Messages

676

Technical Support / Re: 5D Mark III Automatic Sensor Cleaning question

« on: July 30, 2012, 12:54:56 PM »

It shouldn't be doing it when the camera is powering up, although normally when it's powered off (by the switch, not always when it does it automatic timeout shutdown) it should perform the self-cleaning.

677

Technical Support / Re: Canon 5D Mark II error 20 Need Help!!

« on: July 30, 2012, 12:53:25 PM »

Holy crap that's some sticker shock! Awesome to hear that you somehow got it fixed under warranty

I recently dropped my CPS on it's upper right shoulder, the LCD was fine, but case was cracked. Still worked fine it seemed, but sent it in. I had the estimate in just a couple hours after they received it which was the day after I shipped it since I'm in SoCal. Paid by CC without waiting for my insurance check (got the money, just a few days later), and had it back to me in 2-3 days including return shipping. Love the CPS membership, I don't think I'll ever go back.

Plus, I have the TS-E 24mm and 100mm Macro coming to me in a week for test/evaluation =D   Another great feature of membership, you can try out some lenses for just return shipping without worrying about rental fees.

678

Technical Support / Re: 5D MARK III - does not read CF card

« on: July 30, 2012, 12:46:59 PM »

That doesn't sound good. Especially with a brand new card. Give Canon warranty services a call.

679

Lenses / Re: Rokinon 35 f1.4 for video

« on: July 28, 2012, 10:42:59 PM »

Well, which body are you going for? On an APS-C sensor like the T2/3/4i or 60D or 7D it'll be about 56mm field of view (compared to a full 35mm frame sensor). That's probably a good normal length lens, while a 50mm will be ~80mm on crop. If you are jumping right up to the 5d2/5d3/1DX then 35mm would be a nice wide.

I think a lot of it depends on just what most of your shots will be. If you are going for a crop, the 17-40mm might actually be a good choice, that'll get you wide to normal (~27-64mm) and on a crop you'll avoid most/all of the corner softness.

If you to stick with the ~$400-600 range, the Samyang 35mm, Canon 50mm f/1.4 (or if you can stand the tiny focus ring 50mm f/1.8 for $100), 85mm f/1.8, 40mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2.0, 24mm f/2.8 would all be good lenses. They are also all EF mounts, so they'll work on a FF if you want to move up to that from a crop sensor later on.

680

Lens Gallery / Re: Voigtlander 20mm f3.5 color-skopar SLII

« on: July 28, 2012, 09:47:47 PM »

Looks like a really nice lens, what I'm reading says it's pretty great optically, with great build quality. Wish it was a bit cheaper, but I might just put this on the list of "I'll get it eventually". Probably ahead of the 200L f/2, I'm gonna have the win the lotto or save up for years for that one.

681

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D MkIII w/BG-E11 Date Time issue

« on: July 28, 2012, 09:06:21 PM »

Yea, it's likely those settings are stored in a non-volatile memory space. The clock actually needs power to run to accurately keep time.

682

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D MkIII w/BG-E11 Date Time issue

« on: July 28, 2012, 07:16:32 PM »

Thanks everyone. It just seem to start when I started using the grip. Something weird happen once attaching the grip where the camera didn't start back up. Maybe the clock battery got fried.

Well since it is a cheap fix I'll start there.

If it started just when you started using the grip, that's suspicious. It's Canon's grip? Not a 3rd party?

I wouldn't have expected any grip to cause problems with the clock battery, draining/frying it or otherwise.

683

Lighting / Re: Beginer.. Need Speedlite help

« on: July 28, 2012, 07:00:37 PM »

The Yongnuo YN-565 EX seems like a pretty decent speedlite. Gives you ETTL, as well as apparently supporting the being a remote slave (non-RF) from something like a 580 EX II if you want to go that route in the future. I'd invest in a couple sets of Eneloop batteries, as that will help the recycle time by a lot.

http://speedlights.net/2011/08/28/yongnuo-yn-565-ex-flash-review/

684

Lenses / Re: My 17-55 2.8 for his 28-70 2.8 trade?

« on: July 28, 2012, 06:44:38 PM »

Thank you for the replies! When they guy first contacted me I thought it was a 24-70 and that might have made it easier for me to want to trade but Im not so sure about a 28-70. So how does a lens wear out? Does it lose IQ and sharpness over time?

Not really, although there could be other problems like fungus growth, or scratches, or other damage that might have occurred. In this case, it's more likely that the 28-70 is not that great of a lens to begin with for IQ, vignetting, color fringing, etc. I haven't researched it at all, but based off of neuroanatomist and Random Orbits replies, I'd guess that's more the case.

685

Lenses / Re: About to jump into the canon boat!

« on: July 28, 2012, 06:41:49 PM »

Everyone has their own style, but I find 17mm too wide on full frame, although I used to use the 17-40 all the time on crop for landscapes. Also, filter use will start to be an issue, even at 24mm, if you use a second adaptor to allow combined use of CPL and ND grads, then a 100mm filter set will be visible in frame. I would therefore lean towards the 24-105 instead of the 17-40.

For events the 50 1.4 will likely be good, but won't let you get too wide. With the 17-40 you give up a lot of aperture (f/4), and for events I wouldn't recommend going wider than 24, with 35-40 being more the usual otherwise you'll get some 'interesting' perspective distortion on some people. Not that it's bad if you're going for that, but you need to be careful with ultra-wide on a FF.

The other challenge for events with the 5d2 is it's AF system. The center point is fairly good, but can still be pretty challenged by low lights without the AF assist beam the 480/580 EX speedlites have. You can always use those, but disable flash firing (use them just for the AF assist beam).

Otherwise, the 85 f/1.8 would be a nice filler in that gap for video. It'd be a medium to wide closeup for you, while the 135 will be a good closeup/extreme closeup and the 50 might be a nice normal with the 17-40 filling in the wider angles.

686

EOS Bodies / Re: 5dIII hot pixel question

« on: July 28, 2012, 06:01:42 PM »

Hmm...makes me want to do the same thing to double check for hot pixels. *whoosh* Off to test!

687

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D MkIII w/BG-E11 Date Time issue

« on: July 28, 2012, 06:01:02 PM »

Yeah sounds like what kbmelb said. Same thing happens with computers and the battery on the motherboards. Iv bought brand new ones that we dead on arrival. 2-3 dollar fix. If not, exchange it if you have a return policy.

If you bought it from a local camera shop, you can take it to them to change the battery (if you don't want to), but no need to ship it off anywhere. Dead clock backup batteries happen, not often, but they do.

688

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: 1DX vs 5D3

« on: July 28, 2012, 06:00:02 PM »

You can buy a single-use camera for underwater use for 10 bucks, please don't tell me the best reason we can come up with to get a DOUBLE priced 1d X over a 5d3 is the damn weathersealing???

Please compare that underwater camera to what the 1DX can do. No real comparison.

Leaving that aside, 2 different target groups. The single-use underwater cameras are only good down to a few meters, no interchangeable lens system, no super advanced controls, no real viewfinder. Oh, and probably use ISO 400-800 film, which they develop and give you a CD.

And no, the price difference is not purely weathersealing. Some of the cost, yes, but much of the rest is different sensors, more electronics/processors, additional AF & metering, built-in dual battery grip, etc, etc. Oh, and the shutter can handle more actuations and double(!) the frames per second. And take more frames until the buffer is full. There's a ton of small and large things between the 1DX and the 5d3.

689

Portrait / Need some Photoshop/Editing help

« on: July 28, 2012, 05:55:43 PM »

So, I'm having some trouble, specifically getting rid of the stray hairs around this guys neck and ears. So first photo is original, 2nd is after I fixed the bags under his eyes (I think it's decent, not gonna win awards, but decent), but the big issue is trying to get the 3rd one correct. Any tips, tricks, help, or is it just not possible without doing a crap done of pixel by pixel editing and actually really knowing what I'm doing?

690

EOS Bodies / Re: 5D MkIII w/BG-E11 Date Time issue

« on: July 28, 2012, 04:41:17 PM »

Hmm...the clock button battery could be dead, but on a new camera that's extremely unlikely. Check the manual for how to go about replacing the clock button battery and try it. If it works, it's only a couple of bucks for the battery and probably not worth the hassle of a warranty claim. If it doesn't work, time to call up Canon.