Well, on a fisheye (well, most UWA lenses) unless you have a stuff very close to the lens as well as far away, or vice versa, you get close to or hit the hyperfocal distance, so having manual focus might not be difficult as you think.
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I am going to a wedding where all my family will be in. I am not the pro here but my family expects me to get decent shots. I am bringing my 5d3 with 24-105 to travel light with the 600ex. I was thinking using AV starting with f4 and auto iso up to 3200. Any other suggestions?
Just a question... I have a 5D3 and two 1DX's... I back button focus (which really makes no difference other than I'm VERY conscious of focus...)I would not call baseball stadiums and football stadiums as being horribly lit. They have reasonable lighting, unless the teams are playing in the dark.
I've "roughly" followed this "problem" (I had two 7D's prior which had the same set up... so I really don't understand...) and I can kinda see people's concern... I am normally shooting at night, under horrible lighting at baseball and football stadiums (thus why the 1DX's...)... is there a focusing problem that you're experiencing because the focus points are dark or is there something else that I'm missing?
The issue comes when literally using the camera in the dark with only extremely dim lights.
The fact that the AF points are black is only a part of the problem. The other part is that they are tiny with a thin line around them. I've no issue with the 7D because the large points are easy to see.
I am fine with anything that is lighted.
In your situation with dim lights, is the camera grabbing focus?
My worst situation is stadium lighting that is at best 12800 iso with white jerseys then throw in the home team wearing black helmet, black jerseys and black pants against the black sky of the night... But again, I'm not doing any "creative" framing at that point...
The reason I'm asking is because I have yet to take the focus points off cross type points and a lot of time am using the five multi-cross points up the middle with the camera in landscape... With 22k+ exposures on the 5d3 and 15k combined on the 1DX I've been pleased and haven't been comfortable venturing out to "test" my luck, ain't broken, nothing to "fix" mentality!
Thanks for the feedback!
IMHO this is like leasing vs buying a car. Creative Cloud is Adobe leasing you software - you never own the software - but you always have the latest versions. You pay forever until you're willing or able to buy. Car leasing vs buying is the same way. Leasing only makes sense (to me) if you can deduct some of the cost as a business expense - and you always NEED the latest version.
Just a question... I have a 5D3 and two 1DX's... I back button focus (which really makes no difference other than I'm VERY conscious of focus...)
I've "roughly" followed this "problem" (I had two 7D's prior which had the same set up... so I really don't understand...) and I can kinda see people's concern... I am normally shooting at night, under horrible lighting at baseball and football stadiums (thus why the 1DX's...)... is there a focusing problem that you're experiencing because the focus points are dark or is there something else that I'm missing? I routinely shoot a school who's colors are black and orange... I use a single focus point that changes if I'm landscape vs. portrait... I know where the spot is, I know I have to get it on the player... I know the spot will grab focus where I need when I have the subject framed how I want... if there's nothing there for the camera to focus on it won't matter if the point is neon pink the camera won't grab focus... if there IS something, my three bodies are grabbing focus (albeit the 1DX's grab it far quicker than the 5D3...)....
Am I missing something? Are you moving the focus point around that much under that poor of lighting conditions that you can't find the point? If the lighting is that poor, are you getting it to focus? Or are you concerned if it's focusing? I'm just not getting it... I've been with the black focus points for two weeks shy of three years... I'm really not quite understanding the problem. Help?
I agree, I have been using the mkiii for around 5 months and to be honest i have got used to it now and don't find it a problem
Bad genie, that's a bad g'damn genie!! First, you have to assess the
victim'slamp polisher's needs. He may want the Ferrari, but if he has to haul his boat (that was going to be the second wish) over the dirt road to the lake, he needs the Land Rover.
The 70-200 II is a great general purpose zoom, excellent for portraits, sports, etc. Perhaps less good as a travel lens. Also consider...do you need the extra 100mm?
What body? Personally, I found the 70-200 II to be an awkward focal length on APS-C - too long indoors, often not long enough outside. On APS-C, the 70-300 L may be better for the reach. On FF, 70-200 is a great range.
One mor thing...if the genie can deliver the 70-200 II, he could also deliver the 70-300 L and $750 for something else...17-40L, 50/1.4 + 85/1.8, 600EX-RT, etc.
70-200. Fast, accurate, razor sharp and enables the super sensitive 2.8 dual cross types to be used on any high end body. Also, lovely bokeh
Anyone been over at nikonrumors and hear what they complain over? It seems that the guys here love nikon more than they do...
no wonder .. both companys have switched their school of thought drastically.
we user need some time to adapt. no matter if nikon or canon user.
the poor nikon guys sitting there with a D800 on their knees and don´t know what to do with all the megapixels. it´s a heavy jump from 12 to 36 MP.
while we canon guys suddenly see that sony, out of nowhere, produces the best sensors.
and we wonder why our sensors have only 22 and no better DR then a tiny, dwarf-size-photosite equipped D800 sensor.
I may be wrong, but with High Speed Sync on a flash, max sync shutter speed becomes less relevant.Yes but with a penalty in maximum flash power, and you must buy an expensive flash capable of HSS
Thanks everyone for the great input. I love the 1/250th flas sync on my 60D and was shocked that the 5d mark ii and iii only have 1/200th despite the 5d mark iii being 2.5-3x the price. And the D700 and D800 both have 1/250th. I do notice a difference with max flash sync between 1/250th and say 1/180th - namely w/blurred waving hands. my 60d + the pop up flash is always on 1/250th for indoor candids of my toddler. One of the features I like the most on the 60d is the wireless trigger to the 430 ex ii....here's to hoping cano's future ff are 1/250th flasj sync or faster
This sounds like great news to me.
Canon - pay attention.
7DII - 5DIII/1DX based AF system, WITH f/8 AF sensors at the center.
Flexible video crop (full-frame to 1:1 crop in all modes) for all these cameras.
5DIII firmware update to include flexible video cropping.
Give me that (and good sensor performance, obviously), and I might be in for BOTH a 7DII and a 5DIII.
Big time bonus - native DNG format, including the option to use the new lossy DNG raw format (huge, huge advantage over MRAW/SRAW). Include this in the above-mentioned 5DIII firmware update.
Yeah...I'd definitely crack open the checkbook for that.