April 25, 2014, 12:22:05 AM

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Messages - Skirball

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1
Lighting / Re: Lighting and triggering setup
« on: April 23, 2014, 12:25:18 PM »
Given all that info, I seek a unified triggering system that would somewhat be camera independent, device independent and allow for remote power control. Especially if I go with Einsteins and 600 flashes,

If that's all you want why not just get some PW and be done with it.  You can keep using the flashes you're using now and add continuous lighting.  Going the 600 route certainly won't be unifying anything, other than your other 600s.

2
Lighting / Re: ST-E3-RT and 600EX-RT to trigger 580EXii ?
« on: April 23, 2014, 12:19:08 PM »
I don't understand what you mean by optical-pulse set of facilities.  If you have three 622 you wouldn't use Canon's RT at all, you'd just use the Yongnuo.

Exactly my point. The 622's will control the 600EX and the 580EX, no need to use Canon's RT at all. Love the 622s, they're cheap, feature-rich, and work very well. Saves me from having to sell the 580EX-II and buy another 600EX-RT.

And they work with my 430EX and YN565 in TTL, as well as my two YN manual only flashes.  The 600s are great, if you have a whole set of 600s, but there's no flexibility.

3
Lighting / Re: ST-E3-RT and 600EX-RT to trigger 580EXii ?
« on: April 23, 2014, 11:39:26 AM »
I'm planning to do the following: Use three Yongnuo YN-622C wireless controllers. One on the camera, one on my 600EX-RT, and one on my 580EX-II. The YN-622C should support both flashes in E-TTL mode.
Yes, but only when using the optical-pulse set of facilities on an RT-capable body like the 5DIII. The 622C does not talk Canon RT.

I don't understand what you mean by optical-pulse set of facilities.  If you have three 622 you wouldn't use Canon's RT at all, you'd just use the Yongnuo.

And just as a point, I did a 5 flash setup the otherday, but only have four 622s, so I put one 622 on my camera as a master for the other 3, and then put a 602 transmitter on top of that to trigger two 602 receivers.  Bam! Dual masters!

4
I've made them fit the page but have included a magnification in each one where you can see that the very narrow dof has been achieved over the focus point.

Not to be argumentative, but that isn't a particularly narrow dof. How far away is the dog?

Narrow to me means if you hit eyelashes, the retina is OOF.

+1

@ Sporgon, your 'very narrow DoF' looks to be over 2 m deep, distant subjects aren't as taxing for an AF system.

Even as a 6D owner I can laugh at the (unintended) sarcasm of posting pictures of “very narrow DoF” on the order of 2 meters.  See, the 6D can do f/1.6 as well!

5
That ought to give this thread enough fuel for another 10 pages or so.

6
I will be shooting interior and exterior shots with a 70D and 10-22mm lens in a couple of days. I used to shoot real estate photography almost a decade ago - I haven't touched a Canon since. I'm trying to prep myself on the 70D which I just got my hands on literally an hour ago. I have the 10-22mm for real estate shots and the 24-105L for everything else including the video i'll need to be taking.

What is the suggested Program setting (Av, P, M, etc.) to shoot these type of real estate shots? I need a full, sharp photo across the entire image. All shots will be on a tripod with good lighting throughout.

Suggested aperture?
Suggested AF mode? AF area selection mode? Or is it best to manually focus when shooting real estate?

Any other suggestions that will help me produce quality shots?

Thank you in advance for your opinions!

Not much has changed in RE photography since you did it 10 years ago.  The biggest thing that has changed is the industry, there’s a dichotomy between Run n Gun and “architectural photography” that pride themselves on producing quality images.  Both have their niche, but I can’t really speak to the former. 

Shoot in full manual, right down to the AF.  f/8 if you can get away with it, but bump it up if needed to get everything in focus.  Shooting ultrawide it’s usually not too much of an issue.  Some people love HDR, other lighting.  Myself the latter, but I always take a set of HDR for backup/post work.  Don’t do it in-camera.  I’d shoot at ISO 400ish to lessen the load on my flashes except for the HDR shots (ISO 100).  My final image is usually a composite of an HDR (lightly done, in Photomatix – I wouldn’t use in-camera), blended in manually with a properly exposed and lit shot, and I usually do some hand touch-up lightening areas with a high-key shot.  But it’s a time consuming process.  I know people who drop the tripod, in-camera HDR, DL to Lightroom (now on iPad) and they’re off to the next room before I even have my lights setup.  It works for them, just not work I care for.  YMMV.

7
Canon delivered, even better than expected, with the 5DIII – and charged a premium for it.  But they also delivered the 6D, basically a very modest update to the 5DII (already an excellent camera, AF notwithstanding) with a functionally equivalent AF system, but at a lower price.  That's a win-win.

17 pages of nausea later...  that pretty much sums it up.

8
EOS Bodies / Re: New DSLR and PowerShots in May [CR2]
« on: April 02, 2014, 11:37:05 AM »
I really hope that Canon doesn't release another rebel series dslr.. I still see t3i being sold and don't even see the t4i much and even less of the t5i.  the price differences are so minimal now too.  Just stop.  lol  Who wouldn't be happy to see a new rebel like every 1.5-2 yrs?  Maybe it's just me?  anyways, rumors rumors~~

The Rebel updates aren’t for us, they’re for people who don’t have dSLRs, or have an old Rebel that’s been sitting in a drawer since 6 months post purchase and think that buying a new camera will rekindle their ‘love for photography’.  If they keep bringing in fresh meat then they don’t have to worry about attrition loses of cantankerous enthusiasts that sit on a website discussing Canon product.  They pretty much already got us right where they want us.

9
Lighting / Re: Basic home studio setup question
« on: April 01, 2014, 11:53:09 AM »
I have a Rouge FlashBender, I wouldn't recommend the small, get the large. The large has three flexible supports and can be manipulated much better than the small which only has two. Highly recommended.


Do you still use these [in a studio] if you have softboxes and full-sized modifiers?  I’m not sure where I would use them, and if I did, I’d just use a piece of posterboard and a hair tie.  Might be a nice to have, but if you’re trying to build a studio on a budget I’d think that $40 could go to far more useful pieces.

10
Lighting / Re: Basic home studio setup question
« on: April 01, 2014, 11:43:08 AM »
Thanks for all of the advice.  One thing I wanted to be clear on is that I have 2 x 430EX II's and an ST-E2 transmitter...

Even better.  You already have to eTTL flashes, so that gives you some options for either more flexibility, or you could just cut the cost in half.   The ST-E2, well, it makes a nice paper weight.

You could either get a third eTTL-equipped flash, like the Yongnuo YN-565EX (or a third 430exII), and then get the eTTL radio triggers (RF-622), or stick to manual and just use the RF-602s.  Personally I never use eTTL for portraiture, but some people do and like it.  The nice thing about the 622s, is that you can control power from your camera, which is nice for those umbrella softboxes where the flash is inside and hard to adjust.

Since I use manual a lot, I just use my RF-602s.  They have a 1/4" thread on the bottom so they screw right into my stands, no cold shoe needed.   They’re also small, and I find them easy to use. That said, if I had none and was to purchase radio triggers, I’d probably just get more flexible 622.

The ST-E2 only works on line of sight, which can be a problem when using softboxes.  It’s just not worth it given the amount of radio options out these days.


I could drop the price by changing the manfrotto stands, but reviews on amazon are hit and miss on a lot of the cheaper stands. Do your PBL stands hold up pretty well?   

My PBL stands feel quite robust actually, but the action opening and closing them isn't the smoothest.  But to be fair, I mostly use them for a backdrop, which is to say not much, or a third light stand.  I have two Manfrotto Nanos.  I love them, but they’re not as big and sturdy as the ones you listed.  They’re the gold standard for “Strobists” who want easy portable lightstands.  I put softboxes on them and have never worried they were unstable.    I know some people swear by aircushioned; I don't really care one way or the other, I just wanted something small and portable.  If it's just going to stay in your studio, then you might as well get something beefier.  There are plenty of good brands out there, but I've never had a complaint with any of my Manfrotto gear.  I don't remember if I said it in my first post: DO NOT SKIMP ON UMBRELLA HOLDERS.  I've got a couple of plastic paper weights in my drawer, just get the Manfrotto ones and you only have to buy once.


The other big ticket item is the Sunbounce reflector.  It looks portable and easy to use, but I can't say that I have any practical knowledge of reflectors.

Holy crap.  I had to look that one up.  I’ve never heard of that thing, but I don’t see what it does for $200 that would make it remotely worth it.  Get a generic circular 5-in-1 reflector off Amazon for $15.

11
Lighting / Re: Basic home studio setup question
« on: March 31, 2014, 05:37:22 PM »
I should have said, you can do fine portraiture with 2, or even 1 light and a cheap reflectors.  But as you may find...  strobism is an addictive disease.

12
Lighting / Re: Basic home studio setup question
« on: March 31, 2014, 05:35:29 PM »
Great thread. I had a very similar query. From what I have gleaned so far, speedlights should be sufficient to begin with, however they don't provide as much power as the strobes and working them full tilt is probably not a great idea. I was also curious about umbrella (that too, shoot-through vs reflector) vs softbox. Really hoping to get some great information from the experts.


Speedlights are plenty strong enough for studio work, it’s only when going up against the sun that their weaknesses really shine, or don’t as the case may be. 

+1 what PbD said regarding softboxes.  Umbrellas are fine but given that you can get these knockoff softboxes for hardly more than an umbrella it’s almost a no-brainer.  Home studios are usually cramped and spill from an umbrella goes everywhere.  Personally I think the catch lights are leagues better than an umbrella as well.  If you have space to store a fully assembled soft box then I can personally recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ODJ8YC/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If not, any of these type:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0090S8WFS/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 …sets up and tears down almost as fast as a brella.  The down side is that it’s a bit of a hassle to adjust power settings and you have to fudge it to tilt them down.  But it’s still better than an umbrella.  You’ll need an umbrella holder.

If I was on that tight of a budget I’d get:

(3) Yongnuo 560 III – radio receivers built in: ($75x 3 = $225)
(1) Yonguo RF-602 – you need a transmitter and have an extra receiver if you get another flash ($25)
(1) PBL Backdrop support (link) -  you can go cheaper, but these are a good middle ground IMO.  Use them as flash stands for now, but can be used as background support if you upgrade down the road to some sleeker flash stands.  ($80)
(0-2) Manfrotto 026 Umbrella Holder – you’ll need one for umbrella type softboxes (or umbrellas), but not the Photodiox rear mount box I posted above.  ($33 each)
(2) Light modifiers – say one of each of above for variety ($50 + $25 = $75 + 1 umbrella holder at $33)

That puts you at $438 plus tax for a three light setup.  I’d take what I have left over, go to JoAnnes, and grab some cheap fabric for background – if you want.  But you don’t need it.  Yongnuo makes a YN460 that is super basic, doesn’t even zoom.  I got mine for $25.  Find one cheap (or any cheap used light) and you can use that as a background light (no zoom needed), you already have another receiver, and use your third 560 III as a hair light.  Pro portraits in $500.

Backdrop link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ANT1I8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

13
This morning it was raining a ton but I was using a plastic bag to cover my 6D as I shot a quidditch tourney. As time went on, my playback button stopped working...

I suspect evil magic is afoot, and the smart money is that Team Slitherin had something to do with it.

14
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Canon EOS 6D Firmware 1.1.4 Available
« on: March 25, 2014, 12:14:09 PM »
Firmware Version 1.1.4 incorporates the following fixes:
1. Fixes a phenomenon in which some images cannot be transferred to mobile devices running the EOS Remote app.
2. Corrects an error in the German language Feature Guide.
3. Corrects an error in the Korean language Feature Guide.

4. Screws 3rd party batteries (WARNING!)

See user's comments here about "irregular communication with the battery": http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1281456


Good to know, thanks for the update.

Also good to see that threads on the Fred Miranda forum also quickly degrade into tired off-topic discussions on whether Manual mode should allow auto-ISO.


15
Are you sure the manual does not address this?

manual?

I thought this place was the manual?

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