April 16, 2014, 09:28:47 AM

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Messages - Viggo

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46
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1D X, Dual Back Button AF
« on: March 21, 2014, 10:45:50 AM »
can the 5D3 do this?  :o
Nope.  Looking at the manual, I think you can set both buttons to start AF, but not to have one do AIServo and the other One-shot AF.

Viggo, I might have to give this a try, but I really don't use one shot AF.  I just lock focus with AI Servo and release the back button.  For the 50 & 85 f/1.2 lenses, this might help with accuracy for hand held portraits, so maybe I'll give that a try now that I am a proud new 1D X owner :D

I also not use One Shot at all. Tried it 4 times since I bought the 1d4 when it was new, lol.

47
EOS Bodies / Re: EOS-1D X, Dual Back Button AF
« on: March 21, 2014, 08:46:49 AM »
Just to add another tip in the same category.

I have used a similar setup since the 1dx came out. I haven't used the AE-button for One shot (obviously, but I have used the AE button for a "Case 6 scenario", Case 6, 4 point expansion, faster shutter, framrate etc, and the AF-ON button for Case 1 with single point etc. That way I cover both "normal" movement and stable tracking, but a slight move of my thumb sets the 1dX in "race-mode" ready for erratic craziness. I also use the M.fn button next to the shutter for Level, veryvery handy.


48
Lenses / Re: Sigma 50mm F/1.4 Art listed in Belarus for $790
« on: March 21, 2014, 06:54:55 AM »
I doubt this lens be made in Japan. It's more likely be made in China.

We all know the labor cost in China ;)

If you really think that, you don't know Sigma!

Indeed I don't...do I really need to know Sigma when my lenses are L? :P
Well now you know that your 35mm is soft, has tons of CA and a whole world of vignetting compared to the Sigma...you do have that plastic & a red ring that you paid an extra $500 for, tho.  :o

Since when did the 35 Art have LESS vignetting than the 35 L ??

49
Lenses / Re: Sigma 50mm F/1.4 Art listed in Belarus for $790
« on: March 20, 2014, 06:42:04 AM »
That's yet another thing I don't get, buying brand new lenses. I always compare used prices when it comes to price differences. So a used 5 year old 35 L isn't much more money than a brand new used 35 Art, which makes the money argument less valid, although it is still more money for the 35 L. And I'm not going to beat the very dead horse and say the 35 Art AF is the reason I don't own one, I actually tried a third 35 art the other day and the AF was stable and okay, NOTHING like the one I bought, so it is possible.

I can't wait to try the Sigma 50 Art, that's for sure.

My 35 Art AF is perfect, can't fault it, I couldn't really notice much in it when i tested side by side with the 35L
the 85 Siggy AF is good but its not so great in servo wide open tracking moving subjects but then neither is the slower AF of the 85L

Always had some problems with the 85 L AF, but it has always been VERY consistent. And on a 1-series it's much faster than on a 5d and I find the new 1dx firmware to do great things with the 85, it's highly useable for tracking my running kids indoors now. To me I would much rather have a AF lens being consistent but slow than impossible to get ten shots In a row equally sharp.

50
Lenses / Re: Sigma 50mm F/1.4 Art listed in Belarus for $790
« on: March 20, 2014, 04:59:30 AM »
That's yet another thing I don't get, buying brand new lenses. I always compare used prices when it comes to price differences. So a used 5 year old 35 L isn't much more money than a brand new used 35 Art, which makes the money argument less valid, although it is still more money for the 35 L. And I'm not going to beat the very dead horse and say the 35 Art AF is the reason I don't own one, I actually tried a third 35 art the other day and the AF was stable and okay, NOTHING like the one I bought, so it is possible.

I can't wait to try the Sigma 50 Art, that's for sure.

51
Lenses / Re: Sigma 50mm F/1.4 Art listed in Belarus for $790
« on: March 19, 2014, 06:16:47 PM »
Why is it soo difficult for the 35 Art fanboys to accept that people can like the 35 L better?

52
Someone should make WiFi batteries for it....

I have not yet ever needed more than the two batteries I have, but it has been very close on one or two occasions. The ability to recharge them using some form of magic like WiFi would be amazing!  8)

Not exactly what I meant. I meant that instead of using the Canon Wifi adapter or wifi memory cards, one can insert a battery with built in wifi instead. That way we don't have to add the bulk of the transmitter.

53
Canon General / Re: Review: Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT
« on: March 17, 2014, 06:50:33 PM »
I haven't had the same unreliable connection with my YN-E3-RT as you guys have, but It definitely feels cheaper, and didn't do well when I had it outdoors for a -30C shoot (I can't comment on if the Canon could have fared better).

As for reliability: I'd say the Canon is more reliable at being reliable - less "It works, most of the time at least". Either black or white, no greys in Canonland. Might just be a more demanding setting for the frequency evaluation program? Who knows?

At -30C most batteries go to sleep, and that small thing hasn't enough mass to provide thermal capacity or insulation to keep at least some warmth in and the chemistry going. In such circumstances Lithium cells work best, either the ~1.6V-1.7V AA-sized ones or if you want to go the distance replacing two AAs in series with a single CR123A primary might be an option. Those still work in conditions that would probably have killed your gear a while ago.

On that note, has anyone seen a lithium batterypack to replace the 4 AA's in a flash? For me, and others it would be less of a need to bring the external battery packs, and run longer in wet weather, where a battery back is not the best option.

54
Canon General / Re: Review: Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E3-RT
« on: March 17, 2014, 02:42:42 PM »
Anyone tried manually searching the optimal frequency?

I tried my Canon st-e3 until it lost connection, I then went to the "Scan"-mode and it found a frequency for me and I more than doubled the range, I was VERY surprised, since Canon just states 30m and that's it.

55
or simply, happy with the slightly off results.
This is certainly possible! I don't know to what accuracy you measure the results. I am happy if the AF works very well for practical results. I admit I don't measure if it works down to the last millimeter but if I focus on the eye and the eye is in focus I don't try to see if the focus is 0.5mm in front of or behind the eye if the eye is not blurry and not defocused, especially since I post process all my images. Sharpened/edge sharpened OOF area looks BAD. If you do your PP and it looks good (sharp, focused) then I don't think there's a difference if it's the tiniest bit off, if you can't see it in the final result (in practice).

Yes it depends on how much one care, I for one do not pay huge amounts of money to settle for sharp enough, when a little afma makes them the way they should be sharp like tack.

The best and most accurate way to do it, by far, is FoCal.

56
I've had to AFMA all my gear but he claims his lens doesn't need it. Hmmm, it could happen....

Thanks again.
Actually, I think it sounds just as suspicious if you've had to afma ALL your gear. Are you sure your camera is okay or that your lens supplier isn't supplying you with lemons? I don't think it's normal that you don't get a single perfect lens. A big reason for buying high end lenses, among others, is that they tend to be better calibrated in the factory and the tolerances for quality control are higher.
I guess I'm confused by both comments - first of all "had to AFMA all my gear" - we lived without AFMA for a while and were okay, so I don't think it has to be done.  On the other hand, I have chosen to AFMA all of my lenses and all but one of them were in the +2 to +5 range and one was +9.  Keep in mind that all of my AF lenses are f/1.2 to 2.8 and I calibrated extenders as applicable, I think that's pretty good.
To me that is more indicative of camera bodies that are slightly out of tolerance and lenses vs. having lemons, especially the f/1.4 and f/1.2 lenses. 

The only lenses I've ever had that were at "0" were my 400 f/5.6 and my 70-200 f/4 IS, which is more a result of their aperture vs. some level of exceptional quality.  Obviously Canon provided this capability because their manufacturing tolerances aren't tight enough to give a "0" for every lens/body combination out there, so I certainly wouldn't consider a lens a "lemon" if it needs some AFMA.  I had a 135 f/2 that was beyond +20, so I sent it to Canon and they corrected the optical alignment, but it was still a +2 afterwards.

+1, to get optimal sharpness with a lens/camera combo, it almost always needs a +/- afma value. I've owned 5-6 bodies and 30+ lenses and only one copy of two lenses where no afma needed, and only on one body. If you have 6-7 lenses on one or two bodies, and claim none of them combos need afma, I dare say you are not doing the calibration well enough, or simply, happy with the slightly off results.

57

In Tv mode, it's nice when shooting a fast lens to be able to set a max aperture to maintain sufficient DoF, for example.

Then again, M mode with exposure compensation would more or less make the other modes pointless. Oh... 1DX has that too.

You really think you can adjust with exposure comp between frames at 12 fps of a dude running in and out of the shadows or between flickering lights at a concert or the two combined?

I worry about comp/framing, AF , not exposure in a burst or when tracking a subject.

58

With the 1-series you can set your minimum shutter for example at 1/1000s in Av, so you can get up to 1/8000s if there is enough light, and like Neuro said, if a player drops in to the shadows or into the sun, you will never have longer shutter than 1/1000s, but always correct exposure.

Pretty sure that's only for the 1DX and even then only with the most recent firmware update.  Previous bodies were, for no obvious reason, limited to 1/60th of a second for minimum shutter speed.

No, 1dx always had this function, the 1d4 also has this. "Set Shutterspeed range"

*edit* the 1d3 also has this function.

59
There is no reason to use Av mode for anything. Manual exposure will always give better results and is not slower. You set the exposure at the beginning of the game and leave it at that. If something crazy like the weather turning from full sunshine to a thunderstorm happens you can easily adjust the shutter speed or aperture, takes no time at all. I don't think Av mode has any advantage and for football or other sports it makes no sense at all. For sports you would use Tv priority because shutter speed is more important to freeze motion, but again manual exposure is less of a hassle than Tv and EC. Human perception of sharpness is based on contrast. Auto exposure overexposes leading to less contrast and softer appearance.

With the 1-series you can set your minimum shutter for example at 1/1000s in Av, so you can get up to 1/8000s if there is enough light, and like Neuro said, if a player drops in to the shadows or into the sun, you will never have longer shutter than 1/1000s, but always correct exposure.

And try to image just how incredibly useful this is at a concert with mental flashing lights.

"No reason to use Av" whatever...

60
Lighting / Re: Anyone using Honl flash gel filter
« on: March 11, 2014, 05:04:52 PM »
I use Honhl and really like it, I still have the leak problem out on the sides as I did with the 600 ex canon holder. Careful placement of the flash if bouncing off the ceiling is needed.

The Velcro strap does not go anywhere when tightened properly, best I've used.

On a sidenote I don't like flimsy gels like 99% of them are , I would like glass gels or like the MagMod system.

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