December 21, 2014, 11:02:53 AM

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Messages - sanj

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16
EOS Bodies - For Video / Re: 1dc life span
« on: December 13, 2014, 11:08:35 PM »
Thank you Mt. Spokane

17
Lenses / Re: Review: Canon EOS 7D Mark II
« on: December 13, 2014, 10:07:05 PM »
There is much more to a photo than IQ. Many who can't afford the 1dx or longer telephotos will find 7d2 ideal for their needs. They will know it is not the very best IQ in the market, but the very best IQ that they can afford.
And MANY MANY times the 2nd best IQ is just FINE. And difference visible only to pixel peeping photographers.

18
What genre do you guys use this type of lens for?   I'm having a hard time imagining what I would do with it.   At that price, I assume there is something it excels at?

What?

19
Photography Technique / Re: What can old-school photogs do better (or not)?
« on: December 13, 2014, 09:30:40 PM »

Sir I am perhaps older than you. But disagree with lots of what you say:


We agree on quite a bit too.  But I've found the way that works for me, you've found the ways that work for you.
All happy  :)

Absolutely Tinky. Nice to meet you. You have a lovely attitude and passion….

20
Photography Technique / Re: What can old-school photogs do better (or not)?
« on: December 13, 2014, 10:24:26 AM »
Any old school photographer worth their salt will have embraced the new technologies that are useful to them and retained the traditional skills that are useful to them.

I have been shooting stills on a strictly hobby basis for more than 20 years, after my degree I trained as a cameraman at technical college 15 years ago and have worked as a cameraman ever since.    I find it funny how many DoPs there are these days. 

I use a mixture of skills, some honed by necessity, some old habit, some only possible thanks to digital:

1. I never shoot anything without a plan.  My eng kit is too heavy to just turn up and hope it's right.  Locations, weather, tide tables, position if the sun during my intended shooting time (or moving my shoot time to suit the position of the sun) and film was just too expensive.  I used those skills then.  I use them now.  TPE, Streetview, flickr etc all make virtual reccies a lot easier.   That is not to say there are occassions when I need to improvise.  But I'll have planned my kit as well.   Fail to prepare, prepare to fail. 

2. Use manual.  Manual everything.  For video especially.  The wrong shutter speed can ruin perception of motion.  AWB cannot be graded.  AF is not good enough for video.  Especially on large sensor cameras.  So a calibrated viewfinder is essential (using colour bars, to your eye)  Settings display is essential.  No hunting.  No auto-ramping.  No f-drop.  Knowing without looking what way to turn your focus ring and by how much.

For sports stills I will switch between aiservo for close up tracking, and one shot af lock, say at motorsports, when I want to frame a scene and batter the motor drive as the subject passes through.  With live view zoom I may even switch to mf so as to be pre-focused on a jump, or apex of a bend etc.  Yes one shot of 20 will be in focus, but thats better than no shots as the tracking warms up, or if the subject is concealed before your ideal shot.   I don't see folks do this so much these days... tends to be track and spray.

3. Filtration.  Apart from the ubiquitous extreme nd filters I rarely see people use nd grads or even polarisers in the field.  Photoshop cannot fix everything.  And whilst many obsess over DR etc.. a soft grad nd can really help to nail it.

4.  I have an attitude of wanting to get it right in the can.  Yes I have the digital tools, yes I can use them, but I would rather plan, prepare, filter and get it as right as possible in the camera.

5.  A support.  Always.  A monopod or superclamp and ball head at the minimum.  My video grip extends to rigs, shoulder mounts, gimbals.  My camera is always supported in some way (except say my rebel or m with a short lens in good light)

6. Using flash or lighting.  Again for video especially.  Catchlights engage. 

7. Silly formulas that work.  sunny16.  1 over fl.

8. A set of kodak encyclopedias.  Browsing through to kill time, picking up all sorts.  exotic techniques like darkfield.  how to mix flash with ambient.  why you can use iso50 and f16 indoors.  How non-stop down metering works. thise yellow books were a goldmine.

9.  For black and white, unless you have a dedicated sensor design... it needs to be film.

I remember moving from an EOS 1000fn to a 5 (a2e) and discovering things like mirror lock up, depth of field preview, but I guess the biggest thing that starting on film taught me, and that a technical education taught me (that a ba never) is that it isn't about the gear.  It's about the light.  It's all about the light.

Sir I am perhaps older than you. But disagree with lots of what you say:
1. I shoot lots of spontaneous shots. Its lot of fun. Planning is good but after a while being in the moment and flow is far more important.
2. Manual? No way. I take all the help from technology that I can: auto focus, aperture priority. These two beauties help me go faster and get lot more keepers.
3. I would use a filter when can but I do not underestimate photoshop at all.
4. Yes.
5. I would use support only ONLY when doing dedicated landscapes. Otherwise IS works fine for me. Yes.
6. Yes.
7. ?
8. Yes yes.
9. No no.

BIG YES TO: It's about the light (and the story) [Not about manual or support or over prep]. :)

21
Photography Technique / Re: What can old-school photogs do better (or not)?
« on: December 13, 2014, 10:12:04 AM »
9.  For black and white, unless you have a dedicated sensor design... it needs to be film.

Why ? When bayer sensors are black and white anyway, only using colour interpolation from the prime colour filters.

You haven't been taken in by the Leica marketing machine have you ?  ;)

Of course one does not need film or Leica. This is the good old 5d2

22
EOS Bodies - For Video / 1dc life span
« on: December 13, 2014, 09:19:15 AM »
Hi.
I have been using the 1dc as second camera on features lately and also renting it out quite a bit. So much so that it seems like I need to buy another body to keep up with rentals.
My concern is that what if something new with internal 4k recording is released into the market soon, the resale value of the 1dc will drop dramatically.
What do you all think? Thanks for any suggestions.

23
Post Processing / Re: Post processing opinion/advice
« on: December 13, 2014, 09:00:54 AM »
Wow EVERYONE.

Thank you thank you.

24
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Which mf split screen for 5d2/6d?
« on: December 10, 2014, 07:33:39 AM »
This sounds great. Will it fit 1dx? I really really want a nice manual focus screen for 1dx to go with my Zeiss lenses.

25
Third Party Manufacturers / Re: Co-worker dumps $5k on Nikon
« on: December 09, 2014, 08:33:40 AM »
Leave her alone. Her money. Her holiday. Her photos. Her choice.

26
I was looking at the comparison before/after ... that you posted earlier. 
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=24028.0;attach=127750;image

Sorry, but to me it does not look good, afterwards.
Personally, I would lift exposure by about +1 EV globally on a capture like your original image - but not more.
Heck, it is a dark environment, deep in the shade. I find it perfectly OK if the resulting image also shows this.

But again, I do not want to pick a fight here. Quite likely that some of you here have far superior PP skills to mine and that you get away with shadows +3 EV pulled up from a Canon (7D or similar crop) sensor . At least in some pictures.

Opposite example to your image ist the one LeeJay posted, the shopping mall or hotel lobby ... uniformly bright place, hardly any contiguos dark areas in the image, and those visible do not contain image-relevant information/detail, so it is hard to see noise or degradation in details from NR.

I just know, that *I* would NOT be able to create the image linked in the starting post (Erez) from a single exposure on a Canon 7D or any other crop sensro (except 7D II which I don't know anything about yet).

And I also know first hand what some of my budies can do with Raws from D7100, A7, D800. There is a whole magnitude more potential to lift shadows in low ISO captures.

btw: no, I have not seen the Erez image in full resolution either, but I don't think there es a lot of detail loss/image degradation from lifting shadws visible.

Me neither.

27
He is praising Sony for, and we are debating, an image that could have been produced with a single frame from any modern camera including the just discontinued original 7D.

No. Definitely not. I have used the 7d for the past 5 years and know its sensor very well. There is no way on earth to produce this very image done by erez marom with a canon 7d from a single exposure, no matter how much you pull the sliders in post processing. Just no way.

Personally, I never apply more than max! +/- 50 on highlights and shadows sliders or more than max +1.2 stops shadow pull in local adjustments on my 7d captures, since the image falls apart otherwise - every time.

Btw: yes, Erez has blended 2 captures for this image, but both are taken at exactly the same exposure. He was forced to do so, to eliminate lens flare from the image in post processing  ... because he used a canon lens (16-35/2.8 ii) on his sony camera. Maybe the new sony zeiss fe 16-35/4 will make his life even easier should it prove to be more flare-resistant even when the sun is directly in the frame. I don't know about that - just sayin' ...

This is my opinion as well.

28
Give me one good reason why you want to jump through hoops finding ways and workarounds to achieve the desired results when there is other equipment that makes the process much easier.

How is the process much easier?
You are still post-processing a lot more.
Its really about pre-production vs. post-production, if you spend a little more time setting up before the shot, then you won't have to spend more time in front of a computer. Or vice-versa.

Process is easier as the photographer need not bracket the shots while shooting.
With a high DR sensor he/she can pull up the blacks in post and get the result.

If a proper DR shot was been taken a whole lot more work would need to be done.

29
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: buying suggestion: a 5D3 or 1Dx?
« on: December 09, 2014, 03:49:11 AM »
Late to the party on this thread.  I have both 5d3 and 1DX.  1DX  has about 1 f stop better ISO than 5D3.  For events like wedding and such, 5D3 is much quieter.  But you can also put the 1DX in single shot quiet mode.  The 5D3 has high speed quiet mode.  If I were you, I'd buy the 5D3.  Loi

Nooooooo.

AND have you tried the single shot quiet mode in 1dx? I doubt.

But yeah 5d3 will work for him just fine. :)

30
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: buying suggestion: a 5D3 or 1Dx?
« on: December 09, 2014, 03:42:00 AM »
Neuro when do you guesstimate 5d4 will be released? I trust your judgement and am curious. Thanks for your reply in advance.
I think Spring 2016.  But we might see a different line start up (high MP, lower fps) before that.
Agreed. Even if I wasn't asked :-p

thank you both!! :)

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