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Topics - Quasimodo

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Software & Accessories / Long exposure photography
« on: November 25, 2013, 01:52:13 PM »
I am just getting ready to start my journey into long exposure photography.

Having just dabbled in long exposures with some screw on filters (NDs, and some vari-NDs), I am now taking the leap with the Lee system. From my wife I am getting the Lee starter kit (with a .6 hard grad ND, and a .6 ND, the filter holder) plus a couple of rings (77 wide, and 82 wide), and from my two kids I am getting the Big Stopper; all bought by me :)

I have some questions for those of you who have experience and time to answer it.

1. Is the Cokin Z-system (filter rings and filters) compatible with the Lee 100mm system? (same thickness of glass?)
2. How do you calculate the exposure time? I have looked at several videos and posts concering this. They mention reading the exposure at a certain F-stop, then adding time based on your ND stops. Some further argues that ISO, and exposure compensation can be used to extend the time.  All this seem correct, but incomplete.. Given that you shoot on the lowest ISO possible, then use EC (to say -3), F 22. Would you not be able to reduce it even more by switching to a lens that have F32 (like the 70-200 II), then add a 2xIII TC, thus getting a F 64, hence buying more time (here diffraction might play a devestating role?).

Not sure if my questions are coherent, or that I might have misunderstood..

Any input would be much appreciated, and if you even want to illustrate it by adding a picture that would be great.

In advance, thank you,


Lighting / Tronix Explorer XTSE - any experiences
« on: May 30, 2013, 02:28:17 AM »
After a bit of thought I ended up with a pair of Elinchrom BXri 500 (instead of the older Bowens 500 and 250ws that I posted about a couple of weeks ago). I am starting to inform myself about possibilities of on-location opportunities, thus battery packs. I have found one that looks promising - Tronix Explorer XTSE. It is relatively inexpensive and seems on spec like a good option for me (it says it can shoot the two strobes at full power for about 500-550 pictures if you do not use the modelling light, and that will be good enough for my use).

Has anyone used them and can you share your experiences?


Lenses / Pinhole Photography
« on: May 23, 2013, 03:27:36 AM »
I put this under lenses talk (proper, i don't know...?).

I would love for this thread to be a place where people can share their tips, experiences and questions about pinhole photography.

I have a few questions: I have seen several wesites that sell pre-drilled Canon caps for pinhole photography.

-Has anyone used them, and is it safe to use (I wonder if it is asking for trouble with dust on the sensor..)? If you have, what settings did you use to get the best results.

Feel free to post pictures you have taken with the pinhole technique.

Kind regards,


It comes with umbrellas and softboxes.. I have never used Bowens. They are in mint condition.

Do you think I should go for it?

Thank you for your time,


EOS Bodies - For Stills / Obama using Canon!
« on: March 01, 2013, 11:38:35 AM »
Not sure if you have seen this? :)

Which lens is this? A 35 1.4L?

Lenses / Photozone has released their review of the Sigma 35 1.4...
« on: February 18, 2013, 03:45:32 PM »

EOS Bodies - For Stills / Panic button - 1Dx
« on: February 10, 2013, 02:29:48 PM »
While I was taking a walk the other day I met a guy with two 1Dx, lenses and wireless transfer thing. I stopped and chatted with him and learned that he works for one of these news agencies. After talking for a while he mentions that he has programmed a panic button on his 1Dx, a button that is preset with aperture 8 (I think), ISO 6400, and shutter speed of 1/500?..  Not sure if I recall the settings correctly, but he told me that rather being stuck/or forgetting that he was in a meny, when he HAD to get the shot, he could just push this button and be certain to get the shot. I also believe that it was programmed for 12 frames per second.

A smart idea in my opinion.

Anyone heard about this kind of programming?

Lenses / Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:14:56 AM »
As a gift from some of my friends for my 40th birthday last year, I have gotten a stay at Dalen Vilmarkssenter in Norway ( where I am staying a night in February (we leave early in the morning with a snow mobile before daylight, settle in the hut with precut holes for lenses) hopefully get to take pictures of eagles, and then return after daylight.

I have gotten word that I will be able to borrow two bodies (1Dx and 1D iv, and a 400 F2.8L II) and I am thinking to bring my own 70-200 2.8L II, and a 2xIII TC.

Thus a question arises...

Are there other lenses you would bring to be safe? In addition, what aperture would you choose as a rule of thumb? I am thinking F 5.6 or 8 (to include the environment), and maybe 2.8 for portraits (where the background is not important)?


I have a set up in an improvised studio at work where I tried to blow out the background with a 600 and a 580, and using my other 580 as main light on the right side, and my 430 as the fill light. The main light and fill works great, but I have seen that the blow-out-the-background light works only so and so (they are both on full blast (+3). The problem is that they give only a semiblasted background, and the recharge time is slow, thus making me loose several shots. I have now borrowed a couple of Elinchrom sets at 200 watts per lamp, hence my intitial question at how does they translate from what I own myself?

Second, When testing the set up today I saw that it was way too bright/stronger than what I am used to with my canon speedlights.. but I think that I can reduce the power by changing aperture (I was shooting at ISO 165, Aperture 5,6, and 1/250 and this worked great for the sidelight and fill). I am thinking maybe in the vicinity of f11 now to get it equal?

Thank you,


Maybe my question is not coherent here, but my problem is that I have never shot with strobes before, and I am used to my canon speedlights and their power..

Lenses / How tough is the glass of a lens? (8-15)
« on: December 30, 2012, 07:20:25 PM »
I have this shot planned where I place my camera with my 8-15L on a Manfrotto table tripod with a phottix aion remote release on the ground to capture a squirrel and some birds up close at 14mm (we have a place where we put food, and they eat there everyday). Would they be able to scratch the front element and destroy it?

Lenses / 8-15L cut it yourself gelatin
« on: December 20, 2012, 04:27:27 PM »
I think I am buying this lens tomorrow. I have borrowed it several times and like it a lot. In TDP review he talks about gelatine filters you can cut yourself and place in the rear end. Does anyone have any experience with this, and what would you reccomend?


Lighting / Joe McNally's Eulogy of Ken Regan
« on: December 04, 2012, 02:38:50 AM »

Lenses / Canon 800mm F5.6L IS USM experiment
« on: October 13, 2012, 04:03:55 PM »
I am lucky enough to borrow the 800mm this weekend. I wanted to see how far it reaches, and also how far it reaches with help. The series are from 16mm to 2560 in effective focal lenght. The last picture is cropped a 100%. The distance from where I was standing and the building over the Oslofjord is approximately 9 kilometres.


Third Party Manufacturers / Why Hasselblad?
« on: September 19, 2012, 03:28:18 PM »
Disclaimer: This is not a thread meant to trash other manufacturers, nor do I hope that the thread develops in that direction. It is a question I pose out of genuine interest in the logic and motivation for buying into these medium format systems.

My main question is: Why would people buy a digital Hasselblad? In what situations would you need what a Hasselblad can deliver? Are there work situations where a Hasselblad or other medium format systems are required? (for instance do high end magazines require images captured with these systems?).  Is the cost of a Hasselblad justified in terms of qualityrequirements anywhere? In Norway a Hasselbad H5D - 60 cost 312.031 NOK (41.988 Euro,, while a 1DX cost 54.995 NOK (7.400 Euro,,1Mp,-12b-s,-Full-HD-127617-p0000148151.aspx) and a 5D III cost 24.499 for the body (3.297 Euro,,-fullformat,-6-b-sek,-DIGIC-5-pros-129195-p0000151276.aspx)

Background for my questions:

I have myself most of my gear in Canon. I am, apart from approximately 10 paid jobs pr. year, foremost an enthusiast. My bread and butter comes from my job as a lecturer in Marketing and marketing communication- related courses. I have in several of my lectures used quite a bit of time on the DSLR and compact camera market. Hence, both professionally and from a hobby point of view, I am very interested in hearing your answers to my questions.

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