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I've heard the 60d is much better.My 50mm f/1.4 focusing on the 60D is usually spot on. I generally use center point focusing. I always aim for the eyes. If I compose a shot where the eyes are off-center, I auto-focus on the eyes, turn off the AF on the lens, then frame the composition.
A friend with the Series 1 300mm and 400mm that are less than a year old wants to trade them both up form my 400mm.This pretty much sums it up, I suppose. I am looking forward to trying the new 400mm out. Thanks for the info.
Truth is: 5D III is definitely not worth more than Nikon D800The 5D3 is worth what people will pay for it. The most relevant current competitor is the D800. Nikon is a Japanese company, just like Canon. Nikon was subject to the same tsunami. Nikon is subject to the same "quantitative easing" as Canon. Despite this, the 5D3 is $500 more than the D800. Do you get $500 more? I'm not so sure. One feature I would not mind is the ability to easily add/remove the AA filter. This would make it a little more competitive with the D800E.
And is it common practice to put a simple UV filter on a L lens to protect it, or is that like taking the engine out of a Ferrari and replacing it with a civic just in case you get in a wreck?I don't know about the weather sealing of the 35mm f/1.4L. However, I use UV or clear filters on all of my Canon lenses. I highly recommend them in Alaska, as the weather there can be cold, wet, and miserable. When you are out in the field, the last thing you want to worry about is whether you should have put a protective filter on your $1,500 lens. As for brands, I have B+W and one good quality Hoya. I recommend them both, although the B+W filters have brass frames and seem more solid.
If so, what are some decent filter brands? I think I have B+W filters on my cheaper lenses.
So for that reason, I do hope that if Canon does come out with a high MP monster - that it has reasonable low light performance. Otherwise there are many options for high MP later...For now, I think the 5DMIII will serve me well in the Landscape area
I could not agree more. I have a lot of nicely framed landscape shots that are flawed because trees/bushes have moved during a long shutter period while my camera was mounted on my tripod and my ISO was set to 100.I humbly disagree.
Any serious landscape photographer will use a solid tripod and low low ISO.
Please!
Even on the tripod...
Clouds move.
Stars move.
Moments happen - a billowing of clouds over the rockies; the moment dawn breaks; the leaves in an autumn wind; the capture of a fleeting light beam in a slot canyon.
The world does not stop to match a long time exposure just to accommodate ISO 100.
I also had the 60D, but prefer not having the lock on the mode dial. I mainly use my 60D for birding and sometime need to take some video quickly which happen to be on the other end of the dial... the lock made switching to video mode quickly an issue.This pretty much sums it up for me. On the 60D, the lock becomes a hindrance if you need to switch to video mode, but that is due to the design of the dial rather than of the lock. If I was a pro, I would think the locking feature would be a welcome addition.
Probably a T4i/650D, fairly soon. Then either a 70D...+1. The pop-up flash will only be available in the "consumer" class cameras.
