I'd only recommend DxO if you shoot a lot of UWA shots that you don't wat to look like UWA shots, otherwise everybody else is pretty much as good for regular perspective and distortion corrections.
With emphasis on the results and with practice that might be true, but at least as LR/ACR is concerned (I don't know about PS) DxO has a very nice and quick visual user interface which makes the correction a breeze.
In LR you can either have Adobe's upright have a go and if this fails have to tune the sliders for ages until you get what you want... at least I'm still struggling to do proper corrections that aren't minor, somehow it always ends up looking a tad wrong unlike with DxO. Having said that, spending the €€€ on DxO might not be necessary if already owning LR, gift horse and so on.
I much prefer PS, over the Lightroom and ACR adjustments particularly now they have the three auto options, they are trying to be too clever, and, as you say, if you go into manual they can take forever to fiddle this way and that. The actual lens corrections, the profiled auto settings for lens induced distortions, CA, and vignetting are very very good in LR/ACR.
As for perspective "corrections"/adjustments, I find PS to be very simple, but you do need to understand what you want the image to look like and which direction to move it in to get it there, a couple of keyboard shortcuts don't hurt either. Rather than try to explain the way I do it, I thought a video would better illustrate the method, so I made one, here, forgive the questionable production quality, I only ever did one of these before.
I am very impressed that you went and made a video to share on how to perform this operation in PS! This is such an act that makes this a great community. As for the actual distortion correction, I used to make them in Photoshop Elements and I loved that function. However, once my job installed the full PS version, I was not able to keep it, hence I learned to do the transform in PS.
PS. I would not mind if you had some time one day to make a video (in the other thread on group portraits (where you commented on my picture)) on an easy way to whithen out parts of the backdrop that was not strongly enough lit, hence you still see the structure of the backdrop. Up until now I have used the Clone Stamp tool, but it is tedious and easy to miss out on. Also another turorial if you have any good tip...? I have seen the professional graphic designers at work remake a white background to whatever color they want, without altering the subject/person in front..