« on: January 14, 2013, 08:38:18 PM »
Oh. I dunno, I was being facetious. I didn't know it was actually covered orange, since I don't own one.
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Lost a couple of these recently, and can't seem to find them anywhere on Amazon or BandH. Anyone have any clue where to find some online?
What would be awesome would be to have service centers at each of these stores.
Packt Like Sardines by Strykapose, on Flickr
5D3, TS-E24mm f/3.5L II, 6 sec f/4.5 ISO 100
my guess is he does research. when I was doing lab work there was an insane amount of waiting-for-tests-to-finish-running time that we spent on the computer, setting up strange ways to destroy expensive magnets, or meaningless arguments
Are you saying that the Canon DIGISUPER 75 isn't a camera?
Yes, I'm saying it's a lens, not a camera. Are you saying it is a camera?
Now understand that the camera is sitting on top of at least three and a half to four feet of Aluminium (or Carbon fiber - which I believe would be more flexible so even worse...). So as the first slap of the mirror pushes vibrations down the tripod, there is movement and that would cause shake...
FWIW, one advantage of carbon fiber is that it actually damps vibrations better than aluminum. Wood is even better than CF, but no one wants to lug around a set of heavy wooden legs...
It's indicative of brightness, lenses are usually at their best stopped down a bit, so max aperture lets you know the starting point, also in most modern af systems the faster the max aperture the better the af performance, regardless of shooting aperture.
Minimum aperture can cause it's own problems, particularly when considering that dslrs of different sensor sizes and generations have different pixel pitch, the effects of aperture limited diffraction mean that the desirable minimum aperture can vary vastly between say a 1100d and a 7d or even between a 5d and a 5d3.
If you do video you won't need AF.
Obviously you may prefer it for stills, perhaps fit a split prism focus screen to assist MF in stills mode?
Declicked aperture or electronic dial?
If video is going to form a big part of your work then a manual iris is great, and declicked even better. For video you get a live view of how things will look, you'll need to switch off exp comp in live view to get a true view for stills.
Obviously as you stop down the viewfinder / image darkens, you may prefer to compose and focus wide open and stop down before shooting - easy for video, pain in the a for stills, a bit 1960's.
But these are the compromises for a well sorted bright inexpensive prime.
Only bother with the cine version if you are absolutely going to use follow focus gearing and a rig. The photo version is cheaper and easier to live with for mixed use. And you can get a declicked non-cine version.
Hey guys quick question.
"Does anybody know why the name of the lens includes the widest aperature (f/...)?"
Why not the smallest, or the sharpest?