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Messages - Skirball

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121
Lenses / Re: Ken Rockwell on Lens Sharpness
« on: September 25, 2013, 06:25:11 PM »
Watching everyone get their panties in a bunch over a KR discussion has to be one of the most entertaining staples of photography forums.

122
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: Is it flare, internal reflections or a ghost
« on: September 23, 2013, 07:03:24 PM »
I'm putting my money on it being ghosts.  Your best bet is to return the lens, or buy a shirt that says "My camera sees dead people".

123
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 23, 2013, 11:46:13 AM »
I then went ahead and tried to (while Ettl was active) shoot at f/1.8 and it was still OVER POWERING with light.  So stopped the shutter down to f/5.6 (so basically 10X less light was going through to the sensor).  And that's fine, but again... I like the shallow depth of field.  I like the Yongnuo's... but not if they aren't going to work right.  So I am going to see if I can get an exchange and hope the next set works better. 

Seriously... am I expecting something out of the ordinary for ETTL menu to be functional immediately after turning the devices on?  It seems like an ordinary expectation.

Like PbD Like PbD said, it sounds like you're overpowering the exposure.    I’m kind of surprised, unless you’re shooting the strobe bare.  I don’t think I’ve ever bottomed out a flash when using modifiers.   Are you using a modifier?  ISO 100?

But reducing the amount of light isn’t really an issue (usually it’s the opposite), especially if you want soft light.  Just put another modifier in-between the flash and your main.  It can be anything: a translucent piece of plastic (like from a milk jug), a tissue (don’t drape it on the flash – FIRE), a piece of tracing paper, etc.  If you want hard light then just pick up a sample set of Rosco gels and use the ND filters – or buy a sheet of it.   Or move the light further away, or bounce it, etc.  You should have plenty of options no matter what look you’re going for.

124
Lenses / Re: Canon 16-35 II f/2.8L AND/OR Canon 14mm II f/2.8
« on: September 20, 2013, 12:34:56 PM »
I'm a mechanical engineer so I probably understand optics better than most. 


Heh.  These kind of statements always crack me up.


125
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: RAW or JPEG
« on: September 20, 2013, 11:06:55 AM »
Surely you see the irony of resurrecting a dying thread to tell us that this thread should die off?

126
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 20, 2013, 11:04:50 AM »
It actually sounds like my 622c might be miscommunicating with the 580 and rather than communicating via ETTL, it is simply telling the 580 to flash at full.  Which is why I was going to the high speed sync.  Hmm.  Come to think of it, I wasn't able to access the on camera flash control when I was having these over exposure issues.  So maybe I go back to the drawing board and see if I can get the right setting so I CAN shoot at 1/200th of a second and then maybe I will go ahead and get a reflector to soften some of the shadows.   Ugh.  I'm a straight A student that is getting a C in this course on flash... it is frustrating.

What shooting mode (camera) were you using? 

The flash firing at full power shouldn't send you into high speed sync; and if you were manually bumping up the shutter speed because the flash was too powerful then remember that shutter speed doesn't really have any affect on flash below sync speed.  Regardless of what the issue is, you should have to be dealing with HSS in the situation you describe.

My 622 did the same thing when I first pulled it out of the box.  I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, but I played with it for awhile until I got it to fire properly with eTTL.  I'm not too good with the 622 as I usually just use my manual 602s.  Which, I highly recommend that you switch over to full manual, camera and flash, for these photos.  Your infant is the perfect test subject for that.  If you only have one flash then you can start with ambient and mix in your flash.  Or pick up a cheap second flash and start playing around with studio lighting.  Seriously, and infant child is about as good a test subject as you're going to get (other than yourself), so long as the flashes doesn't disturb him/her.  Just make sure to use modifiers, no bare flash.

127
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 05:20:28 PM »
for reference,  most of these are night shots indoors.  I  work traditional hours and with the son going down earlier and earlier,  flash is a necessity.   bouncing it off the walls works,  but I'd like to be able to do if camera effectively.   it seems like one off those things that should simply come naturally.

Then just get the cheap manual flash, you don't need HSS.

128
EOS Bodies - For Stills / Re: aperture!
« on: September 19, 2013, 05:18:54 PM »
If you want the maximus possible sharpness in your composition use the list in the following page so that you do not suffer from the negatives of the defraction limited aperture (last column)

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Field-of-View-Crop-Factor.aspx


While it’s helpful to know your cameras DLA, that only tells you when diffraction starts becoming a factor, for your camera.  The lens that you use will have a sweet spot as well.  And DLA only applies to images in the focal plane, so therefore if a subject in your image is outside the focal plane, and outside the DoF, you have to choose if you deal with a bit of diffraction in order to get that subject within your DoF.  In other words, it depends.

129
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 04:30:02 PM »
Window light/ambient with or without reflectors is the easiest and cheapest way to lower contrast.

+1, but you need a ff camera for that because indoors with ambient from a window you're reaching iso 1600-3200 in no time with sufficient dof & fast x-sync for portrait - I just tried that with the 60d, nice shots, but horrible noise that drowned a lot of details. Actually, that was the last drop in the bucket for me to order the 6d :-p

He said he was having the opposite problem, too much light.  If you’re using HSS because you can’t stay below your max sync speed and shooting at ISO 1600, you’re doing it wrong.

130
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 01:29:50 PM »
You mention you didn't like the shadows. Did you play around with the light moving it closer so the light would wrap around Your daughter to get rid of unwanted shadows?

I would also try a reflector before jumping in to get another light. You can pickup a cheap 42" 5 in one for about 18 bucks at amazon.

I have such a limited amount of time to play with light source distances.   two hours seems like a ton of time,  but not really....

If two hours seems like a ton of time then getting more lights is not the answer.

131
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 12:44:36 PM »
I don't understand where the ND filter comes in.

He wants to shoot his 85/1.8 wide open.  To keep the shutter speed below xsync, in many situations, he'd need an ND filter to achieve this.

 that's exactly it...  so the  sync  speed for the mkiii  is 1/200  of a second... I  was  shooting at 1/2500  the other day,  so I think I would need a 16x nd  filter..  or  somewhere close to get  to 1/200. 

 so maybe I just buy a 430 ii.   Damn it.

Ok.  You mentioned umbrellas, infants and sidelighting with a strobe and a modifier...  I assumed you were in an indoors studio situation.

 it is the living room,  but the wife reneged  on her agreement,  so now it is called the billiard room out of spite.

I feel your pain.  I just moved all my camera equipment out of my ‘studio’ to put a crib in it.

So you’re shooting indoors and still pulling 1/2500?  If you have (presumably sun) light that bright in your “studio” then why aren’t you using your 580 for fill light?

132
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 12:33:43 PM »
for the record, I hate typing on my phone.   it is amazing y'all could make sense of the gibberish.

It's not easy.

133
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 12:32:16 PM »
I don't understand where the ND filter comes in.

He wants to shoot his 85/1.8 wide open.  To keep the shutter speed below xsync, in many situations, he'd need an ND filter to achieve this.

 that's exactly it...  so the  sync  speed for the mkiii  is 1/200  of a second... I  was  shooting at 1/2500  the other day,  so I think I would need a 16x nd  filter..  or  somewhere close to get  to 1/200. 

 so maybe I just buy a 430 ii.   Damn it.

Ok.  You mentioned umbrellas, infants and sidelighting with a strobe and a modifier...  I assumed you were in an indoors studio situation.

134
Lenses / Re: the future of 1.2 L lenses ?
« on: September 19, 2013, 12:28:27 PM »

I was comparing two contemporary cameras, the 5DIII and 6D, not a 5-year old camera that has been replaced.  But yes, the 6D is a fantastic camera, for it's price.   My Subaru is a fantastic car for its price, as well. It can go through over a foot of snow on the driveway, with drifts as high as the hood of the car, if I need to get out before the plow service comes. It even has heated seats to keep my butt warm.  But a well-equipped Volvo (5DIII) would be better, and a well equipped Mercedes (1D X) would be better still.  The point is, while the Subaru meets my needs as a car, the 6D does not meet my needs as a camera.


Glad we can agree on something!  It's amusing you compare the 5D3 to a Volvo, thanks for that!

To each their own.  If my needs are for a rally car, I'll take the Suby over the Volvo or Merc any day of the week.

135
Lighting / Re: Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...
« on: September 19, 2013, 11:12:12 AM »
I don't understand where the ND filter comes in.

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