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Messages - Drizzt321

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751
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: Canon 5D Mark 2 or 5D Mark 3??
« on: March 10, 2013, 01:58:16 AM »
I'd vote 5d3 as well, if you're making money off of it and people are paying. As others have pointed out, online (even Amazon) you can get a 5d3 body for less than most/all local brick & mortar stores.

1) Reduced rolling shutter. It's not gone, but it's better.
2) Significantly reduce moire.
3) 720p50/60 modes, although 1080p is still only 24/30.
4) You can crank the ISO up 1-2 stops above the 5d2 if you have to.

I have both, and while MagicLantern is currently only alpha/beta on the 5d3, last I heard it was coming along well towards full support, although it's not there yet. I do have ML on my 5d2, and for video it can add quite a few good things, such as zebra striping, focus peaking, 10x zoom for live focusing (no auto-focusing).

If you really aren't sure, and you're in LA, I'd be willing to meet you somewhere for a couple of hours and let you play around with the video on my 5d2 & 5d3, just PM me.

752
Lenses / Re: Photo jargon question: f/stops
« on: March 09, 2013, 01:15:18 AM »
So that we know the most important feature of the lens - how much light it lets in. No point in knowing how it performs stopped down, most lenses are sharp stopped down. That is useless info. Its like saying hey this sports car can also cruise at 60mph. Who cares about that? We wanna know the max speed! Same with a lens the max "speed" relative to aperture size. So we know a f/1.4 will allow for some fast shutter speeds compared with narrower apertures at the same light level. Also we can tell by the wide aperture that it is possible to achieve a shallow depth of field and hopefully some pleasing out of focus areas. All important considerations when buying a lens.

Also the sweet spot for any model of lens may vary copy to copy. That info could be misleading.

Actually, it's not useless. Some lenses might perform better at f/5.6 than f/8, although some of that depends on the recording medium (different sensors/film). However, often a faster lens (wider aperture) will let you stop down a bit (say, f/1.4 -> f/2.8) while still being fast, and improving quality. Also faster glass tends to be of higher quality, and better designs all of which contribute positively to the image quality at any aperture.

753
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: CF Cards - Where do you buy yours?
« on: March 08, 2013, 12:42:35 PM »
i can't believe people use Lexar....

I've had 3 fail...and any other pro's i talk to have had same experience and lost stuff..

everyone (in ireland) using sandisk for a while now...

Not a 'pro' shooter, but I've shot some 10K or more spread across 4 Lexar 32GB 400x cards, and they've been perfectly good for me. Sandisk is of course great as well.

For me, generally B&H here in the US.

754
Light table and loupe are indispensable. However before you dive into home scanners you may want to consider setting up account at a lab which has a drum scanner. It might not be too expensive. I know having an account at my local lab with a photography biz license the cost of drum scanning is well worth it and outweighs purchasing a soso scanner for home. get a small table and a loupe to start as you mentioned. have you looked at Nikon film scanners? They blow away the flatbeds.

Can those scanners also scan in the Fuji instant film that I also will be using?

Good idea about calling around for a local lab. There's got to be at least one here in LA that does drum scanning, as long as it's not too crazy expensive.

For a loupe, to cover 6x7 it looks like ~$120 and up, and a smaller lightbox is $40-50. That's going off B&H pricing as of now. That's still pretty much the cost (new) of the V600, and for 120 film it'll about pay for itself within 25 (full) rolls scanned.

Decisions, decisions...

755
I cant comment on the V600 but I have the V700 and it is very nice. I have scanned 8x10 negs, 4x5 negs, and 35mm slides all with good results.
Even with the scanner the lightbox and loupe come in handy. especially with 35mm slides.

I have the feeling I'll get a loupe & lightbox eventually, but seeing the price of the V600 makes me really consider it. I'd like to get what I'm shooting (including the Fuji instant develop photos) up online for some friends to see, and maybe do some home prints. High quality and/or large prints, which likely would only be for a few, select frames, I'd send off to a great drum scanning place.

756
So, as I begin my journey into film, I'm realizing instead of paying to scan or print every roll (120 film mostly, 6x7), that being able to view the negative/slides either at pick (and then give them to scan), or at home and then bring back to get scanned is probably the more cost effective way. That and I'm considering getting a scanner, but that probably won't happen as I expect I'll be paying $250+ on a quality home scanner. I've been eyeing the V600 which has some good reviews, and that's about $190 at B&H.

However, just looking around on B&H, I'm seeing that a lightbox & loupe will probably cost around $200 or more. So, what would ya'll recommend? Just go ahead and wait until I get paid this month and then go buy a quality scanner like the V600? Should I save for a couple of months and jump to the V700? I'm sure I'm serious about film, however the quantities I'll be doing will be varying.

As a side note, I would like to take it back home to scan some family negatives/photos. Not likely all of them, but at least some. If it (and the software included or other recommended software) can help with that, bonus awesomeness.

EDITS: Fixed V600 price

757
Canon General / Re: Nepal Expedition
« on: March 07, 2013, 06:16:58 PM »
I'd also look into travelers insurance, either way, and make sure it includes a rider for your photo equipment. You might also be able to get it insured through your home/renters insurance, although usually it's an additional rider. Just make sure the latter will also cover international travel.

758
Software & Accessories / Re: Which wireless radio control for the 5D3?
« on: March 07, 2013, 03:52:22 PM »
If all you need is to trip the shutter, the Phottix Strato II includes the necessary cables to remotely trigger the shutter release, and also can function as remote strobe/speedlite trigger.

759
Green is essential for the auto exposure system.  If its missing, you will need to use manual exposure.  The camera is trying to expose to get the correct amount of brightness and it uses the green channel to do this.
Try manual exposure using the histogram of the red channel.  It won't be wonderful, but can be much better.


It uses the green channel to do AE? Interesting, never heard of that.

 
A camera may use all the colors for exposure, but the luminance channel is almost always the same as the green channel.  Get rid of green, and you fool the exposure system.  Yellow has a lot of green in it, so it works fine.
 
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms2.htm


Ah, very interesting, thank you. So modern AE systems use luminance for determining exposure, ok. How does that compare to a CdS light meter? Light meter reads based off of intensity, right? How would this correspond to luminance? Or is it not exact because a light meter doesn't read any type of color, merely how much light reflects off (or is incident on) a surface?

760
Lenses / Re: Duplicate APS-C and 17-55 2.8 IS in Full Frame?
« on: March 06, 2013, 09:46:32 PM »
That said, using a flash I'd say you hardly need any kind of IS unless you're dragging your shutter way slow (which it looks like you're doing), but the subjects you are hitting with the flash will still be in pretty good exposure due to having a relative ton of light being reflected back to the sensor compared to the surroundings.

So if you're really concerned, go for the Canon 24-70 v2, otherwise I'd rent the Tamron and try it out. You'll find it's quite heavy actually, although I believe the 24-70 v2 is pretty heavy as well.

Yes.  Dragging the shutter and shooting rear curtain at Events.  Using more light is not the answer.  I want the ambient to expose and not be affected much by flash and all but very near the lens to stay in motion and be blurry.

Well, as I said, IS doesn't seem as important for this situation. You're moving the lens anyway, so with IS on it'll attempt to compensate for that.

Trust me.  It's important.  The difference is quite remarkable. :)

Really? That's interesting. Do you have any comparison shots where you have IS on, and then IS off with similar subjects/exposure/etc? I'd be very interested to see the difference.

761
Green is essential for the auto exposure system.  If its missing, you will need to use manual exposure.  The camera is trying to expose to get the correct amount of brightness and it uses the green channel to do this.
Try manual exposure using the histogram of the red channel.  It won't be wonderful, but can be much better.

It uses the green channel to do AE? Interesting, never heard of that.

762
Lenses / Re: Duplicate APS-C and 17-55 2.8 IS in Full Frame?
« on: March 06, 2013, 09:23:24 PM »
That said, using a flash I'd say you hardly need any kind of IS unless you're dragging your shutter way slow (which it looks like you're doing), but the subjects you are hitting with the flash will still be in pretty good exposure due to having a relative ton of light being reflected back to the sensor compared to the surroundings.

So if you're really concerned, go for the Canon 24-70 v2, otherwise I'd rent the Tamron and try it out. You'll find it's quite heavy actually, although I believe the 24-70 v2 is pretty heavy as well.

Yes.  Dragging the shutter and shooting rear curtain at Events.  Using more light is not the answer.  I want the ambient to expose and not be affected much by flash and all but very near the lens to stay in motion and be blurry.

Well, as I said, IS doesn't seem as important for this situation. You're moving the lens anyway, so with IS on it'll attempt to compensate for that.

763
Lenses / Re: Duplicate APS-C and 17-55 2.8 IS in Full Frame?
« on: March 06, 2013, 08:36:41 PM »
Going up to f4 made a huge difference and was not really an option.  DOF is not a concern for this type of shooting, especially since flash will punch out the DOF anyway.  My concern with the Tamron is well...it's a Tamron,
Ummmm I dont quite think you understand the concept of DOF here flash and DOF are two completely mutually exclussive aspects. ie flash has precisely zero effect on DOF. DOF is a function of the lens and sensor the flash simply provide light for the exposure

the tamron fear is totally understandable however.

the f4 on full frame is essentially going to give you the equivalent as the 2.8 on your crop
on the 5Dmk3 at events even shooting iso 16,000 is fine where as with crop its 1600 maybe 3200 at a push
iso 16000 on the 5dmk3 takes about the same NR and processing as 1600 does on crop IMO

The Tamron uncertainty is understandable, but I have used the lens, and it's quite a nice lens, especially when you throw in the price. AF on it moves a small bit slower than many of the rest of the L lenses, but build, optically, IQ, and VC (Tamron's name for IS) are all very good, on part with the vast majority of L lenses.

That said, using a flash I'd say you hardly need any kind of IS unless you're dragging your shutter way slow (which it looks like you're doing), but the subjects you are hitting with the flash will still be in pretty good exposure due to having a relative ton of light being reflected back to the sensor compared to the surroundings.

So if you're really concerned, go for the Canon 24-70 v2, otherwise I'd rent the Tamron and try it out. You'll find it's quite heavy actually, although I believe the 24-70 v2 is pretty heavy as well.

764
Landscape / Re: Post Your Comet Pictures
« on: March 06, 2013, 07:07:35 PM »
Wow...nice. I might have to find some time at night 10, 11 or 12 to take a trip up the beach to Malibu, and hope there isn't too much light pollution coming from the rest of LA.

765
Landscape / Re: Printing services... Where do I go?
« on: March 06, 2013, 07:06:09 PM »
If you want to get a quick idea of what the final print might look like, get a decent photo printer. I have the Pixma Pro 9000 II that I got for a deal from B&W when I got my 5d3. Works great, can even pretty some moderately large prints, and ink lasts a good bit and isn't quite an arm and a leg. Then send off the images you want to someplace like Bay Photo. Or if you're in a major metro area like LA or NY, there's a couple of good places still around (speaking for LA here), although I haven't tried them yet. I really should.

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