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Messages - Quasimodo

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406
Lenses / Re: Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 26, 2013, 07:54:50 AM »
Thank you :) The 1Dx is not mine,.... yet.. (only tried it with the 24-70 II and 70-200 II) back in june last year, so my experience with it is limited, and the 1D IV I have never tried, so i guess that the whole weekend will go to getting it in my hands and programming the short cuts. According to the digital picture, the 400 2.8L IS II is not bad with the 2xIII TC as far as IQ and AF is concerned.

I am thrilled about this, and I hope the eagles are there. The guy who runs this places food there for the wild animals, and he has seen them there every day he has been there this winter.

I am thinking that if the time is there, and I have secured some shots that I like, I would like to try the multiple exposure shot feature on the 1Dx, ... Could be cool :)

407
Lenses / Re: Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 26, 2013, 03:25:48 AM »
Upon reading FredMiramda on AF settings for the 1Dx it seems to me that case 4 is the best, coupled with a pre-set dedicated button to switch to case six? Also, is there a good place where I can read about the practical differences of tracking sensitivity!

In addition I have never tried the 1D iv, and wondered about a good introduction/explanation of its AF system?

Thanks,

G

408
Lenses / Re: Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 09:08:48 AM »
Eagles are big, and if you're close in the blind you may find that the DoF at 400mm f/2.8 or 560mm f/4 is actually too shallow.  There's no issue with diffraction on the 1D X up to f/11, I'd try the f/5.6 - f/8 range.

Thank you Neuro for your continious help and advice. I will stick to your advice. However if I feel that I have secured some good and sharp shots I will try to test different things out :)

409
Lenses / Re: Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 09:06:59 AM »
Also forgot the aperture advice.  Avoid shooting wide open when possible.  The 400 II may work ok at 2.8 but usually a click or two down helps the sharpness quite a bit.  I would avoid f8 or higher due to diffraction.  Also try to keep your shutter speed at 1/1000 or faster for flight shots.  I actually try for 1/2000 or faster.  ISO noise is generally not a problem on the 1dx up to iso 3200 so would definately use that for flight shots and the 1d IV for statics where you can keep the ISO down to under 800.

Thank you for good tips, on both aperture/shutter/iso, and also for the considerations on teleconverters and lenses. I have to see what I can borrow, but when it comes to these really expensive lenses like the 400 I have to ask a good while in advance :) I do not have the 1.4 TC, but a friend of mine have it and I can certainly borrow it from him.

I am very thrilled about this and have been waiting for the season since I got the gift in May last year :)

I have actually not seen the interior of the hut, so I am not sure about the use of tri or monopod options, with or without a Gimbal... I better send them a mail.

410
Black & White / Re: Black & White
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:17:11 AM »
40D 70-200 f4 IS

What a beautiful picture! I love the sepiaish tone, the pose, the eyes and the subject-background.

411
Lenses / Advice for shooting pictures of eagles
« on: January 24, 2013, 07:14:56 AM »
As a gift from some of my friends for my 40th birthday last year, I have gotten a stay at Dalen Vilmarkssenter in Norway (http://www.dalenvillmarkssenter.no/) where I am staying a night in February (we leave early in the morning with a snow mobile before daylight, settle in the hut with precut holes for lenses) hopefully get to take pictures of eagles, and then return after daylight.

I have gotten word that I will be able to borrow two bodies (1Dx and 1D iv, and a 400 F2.8L II) and I am thinking to bring my own 70-200 2.8L II, and a 2xIII TC.

Thus a question arises...

Are there other lenses you would bring to be safe? In addition, what aperture would you choose as a rule of thumb? I am thinking F 5.6 or 8 (to include the environment), and maybe 2.8 for portraits (where the background is not important)?

G.

412
needless to say, this is straight out of the camera, and no pp (except for cropping).

413
Sorry, a bit fast there. But notice the colorcast (greenish on her chin).  Here is the canon shot.

414
to blow out the background you need your background lights to be at least 2 stops over your key light
so you might be best off using your elinchroms to blow the background and the speedlights as the main lights

but you dont want your back lights too much over the top otherwise you will start getting light wrap which can look bad so basically you want some control. A light meter is an easy way to tweak all this when you are starting out but after not a very long period of time you just know what setting will get you in the ballpark and then its just fine tuning tweaks.

read this in detail and all will become clear
http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/


Thank you very much!

How do I shoot off the elinchrom AND the speedlights at the same time? I have an ST-E2 that I have used on my four speedlights (600 RT EX, 2x 580 EX II, and a 430 EX II). Now with the Elinchrom I have another remote control on top of camera to trigger the strobes. Can I use that to set off my flashes, or can I use the ST-E2, or the 600 RT EX (without actually shooting light from this) as a remote for both the elinchrom strobes and my non-radio canon speedlights? I am guessing that ST-E2 on top of my camera, and the remote trigger for the elinchrom in my hand shooting off the same time is too hard?

the easiest way is to fire the speedlights with your st-e2 and enable the optical slave on the elinchrom units
check the manual for the heads you have but it should be the button with a picture of an eye then the elinchroms will detect the speedlights firing and fire themselves when they see the flash

forget the elinchrom trigger here unless you also have the expensive elinchrom recievers which can be plugged into your speedlights


Thanks Will T :)

Wickidwombat.. I will go straight to the studio to check it out now. Thanks a lot for your advice :) I will report if I manage this :)


If you use the ST-E2 to fire your lights, you will find your studio heads won't be lighting your shot. The ST-E2 fires a E-TTL pre-flash and the studio lights will fire on that. Its a funny thing, you see them fire but they fire early and don't recharge fast enough to fire on the actually trigger light.

The only way to disable this is to put a piece of gaffer (or other) tape over the four smaller pin connectors on the hot shoe. Make sure not to cover the large one in the center.

There is a caveat to this, the ST-E2 will go to sleep after a few minutes and can't be woken by the camera since the pins responsible for non-firing communication are not connected. So if you don't shoot for a couple minutes you will have to switch the ST-E2 off and back on again.


Interesting! I just tried it, and it got way too dark, and what you mention might be the reason..

I was forced to go back to the four elinchrom strobes, and finally after putting the aperture to F16 I was able to both get the background well lit, and the subject ok (I am not Joe McNally, lol). However I am forced to use medium to wide angle since the studio is so small in depth, and I encountered a strange thing with my Sigma 35mm 1.4. A greenish colorcast in the middle of the frame. I tried to take of the filter to see if it helped, but it did not. I shot with my Canon 50mm 1.4, and it did not have a cast. I have shot many times with my Sigma with or without the speedlights, and it has worked fine. Worth to mention is that my camerabag was in my car for half an hour while dropping of the kids in kindergarten and driving to work, and it is a freezing minus 15 degrees celsius outside... Can that be it? I am enclosing two pictures of a coworker of mine that volunteered to model while I put up the lights..

The feedback of all of you is much appreciated!

G.

415
to blow out the background you need your background lights to be at least 2 stops over your key light
so you might be best off using your elinchroms to blow the background and the speedlights as the main lights

but you dont want your back lights too much over the top otherwise you will start getting light wrap which can look bad so basically you want some control. A light meter is an easy way to tweak all this when you are starting out but after not a very long period of time you just know what setting will get you in the ballpark and then its just fine tuning tweaks.

read this in detail and all will become clear
http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/


Thank you very much!

How do I shoot off the elinchrom AND the speedlights at the same time? I have an ST-E2 that I have used on my four speedlights (600 RT EX, 2x 580 EX II, and a 430 EX II). Now with the Elinchrom I have another remote control on top of camera to trigger the strobes. Can I use that to set off my flashes, or can I use the ST-E2, or the 600 RT EX (without actually shooting light from this) as a remote for both the elinchrom strobes and my non-radio canon speedlights? I am guessing that ST-E2 on top of my camera, and the remote trigger for the elinchrom in my hand shooting off the same time is too hard?

the easiest way is to fire the speedlights with your st-e2 and enable the optical slave on the elinchrom units
check the manual for the heads you have but it should be the button with a picture of an eye then the elinchroms will detect the speedlights firing and fire themselves when they see the flash

forget the elinchrom trigger here unless you also have the expensive elinchrom recievers which can be plugged into your speedlights


Thanks Will T :)

Wickidwombat.. I will go straight to the studio to check it out now. Thanks a lot for your advice :) I will report if I manage this :)

416
to blow out the background you need your background lights to be at least 2 stops over your key light
so you might be best off using your elinchroms to blow the background and the speedlights as the main lights

but you dont want your back lights too much over the top otherwise you will start getting light wrap which can look bad so basically you want some control. A light meter is an easy way to tweak all this when you are starting out but after not a very long period of time you just know what setting will get you in the ballpark and then its just fine tuning tweaks.

read this in detail and all will become clear
http://www.zarias.com/white-seamless-tutorial-part-1-gear-space/


Thank you very much!

How do I shoot off the elinchrom AND the speedlights at the same time? I have an ST-E2 that I have used on my four speedlights (600 RT EX, 2x 580 EX II, and a 430 EX II). Now with the Elinchrom I have another remote control on top of camera to trigger the strobes. Can I use that to set off my flashes, or can I use the ST-E2, or the 600 RT EX (without actually shooting light from this) as a remote for both the elinchrom strobes and my non-radio canon speedlights? I am guessing that ST-E2 on top of my camera, and the remote trigger for the elinchrom in my hand shooting off the same time is too hard?

417
The short answer is that they don't translate.  Guide number factors in distance and is affected by the zoom head on the flash (i.e. the 580 and 600 flashes have the same light output, but the GN of the 600 is rated higher because the head zooms to 200mm, while the 580's zoom only to 105mm.  Watt-seconds ignores distance, and furthermore, the actual useful output of a monolight is determined by modifiers (e.g. the angular coverage of the reflector).

But, for comparison purposes, most estimates put the output of a 580EX II as equivalent to about 60-80 watt-seconds.

Thank you Neuro. I shall never be easy should it...?:)

So basically, I am now with at least four times the strenght. They have a range of F stops from 1-5, so I will just try to put it as as little as possible and hope for the best :) My back is killing me for carrying all the equipment back and forth (having no place to lock them in at work), so it would be great to be able not to carry the speedlights (the elinchrom is my workplace' property, thus stationary).

418
I have a set up in an improvised studio at work where I tried to blow out the background with a 600 and a 580, and using my other 580 as main light on the right side, and my 430 as the fill light. The main light and fill works great, but I have seen that the blow-out-the-background light works only so and so (they are both on full blast (+3). The problem is that they give only a semiblasted background, and the recharge time is slow, thus making me loose several shots. I have now borrowed a couple of Elinchrom sets at 200 watts per lamp, hence my intitial question at how does they translate from what I own myself?

Second, When testing the set up today I saw that it was way too bright/stronger than what I am used to with my canon speedlights.. but I think that I can reduce the power by changing aperture (I was shooting at ISO 165, Aperture 5,6, and 1/250 and this worked great for the sidelight and fill). I am thinking maybe in the vicinity of f11 now to get it equal?

Thank you,

G.

Maybe my question is not coherent here, but my problem is that I have never shot with strobes before, and I am used to my canon speedlights and their power..

419
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2013, 03:48:43 PM »
The totally white shots reminded me of why I left Minnesota for California.

LOL, I have been in Minnesota several times, and it feels colder than Norway due to the lack of moutains :)

Those last two were my bad because I think they were shot with a Nikon.  But this one was shot on the 19th with the Canon 5D3 and the great 70-300L.  I love that lens (@150.  Same location as first shot.

I actually like this shot much better, and not because the previous were shot with a Nikon, lol. I could care less. However, I like the overall composition on this one. I have actually never tried the 70-300L, but I hear great things about it. I think it is because I never really thought of it as an option since I have the 70-200L II and a 2x III TC, which I think (?) gives me at least equal quality and a 100mm more in focal lenght with a AF speed that is not really slow at all :)

These days I am having a great time with a lens I am borrowing for an undefined timespan, the 200 F2L and it is great, although quite heavy, bulky and a AF sound that you notice. There is a something je ne sais qua about it.

I agree that you made a great choice moving south, although the twin cities are beautiful, and I still regret that I did not bring a camera last time I visited the St. Paul Cathedral.

420
Landscape / Re: Post Your Best Landscapes
« on: January 21, 2013, 01:30:35 PM »
The totally white shots reminded me of why I left Minnesota for California.

LOL, I have been in Minnesota several times, and it feels colder than Norway due to the lack of moutains :)

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