September 20, 2014, 02:25:18 PM

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Messages - jasonsim

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16
Hi Folks,
Done with the charity polo event.  Thanks for the tips and advice!  Here is a first shot from the event:



More to come.

Thanks,
Jason S.

17
Thanks Dekaner.  All sound advice. Now I wish I had kept a second body :-). All I will have is the 1Dx.  Hope to just grab some with the 300mm and then maybe use the 70-200 with the 1.4x on it. Good tip for the divet stomp. I heard of that happening, but was going to shoot it from a distance. I will change that for getting right into the divet stomping action with the 24-70mm. I could leave that at home and take the 17-40mm. The ultra wide might give some interesting shots. 

Jason

I've shot a number of charity events and have never needed anything longer than a 400.  You'll be good with the setup you've listed.   The actual polo matches are not very long and they move very quickly.  Best to have two bodies.  I'd recommend the 300 w/ and w/o the 1.4 (depending on where you're standing) and the 70-200.  You'll want burst speed, so skip the flash (you may want it to shoot portraits before/after).  Somewhere in the center of the field of play is best.  A few other tricks, focus high (literally) with an aperture of f/4 or higher during the match.  There is a lot of room between the horses/riders and the background, so bokeh is not an issue but DoF is.  If you shoot center point and f/2.8, you'll get the horse's head in focus and not the rider.  Also, be prepared for the divet stomp, which is an event halfway through when they are changing horses.  Everyone goes out onto the field of play and literally puts the divots back in place and stomps on them.  You'll want to be in the middle of the action with a wide lens.  Enjoy, bring the monopod and stay hydrated!  It could take hours for the actual match to begin, but it's worth it.

18
If the sun is going to be anywhere overhead, then take something for fill light.  I have a feeling a sheet of plywood covered in aluminium foil would seem gauche at a polo match, but a flash can't hurt.

Jim

I do have a flash, but no better beemer.  Wont I be much too far away for flash to be useful?  I have a large reflector, but no assistant. :-(  You are right about the sun being right over head.  The match is scheduled to start around 2PM EDT.  Not the best for eliminating shadows.

Thanks

19
Hi Folks,

I have been enlisted to shoot a charity polo event tomorrow and looking for advice on what to bring with me.  I am thinking to bring my 1Dx with 24-70, 70-200 and 300mm f/2.8 with the two converters 1.4x and 2x. I will also take along my monopod. Do you think that is sufficient or should I drag my 600mm along?

I normally use the 600 on a large tripod, so I would rather leave it behind.

Thoughts?

Also what are some of the money shots for polo? 

Thanks,
Jason S.

20
Lenses / Re: What was your first L lens?
« on: June 05, 2014, 03:27:56 PM »
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM...since sold and upgraded to the f/2.8L IS II version.  Great lens!  I thought I was crazy for spending that type of money on a lens ($1050.00, 5 years ago).  Oh how things are very relative. :-)

21
Pricewatch Deals / Re: Deal: Canon EOS-1D X Body for $4999
« on: June 05, 2014, 03:22:47 PM »
Dam.....$4999 :o :o :o

What is "GREY MARKET" again?

Grey market refers to a camera coming directly from Canon via the dealer without any Canon USA warranty.  Might be a non authorized dealer.  Many authorized dealers do offer both USA and grey market versions.  Typically these dealers will provide their own 1 year warranty.  So if something goes wrong with the camera within that first year, you need to contact your dealer (i.e. BH or Adorama) and they handle the repair.  With a USA version, you get 1 year warranty from Canon USA and can get the thing services by Canon USA and CPS.

Thats my understanding.  Please others chime in, if I'm not on the mark.

Regards,
Jason S.

22
Lenses / Re: Need a 600mm. Don't want to pay for one
« on: June 04, 2014, 03:13:07 PM »
If you need 600mm there is no alternative to the 600mm f/4L II IS.  It simply cannot be beet.  A close second would be to use a 300mm f/2.8L II IS + 2x III.  You loose little in terms of image quality, but loose a little more in AF speed.  Sadly, I cannot recommend the 300mm f/4L IS.  It is too old and does not take the extenders well at all.  If you can live with 400mm, I'd recommend the 400mm f/5.6L. 

You might just wait for the new 100-400mm L to be released.  It should take the 1.4x III and can be used to AF on 5D III and 1Dx bodies.  Though, it is still just rumored and should be pretty expensive ( guess around $3k ).

For the price, the Tamron might be the only option without having to pony up some serious cash!

Best of luck,
Jason S.

23
Lenses / Re: The Next \
« on: May 20, 2014, 11:42:50 AM »
I was really hoping for something special before the WorldCup, but I guess Canon believes the best stuff is already available to cover the games.  I'm sure many would have like to put the 7D II through its paces there.  100-400mm II would have also been lovely on the 7D II to cover the matches.

24
Yep.  My experience too.  I used to shoot indoor ice skating with a 5D III and 135mm f/2.  Too slow to keep up.  The 1Dx does a little better with the 135mm f/2L, but not much.  To get the best Servo performance with your 5D III you need to use 24-70mm f/2.8L II and 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II.

Hi there.
I was shooting a wedding yesterday. 5d iii worked great with one major exception. When shooting couples dancing (iso around 5000 1/200 s ). it was not able to deliver a sharp image (maybe one sharp in 10 shots) lenses used 50 f/1.4 , 85 f/1.8,  135 f/2L and 16-35 f/2.8 L II. Servo mode tried differnet cases different settings (points, first image priority etc). It was not a motion blur. Does anyone have an experience working with these lenses in servo?  I mean I tried everything with no result. Are these lenses simply too slow for tracking?  Was it too dark?  Thanks.

25
EOS Bodies / Re: Canon Interested in Hasselblad?
« on: May 12, 2014, 12:55:02 PM »
What?  You need a larger sensor for higher resolution?  The Nokia smartphone has 40MP...come on.  What needs to happen is make the denser res sensors better and less leaking from pixel to pixel. Also better technology like Foveon sensor (I think Canon was looking into that possibility).

There also becomes a point where the resolution game gets to a stasis level...don't know if that is 45MP, 55PM, 100MP...

Just getting to the Nikon 800 MP level would be a win and they'd grow their market share for sure. 

not sure if Canon should buy Hassey, but perhaps they should buy a portion and allow Hassey access to their sensor and digital body technology.

If we look 5-10 years out, 35 mm format bodies will be maxed out with resolution and FPS.  25-100,000 ISO will become nearly noiseless.  Where does Canon (or Nikon) go from there?

An increase in resolution will require a larger sensor.  Challenge for Canon to get consumers (pros) to switch to MF is that the current lenses will not (most likely) work on MF bodies.  So even if Canon came up with a $10,000 MF body, another $25,000 (or more) would be required for a new set of lenses.

26
Software & Accessories / Re: Gimbal Head: Wimberley Vs Jobu
« on: May 10, 2014, 11:44:05 AM »
Congratulations on the Wimberley WH-200.  I use one also.  I did replace the stock cradle and clamp with the RRS PG-CC though:

http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7528/.f

Just makes it a bit easier to lock in the lens foot, especially since I have the RRS foot on my big white.

Kind regards,
Jason

Hi guys
I would like to have your feedbacks on gimbal tripod head.

To support BIG WHITE, which Gimbal head you guys use? Any third party(low cost) out there?

At this time, I'm leaning to Wimberley + Wimberley - P10 Quick Release Plate: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/404536-REG/Wimberley_WH_200_Gimbal_Type_Tripod_Head.html

Thanks
Dylan

My WimberleyII Arrived today....AWESOME ;) Thanks everyone.

I bought the WIMBERLEY II and a cheap gimbal head on amazon(not as smooth as the Wimberley)

I'm going to return the cheaper  version: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-GH1-Heavy-Gimbal-Supports/dp/B0071BIQZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399066268&sr=8-1&keywords=gimbal+head

27
EOS Bodies / Thinking about moving from a 1Dx back to 5D MkIII
« on: May 08, 2014, 09:09:11 PM »
I'm again thinking about selling off my 1Dx and picking up a 5D Mk III again.  It will be my third 5D III in two years or so. 

Negatives about the 1Dx as compared to the 5D III:

1.  only 18 MP; I need to crop most of the time even when using my 600mm + 1.4x.  I photograph mostly birds with this combo. 

2.  Loud shutter.  I get all kind of looks from parents when I photograph events ( indoor ice skating, tae kwon do, birthday parties).

3.  Heavy; especially with pro f/2.8 zooms.

4.  Most of the time, with 12 or 10 FPS I feel overwhelmed with the number of exposures I take back with me and post process. 

Positives for the 1Dx:

1.  12fps when really needed; like shooting BIF.

2.  Spot metering on any AF point (not just the center point).

3.  A bit faster AF speed on most lenses.

4.  better metering and AWB.

5.  the new auto exposure compensation when in Manual mode.  Not really used it, but would have loved it when I photographed eagles last Nov. 

6.  Ergonomic portrait shutting (built in grip)...I never liked the bolt on grips of the smaller EOS bodies.  They just seem out of place and not really ergonomic.

I could use some funds to feed another expensive hobby of mine...so the spare $3k might go a long way.  Or I can sell off some other lenses like the 70-200mm f/4L and 17-40mm f/4L.  These are kinda overlaps since I have the f/2.8L's. 

Anyone think that Canon will trickle down the auto exposure compensation in manual mode to the 5D III?  The last firmware update for it was over 6 months ago. 

Thanks for insight and constructive brain storming.  BTW, this is a hobby and I don't earn a living from photography.  I am called upon occasionally to do family portraits and shot important event ( got a polo event to shoot in June ). 

-- Jason

28
Software & Accessories / Re: The best tripod ...
« on: April 28, 2014, 05:17:12 PM »
Unless you want to buy twice or thrice, I would suggest you buy a Gitzo or RRS (Really Right Stuff) tripod and a RRS ball head.  If you need a gimbal type head for the big lenses, I use one for my 600mm II, I recommend the Wimberley WH-200.  I would not trust putting nearly $20k in gear (600m II + 1Dx) on a tripod made in China.

Best of luck in your search!

--Jason S.

Hi everyone,

I'm looking to take my photography hobby to the next level, so to speak  :D, so I'm thinking of buying me a tripod and a tripod head. I've done some research online, but I think I'm more confused now, than when I started thinking about tripods and heads.  ;D (I guess, that happens a lot). From my understanding, Manfrotto and Induro seem to be the best tripod brands, so I'm looking to get the above mentioned gear from either of these two. I'm more inclined, however, towards Induro products.

In so many words, what do you guys make of this?

29
The Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM does not AF very accurately either.  I get some misses even on a 1Dx and must sometimes "rack" the AF, before I can trust it.

The AF on the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art was really reliable for me on the 1Dx and 6D.  So, I would not discount that Sigma has improved things drastically in these new Art lenses. 

Kind regards,
Jason

I say Sigmas AF in the new lenses is pretty good for the money....
If I can't trust it, it's worthless.
That was how I felt with the erratic and occasionally brilliant old model Sigma 50mm f/1.4.
My two copies got used for some personal work, endless testing but simply couldn't be trusted for client work. Therefore ultimately worthless.

I truly hope Sigma finds an AF fix for the new lenses deliverable via firmware. The optics are clearly awesome, but without dependable AF they're a commercial no-go.

-pw

30
Canon General / Re: $10,000
« on: April 22, 2014, 01:23:40 PM »
Hmm, from scratch you say?

5D mk III - 3500
24-70 mk II - 2300
70-200 IS mk II - 2500

and maybeee Sony RX1 or some fast prime probably sigma 35mm or sigma 50mm

That would be my starting point too! 

5D mk III - 3500
24-70 mk II - 2300
70-200 IS mk II - 2500

and there is room for a few 600 RT flashes and an umbrella or two. 

That's all that is really needed, maybe the two mark III extenders, if they were into wildlife or field sports like soccer.

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