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Topics - revup67

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Black & White / Shadow Casting
« on: October 24, 2012, 11:53:27 AM »
I spotted a group on Flickr called Lights and Shadows checked around in here and came up empty handed.  Thought to initiate this topic and see what a new thread on Shadows brings about with the wealth of Canon photographers that enter this forum and hopefully this thread.

Shadow Factory by Revup67, on Flickr

Domino Sugar Plant - Brooklyn, NY by Revup67, on Flickr

5D MK III Sample Images / Canon 5D Mark III and the MP-E 65 Macro photos
« on: September 27, 2012, 09:31:54 PM »
Finally opted to place the MP-E 65 on a 5D Mark III with the MT 24EX macro flash (+ stofen filters) and snapped off this shot of a Brown Widow (female) spider from it's under carriage.  The MP-E 65 was at 3.5 magnification.  MT EX24 (manual mode 1/1) was on a pair of gorilla arms flash holders as well as a macro rail on a Bogen tripod with a Manfrotto HD 701 video head.  With the wind swaying its web back and forth it was difficult to maintain focus but was fortunate enough to grab this beauty (1920 x 1280)

Lenses / What 3 lenses do you dream of and long to own?
« on: September 25, 2012, 03:29:24 AM »
200mm F2 - oh so sharp, portrait heaven

600mm F4 IS USM II - I know I'll never own this in my lifetime @ 13k but it would be incredible I'm sure for wildlife (came close with a 400mm 5.6 and a 7D = 640 :)

TS-E 17mm - the bokeh on this lens is fantastic, presently don't own a TS-E lens but would make this a first.

Canon EF Prime Lenses / Canon EF 200mm f/2.8L II USM
« on: September 18, 2012, 03:42:18 AM »
Recently acquired this lens and am very impressed.  It was a toss up between the F2 version for $4800 or this one for $779.  I won't compare the two however as the quality of the F2 is bar none but on a Canon 5D Mark III this 2.8 version is an excellent combo.  It's lack of IS is of no consequence as the lens is rather comfortable to hold and lightweight.  Just got this Friday 9-14-12.  Here's a first set of pics from a concert I shot on 9/17/12 (this pic was posted elsewhere in the forum under Lenses).  All photos are converted from RAW (L) to 1920 JPG then down sampled again to 1024 for this forum.  5D Mark III was set to Manual Mode except ISO set to Auto.  It would be far too confusing to have to adjust ISO for the ever changing lights and their intensity.  In certain instances (not here) I did use a 580 EX II on a bracket off camera.

Photo 1 EXIF:  F3.2, ISO 5000, 1/200s
Photo 2 EXIF:  F4, ISO 400, 1/200s
Photo 3 EXIF:  F4, ISO 400, 1/200s

Lenses / The 200mm Prime 2.8 II USM a real sleeper
« on: September 18, 2012, 01:17:15 AM »
After considering a 70-200 (all versions) but owning the already expensive 70-300 L IS USM I had opted for the 200mm 2.8 II prime and couldn't be more jazzed with my choice.  The attached photo taken yesterday of a singer in a local rock outfit (without flash) on a Canon 5D Mark III really makes this lens shine.  I took shots up close and from far away and quite pleased with all of the results

Anyone else out in CR land using this lens ?  From my readings it doesn't get much exposure and is overshadowed by the 70-200 IS USM 2.8 II.

On a side note, the lens hood was a struggle to get on and off.  I called Canon who were of zero hep for ideas other than to bring it to the service center.  I wouldn't mind the 30 minute drive each way if they had one to exchange but trying to obtain that info today was fruitless.  To lessen the struggle and come up with resolve, I opted to put the lens hood on and off again multiple times (forward and reverse for storage) and it seems to have loosened up quite a bit.

PS EXIF info is:  F 3.2 IS0 5000, 1/200, no flash, AI Focus.  Image is from a RAW to a 1920 JPG to a 1024 JPG

Lighting / Need Assistance on how to improve skin tones with strobes
« on: September 14, 2012, 03:03:29 AM »
In the following attachments you will note an untouched portrait straight out of the Canon 5D Mark III and then a post processed (in CS5 and LightRoom) which took about another half hour.  I used 2 Elinchrom 400 watt strobes at almost the lowest setting which was 2.2 to achieve a 6.3 and 1/100th light meter read at ISO 50

Does anyone have any suggestions with an older audience how to capture better portraits without all the red areas as in the untouched photo?  Am I perhaps too close with the strobes?  The 2 strobes were about 6 feet high (client seated), facing downward angle of about 45 degrees and approximately 16 inches form subject.  Each strobe was placed about 6 feet apart at 45 degree angles

Hope that helps to describe my setup to offer suggestions.  Thanks in advance.

Lighting / Test Your Knowledge with Strobes/Thinking outside the Soft Box
« on: September 12, 2012, 02:02:59 PM »
Here's a photo I shot with two Elinchrom soft boxes and no external / remote flash in cold or hot shoe. 

Note the strange phenomenon at the lower part of the photo where you can see a slight gradient from dark to normal as you look upward in the portrait .  It took me a bit to figure out why this was happening but ultimately found the answer.  I put my Sekonic L-358 meter in "cordless flash" mode (meaning it captured the proper lighting of the  two soft boxes when they fired) suggested 1/200 at F 6.3 so there was plenty of light with the recommended settings for manual and I was below the hi-speed sync setting of 1/250.  The soft boxes were at 45 degree angles and about 18 inches away from the subject and upward angled position of above 6.5 feet high and 30 degree angled downward.  The subject was seated in an armless chair that swiveled left to right.  I had a 42" reflector on a swivel arm in front of the subject at waist height for any facial shadow fill ins. I used a Canon 5D Mark III and a 100mm USM L IS Macro lens for this portrait in ISO 50. So what could it be?

Lighting / Perplexed on Aperture Choosing with Sekonic Meter
« on: September 09, 2012, 03:20:09 AM »
In the following studio scenario I have 2 x Elinchrom softboxes (400watt) series set at 2.0 which is the lowest light setting placed at 45 degrees in front of subject at approximately3-4 feet away.  The setup is in a garage with minimal ambient light from the front of the garage's small windows in which it appears the soft boxes are overriding.  I am using a Sekonic L-358 meter on the cordless flash setting which means it is put in the queue and waits for the burst of strobes (2 softboxes) to offer up a reading.  I can increase the shutter or decrease the shutter and at 1/200 I am at 7.1.  The problem is for the portraits I would rather use a wider aperture such as 4.0 (Using the canon 5D Mark III and 100mm 2.8 L USM Macro with IS).  Unfortunately in cordless flash mode you can only work the shutter and the Av changes with it on the fly.  I'd rather place 4.0 and see what the shiutter should be however  I am thinking hi-speed sync at this point if the Elinchrom set up offers this (it may).  I would be curious to any other options thought you may have such as pulling the soft boxes back further (?) to obtain that wider aperture.  I've attached a sample of a portrait of a couple I shot.  This was my very first session with the Elinchrom setup.  I also had a 580EX about 8 feet high set at rear/left at 1/4 Manual  to increase highlights in hair.  Open to any thoughts or should I not be concerned with the 7.1 setting for portraits?

Lighting / Sekonic RT Module-32
« on: August 13, 2012, 05:54:51 PM »
After acquiring this recently along with an L-358 Meter together as a set, the RT is not compatible with the Elinchrom system..darn.  Apparently, best I can tell, there are no Sekonic modules that work with Elinchrom SkyPorts..double darn. Though I can use the standard flash icon meter and put it in the queue, once it see the flash fire from Elinchrom DLites it does offer a fairly accurate reading but no way to do an exact sync.

If anyone in the U.S. wants to take this Module off my hands just send me a PM.  If there is a module I am not aware of that does work with the L-358 and can radio sync with the Skyports I would be most interested.

I recently read that the onboard light meter of your camera along with its histogram still are not as accurate as a Light Meter and can produce incorrect or slightly skewed factors hence my acquisition of the Sekonic L-358 Light Meter.  I can't say enough great things about this device especially for determining accuracy in Aperture and Shutter in setting values in the camera's (M) Manual mode especially when using a strobe system - simply essential.

 My question then may be for any seasoned Light Meter experts out there that shoot landscape scenes.  I am aware I can change the Lumiscope on this device for outdoor use, however where does one take a light reading when shooting a mountain range as an example or any wide area to be photographed?  I realize in some cases say with a baseball field you can walk to a particular point, get the light reading if you wanted and plug it in on your camera say for a particular object on the baseball field such as a dugout but what an inaccessible landscape? Or is the answer so simply as saying in the front of your camera? Thanks in advance

Lighting / Portrait Lighting - Newbie
« on: July 27, 2012, 12:53:30 AM »
I'm finally getting some interest in portrait photos and will need a mobile lighting set up.  I've got the right camera gear 5D MKII and 580EXII and plenty of lenses (L) but know this is certainly not enough.

I found a new kit on craigs list.  woman says she's a reseller and the kit includes everything in this link and is sufficient for up to 4 people / person portraits.

Price is $389 and made by QY160.

Any comments from anyone would be appreciated or a redirect to alternatives is fine as well.

Thanks for the help.

Here's a photo of Steve Walker keyboardist from Modern English about 4 hours before his show at the Coach House in San Juan Capistrano, CA 7-12-12 (24-105 @ 65mm / 4.5 / ISO 100 / 1/1250s

Software & Accessories / FoCal Pro version 1.5 and the 5D Mark III
« on: July 20, 2012, 02:54:18 AM »
I opted to pull the trigger and acquire this much anticipated software.  At first glance, it can be a bit overwhelming in printing targets, lining up the camera so the targets are precise, installing software on a laptop (not a desktop) as you will more than likely need space to roam especially with Tele's zooms .  There are many things to keep in mind when setting up for this calibration though the software does a good job of pointing most of those out.

I noted however the software did a few unusual things to at least my 5D that weren't there before.  For one, the shutter release was reprogrammed to perform a different function other than to focus.  I found this out when I tried to focus on the printed chart and lost all AF capabilities.  I swapped out the 24-105 lens with a 100mm 2.8 L and nothing (still no focus).  I put the 24-105 on my 7D and it was fine so I had isolated it was in fact the 5D.  I then checked Custom Controls and found the 5D M3 was reprogrammed.  I also noted Spot Metering kept getting turned on as well as the Exposure was up by a +1.  On a few occasions I also found Custom White Balance toggled on and not AWB.  The printed 8.5 x 11 FoCal chart did not work with the 16-35mm 2.8 MK II lens.  It just simply wouldn't focus at 1 foot (MFD is .92 feet) or 5 feet which is perhaps due to the target being too small?  Not sure.  I ran the Aperture sharpness tests on the same lens (the 100mm 2.8 L) consecutively twice and got different results.  The camera nor the light did not change.  The first time is showed the 7.1 was the sharpest aperture then it showed on a second run that 4.5 was the sharpest aperture.  One would think it would be consistent - same test same camera, same lens.

Any one else have any comments on this or own this software with the 5D Mark III?  PS I found the Martin Bailey site had it on a promo for £45 British pounds or $73 US vs  £69.95 or $112.21 USD.

PS I did see the blurb on the web site:  "Does FoCal change my camera settings?"

"FoCal changes a number of settings on the camera while running the test (e.g. aperture, ISO, metering etc.).  Before each test is run, the current settings of the camera are stored on the computer.  When the test completes, the settings are restored so your camera is back exactly as you had it before running the test.

Should anything go wrong (e.g. a power cut, the camera battery running out, the cable being unplugged etc.), the next time FoCal is run with the camera connected it will offer to restore the settings exactly as they were."

The camera was not reset hence the documenting of the above issues. Perhaps this is specific to the 5D MK 3

5D MK III Sample Images / Post Your Summer Beach Shots here
« on: July 10, 2012, 03:53:16 AM »
Spent the latter part of the day in San Clemente at the beach here in southern Cal.  It was bright and sunny and everyone was happy.  I opted to change this mood as we photographers can do on the fly to a more gloomy kind of thing and came up with a stark, predator-type "I'm watching you" kind of shot

Predator At The Beach by Revup67, on Flickr

Posted this elsewhere but perhaps it needs its own thread

Looking for personal opinion on the adobe lens profiler:

I just downloaded the app, read through the instructions and curious if anyone here has seen "significant results" doing a comparison of a before and after.  When selecting a focal point how does one select which aperture and focal length should be chosen when referring to a zoom if you only want to do the standard 9 shots?

Does this process somewhat overlap what DPP has to offer as it uses a lens profile there as well?

Finally I am thinking of getting Focal Pro and wondering if it makes sense to do those calibrations first then do the Adobe Lens Profiler?

Thanks in advance

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