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Messages - Drizzt321

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676
Lenses / Re: Lens Flare
« on: May 06, 2013, 06:27:45 PM »
Using a hood designed for the 50 f/1.8 you should be fine, however if the light source is within the field of view, then a lens hood probably won't help because it's going to project light into the lens anyway. You can always use your hand or piece of cardboard/posterboard or something and hold it just out of the frame while still blocking the light from the source. Personally I'm not sure I would spend the money given the lens is so cheap. I'd put the money towards saving up for a better lens, which probably will also control lens flare better.

677
Animal Kingdom / Re: Honey Bees
« on: May 06, 2013, 05:24:38 PM »
where's my industrial sized can of raid when you need it lol

For shame! Honey bees are your friend. It's wasps and hornets that you pull out the big guns and go in with overwhelming force.

Mt Spokane, I don't suppose you could have a bee keeper open one up and get some macro shots of them working inside on the honeycomb? Or do some of them climbing in and out or something. That could be some neat shots :)

678
Lenses / Re: Poll: Most Wanted New Lenses of 2013.
« on: May 06, 2013, 05:21:44 PM »
You left off the 24-105 f/2.8L IS USM with near Macro (0.7x or better) capabilities that's nearly as sharp as the new 24-70 v2.

Joking aside, for me it's the 135L (1.8 or 2, either one, but with IS and even better optics) or the 14-24 2.8 that has little distortion and is very sharp.

679
Lenses / Re: Any one ever seen a zoom extender
« on: May 06, 2013, 05:17:58 PM »
Years ago, I had a Vivitar extender that was coupled with a variable extension tube - it was quite useful for macro. I suppose you could say it allowed independent control of magnification.

That's different than what OP was referring to. An extension tube is, as you say, is good for macro photography. Not so good for increasing the focal length which is what OP was talking about. A variable extension tube is pretty simple, since extension tubes are basically just empty space (such as bellows), whereas tele-converters usually contain 1 or more lens elements to re-focus the image to get it to hit the focal plane correctly.

680
Reviews / Re: Review - Canon EF 24-70 f/4L IS
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:49:00 PM »
This lens has one significant issue: Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC which is around 30% cheaper in my country. Professionals will probably take the absolute best = Canon 24-70 f/2.8 Mk. II and hobbyists will either take the absolute best (if they can afford it) or the best in cost/performance ratio = Tamron. IMO the main market for this lens will be using it as a new kit lens for FF bodies.

Personally I'm with you on the Tamron 24-70, however it's quite a heavy lens. Trust me, it's heavy. When I buy it I probably will get the Canon 5d3 grip at the same time to try and balance it out some.

Otherwise, I'm split on my opinion. In some ways, I'm with Neuro in that it's a solution in search of the right problem. On the other, the idea of a light travel lens with near macro capabilities is nice. Although I think I'd prefer a somewhat longer focal length in a standard travel zoom since versatility can be more important sometimes.

681
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Samyang 24mm f/3.5 ED Tilt-Shift in Stock
« on: May 06, 2013, 01:41:36 PM »
This lens definitely has interested me. Glad to see it's at least fairly decent, resolution-wise, to the Canon 24 T-S. I'd hoped it would be a bit closer, especially at the larger apertures. If the other reviews on the Tilt and Shift functionality are positive, I think I'll be looking to add this to my lens collection at some point in time, maybe after it's been in the wild long enough that the price might come down a bit.

682
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Interesting contest from Tamron
« on: May 03, 2013, 02:14:13 PM »
If I photograph a group of friends smiling and holding up their index and middle fingers, while sitting behind the cracked windshield of a blue, 1950's T-Bird that they've just washed, does that count for 9 or 10 of the photographs?!?   ::)
I'll give you 9.  I don't think it would count for the cooking utinsel.

the hood could be open with someone cooking an egg on the engine

Actually, I was thinking the T-Bird would pass for "An interesting structure."  If not, then I'll just shoot it front of Stonehenge!  Oh, and I have to make sure the chrome bumper is polished.  Then, I'll throw a potted plant next to the car, while one guy holds a spatula and another brushes his teeth, and I think I've got it all covered!   ;D

Wish that'd work, it's pretty creative, but according to the rules:

Quote
...and must contain 14 images as they relate to all 14 clues (images may be ordered in any way).

683
Canon General / Re: Just Why
« on: May 01, 2013, 04:22:15 PM »
??

No lens (at least today) comes with a UV filter, you need to buy them yourselves. As for the super telephoto lenses, they do, it's just a filter that's dropped in close to the lens mount rather than all the way on the front of the lens like smaller lenses. I shudder to think of the cost for a filter that size.

684
Technical Support / Re: T4i HDMI output shut down
« on: May 01, 2013, 11:58:15 AM »
Is the camera going to sleep? Check your settings, I'd bet that you have the auto-off or auto-lcd off set to just a minute or two.

685
Lighting / Re: Speedlite Remote Trigger Question
« on: April 25, 2013, 07:05:14 PM »
Using the YN-622's you don't have any of the speedlites being 'master', that's what the Yongnuo triggers are for. You stick the transmitter on your hotshoe, and the receiver on the bottom of the speedlite and you have you're wireless RF TTL.

In order to get TTL you'd need a possibly very long cable, if it'd even work due to there likely being a max length for ETTL cable. Using PC-Sync triggering you have a very, very long max length, but you lose any TTL/remote setting and you need to make all the changes on the speedlite itself.

Hopefully all of that made sense. So short answer is, you don't need to worry about master/slave with that kind of wireless TTL system, however there are certain limitations. However they're a great deal, and I've heard nothing but good things, and if you eventually hit their limitations you'll work around them or there will be a new version that's fixed it or you'll just have to fork over for pocket wizards.

686
Portrait / Re: Need advice, what can I do to improve?
« on: April 25, 2013, 07:00:53 PM »
Was the off camera flash below the model? I think since these seem to be going for a natural look you need to balance the ambient light with the off camera flash and the reflector better- Ie: A lot of the shadows on her face (especially shadows cast by nose) are going UP! This just looks odd and isn't flattering on an otherwise beautiful face.

I'd suggest raising the light source higher so the shadows fall more naturally.

OP was using a reflector, not a flash. Although you're point about being careful about the shadows on the face is a good one, and just as relevant with any lighting setup.

687
Portrait / Re: Need advice, what can I do to improve?
« on: April 25, 2013, 04:33:52 PM »
I'll put in another looks pretty good. I'd say you used your reflector(s) well, although I think the other 2 posters have some good comments. While the model is pretty, there's just something in the composition, or the way she's holding herself, or something so that the images generally aren't grabbing me, even though they otherwise are reasonably good. Sorry I can't zero in on it a bit more for you.

688
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Zeiss 135mm f2 Apo Sonnar Preview
« on: April 22, 2013, 07:54:22 PM »
Looks to be a great lens, but it still has no AF, weighs a lot (2.02 lb), and costs double the current 135L price  :'(

So it'll cost as much as the next Canon 135L then? Joking, I kid. I kid. No really.

Joking aside, I'd love to get some Zeiss glass, but just too expensive for me and for what I normally do. So, perhaps some day...

689
Canon cameras contain information about all the EF lenses and the commands to send to them.  Third party lenses tell the camera that they are a Canon lens and then translate the command they receive to their lens.  This can cause even another step that adds to inaccuracy, but it can be adjusted by AFMA as well.
 
Its a lot more complex that a person might think.

Again, all of that would be solved by closing the loop. Then all you'd need is a correction for sensor/vs AF array, which would be body specific and programmed by Canon at the factory.

It is sounding like the whole phase detect AF system is fully open loop, which really surprised me. Is Nikon like this too? Do they also have an AFMA type feature on their bodies?

Wish there were a Canon engineer I could speak to this about, would be a fascinating discussion!

Even with a closed loop, you may not be able to guarantee that it will always be correct since there's long term wear and tear, if the body is sent back to be cleaned and things shift slightly...plus it'll be different if you're using it in cold weather vs hot weather since parts expand/contract and at different amounts.

690
If it was closed loop, with a second look, we would be only a few steps away from a self-learning AFMA built in into the camera. Now that would be nice, wouldn't it.
More than nice ... it'd be AWESOME!

The problem is you can't really, unless you also look at the actual image projected onto the sensor. AFMA fixes the situation where the AF detects "in focus", while due to small differences between lens + body combinations, the image projected onto the sensor is not quite in focus. So if the lens mount on the body is every so slightly thicker than the specs but still within tolerances, and the sensor is positioned ever so slightly closer to the back, then while the AF might be in focus, what is projected onto the sensor is just slightly off leading to images that might be a bit software than the might otherwise be. This is most obvious when you have a very shallow DoF, because the plane of focus is very thin where being slightly off from the focus is noticeable.

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