October 25, 2014, 09:25:09 AM

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Messages - Skirball

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1
Lighting / Re: Yongnuo killed my batteries - warranty case?
« on: October 24, 2014, 02:29:37 PM »

FWIW, I leave batteries in RF-602, RF-622 and 560-TX transceivers all the time and never had a problem in any of the 15 or so units I have.  I only take the batteries out of my flashes because I have a bunch and only consistently use 2 or 3 of them.

If you leave batteries in the RF-602 trigger you are bound to have a flat batery when you come to use it if left in a camera bag, it doesn't have an On/Off button!

I cut a toilet paper roll tube in half, put duct tape on one side, and stuffed the other side with some tissue.  The trigger fits in nice and comfy and doesn't touch the test button.  I keep an extra CR2 battery in my bag just in case, but I've been using the tube case for about 3 years now and never had an issue.

2
Lighting / Re: Yongnuo killed my batteries - warranty case?
« on: October 24, 2014, 11:47:23 AM »
Yeah, as a previous poster mention, rechargeable batteries sometimes won't re-charge if they have been fully drained. Also, I have some inexpensive radio triggers and a few 3rd party flashes. In general, for non-name brand electronics, I do not trust the "Off" switch.

Harrrrgnn, well, it's only two batteries and you never stop learning - thanks for the information. I'll adapt my behavior accordingly if I keep buying Chinese junk products, obviously the cheaper electronics do make a difference - I've never experienced with my Canon flashes.

I was going to suggest doing a deep cycle, but it looks like you got it fixed with the paper clip method.

As far as Chinese junk products; I guess everyone has their own opinions.  I've read countless threads of people who can't get their Canon 600ex-RT $600 flash to even work with Eneloops.  So I guess it's a matter of perspective.  Third party electronics are never going to have the kind of QC that name brand electronics charging 4 - 10X as much will, it's simple electronics.  But personally, I'm glad third party options exist to try to help keep the big guys in line.

FWIW, I leave batteries in RF-602, RF-622 and 560-TX transceivers all the time and never had a problem in any of the 15 or so units I have.  I only take the batteries out of my flashes because I have a bunch and only consistently use 2 or 3 of them.

3
Lighting / Re: Is this dangerous when using the 600ex rt´s?
« on: October 20, 2014, 12:45:32 PM »
It's no problem leaving HSS as default.
Your flash works much harder during HSS, and produces less light while doing so.

So there are at least two problems:  1) the increased power consumption will wear down your batteries faster, and 2) the increased power consumption will heat up your flashes faster.



It seemed the core of his question was what happens at 1/250 s (Xsync) and slower, and in that case the flash fires normally even with HSS set.  The flash only fires in HSS if a shutter speed higher than Xsync is selected.  I wouldn't consider increased power consumption a 'problem' although it's good to be aware of it (one should always carry extra batteries if relying on flash).  I don't know that overheating would be an issue, but the 600EX-RT has an overheat warning (the display backlight turns red). 

But it might be worth knowing why the OP wants to use HSS, there may be other solutions.  The flash is much faster than 1/250 s, and can be used to stop action.  Alternatively, if using fill flash with a very wide aperture in daylight, an ND filter can knock down ambient light to Xsync speeds.

I would like the possibility to stop action with HSS, but also to overpower daylight. I have never used ND's for this, but will certainly give it a go. None of my lenses are F1.2 (where I have read about this technique before), but three of them are at 1.4, so I guess the same goes for them.

I don't think you're going to stop motion or overpower daylight in HSS.

A normal flash duration is very fast, and can "stop motion".  But HSS rapidly blinks for the entire duration of of the exposure, so it's not really any different than ambient.  The flash won't stop motion any more than the normal exposure would (when above max sync).

HSS also cuts into your power, considerably.  Flashes have enough trouble overpowering sun at full power; in HSS you're not going to overpower very bright sunlight.  Maybe bare, close to the subject, but you will notice the power reduction.

4
Lighting / Re: Flash equipment for Portraits & Events
« on: October 13, 2014, 03:47:11 PM »
I was thinking about waiting for the Yongnuo 600EX-RT since it is supposed to be released this month.

I would wait at least a few more months so that the reports start coming in on the YN 600.  I noticed you mentioned the word 'reliability' later in this thread.  Just saying...

That said, is there any reason why you feel the need of having a full set of off camera eTTL?  It's fine if that's what you want to shoot, but you should know what you're doing/plan to do before making a purchase that big.  On the flip side you can get a complete portrait setup, with off-camera manual flash, a controller that can adjust power and zoom, stands, modifiers and the whole shebang, for less than a single Canon 600.  Then get a single Canon 430exII (or 580II if you can find it), for on-camera eTTL at events. 

5
Lighting / Re: What 3rd party flash?
« on: October 09, 2014, 06:25:04 PM »
I don't have it here with me, but if I recall it has 4 battery levels on the indicator, I've never seen it lower than 1/2.

That's common when using NiMH batteries with a battery gauge designed for alkaline.  It'll go from full to half almost instantly and then hang out at half right up until it goes dead.  They may have adjusted the gauge to try to account for it, but I've seen similar responses in cheap electronics.  Still...  it'd be nice to have a gauge.

6
EOS Bodies / Re: Poll: Would you buy a high MP Canon EOS 5DIV?
« on: October 08, 2014, 04:15:18 PM »
Either go all the way and give wildlife photographers something they can crop (1DX2), or keep it cheaper with a 6D2.  Buildings and landscape don't need 65 point AF.

7
Post Processing / Re: How to start using Photoshop
« on: October 08, 2014, 03:45:50 PM »
I learned on my own, way back when it was version 3.1.  Played with it for years and years, and got pretty good.  Then I started watching Phlearn and learned far more in a year than I ever had before.  He has an intro series, but I have no idea how it compares to Linda's.  I'm sure either one if fine.  Once you get the basics, make sure to check out Phlearn.  Even the free stuff is awesome, and fun.

8
Lighting / Re: What 3rd party flash?
« on: October 08, 2014, 12:37:49 PM »
For ETTL, I prefer a Canon flash.  For manual, I prefer Yongnuo.

+1

9
Software & Accessories / Re: Storage & backup - advice needed please
« on: October 07, 2014, 01:19:09 PM »
I don't know how much retouch you do, but I suspect that the edited files have a lot to do with your issue.  I'm regularly in the 2 - 4 gB range with my working files, both for retouch and for architectural work.  Files this size eat up space quickly, and there's no way I'm deleting them.  While I think it's a good idea to scour through your folders and delete old stuff and lousy photos you're never going to use anyway, I find that I actually gain very little from it - other than a cleaner file system.  JPGs are nothing - I could spend hours deleting old files and hardly make a noticeable impact.  Even RAW files seem small compared to TIFF/PSD/PSB.  I actually find I free more space going into old layered files and cleaning those up, deleting superfluous layers or masks, merging layers, and whatnot.  I'm now better about doing that during my editing, but I never used to think about it.

As to storage, have you thought about just using external drives?  There's some very reasonably priced options with USB 3.  And the nice thing is you can physically separate it from your other files, for a much more secure backup.

10
Lighting / Re: POLL: What flash modes do you use?
« on: October 07, 2014, 10:45:25 AM »
Canon spent millions perfecting the system, I paid for the convenience. Why use manual if I can use ETTL and not waste time?

Who's wasting time?  For precise lighting I don't think TTL is any faster than manual.  You still have to fine tune your light, what does it matter if I'm nudging up a ratio, or a power level?  So why use a system that isn't necessarily going to be consistent, that uses a pre-flash that might get my subject to blink, that requires a more expensive and complicated RF system...  if there's no benefit.  eTTL is fantastic, when the situation calls for it, but there are plenty of situations where it offers little to no advantage.

11
Lighting / Re: POLL: What flash modes do you use?
« on: October 06, 2014, 03:41:42 PM »
Oops, I only hit manual, meant to do eTTL as well.

Only 6 people voted so far, but already 3 votes for multi?  I'm curious what people are using for other than the occasional creative experimentation?  I think I used it for a couple of photos when I got my 580exII just to play around, and I'm pretty sure I haven't touched it since.

12
Lighting / Re: First Flash
« on: September 30, 2014, 11:15:38 AM »
Another +1 for the 430exII.  A single 600 is going to do little for you over the 430, and doesn't justify the cost difference, IMHO.  As far as 3rd party options:  I own a lot of Yongnuo flash equipment, are recommend them readily, but everyone should own at least 1 eTTL flash, and for eTTL get a Canon.  If, down the road, you want to get into manual lighting or expand your TTL setup, then look into 3rd party options.


13
Lighting / Re: Studio lighting advice for a newbie
« on: September 18, 2014, 01:14:10 PM »
will toss in my 2c -

went through an exhaustive study of which gear to acquire for hobbyist lighting for the last month or so, and ended up with 4 options:
1. follow strobist guide with a pair of lp180's + PW's and various shoe-mount speed rings, etc.
2. get a pair of 600-ex-rt's with trigger and various shoe-mount speed-rings (i.e. chimera ob2 kit or profoto 3' octa)
3. go straight to big lights with paul buff einsteins and that accessory system (including battery option)
4. go with bowens gemini 500's and their mod system (including battery option)

Sounds like you already made your decision, but just in-case others stumble upon this while doing their research:  The Strobist guide is outdated and a bit biased, as far as the Lumopro flashes.  If you're going for a manual only, third party flash it's a hard argument against the Yonguo 560 III.  Now with the 560-TX you can control power and zoom from your flash, all for $50 plus $70 per flash.  There's little point in getting PW is you're using manual only, other than wanting to stay away from third party venders.  You can get a basic 2 light light setup with built in RF receivers, and a trigger that can control power and zoom, for $200.

14
Post Processing / Re: export settings for 20x30
« on: September 17, 2014, 11:33:30 AM »
what lightroom export settings should be used to send a jpeg file to yorkphoto for a 20x30 enlargement?  I did a search and got so many diff answers , is resizing critical or should I not do that?

20 x 30 inches?  Upload the full sized jpg.  Better yet, send them a TIFF if you can.

I've never worked with Yorkphoto, so I don't know how they operate.  But any reliable company making enlargements with that should know what to do with your file regardless of how you set your dpi.  Give them the full sized image, it'll be XXXX pixels by YYYY pixels.  Resolution shouldn't matter, if they know what they're doing, but you can select 300 to be safe. 

Select your photo, go to Export, choose location, JPG (don't resize, but set resolution if you want), and I'd leave all the sharpening and post processing alone.  That should be all it takes.  Your image technically isn't a 20 x 30 at that point, but the print house should do that.  There's no point in artificially enlarging it yourself.

15
Lighting / Re: Looking for recommendation on light kit
« on: September 17, 2014, 11:23:53 AM »
If you want a beginner lighting kit get a couple Yongnuo 560 III (make sure to get the III) at $70 each, and a YN 560-TX transmitter ($50).  If you want to save $30 you can get the RF-602 or RF-603 transmitter, but the one I mentioned is worth it.  It's not going to get much cheaper than that, and yet it has features that systems three times as much don't have.  You'll eventually need stands and modifiers but you can start with the little plastic feet that come with the flash and sheets of white posterboard.

Once you start really looking critically at glass photography you'll notice that you don't eliminate reflection, you just control it.  Without reflections you wouldn't see anything, unless it's colored.  Even then, well placed reflections add dimension to the photos.   Once you get more advanced you'll probably find out that for truly clean images good lighting is only half of it, the other half is done in Photoshop.

Get a basic lighting kit, go over to Strobist and start learning:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

And then grab your glasses and practice some basic rim lighting, like most all of us did when we were learning flash.  It's like drawing an orange in art class, everyone starts with the basics.


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