the LCD on the camera to check focus etc?
Not 100% necessary, but useful. The more you focus pull the more necessary one will be.
You can view at upto 10x for the initial focus.  Eyepiece LCD viewfinders such as Zacuto are available as well

2.   Which is the best slider for price for DSLR?
sorry not my area - try Planet5D or similar websites
3.   Which is the best way to record audio? Do I record on camera or external recorder and sync using a slate? I have a BeachTek DXA-SLR available for free. Is it any good?
External recorder - you can sync then using a slate or software such as pluraleyze. can't comment on the Beachtek
4.   Should I use Magic Lantern software or original Canon RAW? If magic lantern, then which version?
Canopn does not record RAW Video. Regardless of whether you record RAW or not the Magic Lantern is recommended for the 5D3 (not available for the 1DX) for focus peaking etc.
5.   What is the ideal ISO for video? And if not ideal, what is the acceptable range for noise free work.
ISO160 or multiples thereof if required
6.   Is 1/50 the only shutter speed to work at or it does not matter?
You can set the Framerate in the camera - so depending on your output you would set the shutter speed at double that.
7.   Will my Imac be ok for the edit? I will not buy an Imac now until it is refreshed, but just want to prepare myself on the speed of edit.
Can't answer that - but I suspect it would be a little slow for RAW Video editing

Further - one Card ?? You will need several - or a stack of them if recording RAW Video....

ANY help is appreciated sincerely.

Thank you!


Thank you so so much.
This takes me to few other questions:
Which monitor should I buy which can stick on top of camera?
Which version of Magic Lantern? (I believe the latest is in testing)
I do not understand "set the frame rate in camera"
Yes, I need multiple cards. If I was working 12 hour days and recording 5-6 hours of RAW video, how many 32 GB cards does that translate into?
THANK YOU.

One thing to note is that the Magic Lantern RAW recording is currently unstable and not even available as a pre-built alpha. At the moment they highly recommend not using it for anything important. It's also only available on the 5d3, not the 1DX, so make sure you take 1 or 2 backup cameras just in case. You'll also only get ~6 minutes per 32GB from what I hear, so you'll need a huge stack of them, and lots of external HDD to make 2 copies after each day. If you shoot 6 hours of video per day, you'll be over 2TB of total space which is 68 32GB cards. Due to not filling up the entire card, you'll probably need 75-80 cards to be safe. Then you need to download each and ever card to 2 separate HDD, which means you'll be burning using 2 3TB drives a day (although you can use the extra space left over for the next day).

I know you said need professional results as opposed to lighter weight, but why not go with the Canon C500 which offers a RAW output mode. I think you need an external recorder to record in RAW, but it'll be with fully supported workflows, and it's not a huge camera from what I understand, only slightly larger than the 1D style body. Plus you can have your EF lenses as well on it.

For any field needs, your iMac will likely struggle for any RAW files, even the fully supported C500 RAW files. Even if you max out the RAM, the CPU is going to be fairly old, especially compared to the new Intel CPUs that are just about released. If you insist, you might want to look at a small PC with a top end CPU and decent graphics OpenCL/CUDA card with gobs of RAM that you can use to convert the RAW footage to ProRes or whatever you're preferred editing format is. And don't forget your backup requirements for that, which will be just as substantial as the RAW footage.

So all in all, you'll need a car-load of hard drives to cart around all of your RAW footage, a small cluster of fast (but can be small) machines to convert all that to a format that can be edited. And then you actually need to edit all that footage, which you'll ideally need something quite a bit newer than your current iMac.

Or...you can use the 1DC/C100/C300/C500 with their higher quality 1080p compressed output which will save yourself a ton of hassle, save a ton of space for required backups, and still have great quality for your needs. You probably should still have a better machine, but the one you have is more likely to manage OK.

625
...working with the DNGs in Lightroom is still really useful though. I find it much easier to tweak and do cool stuff....
I also like using Lightroom better, but some people have reported that using Lightroom with 2012 calibration can cause flicker as it appears to apply some tweaks on an individual image basis.
@LetTheRightLensIn
Please keep us updated with your findings/thoughts on the color management/workflow! Thanks :)

Yeah I am noticing that for certain clips it (ACR 2012 whether through LR or PS apparently since you mention LR and I use PS) does introduce flicker. For now I pretend it is a flickering film projector ;).

Not having use the 5d3 raw or anything, but couldn't you go into Library module in Lightroom and make the individual frames fairly small (I'm guessing they're displayed as an entire set of individual raw images) and just scroll through them quickly to see if there are any that have significantly different exposure to find those flickers?

626
I rented a 6d and am 90% sure I will have one of my own in the next week or 2 to be a backup body for my 5d3.    the one thing that kind of disappointed me with the wifi, and kind of potentially ruins one of my plans with it is --  for weddings I had had the idea to set it up in an area I can only access before the ceremony (like behind the altar).  The problem is after like 5-10 minutes of not being in use the camera and phone lose connection and there is no way to reestablish the connection without direct access to the camera.  It can still be done, set up, then just make sure to snap a shot every minute to keep the connection active.

Another valid point.  Have you tried changing the Auto Power Off setting?  You have a lot choices there, including never shutting off.  I haven't tried that, but I suspect it should keep the camera live and thus the connection on during that time. 

BTW, that is a very clever idea and use for the Wi-Fi connection, particularly considering you can you change DOF and lighting on the fly.

I forget the name of the device, but there's a thing floating around that connects via USB and supports a variety of remote control functions. Sounds pretty analogous to the 6D + WiFi + Canon Remote app for anyone who doesn't have a 6D or can't use their phone (non-Android, non-iPhone user here).

I think turning off the auto-power off might do the trick for you. Probably kind of distracting to try and work both that and shooting from the normal angles. How do you manage that? Or is it simply knowing which parts of the ceremony are better captured from the alternate camera and using it then?

I tried turning the the auto power off off...camera did as it was supposed to, it stayed on, but the connection still timed out, and you need access to the camera to reestablish connection.   I only had the 6d for a few days so my tests were less than scientific...lol.

As to " Probably kind of distracting to try and work both that and shooting from the normal angles. How do you manage that?"  Specifically I was thinking about Catholic weddings, where the ceremonies are long and the B&G are up by the altar kneeling for a half an hour, I can only take so many shots of their backs!  So my idea was with the 6d, get there early, talk to the priest and ask him if setting up the remote camera was allowed...on that kind of wedding there are plenty of moments where you just have to chill out and wait because again, how many shots do the B&G really want of their backs?  The remote came would be able to get their faces.  So I don't think it would be too distracting for me, at least on those kid of weddings.

Ah, I see. That makes total sense. I've never been to one of those big, formal, drawn out weddings before. Good idea though!

627
EOS Bodies / Re: 5D Mark III & RAW Video, A Case Study
« on: May 31, 2013, 06:22:37 PM »
I have the the 5d mark III with good results...is the 5d mark II getting better or less results??

I think right now they're concentrating on the 5d3, getting that stable and refined, then looking at it on other cameras such as the 5D2 & 50D, and maybe the 6D.

628
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Refurbished Body
« on: May 31, 2013, 04:44:08 PM »
Not that I've heard. Only thing I can think of is contacting Canon with the serial number and asking if it has been refurbished or not. I think the more important questions are A) Is it in good condition, B) How many shutter actuations does it have, and are you willing to live with the shutter life that is left, C) Does it have any warranty left on it.

629
I rented a 6d and am 90% sure I will have one of my own in the next week or 2 to be a backup body for my 5d3.    the one thing that kind of disappointed me with the wifi, and kind of potentially ruins one of my plans with it is --  for weddings I had had the idea to set it up in an area I can only access before the ceremony (like behind the altar).  The problem is after like 5-10 minutes of not being in use the camera and phone lose connection and there is no way to reestablish the connection without direct access to the camera.  It can still be done, set up, then just make sure to snap a shot every minute to keep the connection active.

Another valid point.  Have you tried changing the Auto Power Off setting?  You have a lot choices there, including never shutting off.  I haven't tried that, but I suspect it should keep the camera live and thus the connection on during that time. 

BTW, that is a very clever idea and use for the Wi-Fi connection, particularly considering you can you change DOF and lighting on the fly.

I forget the name of the device, but there's a thing floating around that connects via USB and supports a variety of remote control functions. Sounds pretty analogous to the 6D + WiFi + Canon Remote app for anyone who doesn't have a 6D or can't use their phone (non-Android, non-iPhone user here).

I think turning off the auto-power off might do the trick for you. Probably kind of distracting to try and work both that and shooting from the normal angles. How do you manage that? Or is it simply knowing which parts of the ceremony are better captured from the alternate camera and using it then?

630
I'm surprised you didn't use the Tamron 24-70 :P

Kidding aside, definitely a good use of the feature, although for me I'm not sure its something that would be useful for me. Glad it was so useful for you! And I very much agree with the mosquito swarms. Yuck!

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